• 


The  Superior  Library 

"In  Camp  on  White 
Bear  Island" 

Conflict  with  Indians 

Singular  Adventures  of  the  Captains  Lewis 

and  Clarke  and 

Command  of  the  U.  S.  Soldiers  in 
the  vast  unexplored  West 


By 

PAUL   ALLEN 


THE    SUPERIOR    PRINTING    COMPANY 
AKRON,    OHIO 


COPYRIGHT  1910 

BY 
THE  WERNER  COMPANY 


COPYRIGHT  1915 

BY 

THE  SUPERIOR  PRINTING  COMPANY 
AKRON,  OHIO 


/    ^t    "~ 
CAMPION  ACCESS^* 


•XKCflOFT  UBRAHY 


PREFACE 

THE  History  of  the  Expedition  of  Captains  Lewis 
and  Clarke,  during  the  years  1804,  1805,  and  1806,  by 
order  of  the  Government  of  the  United  States,  is  the 
first  narrative  which  diffused  widely  at  that  time  a 
knowledge  of  the  so-called  Oregon  Territory,  and  the 
intermediate  country  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  It  presents  a  description  of  a  new  and 
magnificent  region,  unvisited  before  by  white  men, 
with  its  barbarous  tribes,  their  character  and  habits, 
and  abounding  in  herds  of  buffalo,  deer,  and  ante- 
lope, outnumbering  the  human  tenants  of  the  land. 
The  Exposition  held  at  Portland,  Oregon,  during  the 
year  of  1905,  in  commemoration  of  the  great  achieve- 
ments attained  by  the  Lewis  and  Clarke  Expedition 
did  surely  lend  a  renewed  interest  to  their  Journal.  The 
work  being  now  nearly  out  of  print,  it  seemed  to  the 
publishers  a  suitable  time  to  put  forth  a  new  edition  of 
the  Journal  of  Lewis  and  Clarke,  pruned  of  unimpor 
tant  details,  with  a  sketch  of  the  progress  of  maritime 
discovery  en  the  Pacific  coast,  and  a  summary  account 
of  earlier  attempts  to  penetrate  this  vast  western 
wilderness. 

This  Journal  must  ever  retain  a  high  degree  of 
interest,  as  the  account  of  the  first  voyage  made  by 
Indian  or  white  man,  in  boats  or  canoes,  stemming  the 
current  and  rapids  of  the  Missouri  by  the  aid  of  sails, 
oars,  pole  and  towline,  from  the  point  where  its 

A 


PREFACE 

waters  discharge  themselves  into  the  Mississippi  t<? 
its  sources  in  the  Rocky  Mountains.  They  and  their 
party  were  also  the  first  white  men  who,  after  crossing 
the  mountains,  discovered  the  head-waters  of  the 
Columbia  River,  and  where  borne  by  its  rapid  current 
to  the  bay  where  its  tumultuous  waters  meet  the 
stormy  tides  of  the  Pacific. 


B 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  I. 

Description  of  Wappatoo  Island,  and  of  the  Mode  in  which  the  Natives 
gather  the  Wappatoo  Root — Character  of  the  Soil  and  its  Productions 
— Numerous  Tribes  residing  in  its  Vicinity — Probability  that  they  were 
all  of  the  Multnomah  Tribe  originally,  inferred  from  Similarity  of 
Dress,  Manners,  Language,  etc. — Description  of  their  Dress,  Weapons 
of  War,  and  Mode  of  Burying  the  Dead — Description  of  another  Vil- 
lage, called  the  Wahclellah  Village — Their  Mode  of  Architecture — Ex- 
traordinary Height  of  Beacon  Rock — Unfriendly  Character  of  the  In- 
dians at  that  Place — The  Party,  alarmed  for  their  Safety,  resolve  to 
inflict  summary  Vengeance,  in  case  the  Wahclellah  Tribe  persist  in 
their  Outrages  and  Insults — 'Interview  with  the  Chief  of  that  Tribe 
— and  Confidence  restored — Difficulty  of  drawing  the  Canoes  over 
the  Rapid's— Visited  by  a  Party  of  the  Yehugh  Tribe — Brief  Notice 
of  the  Weocksockwillackum  Tribe — Curious  Phenomenon  observed  in 
the  Columbia,  from  the  Rapids  to  the  Chilluckittequaws 1 

CHAPTER  II. 

Captain  Clarke  procures  four  Horses  for  the  Transportation  of  the  Baggage 
— Some  further  Account  of  the  Skilloot  Tribe — Their  Joy  at  the  first 
Appearance  of  Salmon  in  the  Columbia — Their  Thievish  Propensities — 
The  Party  arrive  at  the  Village  of  the  Eneeshurs,  where  the  Natives 
are  found  alike  unfriendly — The  Party  now  provided  with  Horses. — 
Prevented  from  the  Exercise  of  Hostility  against  this  Nation  by  a 
friendly  Adjustment — The  Scarcity  of  Timber  so  great  that  they  are 
compelled  to  buy  Wood  to  cook  their  Provision's — Arrive  at  the  Wah- 
howpum  Village — Dance  of  the  Natives — Having  obtained  their  Com- 
plement of  Horses,  the  Party  proceed  by  Land- — Arrive  at  the  Pish- 
quitpah  Village,  and  some  Account  of  that  People — Frank  and  Hos- 
pitable Conduct  of  the  Wollawollahs — Their  Mode  of  Dancing  de- 
scribed— Their  Mode  of  making  Fish-wares — Their  Amiable  Character 
21 

CHAPTER  III. 

The  party  pursue  their  Route  towards  the  Kooskooskee — They  reach  the 
Kinnooenim  Creek — Meet  with  an  old  Acquaintance,  called  the  Big- 
horn Indian — Arrive  at  the  Mouth  of  the  Kooskooskee — Difficulty  of 
purchasing  Provisions  from  the  Natives,  and  new  Device  of  the  Party 
to  obtain  them — Chopunnish  Style  of  Architecture — Captain  Clarke 
turns  Physician,  and  performs  several  Experiments  upon  the  Natives 
with  Success — Instance  of  their  Honesty — Distress  of  the  Indians  for 
want  of  Provisions  during  the  Winter — The  Party  finally  meet 
Twisted  Hair,  to  whom  their  Horses  had  been  intrusted  on  their 
Journey  down — Quarrel  between  that  Chief  and  another  of  his  Nation, 
in  regard  to  his  Horses — Causes  of  the  Controversy  stated  at  large— 
The  two  Chiefs  reconciled  by  the  Interference  of  the  Party,  and  the 

i 


u  CONTENTS 

Horsefe  restored — Extraordinary  Instance  of  Indian  Hospitality  to- 
wards  Strangers — Council  held  with  the  Chopunnish,  and  the  Object 
of  the  Expedition  explained — The  Party  perform  other  medical  Cures — 
Answer  of  one  Chopunnish  to  the  Speech  delivered  at  the  Council,  rat- 
ified by  a  singular  Ceremony — They  promise  faithfully  to  follow  the 
advice  of  their  Visitors 40 

CHAPTER  IV. 

The  Party  encamp  among  the  Chopunni'sh,  and  receive  farther  Evidence  of 
their  Hospitality — Indian  Mode  of  boiling  Bear's  Flesh — Of  decoying 
the  Deer  within  the  Reach  of  their  Arrows — Character  of  the  Sou 
and  Climate  among  the  Rocky  Mountains — Varieties  of  Climate — 
Character  of  the  Natives — Their  Dress  and  Ornaments — Mode  of  bury- 
ing the  Dead — The  Party  administer  medical  Relief  to  the  Native's — 
One  of  the  Natives  restored  to  the  Use  of  his  Limbs  by  Sweating, 
and  the  curious  Process  by  which  Perspiration  was  excited — An- 
other Proof  of  Chopunnish  Hospitality — Success  of  their  Sweating 
Prescription  of  an  Indian  Chief — Description  of  the  Horned  Lizard 
and  a  Variety  of  Insects — Attachment  of  the  Friends  of  a  dying 
Indian  to  a  Tomahawk  which  he  has  stolen  from  the  Party,  and 
which  they  desired  to  bury  with  the  Body — Description  of  the  River 
Tommanamah — The  Indians  return  an  Answer  to  a  Proposition  made 
by  the  Party 02 

CHAPTER  V. 

They  join  in  the  Diversions  of  the  Willetpos  Indians,  a  Tribe  hitherto 
unnoticed — Joy  of  the  Party  at  the  Prospect  of  Returning — Vegetation 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains — Preparations  to  resume  their  Journey — 
They  set  out,  and  arrive  at  Hungry  Creek — Difficulties  that  obstructed 
their  Progress — Compelled  to  return  and  wait  for  a  Guide  across  the 
Mountains — Their  Distress  for  want  of  Provisions — They  re'solve  to 
return  to  the  Quamash  Flats — Are  at  last  so  fortunate  as  to  procure 
Indian  Guide's,  with  whom  .they  resume  their  Journey — Dangers  of 
the  Route — Scarcity  of  Provisions,  and  the  Perils  to  which  they  were 
exposed,  their  Course  lying  along  the  Ridge  of  the  Mountains — De- 
scription of  the  warm  Spring,  where  the  Party  encamp — Fondness  of 
the  Indians  for  bathing  in  them, 79 

CHAPTER  VI. 

T*ie  Party,  proceeding  on  their  Journey  with  their  Indian  Guides,  agree 
to  divide,  take  'separate  Routes,  and  meet  again  at  the  Mouth  of 
the  Yellowstone  River — Captain  Lewis,  with  nine  Men,  proceeds  up 
the  eastern  Branch  of  Clarke's  River,  and  takes  leave  of  the  Indian 
Guides — Description  of  that  Branch,  and  Character  of  the  surrounding 
Country — The  Cokalahishkit  River — They  arrive  at  the  Ridge  dividing 
the  Missouri  from  the  Columbia  River — Meet  with  the  Buffalo  and 
Brown  JBear — Immense  Herds  of  Buffalo  seen  on  the  Borders  of  Medi- 
cine River — The  Party  encamp  on  White  Bear  Island — Singular  Ad- 
venture that  befell  M'Neil — Captain  Lewis,  with  three  of  his  Party, 
proceeds  to  explore  the  Source  of  Maria's  River — Tansy  River — lie 
reaches  the  Dividing  Line  of  these  two  Streams — General  Character 
of  the  surrounding  Country 98 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Captain  Lewi's  and  his  Party  arrive  at  the  Forks  of  Maria's  River — 
Alarmed  by  the  Evidence  of  being  in  the  Neighborhood  of  unfriendly 


CONTENTS  iii 

Indians,  and  distressed  for  Want  of  Provisions — The  unfavorable 
Weather  compels  them  to  return — Interview  with  the  Minnetarees  of 
Fort  de  Prairie — Mutual  Consternation — Resolution  of  Captain  Lewis 
— They  encamp  together  for  the  Night — Conversation  which  ensues — 
Conflict  occasioned  by  the  Indians  attempting  to  seize  the  Rifles  and 
Horses  of  the  Party,  in  which  one  of  the  Former  is  mortally  wounded 
— Captain  Lewis  kills  another  Indian,  and  his  narrow  Escape — Having 
taken  four  Horses  belonging  to  the  Indians,  they  hasten  to  join  the 
Party  with  Captain  Clarke — Arriving  near  the  Missouri,  they  are 
alarmed  by  the  Sound  of  Rifles,  which  fortunately  proves  to  be  from 
the  Party  under  Sergeant  Ordway — The  two  Detachments  thus  united, 
leave  their  Horses,  and  descend  the  Missouri  in  Canoes — Continue 
their  Route  down  the  River  to  join  Captain  Clarke- — Vast  Quantities 
of  Game  seen  on  their  Passage — Captain  Lewis  accidentally  wounded 
by  one  of  his  own  Party — They  at  length  join  Captain  Clarke 113 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

The  Party  commanded  by  Captain  Clarke  proceed  along  Clarke's  River 
— Their  Sorry  Commemoration  of  the  4th  of  July — Instance  of  Saca- 
jawea's  Strength  of  Memory — Description  of  the  River  and  of  the 
surrounding  Country,  as  the  Party  proceed — Horses  missing  and 
supposed  to  be  stolen  by  the  Indians — They  reach  Wisdom  River — Ex- 
traordinary Heat  of  a  Spring — Fondness  of  the  Party  for  Tobacco- 
Sergeant  Ordway  recovers  the  Horses — Captain  Clarke  divides  his 
Party,  one  Detachment  to  descend  the  River — They  reach  Gallatin 
and  Jefferson  Rivers — Arrive  at  Yellowstone  River — Otter  and  Beaver 
Rivers — Indian  Fortification — One  of  the  Party  accidentally  wounded 
— Engaged  in  building  Canoes — Twenty-four  Horses  stolen,  probably 
by  the  Indians 128 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Captain  Clarke  proceeds  down  the  River — Description  of  an  Indian  Lodge 
— 'Sergeant  Pryor  arrives  with  the  Horses — Remarkable  Rock  seen 
by  Captain  Clarke,  and  the  Beauty  of  the  Prospect  from  its  Summit — 
Yellowstone  and  Bighorn  Rivers  compared — Immense  Herds  of  Buf- 
falo— Fierceness  of  the  White  Bear — Encamp  at  the  Junction  of  the 
Yellowstone  and  the  Missouri — Generaf  Outline  given  of  the  Yellow- 
stone River — Sufferings  of  the  P'arty  from  the  Moschetoes — Sergeant 
Prypr  arrives,  and  reports  that  all  the  Horses  were  stolen  by  the 
Indians — In  this  Emergency  they  make  Canoes  of  Skins,  in  which 
they  descend  the  River  over  the  most  difficult  Shoals  and  Rapids — Un- 
expectedly meet  with  two  White  Men,  from  whom  they  procure  Intel- 
ligence in  relation  to  the  Indians  formerly  visited  by  the  Party.... 141 

CHAPTER  X. 

Captain  Clarke  and  his  Party  are  overtaken  by  the  Detachment  under 
Captain  Lewis,  and  they  all  descend  the  Missouri  together — They  re- 
visit the  Minnetaree  Indians,  and  hold  a  Council  with  that  Nation, 
as  well  as  the  Mahahas — Captain  Clarke  endeavors  to  persuade  their 
Chiefs  to  accompany  him  to  the  United  States,  which  they  decline  on 
Account  of  their  Fears  of  the  Sioux  in  their  Passage  down  the  River — 
Colter,  one  of  the  Party,  requests  and  obtains  Liberty  to  remain 
among  the  Indians,  for  the  Purpose  of  hunting  Beaver — Friendly  De- 
portment of  the  Mandans — Council  held  by  Captain  Clarke  with  the 
Chiefs  of  the  different  Villages — The  Chief  named  Big  White,  with  his 
Wife  and  Son,  agrees  to  accompany  the  Party  to  the  United  States — 
He  takes  an  affecting  Farewell  of  his  Nation — Chaboneau,  with  his 


iv  CONTENTS 

Wife,  declines  going  to  the  United  State's,,  and  they  are  left  among 
the  Indians — The  Party  at  length  proceed  on  their  Route — They  ar- 
rive among  the  Ricaras — Character  of  the  Chayennes,  their  Dress, 
Habits,  etc. — Captain  Clarke  offers  a  Medal  to  the  Chief  of  this  Nation, 
which  he  at  first  refuse's,  believing  it  to  be  Medicine,  but  which  he  is 
afterward  prevailed  on  to  accept — The  Ricaras  decline  permitting  one 
of  their  Number  to  accompany  Captain  Clarke  to  the  United  States, 
preferring  to  await  the  Return  of  their  Chief  who  had  already  gone — 
The  Party  proceed  rapidly  down  the  River — Prepare  to  defend  them- 
selves against  the  Tetons — Incredible  Number  of  Buffalo  seen  near 
White  River — They  meet  with  the  Tetons,  and  decline  their  Invita- 
tions to  land — Intrepidity  of  Captain  Clarke 159 

CHAPTER  XL 
The  Party  return  in  Safety  to  St.  Louis 182 


CHAPTER  L 

Description  of  Wappatoo  Island,  and  of  the  Mode  in  which  the  Natives 
gather  the  Wappatoo  Root. — Character  of  the  Soil  and  its  Productions. 
— Numerous  Tribes  residing  in  its  Vicinity. — Probability  that  they 
were  all  of  the  Multnomah  Tribe  originally,  inferred  from  Similarity 
of  Dress,  Manners,  Language,  &c. — Description  of  their  Dress,  Weap- 
ons of  War,  and  Mode  of  burying  the  Dead. — Description  of  another 
Village,  called  the  Wahclellah  Village.— Their  Mode  of  Architecture.— 
Extraordinary  Height  of  Beacon  Rock. — Unfriendly  Character  of  the 
Indians  at  that  Place. — The  Party,  alarmed  for  their  Safety,  resolve 
to  inflict  summary  Vengeance,  in  case  the  Wahclellah  Tribe  persist 
in  their  Outrages  and  Insults. — Interview  with  the  Chief  of  that  Tribe, 
and  Confidence  restored. — Difficulty  of  drawing  the  Canoes  over  the 
Rapids.— Visited  by  a  Party  of  the  Yehugh  Tribe.— Brief  Notice  of 
the  Weocksockwillackum  Tribe. — Curious  Phenomenon  observed  in 
the  Columbia,  from  the  Rapids  to  the  Chilluckittequaws. 

"  A  PRIL  4.  The  hunters  were  still  out  in  every 
/\  direction.  Those  from  the  opposite  side, of 
L  V  the  river  returned  with  a  bear  and  some  veni- 
son ;  but  the  flesh  of  six  deer  and  an  elk  which  they 
had  killed  was  so  meager  and  unfit  for  use  that  they 
had  left  it  in  the  woods.  Two  other  deer  were  brought 
in ;  but,  as  the  game  was  all  so  poor,  we  despatched 
a  large  party  to  some  low  grounds  on  the  south, 
six  miles  above  us,  to  hunt  there  until  our  arrival.  As 
usual,  many  Indians  came  to  our  camp,  some  of  them 
descending  the  river  with  their  families,  and  others 
from  below,  with  no  object  except  to  gratify  then- 
curiosity. 

1 


2       LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

"  The  visit  of  Captain  Clarke  to  the  Multnomahs, 
and  information  obtained  from  other  sources,  now 
enabled  us  to  give  some  account  of  the  neighbouring 
countries  and  nations.  The  most  important  spot  is 
Wappatoo  Island,  a  large  tract  lying  betweeen  the 
Multnomah  and  an  arm  of  the  Columbia,  which  we 
called  Wappatoo  Inlet,  and  separated  from  the  main 
land  by  a  sluice  eighty  yards  wide,  which  at  the  dis- 
tance of  seven  miles  up  the  Multnomah  connects  that 
river  with  the  inlet.  The  island  thus  formed  is  about 
twenty  miles  long,  and  varies  in  breadth  from  five  to 
ten  miles.  The  land  is  high,  and  extremely  fertile ; 
and  on  most  parts  is  covered  with  a  heavy  growth  of 
cottonwood,  ash,  the  large-leafed  ash,  and  sweet  wil- 
low, the  black  alder  common  on  the  coast  having  now 
disappeared.  But  the  chief  wealth  of  this  island  is 
found  in  numerous  ponds  in  the  interior,  which 
abound  with  the  common  arrowhead  (sagittaria  sagitti- 
folia),  to  the  root  of  which  is  attached  a  bulb  growing 
beneath  it  in  the  mud.  This  bulb,  to  which  the  In- 
dians give  the  name  of  wappatoo,  is  their  great  article 
of  food,  and  almost  the  staple  article  of  commerce  on 
the  Columbia.  It  is  never  out  of  season;  so  that  at 
all  times  of  the  year  the  valley  is  frequented  by  the 
neighbouring  Indians,  who  come  to  gather  it.  It  is 
collected  chiefly  by  the  women,  who  employ  for  the 
purpose  canoes  from  ten  to  fourteen  feet  in  length, 
about  two  feet  wide,  nine  inches  deep,  and  tapering 
from  the  middle.  They  are  sufficient  to  contain  a  single 
person  and  several  bushels  of  roots,  yet  so  very  light 
that  a  woman  can  carry  them  with  ease.  She  takes 
one  of  these  canoes  into  the  pond  where  the  water  is 
as  high  as  the  breast,  and  by  means  of  her  toes  sep- 


MODE  OF  GATHERING  WAPPATOO         3 

arates  this  bulb  from  the  root,  which,  on  being  freed 
from  the  mud,  rises  immediately  to  the  surface  of 
the  water,  and  is  thrown  into  the  canoe.  In  this 
manner  these  patient  females  will  remain  in  the  water 
for  several  hours,  even  in  the  depth  of  winter.  This 
plant  is  found  throughout  the  whole  extent  of  the  val- 
ley in  which  we  then  were,  but  does  not  grow  on  the 
Columbia  farther  east. 

"  This  valley  is  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  moun- 
tainous country  bordering  the  coast,  from  which  it 
extends  eastward  thirty  miles  in  a  direct  line,  to  the 
range  of  mountains  crossing  the  Columbia  above  the 
Great  Falls;  its  length  from  north  to  south  we  were 
unable  to  determine,  but  we  believe  it  to  extend  in 
this  direction  a  great  distance.  It  is,  in  fact,  the  only 
desirable  situation  for  a  settlement  on  the  western  side 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  and,  being  naturally  fertile, 
would,  if  properly  cultivated,  afford  subsistence  for 
forty  or  fifty  thousand  souls.  The  high  lands  are 
generally  of  a  dark  rich  loam,  not  much  encumbered 
with  stones,  and,  though  waving,  by  no  means  too 
steep  for  cultivation:  a  few  miles  from  the  river  they 
widen,  at  least  on  the  north  side,  into  rich,  extensive 
prairies.  The  timber  on  them  is  abundant,  and  con- 
sists almost  exclusively  of  the  several  species  of  fir 
already  described,  some  of  the  trees  growing  to  a 
great  height.  We  measured  a  fallen  tree  of  that  spe- 
cies, and  found  that  including  the  stump  of  about  six 
•feet,  it  was  three  hundred  and  eighteen  feet  in  length, 
though  its  diameter  was  only  three  feet.  The  dog- 
wood is  also  abundant  on  the  uplands :  it  differs  from 
that  of  the  United  States  in  having  a  much  smoother 
bark,  and  in  being  much  larger,  the  trunk  attaining  a 


4       LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

diameter  of  nearly  two  feet.  There  is  some  white 
cedar  of  a  large  size,  but  no  pine  of  any  kind.  In  the 
bottom  lands  are  the  cottonwood,  ash,  large-leafed 
ash,  and  sweet  willow;  interspersed  with  which  are 
the  pashequaw,  shanataque,  and  compound  fern,  of 
which  the  natives  use  the  roots.  The  red  flowering 
currant  abounds  on  the  uplands,  while  along  the  river 
bottoms  grow  luxuriantly  the  water-cress,  strawberry, 
cinquefoil,  narrow  dock,  sandrush,  and  the  flowering 
pea.  There  is  also  a  species  of  the  bear's-claw,  but  the 
large-leafed  thorn  had  disappeared,  nor  did  we  see 
any  longer  the  whortleberry,  the  shallun,  nor  any  of 
the  other  evergreen  shrubs  bearing  berries,  except  a 
species  the  leaf  of  which  has  a  prickly  margin. 

"  Among  the  animals  we  observed  the  martin, 
small  geese,  the  small  speckled  woodpecker  with  a 
white  back,  the  blue  crested  cprvus,  ravens,  crows, 
eagles,  vultures,  and  hawks.  The  mellow  bug  and 
long-legged  spider,  as  well  as  the  butterfly,  blowing- 
fly,  and  tick,  had  already  made  their  appearance ;  but 
none  of  these  are  different  from  insects  of  the  same 
sort  in  the  United  States.  The  moschetoes,  too,  had 
resumed  their  visits,  but  were  not  yet  troublesome. 

''  The  nations  who  inhabit  this  fertile  neighbour- 
hood are  very  numerous.  The  Wappatoo  Inlet,  three 
hundred  yards  wide,  extends  for  ten  or  twelve  miles 
to  the  south,  as  far  as  the  hills,  near  which  it  receives 
the  waters  of  a  'small  creek,  whose  sources  are  not  far 
from  those  of  the  Killamuck  River.  On  that  creek 
reside  the  Clackstar  nation,  a  numerous  people  of 
twelve  hundred  souls,  who  subsist  on  fish  and  wappatoo, 
and  trade,  by  means  of  the  Killamuck  River,  with  the 
nation  of  that  name  on  the  seacoast.  Lower  down  the 


DIFFERENT  TRIBES  OF  INDIANS  5 

inlet,  towards  the  Columbia,  is  the  tribe  called  Cathla- 
cumup.  On  the  sluice  which  connects  the  inlet  with 
the  Multnomah  are  the  Cathlanahquiah  and  Cathla- 
comatup  tribes;  and  on  Wappatoo  Island  the  Clannah- 
minamuns  and  Clahnaquahs.  Immediately  opposite, 
near  the  Towahnahiooks,  are  the  Quathlapotles,  and 
higher  up,  on  the  side  of  the  Columbia,  the  Shotos. 
All  these  tribes,  as  well  as  the  Cathlahaws,  who  live 
somewhat  lower  on  the  river,  and  have  an  old  village 
on  Deer  Island,  may  be  considered  as  parts  of  the  great 
Multnomah  nation,  which  has  its  principal  residence 
on  Wappatoo  Island,  near  the  mouth  of  the  large  river 
to  which  they  give  their  name.  Forty  miles  above  its 
junction  with  the  Columbia,  this  river  receives  the 
waters  of  the  Clackamos,  a  river  which  may  be  traced 
through  a  woody  and  fertile  country  to  its  sources  in 
Mount  Jefferson,  almost  to  the  foot  of  which  it  is 
navigable  for  canoes.  A  nation  of  the  same  name  re- 
sides in  eleven  villages  along  its  borders:  they  live 
chiefly  on  fish  and  roots,  which  abound  in  the  Clacka- 
mos and  along  its  banks,  though  they  sometimes  de- 
scend to  the  Columbia  to  gather  wappatoo,  where  they 
cannot  be  distinguished  in  dress,  manners,  or  language 
from  the  tribes  of  the  Multnomahs.  Two  days'  jour- 
ney from  the  Columbia,  or  about  twenty  miles  beyond 
the  entrance  of  the  Clackamos,  are  the  Falls  of  the 
Multnomah.  At  this  place  reside  the  Cushooks  and 
Chahcowahs,  two  tribes  that  are  attracted  there  by  the 
fish,  and  by  the  convenience  of  trading  across  the 
mountains,  and  down  the  Killamuck  River,  with  the 
Killamucks,  from  whom  they  procure  train  oil.  These 
falls  are  occasioned  by  a  high  range  of  mountains,  be- 
yond which  the  country  stretches  into  a  vast  level 


6       LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

plain  wholly  destitute  of  timber.  As  far  as  the  Indians 
with  whom  we  conversed  had  ever  penetrated  that 
country,  it  seems  to  be  inhabited  by  a  nation  called 
Calahpoewah,  a  very  numerous  people,  whose  villages, 
nearly  forty  in  number,  are  scattered  along*  each  side 
of  the  Multnomah,  which  furnishes  them  with  their 
chief  subsistence,  viz.,  fish,  and  the  roots  along  its 
banks. 

"  All  the  tribes  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Wappatoo 
Island  we  considered  as  Multnomahs ;  not  because 
they  are  in  any  degree  subordinate  to  that  nation,  but 
they  all  seem  to  regard  it  as  being  the  most  powerful. 
There  was  no  distinguished  chief  except  the  one  at  the 
head  of  the  Multnomahs ;  and  they  are,  moreover,  al- 
lied by  similarity  of  dress  and  manners,  and  of  houses 
and  language,  which,  much  more  than  the  feeble  re- 
straints of  Indian  government,  contribute  to  make  one 
people.  These  circumstances  separate  them  also  from 
the  nations  lower  down  the  river.  The  Clatsops,  Chin- 
nooks,  Wahkiacums,  and  Cathlamahs  understand  each 
other  perfectly :  their  language  varies,  however,  in 
some  respects  from  that  of  the  Skilloots ;  but,  on  reach- 
ing the  Multnomah  Indians,  we  found  that,  although 
many  words  were  the  same,  while  a  great  number  dif- 
fered only  in  the  mode  of  accenting  them  from  those 
employed  by  the  Indians  near  the  mouth  of  the  Colum- 
bia, yet  there  was,  in  fact,  a  very  sensible  distinction. 
The  natives  of  the  valley  are  of  larger  stature,  and 
rather  better  shaped  than  those  on  the  seacoast:  their 
appearance,  too,  is  generally  healthy,  though  they  are 
afflicted  with  the  common  disease  of  the  Columbia, 
soreness  of  the  eyes."  *  *  * 

"  The  dress  of  the  men  does  not  differ  from  that 


INDIANS  OF  THE  COLUMBIA  VALLEY      7 

used  below ;  they  are  chiefly  distinguished  by  a  passion 
for  large  brass  buttons,  which  they  will  fix  on  a  sail- 
or's jacket,  whenever  they  are  so  fortunate  as  to  obtain 
one,  without  the  slightest  regard  to  arrangement.  The 
women,  also,  wear  the  short  robe  already  described; 
but  their  hair  is  most  commonly  braided  into  two 
tresses,  falling  over  each  ear  in  front  of  the  body ;  and 
instead  of  the  tissue  of  bark,  they  employ  a  piece  of 
leather  in  the  shape  of  a  pocket  handkerchief,  tied 
round  the  loins."  *  *  * 

"  The  houses  are  generally  on  a  level  with  the 
ground,  though  some  are  sunk  to  the  depth  of  two  or 
three  feet,  and,  like  those  near  the  coast,  are  adorned, 
or  rather  disfigured,  with  carvings  or  paintings  on  the 
posts,  doors,  and  beds.  They  have  no  peculiar  weapon 
except  a  kind  of  broadsword  made  of  iron,  from  three 
to  four  feet  long,  the  blade  about  four  inches  wide,  and 
very  thin  and  sharp  at  both  its  edges,  as  well  as  at  the 
point.  They  have  also  bludgeons  of  wood  of  the  same 
form ;  and  both  kinds  generally  hang  at  the  head  of 
their  beds :  these  are  formidable  weapons.  Like  the 
natives  of  the  seacoast,  they  are  also  very  fond  of  cold, 
hot,  and  vapour  baths,  which  are  used  at  all  seasons, 
for  the  purpose  of  health  as  well  as  pleasure. 

'  The  mode  of  burying  the  dead  in  canoes  is  not 
practised  by  the  natives  here.  The  place  of  deposite 
is  a  vault  formed  of  boards,  slanting  like  the  roof  of  a 
house,  from  a  pole  supported  by  two  forks.  Under  this 
the  dead  are  placed  horizontally  on  boards,  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  earth,  and  carefully  covered  with  mats. 
The  bodies  are  here  laid  to  the  height  of  three  or  four 
upon  each  other,  and  the  different  articles  which  were 
most  esteemed  by  the  deceased  are  placed  by  their 

M.  of  H.— XXIX— 13 


8        LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

side ;  their  canoes  themselves  being  sometimes  taken 
to  pieces  to  strengthen  the  vault. 

"  All  these  people  trade  in  anchovies  and  sturgeon, 
but  chiefly  in  wappatoo  \  to  obtain  which,  the  inhabit- 
ants both  above  and  below  come  at  all  seasons,  the 
latter  bringing,  in  turn,  beads,  cloth,  and  various  other 
articles  procured  from  the  Europeans. 

"  April  5.  We  dried  our  meat  as  well  as  the  cloudy 
weather  would  permit.  In  the  course  of  the  chase  yes- 
terday, one  of  our  men  who  had  killed  the  bear  found 
the  den  of  another  with  three  cubs  in  it.  He  returned 
to  it  to-day  in  hope  of  finding  the  dam,  but,  being  dis- 
appointed in  this,  he  brought  the  cubs ;  and  on  this 
occasion  Drewyer,  our  most  experienced  huntsman, 
assured  us  that  he  had  never  known  a  single  instance 
where  a  female  bear  had  been  once  disturbed  by  the 
hunter  and  obliged  to  leave  her  young,  that  she  re- 
turned to  them  again.  The  young  bears  we  sold  for 
wappatoo  to  some  of  the  numerous  Indians  who  visited 
us  in  parties  during  the  day,  and  who  behaved  very 
well.  Having  prepared  our  stock  of  dried  meat,  we  set 
out  the  next  morning."  *  *  * 

They  proceeded,  however,  but  a  few  miles  the  next 
day,  as  they  were  obliged  to  wait  and  collect  their 
hunters ;  nor  did  they  start  again  the  two  following 
days,  being  employed  in  drying  some  additional  meat 
that  was  brought  in  on  the  7th,  and  on  the  8th  the 
weather  would  not  permit  their  leaving. 

"  April  9.  The  wind  having  moderated,  we  re- 
loaded the  canoes,  and  set  out  by  seven  o'clock.  We 
stopped  to  take  up  two  of  our  hunters  who  had  left 
us  yesterday,  but  had  been  unsuccessful  in  the  chase, 
and  then  proceeded  to  the  Wahclellah  village,  situated 


BEACON  ROCK  9 

on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  about  a  mile  below  Bea- 
con Rock.  During  the  whole  of  the  route  from  ot*r 
camp  we  passed  along  under  high,  steep,  and  rocky 
sides  of  mountains,  which  here  close  in  on  each  side  of 
the  river,  forming-  stupendous  precipices  covered  with 
fir  and  white  cedar.  Down  these  heights  descend  the 
most  beautiful  cascades,  one  of  which,  formed  by  a 
large  creek,  falls  over  a  perpendicular  rock  three  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  water,  while  other  smaller  streams 
precipitate  themselves  from  a  still  greater  elevation, 
and,  partially  evaporating  in  a  mist,  collect  again,  and 
make  a  second  descent  before  they  reach  the  bottom  of 
the  rocks.  We  stopped  to  breakfast  at  this  village; 
and  here  we  found  the  tomahawk  which  had  been  sto- 
len from  us  on  the  4th  of  last  November.  They  as- 
sured us  that  they  had  bought  it  of  the  Indians  below; 
but,  as  the  latter  had  already  informed  us  that  the 
Wahclellahs  had  such  an  article  which  they  had  stolen, 
we  made  no  difficulty  about  retaking  our  property." 
*  *  *  "  After  purchasing,  with  much  difficulty,  a  few 
dogs  and  some  wappatoo  from  the  Wahclellahs,  we  left 
them  at  two  o'clock,  and,  passing  along  the  Beacon 
Rock,  reached  in  two  hours  the  Clahclellah  village. 

"  This  rock,  which  we  now  observed  more  accu- 
rately than  we  had  done  in  our  descent,  stands  on  the 
north  side  of  the  river,  insulated  from  the  hills.  The 
northern  side  has  a  partial  growth  of  fir  or  pine.  To 
the  south  it  rises  in  an  unbroken  precipice  to  the  height 
of  seven  hundred  feet,  where  it  terminates  in  a  sharp 
point,  and  may  be  seen  at  a  distance  of  twenty  miles 
below.  This  rock  may  be  considered  as  the  point 
where  the  tide-water  commences ;  though  the  influence 
of  the  tide  is  perceptible  here  in  autumn  only,  at  which 
time  the  river  is  low.  What  the  precise  difference  is 


10      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

at  those  seasons,  we  could  not  determine;  but,  on  ex- 
amining  a  rock  which  we  had  lately  passed,  and  com- 
paring its  appearance  with  what  we  had  observed  last 
November,  we  judged  the  flood  of  this  spring  to  be 
twelve  feet  above  the  height  of  the  river  at  that  time. 
From  Beacon  Rock  as  low  down  as  the  marshy  islands, 
the  general  width  of  the  river  is  from  one  to  two  miles, 
though  in  many  places  it  is  greater.  On  landing  at 
the  village  of  the  Clahclellahs,  we  found  them  busy  in 
erecting  their  huts,  which  seemed  to  be  of  a  temporary 
kind  only,  so  that  most  probably  they  do  not  remain 
longer  than  the  salmon  season.  Like  their  countrymen 
whom  we  had  just  left,  these  people  were  sulky  and 
ill  humoured,  and  so  much  on  the  alert  to  pilfer  that 
we  were  obliged  to  keep  them  at  a  distance  from  our 
baggage.  As  our  large  canoes  could  not  ascend  the 
rapids  on  the  north,  side,  we  passed  on  the  opposite 
shore,  and  entered  the  narrow  channel  which  separates 

it  from  Brant  Island.    The  weather  was  very  cold  and 

j        * 

rainy,  and  the  wind  so  high  that  we  were  afraid  to 
attempt  the  rapids  the  same  evening,  and  there- 
fore, rinding  a  safe  harbour,  we  encamped  for  the 
night."  *  *  * 

"  April  10.  Early  in  the  morning  we  dropped  down 
the  channel  to  the  lower  end  of  Brant  Island,  and 
then  drew  our  boats  up  the  rapid.  At  the  distance  of 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  we  crossed  over  to  a  village  of 
Clahclellahs,  consisting  of  six  houses,  on  the  opposite 
side.  The  river  is  here  about  four  hundred  yards  wide, 
and  the  current  so  rapid  that,  although  we  employed 
five  oars  for  each  canoe,  we  were  borne  down  a  con- 
siderable distance.  While  we  were  at  breakfast,  one 
of  the  Indians  offered  us  two  sheepskins  for  sale,  one 
of  which  was  the  skin  of  a  full-grown  a.n!mal,  and  was 


MOUNTAIN  SHEEP  11 

as  large  as  that  of  a  common  deer ;-  the  second  was 
smaller,  and  the  skin  of  the  head,  with  the  horns  on  it, 
had  been  made  into  a  cap,  and  was  highly  prized  by 
the  owner.  He,  however,  sold  the  cap  to  us  for  a 
knife,  and  the  rest  of  the  skin  for  those -of  two  elk;  but, 
observing  our  anxiety  to  purchase  the  other  skin, 
they  would  not  accept  the  same  price  for  it,  and,  as  we 
hoped  to  procure  more  in  the  neighbourhood,  we  would 
not  offer  a  greater.  The  horns  of  the  animal  were 
black,  smooth,  and  erect,  and  rise  from  the  middle  of 
the  forehead,  a  little  above  the  eyes,  in  a  cylindrical 
form,  to  the  height  of  four  inches,  where  they  are 
pointed.  The  Clahclellahs  informed  us  that  these 
sheep  were  very  abundant  on  the  heights  and  among 
the  cliffs  of  the  adjacent  mountains,  and  that  these  two 
had  been  lately  killed  out  of  a  herd  of  thirty-six,  at 
no  great  distance  from  the  village.  We  were  soon 
joined  by  our  hunters,  with  three  black-tailed  fallow 
deer,  and,  having  purchased  a  few  white  salmon,  pro- 
ceeded on  our  route.  The  south  side  of  the  river  is 
impassable,  and  the  rapidity  of  the  current,  as  well  as 
the  large  rocks  along  the  shore,  render  the  naviga- 
tion of  even  the  north  side  extremely  difficult.  Dur- 
ing the  greater  part  of  the  day  it  was  necessary  to 
draw  them  along  the  shore;  and,  as  we  had  only  a 
single  towrope  that  was  strong  enough,  we^  were 
obliged  to  bring  them  one  after  the  other.  In  this 
tedious  and  laborious  manner  we  at  length  reached  the 
portage  on  the  north  side,  and  carried  our  baggage  to 
the  top  of  a  hill  about  two  hundred  paces  distant, 
where  we  encamped  for  the  night.  The  canoes  were 
drawn  on  shore  and  secured,  but  one  of  them  having 
got  loose,  drifted  down  to  the  last  village,  the  inhabit- 


12      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

ants  of  which  brought  her  back  to  us,  an  instance  of 
honesty  Avhich  we  rewarded  with  a  present  of  two 
knives.  It  rained  all  night,  and  the  next  morning, 

"  April  11,  so  that  the  tents  and  the  skins  which 
covered  the  baggage  were  wet.  We  therefore  deter- 
mined to  take  the  canoes  over  the  portage  first,  in 
hopes  that  by  the  afternoon  the  rain  would  cease,  and 
we  might  carry  our  baggage  across  ( without  injury. 
The  work  was  immediately  begun  by  almost  the  whole 
party,  who  in  the  course  of  the  day  dragged  four  of 
the  canoes  to  the  head  of  the  rapids  with  great  diffi- 
culty and  labour.  A  guard,  consisting  of  one  sick  man 
and  three  who  had  been  lamed  by  accidents,  remained 
with  Captain  Lewis  to  protect  the  baggage.  This 
precaution  was  absolutely  necessary  to  save  it  from 
the  depredations  of  the  Wahclellahs,  who,  we  discov- 
ered, were  great  thieves,  notwithstanding  their  appar- 
ent honesty  in  restoring  our  boat :  indeed,  so  arrogant 
and  intrusive  did  they  become,  that  nothing  but  our 
rmmbers,  we  were  convinced,  preserved  us  from  at- 
tack. They  crowded  about  us  while  we  were  taking 
up  the  boats,  and  one  of  them  had  the  insolence  to 
throw  stones  down  the  bank  at  two  of  our  men.  We 
now  found  it  necessary  to  depart  from  our  uniformly 
mild  and  pacific  course  of  conduct.  On  returning  to 
the  head  of  the  portage,  a  large  number  of  them  met 
our  men,  and  seemed  very  ill  disposed.  Shields  had 
stopped  to  purchase  a  dog,  and,  being  separated  from 
the  rest  of  the  party,  two  Indians  pushed  him  out  of 
the  road,  and  attempted  to  take  the  dog  from  him.  He 
had  no  weapon  but  a  long  knife,  with  which  he  imme- 
diately attacked  them  both,  hoping  to  despatch  them 
before  they  had  time  to  draw  their  arrows ;  but,  as  soon 


VISITED  BY  CLAHCLELLAH  CHIEF       is 

as  they  saw  his  design,  they  fled  into  the  woods.  Soon 
afterward  we  were  told  by  an  Indian  who  spoke  Clat- 
sop,  which  language  we  had  learned  during  the  winter, 
that  the  Wahclellahs  had  carried  off  Captain  Lewises 
dog  to  their  village  below.  Three  men,  well  armed, 
were  instantly  sent  in  pursuit  of  them,  with  orders  to 
fire  if  there  was  the  slightest  resistance  or  hesitation. 
At  the  distance  of  two  miles  they  came  within  sight 
of  the  thieves,  who,  rinding  themselves  pursued,  left 
the  dog  and  made  off.  We  now  ordered  all  the  Indians 
out  of  our  camp,  and  signified  to  them,  if  any  one  of 
them  stole  our  baggage  or  insulted  our  men,  he  would 
be  instantly  shot;  a  resolution  which  we  were  deter- 
mined to  enforce,  as  it  was  now  our  only  means  of 
safety.  We  were  visited  during  the  day  by  a  chief 
of  the  Clahclellahs,  who  seemed  mortified  at  the  treat- 
ment we  had  received,  and  told  us  that  the  persons 
at  the  head  of  these  outrages  were  two  very  bad  men 
who  belonged  to  the  Wahclellahs,  but  that  the  nation 
itself  did  not  by  any  means  wish  to  displease  us.  This 
chief  seemed  very  well  disposed,  and  we  had  every 
reason  to  believe  was  much  respected  by  the  neigh- 
bouring Indians.  We  therefore  gave  him  a  small 
medal,  and  showed  him  all  the  attention  in  our  power, 
with  which  he  appeared  to  be  very  much  gratified; 
and  we  trusted  that  his  interposition  would  prevent 
the  necessity  of  our  resorting  to  force  against  his 
countrymen. 

"  Man}''  Indians  from  the  villages  above  passed  us 
in  the  course  of  the  day,  on  their  return  from  trading 
with  the  natives  of  the  valley,  and  among  others  we 
recognized  an  Eloot,  who,  with  ten  or  twelve  of  his 
nation,  were  on  their  way  home  to  the  Long  Narrows 


14      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

of  the  Columbia.  These  people  do  not,  as  we  are  com- 
pelled to  do,  drag  their  canoes  up  the  rapids,  but  leave 
them  at  the  head  as  they  descend,  and,  carrying  their 
goods  across  the  portage,  hire  or  borrow  others  from 
the  people  below.  When  the  traffic  is  over,  they  re- 
turn to  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  where  they  leave  these 
boats,  and  resume  their  own  at  the  head  of  the  por- 
tage. The  labour  of  carrying  the  goods  across  is 
equally  shared  by  the  men  and  women ;  and  we  were 
struck  by  the  contrast  between  the  decent  conduct  of 
all  the  natives  from  above,  and  the  profligacy  and  ill 
manners  of  the  Wahclellahs.  About  three  quarters  of 
a  mile  below  our  camp  was  a  burial-ground,  which 
seemed  common  to  the  Wahclellahs,  Clahclellahs,  and 
Yehhuhs.  It  consisted  of  eight  sepulchres  on  the  north 
bank  of  the  river." 

In  dragging  their  remaining  pirogue  up  the  rapids 
the  next  day,  they  unfortunately  lost  her,  but  suc- 
ceeded in  transporting  all  their  baggage  to  the  head 
of  the  portage  by  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon;  and 
the  weather  being  cold  and  rainy,  they  concluded  to 
remain  there  during  the  night.  "  The  portage,"  says 
the  Journal,  "  was  two  thousand  eight  hundred  yards, 
along  a  narrow  road,  at  all  times  rough,  and  then  ren- 
dered slippery  by  the  rain.  About  half  way  was  an 
old  village,  which  the  Clahclellah  chief  informed  us 
was  the  occasional  residence  of  his  tribe.  These 
houses  were  uncommonly  large;  one  of  them  measur- 
ing one  hundred  and  sixty  by  forty  feet,  the  frames  be- 
ing constructed  in  the  usual  manner,  except  that  they 
were  double,  so  as  to  appear  like  one  house  within  an- 
other. The  floors  were  on  a  level  with  the  ground, 
and  the  roofs  had  been  taken  down,  and  sunk  in  a 


THE  YEHHUHS  ^ 

pond  behind  the  village.  We  now  found  that  our  firm- 
ness the  day  before  had  made  the  Indians  much  more 
respectful:  they  did  not  crowd  about  us  in  such  num- 
bers, and  behaved  with  much  more  propriety. 

"  Among  those  who  visited  us  here  were  about 
twenty  of  the  Yehhuhs,  a  tribe  of  Shahalas,  whom  we 
had  found  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  immediately 
above  the  rapids,  but  who  had  now  emigrated  to  the 
opposite  shore,  where  they  generally  take  salmon. 
Like  their  relations,  the  Wahclellahs,  they  had  taken 
their  houses  with  them,  so  that  only  one  was  now 
standing  where  the  old  village  was."  *  *  * 

"  There  is  but  little  difference  in  appearance  be- 
tween the  Yehhuhs,  Wahclellahs,  Clahclellahs,  and 
Neerchokioos,  who  compose  the  Shahala  nation.  On 
comparing  the  vocabulary  of  the  Wahclellahs  with 
that  of  the  Chinnooks,  we  found  that  the  names  for 
numbers  were  precisely  the  same,  though  the  other 
parts  of  the  language  were  essentially  different.  The 
women  of  all  these  tribes  braid  their  hair,  pierce  the 
nose,  and  some  of  them  have  lines  of  dots  reaching 
from  the  ankle  as  high  as  the  middle  of  the  leg.  These 
Yehhuhs  behaved  with  great  propriety,  and  condemned 
the  treatment  we  had  received  from  the  Wahclellahs. 
We  purchased  from  one  of  them  the  akin  of  a  sheep 
killed  near  this  place,  for  which  we  gave  in  exchange 
the  skins  of  a  deer  and  an  elk.  These  animals,  he  told 
us,  usually  frequent  the  rocky  parts  of  the  mountains, 
where  they  are  found  in  great  numbers.  The  bighorn 
is  also  an  inhabitant  of  these  mountains,  and  the  na- 
tives have  several  robes  made  of  their  skins."  *  *  * 

In  ascending  the  river  the  next  day,  they  found 
that  their  boats  were  too  heavily  laden,  in  consequence 


16      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

of  the  loss  of  their  pirogue ;  but  they  succeeded  in  pur- 
chasing two  additional  canoes  at  a  Yehhuh  village,  the 
inhabitants  of  which  were  very  friendly.  They  ad- 
vanced about  six  miles  beyond  Cruzatte's  River,  where 
they  encamped,  and,  being  joined  by  all  their  hunters 
the  next  morning,  resumed  their  journey.  "  At  one 
o'clock,"  continues  the  Journal,  "  we  halted  for  dinner 
at  a  large  village,  situated  in  a  narrow  bottom  just 
above  the  entrance  of  Canoe  Creek.  The  houses  were 
detached  from  each  other  so  as  to  occupy  an  extent  of 
several  miles,  though  only  twenty  in  number.  Those 
which  were  inhabited  were  on  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  and  built  in  the  same  shape  as  those  near  the 
Rapids;  but  there  were  others  not  occupied,  which 
were  completely  under  ground.  They  were  sunk  about 
eight  feet  deep,  and  covered  with  strong  timbers,  and 
several  feet  of  earth  in  a  conical  form.  On  descend- 
ing by  means  of  a  ladder  through  a  hole  at  the  top, 
which  answered  the  double  purpose  of  a  door  and  a 
chimney,  we  found  that  the  house  consisted  of  a  sin- 
gle room,  nearly  circular,  and  about  sixteen  feet  in 
diameter. 

"  The  inhabitants,  who  called  themselves  Woeck- 
sockwillacums,  differed  but  little  from  those  near  the 
Rapids,  the  chief  distinction  in  dress  being  a  few  leg- 
gins  and  moccasins  resembling  those  worn  by  the  Cho- 
punnish.  These  people  had  ten  or  twelve  good  horses, 
which  were  the  first  we  had  seen  since  leaving  this 
neighbourhood  in  the  preceding  autumn.  The  country 
below,  is  indeed,  of  such  a  nature  as  to  prevent  the  use 
of  this  animal,  except  in  the  Columbia  Valley,  and 
there  they  would  be  of  no  great  service,  as  the  inhab- 
itants reside  chiefly  on  the  river  side,  and  the  country 


COUNTRY  ALONG  THE  COLUMBIA        17 

is  too  thickly  wooded  to  suffer  them  to  hunt  on  horse- 
back. Most  of  these  horses,  they  informed  us,  had 
been  taken  in  a  warlike  excursion  lately  made  against 
the  Towahnahiooks,  a  part  of  the  Snake  nation  living 
on  the  upper  part  of  the  Multnomah,  to  the  southeast 
of  this  place.  Their  language  is  the  same  as  that  of 
the  Chilluckittequaws.  They  seemed  inclined  to  be 
very  civil,  and  gave  us  in  traffic  some  roots,  chappelell, 
filberts,  dried  berries,  and  five  dogs. 

"  After  dinner  we  proceeded,  and,  passing  at  the 
distance  of  six  miles  high  cliffs  on  the  left,  encamped 
at  the  mouth  of  a  small  run  on  the  same  side.  A  little 
above  us  was  a  village,  consisting  of  about  one  hun- 
dred fighting  men,  of  a  tribe  called  Smackshops,  many 
of  whom  passed  the  evening  with  us.  They  did  not 
differ  in  any  respect  from  the  inhabitants  of  the  village 
below."  *  *  * 

Soon  after  starting  the  next  morning  they  came  to 
Sepulchre  Rock.  '*  This  rock,"  says  the  Journal, 
"  stands  near  the  middle  of  the  river,  and  contains 
about  two  acres  of  ground  above  high  water.  Over 
this  surface  are  scattered  thirteen  vaults,  constructed 
like  those  below  the  Rapids,  and  some  of  them  more 
than  half  filled  with  dead  bodies.  After  satisfying  our 
curiosity  Avith  these  venerable  remains,  we  returned  to 
the  northern  shore,  and  proceeded  to  a  village  at  the 
distance  of  four  miles.  On  landing,  we  found  that  the 
inhabitants  belonged  to  the  same  nation  as  those  we 
had  just  left,  and  as  they  had  horses,  we  made  an  at- 
tempt to  purchase  some  of  them ;  but,  with  all  our  dex- 
terity in  exhibiting  our  wares,  we  could  not  succeed, 
as  we  had  none  of  the  only  article  which  they  seemed 
desirous  of  procuring,  a  sort  of  war-hatchet  called  by 


is      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

the  Northwest  traders  an  eye-dog.  We  therefore  pur- 
chased two  dogs,  and,  taking  leave  of  these  Woeck- 
sockwillacums,  proceeded  to  another  of  their  villages, 
just  below  the  entrance  of  Cataract  River.  Here,  too, 
we  tried  in  vain  to  purchase  horses ;  nor  did  we  meet 
with  better  success  at  the  two  villages  of  Chilluckitte- 
quaws,  a  few  miles  farther  up  the  river.  At  three  in 
the  afternoon  we  came  to  the  mouth  of  Quinette  Creek, 
which  we  ascended  a  short  distance,  and  encamped  for 
the  night  at  a  spot  we  had  called  Rock  Fort.  Here  we 
were  soon  visited  by  some  of  the  people  from  the  Great 
Narrows  and  Falls;  and  on  our  expressing  a  wish  to 
purchase  horses,  they  agreed  to  meet  us  the  next  day 
on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  where  they  would  open 
a  trade.  They  then  returned  to  their  villages  to  col- 
lect the  horses,  and  in  the  morning, 

"  April  16,  Captain  Clarke  crossed  with  nine  men, 
and  a  large  part  of  the  merchandise,  to  purchase,  if  it 
were  possible,  twelve  horses  to  transport  our  baggage, 
and  some  pounded  fish,  as  a  reserve  on  the  passage 
across  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  rest  of  the  men 
were  employed  in  hunting  and  preparing  saddles. 

"  From  the  Rapids  to  this  place,  and,  indeed,  as 
far  as  the  commencement  of  the  Narrows,  the  Colum- 
bia is  from  half  a  mile  to  three  quarters  in  width,  and 
possesses  scarcely  any  current :  its  bed  consists  princi- 
pally of  rock,  except  at  the  entrance  of  Labiche  River, 
which  takes  its  rise  in  Mount  Hood,  from  which,  like 
Quicksand  River,  it  brings  down  vast  quantities  of 
sand.  Along  the  whole  course  of  the  Columbia,  from 
the  Rapids  to  the  Chilluckittequaws,  the  trunks  of 
many  large  pine-trees  are  seen  standing  erect  in  water, 
which  was  now  thirty  feet  deep,  and  is  never  less  than 


VEGETATION  ALONG  THE  COLUMBIA     i& 

ten.  These  trees  could  never  have  grown  in  their  pres- 
ent state,  for  they  are  all  very  much  rotted,  and  none 
of  them  vegetate ;  so  that  the  only  reasonable  account 
which  can  be  given  of  this  phenomenon  is,  that  at  some 
period,  which  the  appearance  of  the  trees  induced  us 
to  fix  within  twenty  years,  the  rocks  from  the  hill  sides 
have  obstructed  the  narrow  pass  at  the  Rapids,  and 
caused  the  river  to  spread  through  the  woods.  The 
mountains  which  border  it  as  far  as  Sepulchre  Rock 
are  high  and  broken,  and  its  romantic  views  are  occa- 
sionally enlivened  by  beautiful  cascades  rushing  from 
the  heights,  and  forming  a  striking  contrast  with  the 
firs,  cedars,  and  pines  which  darken  their  sides.  From 
Sepulchre  Rock,  where  the  low  country  begins,  the 
long-leafed  pine  is  the  almost  exclusive  growth  of  tim- 
ber; but  our  camp  was  the  last  spot  where  a  single 
tree  is  to  be  seen  on  the  wide  plain,  spreading  beyond 
it  to  the  foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  This  plain  is, 
however,  covered  with  a  rich  verdure  of  grass  and 
herbs,  some  inches  in  height,  which  form  a  delightful 
and  exhilarating  prospect,  after  being  confined  to  the 
mountains  and  thick  forests  on  the  seacoast.  The  cli- 
mate, too,  though  we  were  only  on  the  border  of  th<? 
plain,  was  very  different  here  from  what  we  had  lately 
experienced :  the  air  was  drier  and  more  pure,  and  the 
ground  as  free  from  moisture  as  if  there  had  been  no 
rain  for  the  last  ten  days.  Around  this  place  were 
many  esculent  plants  used  by  the  Indians,  among 
which  was  a  currant  now  in  bloom,  with  a  yellow  blos- 
som, like  that  of  the  yellow  currant  of  the  Missouri, 
from  which,  however,  it  differs  specifically.  There 
was  also  a  species  of  hyacinth  growing  in  the  plains, 
which  presented  at  this  time  a  pretty  flower  of  a  pale 


20      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

blue  colour,  the  bulb  of  which  is  boiled,  or  baked,  or 
dried  in  the  sun,  and  eaten  by  the  Indians.  The  bulb 
of  the  present  year  was  white,  flat  in  shape,  and  not 
quite  solid :  it  overlaid  and  pressed  closely  that  of  the 
last  year,  which,  though  much  thinner  and  withered, 
was  equally  wide,  and  sent  forth  from  its  sides  a  num- 
ber of  small  radicles."  *  *  * 

"  Captain  Clarke,  meanwhile,  had  been  unsuccess- 
fully endeavouring  to  purchase  horses ;  but  the  Indians 
promised  to  trade  with  him  if  he  would  go  up  to  the 
Skilloot  village,  above  the  Long  Narrows.  He  there- 
fore sent  over  to  us  for  more  merchandise,  and  then 
accompanied  them  in  the  evening  to  that  place,  where 
he  passed  the  night. 

"  April  17.  Captain  Clarke  sent  to  inform  us  that 
he  was  still  unable  to  purchase  any  horses,  but  in- 
tended going  as  far  as  the  Eneeshur  village,  whence 
he  would  return  to  meet  us  the  next  day  at  the  Skil- 
loot village.  In  the  evening,  the  principal  chief  of 
the  Chilluckittequaws  came  to  see  us,  accompanied  by 
twelve  of  his  nation,  and,  hearing  that  we  wanted 
horses,  promised  to  meet  us  at  the  Narrows  with  some 
for  sale." 


CHAPTER  II. 


Captain  Clarke  procures  four  Horses  for  the  Transportation  of  the  Bag- 
gage.— Some  farther  Account  of  the  Skilloot  Tribe. — Their  Joy  at  the 
first  Appearance  of  Salmon  in  the  Columbia. — Their  thievish  Propen- 
sities.— The  Party  arrive  at  the  Village  of  the  Eneeshurs,  where  the 
Natives  are  found  alike  unfriendly. — The  Party  now  provided  with 
Horses. — -Prevented  from  the  Exercise  of  Hostility  against  this  nation 
by  a  friendly  Adjustment. — The  Scarcity  of  Timber  so  great  that  they 
are  compelled  to  buy  Wood  to  cook  their  Provisions. — Arrive  at  the 
Wahhowpum  Village. — Dance  of  the  Natives. — Having  obtained  their 
Complement  of  Horses,  the  Party  proceed  by  Land. — Arrive  at  the 
Pishquitpah  Village,  and  some  Account  of  that  People. — Frank  and 
hospitable  Conduct  of  the  Wollawollahs. — Their  Mode  of  Dancing 
described. — Their  Mode  of  making  Fish-wears. — Their  amiable  Char- 
acter. 


SETTING  out  early  on  the  morning  of  the  18th, 
at  the  distance  of  nine  miles  they  reached  the 
Skilloot  village,  at  the  foot  of  the  Long  Nar- 
rows.    Here  they  found  Captain  Clarke,  who  had  suc- 
ceeded in  purchasing  four  horses,  though  at  double  the 
price  that  had  been  paid  the  Shoshonees.     Owing  to 
the  great  quantity  of  water  in  the  river,  the  passage 
of  the   Long  Narrows  was  wholly   impracticable   for 
boats,  so  that  they  cut  up  their  two  pirogues  to  be 
used  for  fuel. 

"  April  19.  All  the  party,"  proceeds  the  Journal, 
"  were  employed  in  carrying  the  merchandise  over 
the  portage.  This  we  accomplished  with  the  aid  of 

21 


22      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

our  four  horses  by  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  when 
we  formed  our  camp  a  little  above  the  Skilloot  settle- 
ment. Since  we  left  them  in  the  autumn  they  had 
removed  their  village  a  few  hundred  yards  lower  down 
the  river,  and  exchanged  the  cellars  in  which  we  then 
found  them  for  more  pleasant  dwellings  on  the  surface 
of  the  ground.  These  were  formed  by  sticks  covered 
with  mats  and  straw,  and  so  large  that  each  was  the 
residence  of  several  families."  *  *  * 

:'  The  whole  village  was  filled  with  rejoicing  at 
having  caught  a  salmon,  which  was  considered  as  the 
harbinger  of  vast  quantities  that  would  arrive  in  a 
few  days.  In  the  belief  that  it  would  hasten  their  com- 
ing, the  Indians,  according  to  their  custom,  dressed 
the  fish  and  cut  it  into  small  pieces,  one  of  which  was 
given  to  each  child  in  the  village;  and  in  tke  good 
humour  excited  by  this  occurrence,  they  parted,  though 
reluctantly,  with  four  other  horses,  for  which  we  gave 
them  two  kettles,  reserving  only  a  single  small  one  for 
a  mess  of  eight  men.  Unluckily,  however,  we  lost  one 
of  the  horses  by  the  negligence  of  the  person  to  whose 
charge  he  was  committed/  *  *  * 

"  April  20.  As  it  was  so  much  for  our  interest  to 
preserve  the  good-will  of  these  people,  we  passed  over 
several  small,  thefts  which  they  had  committed;  but 
this  morning  we  learned  that  six  tomahawks  and  a 
knife  had  been  stolen  during  the  night.  We  addressed 
ourselves  to  the  chief,  who  seemed  angry  with  his  peo-; 
pie,  and  made  a  harangue  to  them,  but  we  did  not 
recover  the  articles,  and  soon  afterward  two  of  our 
spoons  were  missing.  We  therefore  ordered  them  all 
from  our  camp,  threatening  to  beat  severely  any  one 
detected  in  purloining.  This  harshness  irritated  them 


KNAVERY  OF  THE  INDIANS  23 

so  much  that  they  left  us  in  ill  humour,"  and  we  there- 
fore kept  on  our  guard  against  any  insult.  Besides 
this  knavery,  their  faithlessness  was  intolerable :  fre- 
quently, after  receiving  goods  in  exchange  for  a  horse, 
they  would  return  in  a  few  hours  and  insist  on  revok- 
ing the  bargain,  or  that  they  should  receive  some  addi- 
tional value.  We  discovered,  too,  that  the  horse 
missed  yesterday  had  been  gambled  away  by  the  fel- 
low from  whom  we  had  purchased  him  to  a  man  of  a 
different  nation,  who  had  carried  him  off.  We  suc- 
ceeded in  buying  two  more  horses,  two  dogs,  and 
some  chappelell,  and  also  exchanged  a  couple  of  elk- 
skins  for  a  gun  belonging  to  the  chief."  *  *  *  "  One 
of  the  canoes,  for  which  the  Indians  would  give  us  very 
little,  was  cut  up  for  fuel ;  two  others,  together  with 
some  elkskins  and  pieces  of  old  iron,  we  bartered  for 
beads,  and  the  remaining  two  small  ones  were  des- 
patched early  next  morning, 

"  April  21,  with  all  the  baggage  which  could  not  be 
carried  on  horseback.  We  had  intended  setting  out 
at  the  same  time,  but  one  of  our  horses  broke  loose 
during  the  night,  and  we  were  under  the  necessity  of 
sending  several  men  in  search  of  him.  In  the  mean- 
time, the  Indians,  who  were  always  on  the  alert,  stole 
a  tomahawk,  which  we  could  not  recover,  though  sev- 
eral of  them  were  searched;  and  another  fellow  was 
detected  in  carrying  off  a  piece  of  iron,  and  kicked  out 
of  camp ;  upon  which  Captain  Lewis,  addressing  them, 
told  them  he  was  not  afraid  to  fight  them,  for,  if  he 
choose,  he  could  easily  put  them  all  to  death,  and  burn 
their  village,  but  that  he  did  not  wish  to  treat  them  ill 
if  they  kept  from  stealing;  and  that,  although,  if  he 
could  discover  who  had  the  tomahawks,  he  would 

M.  of  H.— XXIX— 14 


24      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

take  away  their  horses,  yet  he  would  rather  lose  the 
property  altogether  than  take  the  horse  of  an  inno- 
cent man.  The  chiefs  were  present  at  this  harangue, 
hung  their  heads,  and  made  no  reply. 

"  At  ten  o'clock  the  men  returned  with  the  horse, 
and  soon  after  an  Indian,  who  had  promised  to  go  with 
us  as  far  as  the  Chopunnish,  came  with  two  horses, 
one  of  which  he  politely  offered  to  assist  in  carrying 
our  baggage.  We  therefore  loaded  nine  horses,  and, 
giving  the  tenth  to  Bratton,  who  was  still  too  sick  to 
walk,  at  about  ten  o'clock  left  the  village  of  these  dis- 
agreeable people.  At  one  o'clock  we  arrived  at  the 
village  of  the  Eneeshurs,  where  we  found  Captain 
Clarke,  who  had  been  altogether  unsuccessful  in  his 
attempts  to  purchase  horses,  the  Eneershurs  being 
quite  as  unfriendly  as  the  Skilloots.  Fortunately,  how- 
ever, the  fellow  who  had  sold  us  a  horse,  and  after- 
ward lost  him  in  gambling,  belonged  to  this  village, 
and  we  insisted  on  having  the  kettle  and  the  knife 
which  had  been  given  to  him  for  his  horse,  or  that  he 
should  furnish  us  with  one  of  equal  value.  He  pre- 
ferred the  latter,  and  brought  us  a  very  good  horse. 
Being  joined  here  by  the  canoes  and  baggage,  we 
halted  half  a  mile  above  the  town,  and  dined  on  the 
flesh  of  dogs,  after  which  we  proceeded  about  four 
miles  farther,  and  encamped  at  a  village  of  Eneeshurs, 
consisting  of  nine  mat  huts,  a  little  below  the  mouth 
of  the  Towahnahiooks.  We  obtained  from  these  peo- 
ple a  couple  of  dogs  and  a  small  quantity  of  fuel,  for 
which  we  were  obliged  to  give  a  higher  price  than 
usual.  We  also  bought  a  horse,  with  his  back  so  much 
injured  that  he  could  scarcely  be  of  much  service  to 
us;  but  the  price  was  only  some  trifling  articles,  which 


CHARACTER  OF  THE  ENEESHURS        25 

in  the  United  States  would  not  cost  above  a  dollar  and 
a  quarter.  The  dress,  manners,  and  language,  of  the 
Eneeshurs  differ  in  no  respect  from  those  of  the  Skil- 
loots.  Like  them,  too,  they  are  inhospitable  and  par- 
simonious, faithless  to  their  engagements,  and  in  the 
midst  of  poverty  and  filth  retained  a  degree  of  pride 
and  arrogance  which  rendered  our  numbers  our  only 
protection  against  insult,  pillage,  and  even  murder. 
We  were,  however,  assured  by  our  Chopunnish  guide, 
who  appeared  to  be  a  very  sincere,  honest  Indian,  that 
the  nations  above  would  treat  us  with  much  greater 
hospitality. 

tf  April  22.  Two  of  our  horses  broke  loose  in  the 
night,  and  strayed  to  some  distance,  so  that  we  were 
not  able  to  retake  them  and  begin  our  march  before 
seven  o'clock.  We  had  just  reached  the  top  of  a  hill 
near  the  village,  when  the  load  of  one  of  the  horses 
turned,  and  the  animal,  taking  fright  at  a  robe  which 
still  adhered  to  him,  ran  furiously  towards  the  village : 
just  as  he  came  there  the  robe  fell,  and  an  Indian  hid 
it  in  his  hut.  Two  men  went  back  after  the  horse, 
which  they  soon  caught,  but  the  robe  was  still  miss- 
ing, and  the  Indians  denied  having  seen  it.  These 
repeated  acts  of  knavery  had  quite  exhausted  our  pa- 
tience, and  Captain  Lewis  therefore  set  out  for  the  vil- 
lage, determined  to  make  them  deliver  up  the  robe,  or 
to  burn  their  houses  to  the  ground.  This  disagreeable 
retaliation  was,  however,  rendered  unnecessary,  for 
on  his  way  he  met  one  of  our  men,  who  had  found  the 
robe  in  one  of  the  huts,  hid  behind  some  baggage.  We 
resumed  our  route,  and  soon  after  halted  on  a  hill, 
from  the  top  of  which  we  had  a  commanding  view  of 
the  range  of  mountains  in  which  Mount  Hood  stands, 


26      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

and  which  continued  south  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach,  their  summits  being  covered  with  snow.  Mount 
Hood  itself  bore  south  30°  west,  and  the  snowy  sum- 
mit of  Mount  Jefferson  south  10°  west.  Towards  the 
south,  and  at  no  great  distance,  we  discerned  some 
woody  country,  and  opposite  to  this  point  of  view  is 
the  mouth  of  the  Towahnahiooks."  *  *  *  "  From 
this  place  we  proceeded  with  our  baggage  in  the  cen- 
tre, escorted  both  before  and  behind  by  such  of  the 
men  as  had  not  the  care  of  the  horses,  and,  having 
crossed  a  plain  eight  miles  in  extent,  reached  a  village 
of  the  Eneeshurs,  consisting  of  six  houses.  Here  we 
bought  some  dogs,  on  which  we  dined  near  the  village, 
and,  having  purchased  another  horse,  went  up  the 
river  four  miles  farther,  to  another  Eneeshur  village  of 
seven  mat  houses."  *  *  *  Being  informed  by  their 
guide  that  they  would  not  be  able  to  reach  the  next 
village  the  same  evening,  they  concluded  to  halt  where 
they  were.  Here  they  purchased  a  horse  and  some 
dogs ;  but  such  was  the  scarcity  of  fuel,  that  they  were 
obliged  to  buy  what  was  required  to  cook  their  supper. 
The  party  were  detained  for. a  considerable  time 
the  next  morning  in  consequence  of  two  of  their  horses 
having  strayed  during  the  night.  One  they  recovered, 
but  the  other  they  could  not  find,  and  were  obliged  to 
start  without  him.  "  After  marching  twelve  miles," 
says  the  Journal,  "  we  came  to  a  village  near  the  Rock 
Rapid,  at  the  mouth  of  a  large  creek  which  we  had 
not  observed  in  descending.  It  consisted  of  twelve 
temporary  huts  of  mats,  and  was  inhabited  by  a  tribe 
called  Wahhowpum,  who  speak  a  language  very  sim- 
ilar to  that  of  the  Chopunnish,  whom  they  resemble 
also  in  dress,  both  sexes  being  clad  in  robes  and  shirts, 


INTERVIEW  WITH  WAHHOWPUMS       27 

as  well  as  leggins  and  moccasins.  These  people 
seemed  much  pleased  to  see  us,  and  readily  gave  us 
four  dogs,  and  some  chappelell  and  wood,  in  exchange 
for  a  few  small  articles,  such  as  pewter  buttons,  strips 
of  tin,  iron,  and  brass,  and  some  twisted  wire,  which 
we  had  previously  prepared  for  our  journey  across  the 
plains.  They,  as  well  as  others  of  the  same  tribe,  liv- 
ing on  five  huts  a  little  below,  were  waiting  the  return 
of  the  salmon.  We  also  found  a  Chopunnish  returning 
home  with  his  family  and  a  dozen  young  horses,  some 
of  which  he  wanted  us  to  hire ;  but  this  we  declined,  as 
by  doing  so  we  should  be  obliged  to  maintain  him  and 
his  family  on  the  route.  After  arranging  our  camp, 
we  assembled  all  the  warriors,  and,  having  smoked 
with  them,  the  violins  were  produced,  and  some  of  the 
men  danced.  This  civility  was  returned  by  the  In- 
dians with  a  kind  of  dance  that  we  had  not  before 
seen.  The  spectators  formed  a  circle  about  the  dan- 
cers, who,  with  their  robes  drawn  tightly  round  the 
shoulders,  and  divided  into  parties  of  five  or  six  men, 
kept  crossing  in  a  line  from  one  side  of  the  circle  to 
the  other.  Both  the  performers  and  spectators  sang, 
and,  after  proceeding  in  this  way  for  some  time,  the 
latter  joined  in,  and  the  whole  concluded  with  a  pro- 
miscuous dance  and  song.  This  being  finished,  the 
natives  retired  at  our  request,  after  promising  to  bar- 
ter horses  with  us  in  the  morning.  The  river  was  by 
no  means  so  difficult  of  passage,  nor  obstructed  by  so 
many  rapids,  as  it  had  been  in  the  autumn,  the  water 
being  sufficiently  high  to  cover  the  rocks  in  its  bed. 

"  April  24.  We  began  early  to  look  for  our  horses, 
but  they  were  not  collected  before  one  o'clock.  In  the 
mean  time  we  prepared  saddles  for  three  new  horses 


28      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

which  we  had  purchased  from  the  Wahhowpums,  and 
agreed  to  hire  three  more  from  the  Chopunnish  Indian, 
who  was  to  accompany  us  with  his  family.  The  na- 
tives had  also  promised  to  take  our  canoes  in  exchange 
for  horses ;  but,  when  they  found  that  we  were  re- 
solved on  travelling  by  land,  they  refused  giving  us 
anything,  in  hopes  that  we  would  be  forced  to  leave 
them.  Disgusted  at  this  conduct,  we  determined 
rather  to  cut  them  m  pieces  than  suffer  these  people 
to  possess  them,  and  actually  began  to  split  them  up, 
when  they  consented  to  give  us  several  strands  of 
beads  for  each  canoe.  We  had  now  a  sufficient  num- 
ber of  horses  to  carry  our  baggage,  and  therefore  pro- 
ceeded wholly  by  land.  At  two  o'clock  we  set  out, 
and,  passing  between  the  hills  and  the  northern  shore 
of  the  river,  had  a  difficult  and  fatiguing  march  over 
a  road  alternately  sandy  and  rocky.  At  the  distance 
of  four  miles  we  came  to  four  huts  of  the  Meteowwee 
tribe;  two  miles  farther,  to  the  same  number  of 
huts ;  and  after  making  twelve  miles  from  our  last 
night's  camp,  we  halted  at  a  larger  village  of  five  huts 
of  Meteowwees."  *  *  * 

As  they  had  passed  along  they  met  several  parties 
of  the  natives,  who  were  distant  and  reserved,  and, 
though  respectful,  would  hold  no  conversation  with 
them.  They  found  the  nights  cold,  though  it  was 
warm  in  the  day,  and  what  rendered  them  exceedingly 
uncomfortable  was  the  scarcity  of  wood. 

"  April  25.  We  collected  our  horses,"  continues 
the  Journal,  "  and  proceeded  eleven  miles  to  a  large 
village  of  fifty-one  mat  houses,  where  we  purchased 
some  wood  and  a  few  dogs,  on  which  we  made  our 
dinner.  This  village  contained  about  seven  hundred 


ACCOUNT  OF  PISHQUITPAHS  29 

persons,  of  a  tribe  called  Pishquitpah,  whose  residence 
on  the  river  is  only  during  the .  spring  and  summer, 
the  autumn  and  winter  being  passed  in  hunting 
through  the  plains  and  along  the  borders  of  the  moun- 
tains. The  greater  part  of  them  had  been  at  a  distance 
from  the  river  when  we  descended,  and  never  having 
seen  white  men  before,  they  flocked  roand  us  in  great 
numbers  ;  but,  although  they  were  exceedingly  curious, 
they  treated  us  with  much  respect,  uncf  were  very 
urgent  that  we  should  spend  the  night  with  them. 
Two  principal  chiefs  were  pointed  out  by  our  Chopun- 
nish  companion,  and  being  acknowledged  as  such  by 
the  tribe,  we  invested  each  of  them  with  a  small  medal. 
We  were  also  very  desirous  of  purchasing  more 
horses :  but  as  our  stock  of  merchandise  consisted  of 
little  more  than  a  dirk,  a  sword,  and  a  few  old  clothes, 
the  Indians  could  not  be  induced  to  traffic  with  us. 
The  Pishquitpahs  are  generally  of  good  stature  and 
proportions,  and  as  the  heads  neither  of  the  males  nor 
females  are  so  much  flattened  as  those  of  the  natives 
lower  down,  their  features  are  rather  pleasant.  Their 
hair  is  braided  in  the  manner  practised  by  their  west- 
ern neighbours;  but  the  generality  of  the  men  are 
dressed  in  a  large  robe,  under  which  is  a  shirt  reach- 
ing to  their  knees,  where  it  is  met  by  long  leggins, 
and  the  feet  are  covered  with  moccasins :  some,  how- 
ever, wear  only  the  truss  and  robe.  As  they  unite  the 
occupations  of  hunting  and  fishing,  both  sexes  ride 
very  dexterously ;  their  caparison  being  a  saddle  or 
pad  of  dressed  skin,  stuffed  with  goat's  hair,  from 
which  wooden  stirrups  are  suspended,  and  a  hair  rope 
is  tied  at  both  ends  to  the  under  jaw  of  the  animal. 


so     -LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

The  horses,  however,  though  good,  suffer  much,  as 
jlo,  in  fact,  all  the  Indian  horses,  from  sore  backs. 

"  Finding  them  not  disposed  to  barter  with  us,  we 
left  the  Pishquitpahs  at  four  o'clock,  accompanied 
by  eighteen  or  twenty  of  their  young  men  on  horse- 
back. At  the  distance  of  four  miles  we  passed,  with- 
out halting,  five  houses  belonging  to  the  Wollawol- 
lahs ;  and  five  miles  farther,  observing  as  many  wil- 
lows as  would  enable  us  to  make  fires,  we  availed  our- 
selves of  the  circumstance,  and  encamped  near  them. 

"  The  country  through  which  we  passed  resembled 
that  of  yesterday.  The  hills  on  both  sides  of  the  river 
are  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  generally 
abrupt  and  craggy,  and  in  many  places  presenting  a 
perpendicular  face  of  black,  solid  rock.  From  the  top 
of  these  hills  the  country  extends  itself  in  level  plains 
to  a  very  great  distance,  and  though  not  so  fertile  as 
the  land  near  the  Falls,  produces  an  abundant  supply 
of  low  grass,  which  is  an  excellent  food  for  horses. 
This  grass  must,  indeed,  be  unusually  nutritious,  for 
even  at  this  season  of  the  year,  after  wintering  on  the 
dry  grass  of  the  plains,  and  being  used  with  greater 
severity  than  is  usual  among  the  whites,  many  of  the 
horses  were  perfectly  fat,  nor  had  we  seen  a  single  one 
that  was  really  poor.  In  the  course  of  the  day  we 
killed  several  rattlesnakes,  like  those  of  the  United 
States,  and  saw  many  of  the  common  as  well  as  the 
horned  lizard."  *  *  * 

As  they  advanced  the  next  day  the  hills  became 
low,  and  left  an  extensive  plain  on  each  side  of  the 
river.  Having  proceeded  thirty-one  miles,  they  halted 
for  the  night  not  far  from  some  houses  of  the  Wolla- 
wollahs.  On  the  27th  they  found  the  abrupt,  rocky  | 


RECEPTION  BY  WOLLAWOLLAHS         31 

hills  again  approaching  the  river;  and,  after  a  march 
of  twenty-four  miles,  they  halted  for  dinner.  "  Soon 
after  stopping,"  says  the  Journal,  "  we  were  joined  by 
seven  Wollawollahs,  among  whom  we  recognized  a 
chief  by  the  name  of  Yellept,  who  had  visited  us  on 
the  19th  of  October,  when  we  gave  him  a  medal,  with 
the  promise  of  a  larger  one  on  our  return.  He  ap- 
peared very  much  pleased  at  seeing  us  again,  and  in- 
vited us  to  remain  at  his  village  three  or  four  days, 
during  which  he  would  supply  us  with  the  only  food 
they  had,  and  furnish  us  with  horses  for  our  journey. 
After  the  cold,  inhospitable  treatment  we  had  lately 
received,  this  kind  offer  was  peculiarly  acceptable : 
and,  having  made  a  hasty  meal,  we  accompanied  him 
to  his  village,  six  miles  above,  situated  on  the  edge 
of  the  low  country,  and  about  twelve  miles  below  the 
mouth  of  Lewis's  River.  Immediately  on  our  arrival, 
Yellept,  who  proved  to  be  a  man  of  much  influence, 
not  only  in  his  own,  but  among  the  neighbouring  na- 
tions, collected  the  inhabitants,  and,  after  having  made 
an  harangue  to  them,  the  purport  of  which  was  to 
induce  them  to  treat  us  hospitably,  set  them  an  exam- 
ple by  bringing  himself  an  armful  of  wood,  and  a  plat- 
ter containing  three  roasted  mullets.  They  immedi- 
ately complied  with  one  part,  at  least,  of  the  recom- 
mendation, by  furnishing  us  with  an  abundance  of  the 
only  sort  of  fuel  they  use,  the  stems  of  shrubs  grow- 
ing in  the  plains.  We  then  purchased  four  dogs,  on 
which  we  supped  heartily,  having  been  on  short  allow- 
ance for  two  days  previously.  When  we  were  dis- 
posed to  sleep,  the  Indians  retired  immediately  on 
our  requesting  them  to  do  so,  and,  indeed,  uniform^ 
conducted  themselves  with  great  propriety.  These 


32      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

people  live  mostly  on  roots,  which  are  very  abundant 
in  the  plains,  and  catch  a  few  salmon-trout ;  but  they 
then  seemed  to  be  subsisting  chiefly  on  a  species  of 
mullet,  weighing  from  one  to  three  pounds.  They  in- 
formed us  that  opposite  to  their  village  there  was  a 
route  which  led  to  the  mouth  of  the  Kooskooskee,  on 
the  south  side  of  Lewis's  River ;  that  the  road  itself 
was  good,  and  passed  over  a  level  country  well  sup- 
plied with  water  and  grass ;  and  that  we  should  meet 
with  plenty  of  deer  and  antelope.  We  knew  that  a 
road  in  that  direction  would  shorten  the  distance  at 
least  eighty  miles ;  and  as  the  report  of  our  guide  was 
confirmed  by  Yellept  and  other  Indians,  we  did  not 
hesitate  to  adopt  this  route :  they  added,  however,  that 
there  were  no  houses,  nor  permanent  Indian  resi- 
dences on  the  road,  and  that  it  would  therefore  be  pru- 
dent not  to  trust  wholly  to  our  guns,  but  to  lay  in  a 
stock  of  provisions. 

"  April  28.  Taking  their  advice,  therefore,  we  this 
morning  purchased  ten  dogs.  While  the  trade  for 
these  was  being  conducted  by  our  men,  Yellept 
brought  a  fine  white  horse,  and  presented  him  to  Cap- 
tain Clarke,  expressing  at  the  same  time  a  wish  to 
have  a  kettle;  but,  on  being  informed  that  we  had 
already  disposed  of  the  last  kettle  we  could  spare,  he 
said  he  would  be  content  with  any  present  we  chose 
to  make  him  in  return.  Captain  Clarke  thereupon  gave 
him  his  sword,  for  which  the  chief  had  before  ex- 
pressed a  desire,  adding  one  hundred  balls,  some  pow- 
der, and  other  small  articles,  with  which  he  appeared 
perfectly  satisfied.  We  were  now  anxious  to  depart, 
and  requested  Yellept  to  lend  us  canoes  for  the  pur- 
pose of  crossing  the  river;  but  he  would  not  listen  to 


GIVING  MEDICINE  TO  THE  INDIANS      33 

any  proposal  of  the  kind.  He  wished  us  to  remain  for 
two  or  three  days ;  but,  at  all  events,  would  not  con- 
sent to  our  going  to-day,  for  he  had  already  sent  to 
invite  his  neighbours,  the  Chimnapoos,  to  come  down 
in  the  evening  and  join  his  people  in  a  dance  for  our 
amusement.  We  urged  in  vain  that  by  setting  out 
sooner  we  should  the  earlier  return  with  the  articles 
they  desired:  a  day,  he  observed,  would  make  but  lit- 
tle difference.  We  at  length  suggested  that,  as  there 
was  then  no  wind,  it  was  the  best  time  to  cross  the 
river,  and  that  we  would  merely  take  the  horses  over, 
and  return  to  sleep  at  their  village.  To  this  he  as- 
sented ;  and  we  then  crossed  with  the  horses,  and,  hav- 
ing hoppled  them,  came  back  to  their  camp.  Fortu- 
nately there  was  among  these  Wallawollahs  a  pris- 
oner belonging  to  a  tribe  of  the  Shoshonee  or  Snake 
Indians,  residing  to  the  south  of  the  Multnomah,  and 
visiting  occasionally  the  heads  of  Wollawollah  Creek. 
Our  Shoshonee  woman,  Sacajaweah,  though  she  be- 
longed to  a  tribe  near  the  Missouri,  spoke  the  same 
language  as  this  prisoner;  and  by  their  means  we 
were  able  to  explain  ourselves  to  the  Indians,  and 
answer  all  their  inquiries  with  respect  to  ourselves  and 
object  of  our  journey.  Our  conversation  inspired 
them  with  much  confidence,  and  they  soon  brought 
several  sick  persons,  for  whom  they  requested  our  as- 
sistance. We  splintered  the  broken  arm  of  one,  gave 
some  relief  to  another  whose  knee  was  contracted  by 
rheumatism,  and  administered  what  we  thought  would 
be  beneficial  for  ulcers,  and  eruptions  of  the  skin  on 
various  parts  of  the  body,  which  are  very  common  dis- 
orders among  them.  'But  our  most  valuable  medicine 
was  eye-water,  which  we  distributed,  and  which,  in- 


34      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

deed,  they  very  much  required;  for  the  complaints  of 
the  eyes,  occasioned  by  living  so  much  on  the  water, 
and  aggravated  by  the  fine  sand  of  the  plains,  were 
universal  among  them. 

"  A  little  before  sunset  the  Chimnapoos,  amount- 
ing to  one  hundred  men  and  a  few  women,  came  to 
the  village,  and,  joining  the  Wollawollahs,  who  were 
about  the  same  number  of  men,  formed  themselves  in 
a  circle  round  our  camp,  and  waited  very  patiently 
till  our  men  were  disposed  to  dance,  which  they  did 
for  about  an  hour,  to  the  music  of  the  violin.  They 
then  requested  the  Indians  to  dance.  With  this  they 
readily  complied ;  and  the  whole  assemblage,  amount- 
ing, with  the  women  and  children  of  the  village,  to 
several  hundred,  stood  up,  and  sang  and  danced  at  the 
same  time.  The  exercise  was  not,  indeed,  very  violent 
nor  very  graceful;  for  the  greater  part  of  them  were 
formed  into  a  solid  column,  round  a  kind  of  hollow 
square,  stood  on  the  same  place,  and  merely  jumped 
up  at  intervals,  to  keep  time  to  the  music.  Some,  how- 
ever, of  the  more  active  warriors  entered  the  square 
and  danced  round  it  sideways,  and  some  of  our  men 
joined  in  witti  them,  to  the  great  satisfaction  of  the 
Indians.  The  dance  continued  till  ten  o'clock.  The 
next  morning, 

"  April  29,  Yellept  supplied  us  with  two  canoes, 
in  which  we  crossed  with  all  our  baggage  by  eleven 
o'clock ;  but  the  horses  having  strayed  to  some  dis- 
tance, we  could  not  collect  them  in  time  to  reach  any 
suitable  place  for  encamping  if  we  should  then  begin 
our  journey,  as  night  would  overtake  us  before  we 
came  to  any  water.  We  therefore  thought  it  advis- 
able to  encamp  about  a  mile  from  the  Columbia,  at  the 


THE  WOLLAWOLLAH  RIVER  35 

mouth  of  the  Wollawollah  River.  This  is  a  handsome 
stream,  about  fifty  yards  wide,  and  four  and  a  half 
feet  in  depth.  Its  waters,  which  are  clear,  roll  over  a 
bed  composed  principally  of  gravel,  intermixed  with 
some  sand  and  mud;  and,  though  the  banks  are  low, 
they  do  not  seem  to  be  overflowed.  It  empties  into 
the  Columbia  about  twelve  or  fifteen  miles  from  the 
entrance  of  Lewis's  River,  and  just  above  a  range  of 
high  hills  crossing  the  former.  Its  sources,  like  those 
of  the  Towahnahiooks,  Lapage,  Youmalolam,  and 
Wollawollah,  are,  as  the  Indians  informed  us,  on  the 
north  side  of  a  range  of  mountains  which  we  saw  to 
the  east  and  southeast,  and  which,  commencing  to  the 
south  of  Mount  Hood,  stretch  in  a  northeasterly  direc- 
tion to  the  neighbourhood  of  a  southern  branch  of 
Lewis's  River,  at  some  distance  from  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains. Two  principal  branches,  however,  of  the  Tow- 
ahnahiooks, take  their  rise  in  Mount  Jefferson  and 
Mount  Hood,  which  in  fact  appear  to  separate  the 
waters  of  the  Mujtnomah  and  Columbia.  They  were 
about  sixty-five  or  seventy  miles  from  this  place,  and, 
although  covered  with  snow,  did  not  seem  high.  To 
the  south  of  these  mountains,  the  Indian  prisoner  said 
there  was  a  river  running  towards  the  northwest,  as 
wide  as  the  Columbia  at  this  place,  which  was  nearly 
a  mile.  This  account  might  be  exaggerated,  but  it 
served  to  show  that  the  Multnomah  was  a  very  large 
river,  and  that,  with  the  assistance  of  a  southeastern 
branch  of  Lewis's  River,  passing  round  the  eastern 
extremity  of  the  chain  of  mountains  in  which  Mounts 
Hood  and  Jefferson  are  so  conspicuous,  it  might  water 
the  vast  tract  of  country  to  the  south,  till  its  remote 


36      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

sources  approached  those  of  the  Missouri  and  the  Rio 
del  Norte. 

"  Near  our  camp  was  a  fish-wear,  formed  of  two 
curtains  of  small  willow  switches,  matted  together 
with  withes  of  the  same  plant,  and  extending  across 
the  river  in  two  parallel  lines,  six  feet  asunder.  These 
were  supported  by  several  parcels  of  poles,  in  the 
manner  already  described  as  in  use  among  the  Sho- 
shonees,  and  were  rolled  up  or  let  down  at  pleasure  for 
a  few  feet,  so  as  either  to  let  the  fish  pass  or  to  detain 
them.  A  seine  of  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  feet  in 
length  is  dragged  down  the  river  by  two  persons,  and 
the  bottom  drawn  up  against  the  curtain  of  willows. 
They  also  employ  a  smaller  seine,  like  a  scoop-net, 
one  side  of  which  is  confined  to  a  semicircular  bow 
five  feet  long,  and  half  the  size  of  a  man's  arm,  and 
the  other  side  held  by  a  strong  rope,  which,  being  tied 
at  both  ends  to  the  bow,  forms  the  chord  to  the  semi- 
circle :  this  is  used  by  one  person.  But  the  only  fish 
they  could  take  at  this  time  were  mullet  of  from  four 
to  five  pounds  in  weight,  and  which  formed  the  chief 
subsistence  of  a  village  of  twelve  houses  of  Wolla- 
wollahs,  a  little  below  us  on  the  Columbia,  as  well  as 
of  others  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  In  the 
course  of  the  day  we  gave  small  medals  to  two  in- 
ferior chiefs,  each  of  whom  made  us  a  present  of  a  fine 
horse.  We  were  in  a  poor  condition  to  make  an  ade- 
quate acknowledgement  for  this  kindness,  but  gave 
them  several  articles,  among  which  was  a  pistol,  with 
some  hundred  rounds  of  ammunition.  We  had,  indeed, 
been  treated  by  these  people  with  an  unusual  degree 
of  kindness  and  civility.  They  seemed  to  have  been 
successful  in  their  hunting  during  the  last  winter,  for 


THE  JOURNEY  CONTINUED  37 

all  of  them,  but  particularly  the  women,  were  much 
better  clad  than  when  we  had  seen  them  before;  both 
sexes  among  the  Wollawollahs,  as  well  as  the  Chimna- 
poos,  being  provided  with  good  robes,  moccasins,  long1 
shirts,  and  leggins.  Their  ornaments  were  similar  to 
those  used  below,  the  hair  being  cut  on  the  forehead, 
and  queues  falling  over  the  shoulders  in  front  of  the 
body:  some  have  small  plaits  at  the  earlocks,  and 
others  tie  a  bundle  of  the  docked  foretop  in  front  of 
the  forehead."  *  *  * 

"  April  30.  We  had  now  twenty-three  horses, 
many  of  them  young  and  excellent  animals,  but  the 
greater  part  had  sore  backs.  The  Indians  are  gener- 
ally cruel  masters :  they  ride  very  hard,  and  their  sad- 
dles being  so  badly  constructed  that  it  is  almost  im- 
possible to  avoid  wounding  the  animal,  they  will  con- 
tinue to  ride  the  poor  creatures  after  their  backs  are 
scarified  in  the  most  shocking  manner.  At  eleven 
o'clock  we  left  these  honest,  worthy  people,  accom- 
panied by  our  guide  and  the  Chopunnish  family,  and 
directed  our  course  north  50°  east,  across  an  open, 
level  sandy  plain,  unbroken  except  by  large  banks 
of  pure  sand,  which  had  drifted  in  many  parts  to 
the  height  of  fifteen  or  twenty  feet.  The  rest  of  the 
plain  is  poor  in  point  of  soil,  but  throughout  there  is 
generally  a  short  grass  interspersed  with  aromatic 
shrubs,  and  a  number  of  plants,  the  roots  of  which 
supply  the  principal  food  of  the  natives.  Among  these 
we  observed  a  root  something  like  the  sweet  potato. 
At  the  distance  of  fourteen  miles  we  reached  a  branch 
of  Wollawollah  River,  rising  in  the  same  range  of 
mountains,  and  emptying  itself  six  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  the  latter.  It  is  a  bold,  deep  stream,  about 


38      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

ten  yards  wide,  and  seems  to  be  navigable  for  canoes. 
The  hills  along  this  creek  are  generally  abrupt  and 
rocky,  but  the  narrow  bottom  is  very  fertile,  and  both 
possess  twenty  times  as  much  timber  as  the  Columbia 
itself:  indeed,  we  now  find,  for  the  first  time  since 
leaving  Rock  Fort,  an  abundance  of  firewood.  The 
growth  consists  of  cottonwood,  birch,  the  crimson 
haw,  red  and  sweet  willow,  chokecherry,  yellow  cur- 
rants, gooseberry,  the  honeysuckle  with  a  white  berry, 
rosebushes,  sevenbark,  and  sumach,  together  with 
some  corn-grass  and  rushes.  The  advantage  of  a  com- 
fortable fire  induced  us,  as  it  was  already  night,  to 
halt  at  this  place. 

"  We  were  soon  supplied  by  Drewyer  with  a  bea- 
ver and  an  otter,  of  which  we  took  only  a  part  of  the 
former,  and  gave  the  rest  to  the  Indians.  The  otter 
is  with  them  a  favourite  food,  though  much  inferior, 
at  least  in  our  estimation,  to  the  dog,  which  they  will 
not  eat.  The  flesh  of  the  horse,  too,  is  seldom  eaten, 
and  never  except  when  absolutely  necessity  compels 
them  to  eat  it,  as  the  only  alternative  to  save  them 
from  dying  with  hunger.  This  fastidiousness  does 
not  seem,  however,  to  proceed  so  much  from  any  dis- 
like to  the  food  as  from  attachment  to  the  animal  itself, 
for  many  of  them  ate  very  heartily  of  the  horseflesh 
which  we  gave  them."  *  *  * 

After  they  had  proceeded  nine  miles  the  next  day, 
their  Chopunnish  Indian  left  them,  taking  an  old,  un- 
beaten road  which  led  to  the  left.  "  At  the  distance  of 
three  miles  farther,"  continues  the  Journal,  "  the  hills 
on  the  north  side  became  lower,  and  the  bottoms  of 
the  creek  widened  into  a  pleasant  country,  two  or 
three  miles  in  extent.  The  timber,  too,  was  now  more 


Tur 


HONESTY  OF  THE  WOLLAWOLLAHS     39 

abundant,  and  our  guide  told  us  that  we  should  not 
want  either  wood  or  game  from  this  place  as  far  as  the 
Kooskooskee.  We  had  already  seen  several  deer,  of 
which  we  killed  one,  and  observed  great  numbers  of 
curlew,  as  well  as  some  cranes,  ducks,  prairie  larks, 
and  several  species  of  the  sparrow  common  to  the 
prairies.  There  is,  in  fact,  very  little  difference  in 
the  general  face  of  the  country  here  from  that  of  the 
Dlains  on  the  Missouri,  except  that  the  latter  are  en- 
livened by  vast  herds  of  buffalo,  elk,  and  other  animals, 
which  give  it  an  additional  interest.  Over  these  wide 
bottoms  we  continued  on  a  course  north  75°  east,  till, 
it  the  distance  of  seventeen  miles  from  where  we  had 
dined,  and  twenty-six  from  our  last  encampment,  we 
halted  for  the  night.  We  had  scarcely  encamped 
vhen  three  young  men  came  up  from  the  Wolla- 
•vollah  village,  with  a  steel-trap  which  had  inadver- 
tently been  left  behind,  and  which  they  had  come  a 
whole  day's  journey  in  order  to  restore.  This  act  of 
integrity  was  the  more  pleasing,  because,  though  very 
rare  among  Indians,  it  corresponded  perfectly  with 
the  general  behaviour  of  the  Wollawollahs,  among 
whom  we  had  lost  carelessly  several  knives,  which 
were  always  returned  as  soon  as  found.  We  may, 
indeed,  justly  affirm,  that  of  all  the  Indians  whom 
we  had  met  since  leaving  the  United  States,  the  Wolla- 
wollahs were  the  most  hospitable,  honest,  and  sin- 
cere." 

M.  ot  H.— XXIX— 15 


CHAPTER  III. 


The  Party  pursue  their  Route  towards  the  Kooskooskee. — They  reach  the 
Kinnooenim  Creek. — Meet  with  an  old  Acquaintance,  called  the  Big- 
horn Indian. — Arrive  at  the  Mouth  of  the  Kooskooskee. — Difficulty  of 
purchasing  Provisions  from  the  Natives,  and  new  Device  of  the  Party 
to  obtain  them. — Chopunnish  Style  of  Architecture. — Captain  Clarke 
turns  Physician,  and  performs  several  Experiments  upon  the  Natives 
with  Success. — Instance  of  their  Honesty. — Distress  of  the  Indians  for 
want  of  Provisions  during  the  Winter. — The  Party  finally  meet  Twisted 
Hair,  to  whom  their  Horses  had  been  intrusted  on  their  Journey 
down. — Quarrel  between  that  Chief  and  another  of  his  Nation,  in 
regard  to  his  Horses. — Causes  of  the  Controversy  stated  at  large. — 
The  two  Chiefs  reconciled  by  the  Interference  of  the  Party,  and  the 
Horses  restored. — Extraordinary  Instance  of  Indian  Hospitality  to- 
wards Strangers. — Council  held  with  the  Chopunnish,  and  the  Object 
of  the  Expedition  explained. — The  Party  perform  other  medical  Cures. 
— Answer  of  the  Chopunnish  to  the  Speech  delivered  at  the  Council, 
ratified  by  a  singular  Ceremony. — They  promise  faithfully  to  follow 
the  Advice  of  their  Visitors. 

THEY  followed  the  course  of  the  creek  the  next 
day,  and,  after  travelling  nineteen  miles,  en- 
camped   for    the    night.      The    mountains    to 
the   southwest,  at  the   distance   of  twenty-five   miles, 
though  not  appearing  to  be  very  high,  were  still  cov- 
ered with  snow.     Pursuing  a  course   north   25°   east 
on  the  morning  of  the  3d,  at  the  distance  of  twelve 
miles  they  reached  the  Kinnooenim  Creek ;  and  three 
miles  beyond  this,  in  a  northeasterly  direction,  they 
came  to  a  branch  of  this  creek,  which  they  followed 

40 


for  eleven 


MEETING  WITH  BIGHORN  41 

eleven  miles,  and  "  at  that  distance,"  says  the 
Journal,  we  were  agreeably  surprised  by  the  appear- 
ance of  Weahkoonut,  or  the  Indian  whom  we  had 
called  The  Bighorn,  from  the  circumstance  of  his 
wearing  a  horn  of  that  animal  suspended  from  his 
left  arm.  He  had  gone  down  with  us  last  year  along 
Lewis's  River,  and  was  highly  serviceable  in  preparing 
the  minds  of  the  natives  for  our  reception.  He  was, 
moreover,  the  first  chief  of  a  large  band  of  Chopun- 
nish;  and,  hearing  that  we  were  on  our  return,  he 
had  come  with  ten  of  his  warriors  to  meet  us.  He 
now  turned  back  with  us,  and  we  continued  up  the 
bottoms  of  the  creek  for  two  miles,  till  the  road  be- 
gan to  leave  it,  and  to  cross  the  hills  towards  the 
plains.  We  therefore  encamped  for  the  night  in  a 
grove  of  cottonwood,  after  we  had  made  a  disagree- 
able journe^-  of  twenty-eight  miles.  During  the  greater 
part  of  the  day  the  air  had  been  keen  and  cold,  and 
it  alternately  rained,  hailed,  and  snowed;  but,  though 
the  wind  blew  with  great  violence ;  it  was  fortunately 
from  the  southwest,  and  on  our  backs.  We  had  con- 
sumed at  dinner  the  last  of  our  dried  meat,  and  nearly 
all  that  was  left  of  the  dogs;  so  that  we  supped  very 
scantily  on  the  remainder,  and  had  nothing  for  the 
next  day.  Weahkoonut,  however,  assured  us  that 
there  was  a  house  on  the  river  at  no  great  distance, 
where  we  could  supply  ourselves  with  provisions.  We 
now  missed  our  guide  and  the  Wollawollahs,  who  had 
left  us  abruptly  in  the  morning,  and  never  returned. 

"  May  4.  We  were  now  nearer  to  the  southwest 
mountains,  which  appeared  to  become  lower  as  they 
advanced  towards  the  northeast.  We  followed  the 
road  over  the  plains,  north  60°  east,  for  four  miles 


42      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

to  a  ravine,  where  was  the  source  of  a  small  creek, 
down  the  hilly  and  rocky  sides  of  which  we  proceeded 
for  eight  miles  to  its  entrance  into  Lewis's  River  about 
seven  miles  and  a  half  above  the  mouth  of  the  Koos- 
kooskee.  Near  this  place  we  found  the  house  which 
Weahkoonut  had  mentioned,  and  where  we  now 
halted  for  breakfast.  It  contained  six  families,  but 
so  miserably  poor  that  all  we  could  obtain  from  them 
were  two  lean  dogs  and  a  few  large  cakes  of  half- 
prepared  bread,  made  of  a  root  resembling  the  sweet 
potato,  of  all  which  we  contrived  to  form  a  kind  of 
soup.  The  soil  of  the  plain  is  good,  tut  it  has  no 
timber.  The  range  of  southwestern  mountains  was 
about  fifteen  miles  above  us,  but  continued  to  become 
lower,  and  was  still  covered  with  snow  to  its  base. 
After  giving  a  passage  to  Lewis's  River  near  their 
northeastern  extremity,  they  terminate  in  a  high  level 
plain  between  that  river  and  the  Kooskooskee.  The 
salmon  not  having  yet  called  them  to  the  rivers,  the 
greater  part  of  the  Chopunnish  were  still  dispersed 
in  the  villages  through  this  plain,  for  the  purpose  of 
collecting  quamask  and  cow-weed,  which  grow  here 
in  great  abundance,  the  soil  being  extremely  fertile, 
and  in  many  places  covered  with  the  long-leafed  pine, 
the  latch,  and  balsam-fir,  which  contribute  to  render 
it  less  dry  than  the  open,  unsheltered  plains.  After 
our  repast  we  continued  our  route  along  the  west  side 
of  the  river,  where,  as  well  as  on  the  opposite  shore, 
the  high  hills  approached  it  closely,  till,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  three  miles,  we  halted  near  two  houses.  The 
inmates  consisted  of  five  families  of  Chopunnish, 
among  whom  were  Tetoh  or  Sky,  the  younger  of  the 
two  chiefs  who  accompanied  us  in  the  autumn  to 


ARRIVAL  AT  A  CHOPUNNISH  VILLAGE     43 

the  Great  Falls  of  the  Columbia,  and  also  our  old 
pilot  who  had  conducted  us  down  to  that  river.  They 
both  advised  us  to  cross  here,  and  ascend  the  Koos- 
kooskee  on  the  northeast  side,  this  being  the  shortest 
and  best  route  to  the  forks  of  that  river,  where  we 
should  find  Twisted  Hair,  in  whose  charge  we  had 
left  our  horses,  and  to  which  place  they  promised  to 
show  us  the  way.  We  did  not  hestitate  to  accept  their 
offer,  and  crossed  over  with  the  assistance  of  three 
canoes ;  but,  as  the  night  was  coming  on,  we  purchased 
a  little  wood  and  some  roots  of  cow-weed,  and  en- 
camped, though  we  had  made  only  fifteen  miles  during 
the  day.  The  evening  proved  cold  and  disagree- 
able, and  the  natives  crowded  round  our  fire  in  such 
numbers  that  we  could  scarcely  cook  or  keep  our- 
selves warm."  *  *  * 

"  May  5.  We  collected  our  horses,  and  at  seven 
o'clock  set  forward  alone;  for  Weahkoonut,  whose 
people  resided  above  on  the  west  side  of  Lewis's 
River,  resumed  his  route  homeward  when  we  crossed 
to  the  huts.  Our  road  was  over  the  plains  for  four 
and  a  half  miles  to  the  entrance  of  the  Kooskooskee. 
We  then  proceeded  up  that  river,  and  at  five  miles 
reached  a  large  mat  house,  but  could  not  procure  any 
provisions  from  the  inhabitants;  however,  on  reaching 
another  three  miles  beyond,  we  were  surprised  at 
the  liberality  of  an  Indian,  who  presented  to  Captain 
Oarke  a  very  fine  gray  mare,  for  which  all  he  re- 
quested was  a  vial  of  eyewater.  Last  autumn,  while 
we  were  encamped  at  the  mouth  of  the  Chopunnish 
River,  a  man  who  complained  of  a  pain  in  his  knee  and 
thigh  was  brought  to  us,  in  hopes  of  receiving  some 
relief.  To  appearance  he  had  recovered  from  his  dis- 


44      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

order,  though  he  had  not  walked  for  some  time ;  but, 
that  we  might  not  disappoint  them,  Captain  Clarke 
with  much  ceremony,  washed  and  rubbed  his  sore 
limb,  and  gave  him  some  volatile  liniment  to  continue 
the  operation,  which  caused,  or,  more  properly,  per- 
haps, did  not  prevent,  his  complete  cure.  The  man 
gratefully  circulated  our  praises,  and  our  fame  as 
physicians  was  farther  increased  by  the  efficacy  of 
some  eye-water  which  we  had  given  them  at  the  same 
time.  We  were  by  no  means  dissatisfied  at  this  new 
resource  for  obtaining  subsistence,  as  the  Indian  would 
give  us  no  provisions  without  merchandise,  and  our 
stock  was  now  very  much  reduced.  We  cautiously 
abstained  from  giving  them  any  but  harmless  medi- 
cines, and  as  we  could  not  possibly  do  harm,  our  pre- 
scriptions, though  unsanctioned  by  the  faculty,  might 
be  useful,  and  were  therefore  entitled  to  some  re- 
muneration. Four  miles  beyond  this  we  came  to 
another  large  house,  containing  ten  families,  where 
we  halted,  and  made  our  dinner  on  two  dogs  and 
a  small  quantity  of  roots,  which  we  did  not  obtain 
without  much  difficulty.  While  we  were  eating,  an 
Indian  standing  by,  and  looking  with  great  derision 
at  our  eating  dog's  flesh,  threw  a  poor  half-starved 
puppy  almost  into  Captain  Lewis's  plate,  laughing 
heartily  at  the  humour  of  it.  Captain  Lewis  took 
up  the  animal,  and  flung  it  back  with  great  force  into 
the  fellow's  face,  and,  seizing  his  tomahawk,  threat- 
ened to  cut  him  down  if  he  dared  to  repeat  such  inso- 
lence. He  immediately  withdrew,  apparently  much 
mortified,  and  we  continued  our  dog  repast  very 
quietly.  Here  we  met  our  old  Chopunnish  guide, 
with  his  family ;  and  soon  afterward  one  of  our  horses, 


COLTER'S  CREEK  45 

which  had  been  separated  from  the  others  ir>  the 
charge  of  Twisted  Hair,  and  been  in  this  neighbour- 
hood for  several  weeks,  was  caught  and  restored  to  us. 
"  After  dinner  we  proceeded  to  the  entrance  of 
Colter's  Creek,  at  the  distance  of"  four  miles,  and, 
having  made  twenty  and  a  half  miles,  encamped  on 
the  lower  side  of  it.  This  creek  rises  not  far  from 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  and,  passing  in  the  greater 
part  of  its  course  through  a  country  well  supplied 
with  pine,  discharges  a  large  body  of  water.  It  is 
about  twenty-five  yards  wide,  with  a  pebbled  bed 
and  low  banks.  At  a  little  distance  from  us  were 
two  Chopunnish  houses,  one  of  which  contained  eight 
families,  and  the  other,  much  the  largest  we  had  yet 
seen,  was  inhabited  by  at  least  thirty.  It  was  rather 
a  kind  of  shed,  built,  like  all  the  other  houses,  of 
straw  and  mats,  with  a  roof  one  hundred  and  fifty-six 
feet  long,  and  about  fifteen  wide,  closed  at  the  ends, 
and  having  a  number  of  doors  on  each  side.  The 
vast  interior  was  without  partitions,  but  the  fires  of 
the  different  families  were  kindled  in  a  row  through 
the  middle  of  the  building,  and  about  ten  feet  apart. 
This  village  was  the  residence  of  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal chiefs  of  the  nation,  who  was  called  Neeshne- 
pahkeeook,  or  Cut  Nose,  from  the  circumstance  of 
his  nose  having  been  cut  by  the  stroke  of  a  lance  in 
battle  with  the  Snake  Indians.  We  gave  him  a  small 
medal ;  but,  though  he  was  a  great  chief,  his  influence 
among  his  own  people  did  not  seem  to  be  considerable, 
and  his  countenance  possessed  very  little  intelligence. 
We  arrived  very  hungry  and  weary,  but  could  not  pur- 
chase any  provisions  except  a  small  quantity  of  the 
roots  of  the  cow-weed,  and  some  bread  made  from 


46      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

them.  They  had,  however,  heard  of  our  medical 
skill,  and  made  many  applications  for  assistance ;  but 
we  refused  to  do  anything  for  them,  unless  they  gave 
us  either  some  dog  or  horse  flesh  to  eat.  We  had 
soon  nearly  fifty  patients.  A  chief  brought  his  wife 
\vith  an  abscess  in  her  back,  and  promised  to  furnish 
us  with  a  horse  the  next  day  if  we  would  relieve  her. 
Captain  Clarke  therefore  opened  the  abscess,  intro- 
duced a  tent,  and  dressed  it  with  basilicon.  We  also 
prepared  and  distributed  some  doses  of  the  flour  of 
sulphur  and  cream  of  tartar,  with  directions  for  their 
use.  For  these  we  obtained  several  dogs,  but  they 
were  too  poor  to  be  eaten,  and  we  therefore  postponed 
our  medical  operations  till  the  morning.  In  the  mean 
time  a  number  of  Indians,  besides  the  residents  of  the 
village  gathered  about  us,  or  encamped  in  the  woody 
bottom  of  the  creek. 

"  In  the  evening  we  learned  from  a  Snake  Indian, 
who  happened  to  be  at  the  place,  that  one  of  the  old 
men  had  been  endeavouring  to  excite  prejudices 
against  us  by  observing  that  he  thought  we  were 
bad  men,  and  came  there,  most  probably,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  killing  them.  In  order  to  remove  such  sus- 
picions, we  made  a  speech,  in  which,  by  means  of  the 
same  Indian,  we  informed  them  of  our  country,  and 
of  the  purpose  of  our  visit.  While  we  were  thus  en- 
gaged, we  were  joined  by  Weahkoonut,  who  assisted 
us  in  effacing  all  unfavourable  impressions  from  the 
minds  of  the  Indians.  The  following  morning, 

"  May  6,  our  practice  became  more  lucrative.  The 
woman  declared  that  she  had  slept  better  than  she 
had  before  since  her  illness.  She  was  therefore 
dressed  a  second  time,  and  her  husband,  according 


GI 


GIVING  MEDICAL  AID  TO  THE  INDIANS     47 

to  promise,  brought  us  a  horse,  which  we  immedi- 
ately killed.  Besides  this  woman,  we  had  crowds 
of  applicants,  chiefly  afflicted  with  sore  eyes ;  and, 
after  administering  to  them  for  several  hours,  found 
ourselves  once  more  in  possession  of  a  plentiful  meal ; 
for  the  inhabitants  became  more  and  more  friendly, 
and  one  of  them  even  gave  us  a  horse  for  our  pre- 
scriptions for  his  daughter,  a  little  girl  who  was  af- 
flicted with  the  rheumatism.  We  moreover  exchanged 
one  of  our  horses  with  Weahkoonut  by  adding  a 
small  flag,  obtaining  an  excellent  sorrel  horse. 

"  We  found  here  three  men  of  a  nation  called  Skeet- 
somish,  who  reside  at  the  falls  of  a  large  river  empty- 
ing itself  into  the  north  side  of  the  Columbia,  and 
which  takes  its  rise  from  a  spacious  lake  in  the  moun- 
tains, at  no  great  distance  from  these  falls.  Wre  now 
designated  this  river  by  the  name  of  Clarke's  River, 
as  we  did  not  know  its  Indian  name,  and  we  were  the 
first  whites  who  had  ever  visited  its  principal  branches  ; 
for  the  Great  Lake  River,  mentioned  by  Mr.  Fidler, 
if  at  all  connected  with  Clarke's  River,  must  be  a 
very  inconsiderable  branch.  To  the  river,  moreover, 
which  we  had  before  called  Clarke's  River,  rising  in 
the  southwest  mountains,  we  restored  the  name  of 
Towahnahiooks,  the  appellation  by  which  it  is  known 
to  the  Eneeshurs.  In  dress  and  appearance  these 
Skeetsomish  were  not  to  be  distinguished  from  the 
Chopunnish ;  but  their  language  was  entirely  different, 
a  circumstance  which  we  did  not  learn  till  their  de- 
parture, when  it  was  too  late  to  obtain  from  them  a 
vocabulary  of  it."  *  * 

They  set  out  about  two  o'clock,  accompanied  by 
Weahkoonut,  with  ten  or  twelve  men.  and  an  Indian 


48      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

who  called  himself  the  brother  of  Twisted  Hair;  and 
after  proceeding  nine  miles  they  halted,  having  lost 
the  horse  they  had  intended  to  kill,  and,  consequently, 
being  obliged  to  lie  down  supperless  for  the  night. 

They  started  the  next  morning  with  the  brother 
of  Twisted  Hair  for  their  guide;  and  after  proceed- 
ing four  miles,  to  a  house  containing  six  families,  by 
his  advice  they  crossed  to  the  other  side  of  the  river, 
expecting  to  find  game  more  plentiful  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Chopunnish.  "  An  Indian/'  says  the  narrative, 
"  now  brought  two  canisters  of  powder,  which  his 
dog,"  he  stated,  "  had  discovered  under  ground,  in  a 
bottom  some  miles  above.  We  immediately  knew 
them  to  be  the  same  we  had  buried  last  autumn,  and 
as  he  had  kept  them  safely,  and  was  honest  enough 
to  return  them,  we  rewarded  him  —  inadequately,  to 
be  sure,  but  as  well  as  we  could — with  a  steel  for  strik- 
ing fire.  We  set  out  at  three  o'clock,  and  pursued  a 
difficult  and  stony  road  for  two  miles,  when  we  left 
the  river,  and  ascended  the  hills  on  the  right,  which 
began  to  resemble  mountains.  But  when  we  reached 
the  heights  we  saw  before  us  a  beautiful  level  country 
partially  covered  with  the  long-leafed  pine,  and  sup- 
plied with  an  excellent  herbage,  the  abundant  produc- 
tions of  a  dark,  rich  soil.  In  many  parts  of  the  plain 
the  earth  was  thrown  up  into  little  mounds  by  some 
animal  whose  habits  most  resemble  those  of  the  sala- 
mander; but,  although  these  mounds  were  scattered 
all  over  the  plains  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific, 
we  had  never  been  able  to  obtain  a  sight  of  the  ani- 
mal to  which  they  owe  their  origin." 

Coming  to  a  deserted  Indian  settlement,  on  a 
small  creek  emptying  into  the  Kooskooskee,  they 


WANT  OF  FOOD  AMONG  THE  NATIVES     49 

encamped  there  for  the  night.  The  spurs  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  were  covered  with  snow,  which  the 
Indians  said  was  still  deep,  and  that  they  would  not 
be  able  to  cross  them  before  the  1st  of  June.  They 
had  seen  some  deer  in  the  course  of  the  day,  and  the 
tracks  of  many  others. 

"  May  8.  Most  of  the  hunters  set  out  at  daylight. 
By  eleven  o'clock  they  all  returned,  with  four  deer, 
and  a  duck  of  an  uncommon  kind,  which,  with  the 
remains  of  our  horse,  formed  a  stock  of  provisions 
such  as  we  had  not  lately  possessed.  Not  having 
our  facilities  of  procuring  subsistence  with  guns,  the 
natives  of  this  country  must  often  suffer  very  severely. 
During  the  last  winter  they  had  been  so  much  dis- 
tressed for  food,  that-  they  were  obliged  to  boil  and 
eat  the  moss  growing  on  the  pine-trees.  At  the  same 
time  they  cut  down  nearly  all  the  long-leafed  pines 
(which  we  observed  lying1  on  the  ground),  for  the 
purpose  of  collecting  its  seed,  which  resembles  in 
size  and  shape  that  of  the  large  sunflower,  and,  when 
roasted  or  boiled,  is  nutritious,  and  not  disagreeable 
to  the  taste.  In  the  spring  they  peel  this  pine,  and  eat 
the  inner  bark ;  and  in  the  creek  near  us  they  take 
some  trout  by  means  of  a  falling  trap,  similar  to  those 
common  in  the  United  States.  We  gave  Neeshnepah- 
keeook  and  his  people  some  of  our  game  and  horse- 
flesh, besides  the  entrails  of  the  deer.  They  did  not 
eat  any  of  it  perfectly  raw,  but  the  entrails  had  very 
little  cooking.  The  Shoshonee  was  offended  at  not 
receiving  as  much  venison  as  he  wished,  and  refused 
to  interpret;  but,  as  we  took  no  notice  of  him,  he  be- 
came very  officious  in  the  course  of  a  few  hours,  and 
made  many  advances  to  reinstate  himself  in  our 


so      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

favour.  The  mother  of  Twisted  Hair  and  Neeshne- 
pahkeeook  now  drew  a  sketch,  which  we  preserved,  of 
all  the  waters  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  They 
made  the  main  southern  branch  of  Lewis's  River  much 
more  extensive  than  the  other,  and  placed  a  great 
number  of  Shoshonee  villages  on  its  western  side. 

"  Between  three  and  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon 
we  set  out,  in  company  with  Neeshnepankeeook  and 
other  Indians,  the  brother  of  Twisted  Hair  having  left 
us.  Our  route  was  up  a  high  steep  hill  to  a  level 
plain,  with  little  wood,  over  which  we  passed  in  a 
direction  parallel  to  the  river  for  four  miles,  when 
we  met  Twisted  Hair  and  six  of  his  people.  To  this 
chief  we  had  confided  our  horses  and  part  of  our 
saddles  the  preceding  autumn,  and  we  therefore 
formed  very  unfavourable  surmises  on  finding  that 
he  received  us  with  much  coldness.  He  soon  began 
to  speak  to  Neeshnepahkeeook  in  a  very  loud,  angry 
tone,  and  was  answered  by  him.  We  now  discovered 
that  there  was  a  violent  quarrel  between  these  chiefs, 
on  the  subject,  as  we  afterward  understood,  of  our 
horses.  But,  as  we  could  not  learn  the  cause,  and 
were  desirous  of  terminating  the  dispute,  we  inter- 
posed, and  told  them  that  we  should  go  on  to  the  first, 
water  and  halt.  We  therefore  set  out,  followed  by 
all  the  Indians,  and,  having  reached,  at  two  miles' 
distance,  a  small  stream  running  to  the  right,  we  en- 
camped, the  two  chiefs  and  their  little  bands  forming 
separate  camps  at  a  distance  from  each  other.  They 
all  appeared  to  be  in  very  ill  humour ;  and  as  we  had 
already  heard  a  report  that  the  Indians  had  discovered 
and  carried  off  our  saddles,  and  that  the  horses  were 
much  scattered,  we  began  to  be  uneasy  lest  there 


QUARREL  BETWEEN  TWO  CHIEFS         51 

should  be  too  much  foundation  for  the  rumour.  We 
were  therefore  anxious  to  reconcile  the  two  chiefs 
as  soon  as  possible,  and  desired  the  Shoshonee  to  in- 
terpret for  us  while  we  attempted  to  mediate  between 
them :  but  he  peremptorily  refused  to  speak  a  word. 
He  observed  that  it  was  a  quarrel  between  the  two 
chiefs,  and  he  had  therefore  i?c  *-ight  to  interfere ;  nor 
could  all  our  representations,  that,  in  merely  repeat- 
ing what  we  said,  he  could  not  possibly  be  considered 
as  meddling  between  them,  induce  him  to  take  any 
part  in  it. 

"  Soon  afterward  Drewyer  returned  from  hunting, 
and  was  sent  to  invite  Twisted  Hair  to  smoke  with 
us.  He  accepted  the  invitation,  and,  as  we  were 
smoking  over  our  fire,  he  informed  us  that,  accord- 
ing to  his  promise  on  leaving  us  at  the  Falls  of  the 
Columbia,  he  collected  our  horses  and  took  charge  of 
them  as  soon  as  he  reached  home.  But  about  this  time 
Neeshnepahkeeook  and  Tunnachemootoolt,  or  Broken 
Arm,  who,  as  we  passed,  had  been  on  a  war  party 
against  the  Shoshonees  on  the  south  branch  of  Lewis's 
River,  returned,  and  becoming  jealous  of  him  because 
the  horses  had  been  confided  to  his  care,  constantly 
sought  to  quarrel  with  him.  At  length,  being  an  old 
man,  and  unwilling  to  live  in  a  perpetual  broil  with 
these  chiefs,  he  gave  up  the  care  of  the  horses  to  them, 
in  consequence  of  which  the  animals  had  become  very 
much  scattered.  The  greater  part  of  them  were,  how- 
ever, still  in  the  neighbourhood ;  some  in  the  forks 
between  the  Chopunnish  and  Kooskooskee,  and  three 
or  four  at  the  village  of  Broken  Arm,  about  half  a 
day's  march  higher  up  the  river.  He  added  that  on 
the  rise  of  the  river  in  the  spring,  the  earth  had  fallen 


52      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

from  the  door  of  the  cache,  and  exposed  the  saddles, 
some  of  which  had  probably  been  lost;  but  that,  as 
soon  as  he  was  acquainted  with  the  situation  of  them, 
he  had  them  buried  in  another  deposit,  where  they 
now  were.  He  promised  that,  if  we  would  stay  the 
next  day  at  his  house,  a  few  miles  distant,  he  would 
collect  such  of  the  horses  as  were  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, and  send  his  young  men  for  those  in  the  forks, 
over  the  Kooskooskee.  He  moreover  advised  us  to 
visit  Broken  Arm,  who  was  a  chief  of  great  eminence, 
and  he  would  himself  guide  us  to  his  dwelling. 

"  We  told  him  that  we  would  follow  his  advice  in 
every  respect :  that  we  had  confided  our  horses  to 
his  care,  and  expected  he  would  deliver  them  to  us, 
on  which  we  should  cheerfully  give  him  the  two  guns 
and  the  ammunition  we  had  promised  him.  With 
this  he  seemed  very  much  pleased,  and  declared  he 
would  use  every  exertion  to  restore  the  horses.  We 
now  sent  for  Neeshnepahkeeook,  or  Cut  Nose,  and, 
after  smoking  for  some  time,  began  by  expressing 
to  the  two  chiefs  our  regret  at  .seeing  a  misunder- 
standing between  them.  Neeshnepahkeeook  replied 
that  Twisted  Hair  was  a  bad  old  man,  and  wore  two 
faces;  for,  instead  of  taking  care  of  our  horses,  he 
had  suffered  his  young  men  to  hunt  with  them,  so 
that  they  had  been  very  much  injured,  and  it  was  for 
this  reason  that  Broken  Arm  and  himself  had  forbid- 
den him  to  use  them.  Twisted  Hair  made  no  reply 
to  this  speech,  and  we  then  told  Neeshnepahkeeook 
of  our  arrangements  for  the  next  day.  He  appeared 
to  be  very  well  satisfied,  and  said  he  would  himself 
go  with  us  to  Broken  Arm,  who  expected  to  see  us, 
and  had  two  bad  horses  for  us\  by  which  expression  it 


REGAINING  THEIR  HORSES  53 

was  meant  that  he  intended  making  us  a  present  of 
two  valuable  horses.  That  chief,  he  also  informed  us, 
had  been  apprized  of  our  want  of  provisions,  and  had 
sent  four  young  men  with  a  supply  for  us;  but  that, 
having  taken  a  different  road,  they  had  missed  us. 
After  this  interview  we  retired  to  rest  at  a  late  hour, 
and  in  the  morning, 

"  May  9,  after  sending  out  several  hunters,  we  pro- 
ceeded through  a  rich,  level  country,  similar  to  that  of 
the  previous  day,  for  six  miles,  when  we  reached  the 
house  of  Twisted  Hair,  situated  near  some  larch-trees 
and  a  few  bushes  of  the  balsam-fir."  *  *  *  "  Late  in 
the  afternoon  Twisted  Hair  returned  with  about  half 
Ihe  saddles  we  had  left  in  the  autumn,  and  some  pow- 
der and  lead  that  had  been  buried  at  the  same  place. 
Soon  after  the  Indians  brought  us  twenty-one  of  our 
horses,  the  greater  part  of  which  were  in  excellent 
order,  though  some  of  them  had  not  yet  recovered 
from  hard  usage,  and  three  had  sore  backs.  We  were, 
however,  very  glad  to  recover  them  in  any  condition. 
Several  Indians  came  down  from  the  village  of  Tun- 
nachemootpolt,  and  passed  the  night  with  us.  Cut 
Nose  and  Twisted  Hair  seemed  now  to  be  perfectly 
reconciled,  for  they  both  slept, in  the  house  of  the  lat- 
ter. The  man  who  had  imposed  himself  upon  us  as 
a  brother  of  Twisted  Hair  also  came  and  renewed 
his  advances :  but  we  found  that  he  was  an  impertinent, 
proud  fellow,  of  no  respectability  in  the  nation,  and  we 
therefore  felt  no  inclination  to  cultivate  any  intimacy 
with  him.  Our  camp  was  in  an  open  plain,  and  soon 
became  very  uncomfortable ;  for  the  wind  was  high  and 
cold,  and  the  rain  and  hail,  which  began  about  seven 
o'clock,  changed  in  about  two  hours  to  a  heavy  fall  of 


54      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

snow,  which  continued  till  after  six  o'clock  the  next 
morning, 

"  May  10,  when  it  ceased,  after  covering  the  ground 
eight  inches  deep,  and  leaving  the  air  keen  and  frosty. 
We  soon  collected  our  horses,  and,  after  a  scanty 
breakfast  of /roots,  set  out  on  a  course  south  35°  east, 
The  road  was  very  slippery,  and  the  snow  stuck  to  the 
horses'  feet,  and  made  them  stumble  very  frequently. 
After  going  about  sixteen  miles  we  came  to  the  hills 
on  Commearp  Creek,  which  were  sjx  hundred  feet  high, 
and  their  tops  covered  with  snow,  though  in  the  lower 
parts,  as  well  as  along  the  bottom  of  the  creek,  there 
had  been  only  rain,  while  it  was  snowing  on  the  ele- 
vated plains.  Descending  these  hills  to  the  creek,  at 
about  four  o'clock  we  reached  the  house  of  Tunnache- 
mootoolt,  where  the  flag  which  we  had  given  him  was 
displayed  on  a  staff,  and  beneath  which  we  were  re- 
ceived in  due  form,  and  then  conducted  a  short  dis- 
tance to  a  good  spot  for  an  encampment,  on  Commearp 
Creek.  We  next  collected  the  men  of  consideration  in 
the  tribe,  and,  after  smoking  with  them,  explained  how 
destitute  we  were  of  provisions.  The  chief  then  spoke 
to  the  people,  and  they  immediately  brought  about  two 
bushels  of  dried  quamash  roots,  some  cakes  of  the  roots 
of  cow-weed,  and  a  dried  salmon-trout.  We  thanked 
them  for  this  supply,  but  observed  at  the  same  time 
that,  not  being  accustomed  to  live  on  roots  only,  we 
feared  that  such  diet  might  make  our  men  sick,  and 
proposed  to  exchange  one  of  our  good  horses  which 
was  rather  poor,  for  one  that  was  fatter  that  we  might 
kilL  The  hospitable  feelings  of  the  chief  were  shocked 
at  the  idea  of  an  exchange ;  and  he  at  once  replied  that 
his  people  had  an  abundance  of  young  horses  and  that, 


VISIT  FROM  HOHASTILLPILP  54 

if  we  were  disposed  to  eat  such  food,  we  migh4  i«tve  as 
many  as  we  wanted.  Accordingly,  they  soov  brought 
us  two  fat  young  horses,  asking  for  nothing  <n  return : 
an  act  of  liberal  kindness  much  greater  tkan  any  we 
had  witnessed  since  crossing  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
if  it  may  not,  indeed,  be  considered  the  only  really  hos- 
pitable treatment  we  had  received  in  this  part  of  the 
world.  We  killed  one  of  the  horses,  and  then  telling 
the  natives  that  we  were  fatigued  and  hungry,  and 
that,  as  soon  as  we  were  refreshed,  we  would  commu- 
nicate freely  with  them,  began  to  prepare  our  repast. 

"  During  this  time  a  principal  chief,  called  Hohas- 
tillpilp,  came  from  his  village,  about  six  miles  distant, 
with  a  party  of  fifty  men,  for  the  purpose  of  visiting 
us.  We  invited  him  into  our  circle,  and  he  aVtghted 
and  smoked  with  us,  while  his  retinue,  with  five  ele- 
gant horses,  continued  mounted  at  a  short  distance. 
While  this  was  going  on,  the  chief  had  a  large  leath- 
ern tent  spread  for  us,  and  desired  that  we  would  make 
it  our  home  so  long  as  we  remained  at  his  village  We 
removed  there,  and  having  made  a  fire,  and  cooked  our 
supper  of  horseflesh  and  roots,  collected  all  the  dis- 
tinguished men  present,  and  spent  the  evening  in  mak- 
ing known  who  we  were,  what  were  the  objects  of  our 
journey,  and  in  answering  their  inquiries.  To  each  of 
the  chiefs  Tunnachemoot6olt  and  Hohastillpilp  we 
gave  a  small  medal,  explaining  their  use  and  impor- 
tance as  honorary  distinctions  both  among  the  whites 
and  the  red  men.  Our  men  were  well  pleased  at  once 
more  having  made  a  hearty  meal.  They  had  generally 
been  in  the  habit  of  crowding  into  the  houses  of  the 
Indians,  to  purchase  provisions  on  the  best  terms  they 
could ;  for  the  inhospitality  of  the  country  was  such, 

M.  of  H.— XXIX— 10 


56      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

that  often,  in  the  extreme  of  hunger,  they  were  obliged 
to  treat  the  natives  with  but  little  ceremony;  but 
this  Twisted  Hair  had  told  us  was  very  disagreeable. 
Finding  that  these  people  are  so  kind  and  liberal,  we 
ordered  our  men  to  treat  them  with  the  greatest 
respect,  and  not  throng  round  their  fires,  so  that  they 
now  agree  perfectly  well  together.  After  the  council 
the  Indians  felt  no  disposition  to  retire,  and  our  tent 
was  filled  with  them  all  night.  The  next  morning, 

"  May  11.  we  arose  early,  and  breakfasted  again  on 
horseflesh.  This  village  of  Tunnachemootoolt  was,  in 
fact,  only  a  single  house,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
long,  built  after  the  Chopunnish  fashion,  with  sticks, 
straw,  and  dried  grass.  It  contained  twenty- four  fires, 
about  double  that  number  of  families,  and  might  mus- 
ter, perhaps,  one  hundred  fighting  men.  Their  chief 
subsistence  was  roots :  and  the  noise  made  by  the  worn- 
en  in  pounding  them  gave  one  the  idea  of  a  nail-fac- 
tory. Yet,  notwithstanding  so  many  families  were 
crowded  together,  we  found  the  Chopunnish  much 
more  cleanly  in  their  persons  and  habitations  than  any 
people  we  had  met  since  leaving  the  Ottoes  on  the 
River  Platte.  In  the  course  of  the  morning,  a  chief 
named  Yoompahkatim,  a  stout,  good-looking  man  of 
about  forty  years  of  age,  who  had  lost  his  left  eye, 
arrived  from  his  village  on  the  south  side  of  Lewis's 
River.  We  gave  him  a  small  medal,  and,  finding  that 
there  were  now  present  the  principal  chiefs  of  the 
Chopunnish  nation,  viz.,  Tunnachemootoolt,  Broken 
Arm,  Neeshnepahkeeook,  Yoompahkatim,  and  Hohas- 
tillpilp,  whose  rank  was  in  the  order  they  are  men- 
tioned, we  thought  this  a  favorable  moment  to  explain 
to  them  the  intentions  of  our  government.  We  there- 


COUNCIL  HELD  WITH  CHOPUNNISH       57 

fore  collected  the  chiefs  and  warriors,  and  having 
drawn  a  map  of  the  relative  situation  of  our  country 
on  a  map  with  a  piece  of  coal,  detailed  the  nature  and 
power  of  the  American  nation,  its  desire  to  preserve 
harmo'ny  between  all  its  red  brethren,  and  its  inten- 
tion of  establishing  trading-houses  for  their  relief  and 
support.  It  was  not  without  difficulty,  nor  till  nearly 
half  the  day  had  been  spent,  that  we  were  able  to  con- 
vey all  this  information  to  the  Chopunnish,  much  of 
which  might  have  been  lost  or  misapprehended  in  its 
translation  into  so  many  different  languages ;  for,  in 
the  first  place,  we  spoke  in  English  to  one  of  our  men, 
who  translated  it  into  French  to  Chaboneau,  who  in- 
terpreted it  to  his  wife  in  the  Minnetaree  tongue,  while 
she  then  put  it  into  Shoshonee,  and  the  young  Sho- 
shonee  prisoner  explained  it  to  the  Chopunnish  in 
their  own  dialect.  At  last,  however,  we  succeeded  in 
communicating  the  impression  we  wished,  and  then 
adjourned  the  council;  after  which  we  amused  our 
hosts  by  showing  them  the  wonders  of  the  compass, 
the  spy-glass,  the  magnet,  the  watch,  and  the  air-gun, 
each  of  which  attracted  its  share  of  admiration.  They 
said 'that  after  we  left  the  Minnetarees  last  autumn, 
three  young  Chopunnish  had  gone  over  to  that  nation, 
the  people  of  which  had  mentioned  to  them  our  visit, 
and  the  extraordinary  articles  we  had  with  us,  but 
that  they  had  placed  no  confidence  in  it  until  now. 
Among  other  persons  present  was  a  youth,  son  of  a 
Chopunnish  chief  of  much  consideration,  killed  not 
long  since  by  the  Minnetarees  of  Fort  de  Prairie.  As 
soon  as  the  council  was  over,  he  brought  a  very  fine 
mare,  with  her  colt,  and  begged  us  to  accept  them,  as 
a  proof  that  he  intended  to  follow  our  advice,  for  he 


58      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

had  opened  his  ears  to  it,  and  it  had  made  his  heart 
glad.  We  now  resumed  our  medical  labours,  and  had 
a  number  of  patients  afflicted  with  scrofula,  rheuma- 
tism, and  sore  eyes,  to  all  whom  we  administered 
very  cheerfully  as  far  as  our  skill  and  supplies  of  medi- 
cine would  permit.  We  also  visited  a  chief  who  had 
for  three  years  past  so  completely  lost  the  use  of  his 
limbs,  that  he  lay  like  a  corpse  in  whatever  position 
he  was  placed ;  yet  he  ate  heartily,  digested  his  food 
well,  had  a  regular  pulse,  and  retained  his  flesh ;  in 
short,  but  that  he  was  somewhat  pale  with  lying  so 
long  out  of  the  sun,  he  might  have  been  mistaken  for 
a  man  in  perfect  health.  This  disease  did  not  seem  to 
be  common ;  indeed,  we  saw  only  three  cases  of  it 
among  the  Chopunnish,  who  alone  are  afflicted  with  it. 
The  scrofulous  disorders  we  may  readily  conjecture 
to  originate  in  the  long  confinement  to  vegetable  diet, 
which  may  also,  perhaps,  increase  the  soreness  of  the 
eyes;  but  this  strange  disorder  baffled  at  once  our 
curiosity  and  our  skill.  Our  assistance  was  again  de- 
manded early  the  next  morning, 

"  May  12,  by  a  crowd  of  Indians,  to  whom  we  gave 
eye-water.  Shortly  after,  the  chiefs  and  warriors  held 
a  council  among  themselves,  to  decide  on  an  answer  to 
our  speech,  and  the  result  was,  as  we  were  informed, 
that  they  had  full  confidence  in  what  we  had  told 
them,  and  were  resolved  to  follow  our  advice.  This 
determination  having  been  made,  the  principal  chief, 
Tunnachemootoolt,  took  a  quantity  of  flour  of  the 
roots  of  cow-weed,  and  going  round  to  all  the  kettles 
and  baskets  in  which  his  people  were  cooking,  thick- 
ened the  soup  into  a  kind  of  mush.  He  then  began 
an  harangue,  setting  forth  the  result  of  the  delibera- 


SPEECH  OF  TUNNACHEMOOTOOLY        59 

ions  among'  the  chiefs,  and  after  exhorting  them  to 
unanimity,  concluded  with  an  invitation  to  all  who 
acquiesced  in  the  proceedings  of  the  council  to  come 
and  eat;  while  those  who  were  of  a  different  mind 
were  requested  to  show  their  dissent  by  not  partaking 
of  the  feast.  During  this  animated  harrangue,  the 
women,  who  were  probably  uneasy  at  the  prospect  of 
forming  this  proposed  new  connexion  with  strangers, 
tore  their  hair,  and  wrung  their  hands  with  the  great- 
est appearance  of  distress.  But  the  concluding  appeal 
of  the  orator  effectually  stopped  rhe  mouths  of  every 
malecontent,  and  the  proceedings  were  ratified,  and 
the  mush  devoured  with  the  most  zealous  unanimity. 
The  chiefs  and  warriors  then  came  in  a  body  to  visit 
us  as  we  were  seated  near  our  tent;  and  at  their  in- 
stance, two  young  men,  one  of  whom  was  a  son  of 
Tunnachemootoolt,  and  the  other  the  youth  whose 
father  had  been  killed  by  the  Pahkees,  presented  to 
us  each  a  fine  horse.  We  invited  the  chiefs  to  be  seated, 
and  gave  every  one  of  them  a  flag,  a  pound  of  powder, 
and  fifty  balls,  and  a  present  of  the  same  kind  to  the 
young  men  from  whom  we  had  received  the  horses. 
They  then  invited  us  into  the  tent,  and  said  that  they 
now  wished  to  answer  what  we  had  told  them  yester- 
day, but  that  many  of  their  people  were  at  that  mo- 
ment waiting  in  great  pain  for  our  medical  assistance. 
It  was  therefore  agreed  that  Captain  Clarke,  who  was 
the  favourite  physician,  should  visit  the  sick,  while 
Captain  Lewis  held  the  council ;  which  was  opened  by 
an  old  man,  the  father  of  Hohastillpilp.  He  began  by 
declaring  that  the  nation  had  listened  with  attention 
to  our  advice,  and  had  only  one  heart  and  one  tongue 
in  declaring  their  determination  to  follow  it.  They 


60      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

knew  well  the  advantages  of  peace,  for  they  valued 
the  lives  of  their  young  men  too  much  to  expose  them 
to  the  dangers  of  war;  and  their  desire  to  live  quietly 
with  their  neighbours  had  induced  them  last  summer 
to  send  three  warriors  with  a  pipe  to  the  Shoshonees, 
in  the  plains  of  the  Columbia  south  of  Lewis's  River. 
These  ministers  of  peace  had  been  killed  by  the  Sho- 
shonees, against  whom  the  nation  immediately  took  up 
arms.  They  had  met  them  last  winter  and  killed  forty- 
two  men,  with  the  loss  of  only  three  of  their  own 
party;  so  that,  having  revenged  their  deceased  breth- 
ren, they  would  no  longer  make  war  on  the  Shosho- 
nees, but  receive  them  as  friends.  As  to  going  with  us 
to  the  plains  of  the  Missouri,  they  would  be  very  will- 
ing to  do  so;  for,  though  the  Blackfoot  Indians  and 
the  Pahkees  had  shed  much  of  their  blood,  they  still 
wished  to  live  in  peace  with  them.  But  we  had  not 
yet  seen  either  of  these  nations,  and  it  would  therefore 
be  unsafe  for  them  to  venture  till  they  were  assured 
of  not  being  attacked  by  them.  Still,  however,  some  of 
their  young  men  should  accompany  us  across  the 
mountains,  and  if  they  could  effect  a  peace  with  their 
enemies,  the  whole  nation  would  go  over  to  the  Mis- 
souri in  the  course  of  the  next  summer.  On  our  pro- 
posal that  one  of  their  chiefs  should  go  with  us  to  the 
country  of  the  whites,  they  had  not  yet  decided,  but 
would  let  us  know  before  we  left;  but  that,  at  all 
events,  the  whites  might  calculate  on  their  attachment 
and  their  best  services,  for,  though  poor,  their  hearts 
were  good.  The  snow  was,  however,  still  so  deep  on 
the  mountains,  that  we  should  perish  in  attempting 
the  passage,  but  if  we  waited  till  after  the  next  full 


PRESENTS  TO  THE  CHIEFS  ei 

moon,  the  snows  would  have  melted  sufficiently  to  en- 
able our  horses  to  subsist  on  the  grass. 

"  As  soon  as  this  speech  was  concluded,  Captain 
Lewis  replied  at  some  length :  they  appeared  to  be 
highly  gratified  with  what  he  said,  and  after  smoking 
the  pipe,  made  us  a  present  of  another  fat  horse.  In 
turn,  we  gave  Broken  Arm  a  vial  of  eye-water,  with 
directions  how  to  wash  the  eyes  of  those  who  should 
apply  for  it;  and  as  we  promised  to  fill  it  again  when 
it  was  exhausted,  he  seemed  very  much  pleased  with 
our  liberality.  To  Twisted  Hair,  who  last  night  had 
collected  six  more  horses,  we  gave  a  gun,  a  hundred 
balls,  and  two  pounds  of  powder,  and  told  him  he 
should  have  the  same  quantity  when  we  received  the 
remainder  of  our  horses.  In  the  course  of  the  day 
three  more  of  them  were  brought  in,  and  a  fresh  ex- 
change of  small  presents  put  the  Indians  in  excellent 
humour.  On  our  expressing  a  wish  to  cross  the  river, 
and  form  a  camp  in  order  to  hunt  and  fish  till  the 
snows  had  melted,  they  recommended  a  position  a  few 
miles  distant,  and  promised  to  furnisrl  us  the  next 
day  with  a  canoe  to  pass  over.  We  invited  Twisted 
Hair  to  establish  himself  near  our  camp,  for  he  had 
several  young  sons,  one  of  whom  we  hoped  to  engage 
as  a  guide,  and  he  promised  to  do  so.  Having  now  set- 
tled all  their  affairs,  the  Indians  divided  themselves 
into  two  parties,  and  began  to  play  the  game  of  hid- 
ing a  bone,  already  described  as  common  to  all  the 
natives  of  this  country." 


CHAPTER  IV. 

The  Party  encamp  among  the  Chopunnish,  and  receive  farther  Evidence 
of  their  Hospitality. — Indian  Mode  of  boiling  Bear's  Flesh. — Of  decoy- 
ing the  Deer  within  Reach  of  their  Arrows. — Character  of  the  Soil 
and  Climate  among  the  Rocky  Mountains. — Varieties  of  Climate. — 
Character  of  the  Natives. — Their  Dress  and  Ornaments. — Mode  of 
burying  the  Dead. — The  Party  administer  medical  Relief  to  the  Natives. 
— One  of  the  Natives  restored  to  the  Use  of  his  Limbs  by  Sweating, 
and  the  curious  Process  by  which  Perspiration  was  excited. — Another 
Proof  of  Chopunnish  Hospitality. — Success  of  their  sweating  Prescrip- 
tion on  an  Indian  Chief. — Description  of  the  Horned  Lizard  and  a 
Variety  of  Insects. — Attachment  of  the  Friends  of  a  dying  Indian 
to  a  Tomahawk  which  he  had  stolen  from  the  Party,  and  which  they 
desired  to  bury  with  the  Body. — Description  of  the  River  Tommana- 
mah. — The  Indians  return  an  Answer  to  a  Proposition  made  by  the 
Party. 

THEY    were    disappointed    in    being    furnished 
with  a  canoe  in  season  to  cross  the  river  the 
next  day,  but  passed  over  on  the  14th,  and 
formed    their   camp    where    the    Indians    had    recom- 
mended.    "  As  soon  as  we  had  encamped,"  says  the 
Journal,  "  Tunnachemootoolt  and  Hohastillpilp,  with 
about    twelve    of    their    nation,    came    to    the    oppo- 
site side  and  began  to  sing,  this  being  the  usual  to- 
ken  of   friendship   on   such   occasions.     We   sent  the 
canoe  for  them,  and  the  two  chiefs  came  over  with 
several  of  the  party,  among  whom  were  the  two  young 
men  who  had  given  us  the  two  horses  in  behalf  of  the 
62 


THE  VARIEGATED  BEAR  63 

nation.  After  smoking  for  some  time,  Hohastillpilp 
presented  to  Captain  Lewis  an  elegant  gray  gelding 
which  he  had  brought  for  that  purpose,  and  was  per- 
fectly satisfied  at  receiving  in  return  a  handkerchief, 
two  hundred  balls,  and  four  pounds  of  powder. 

"  The  hunters  killed  some  pheasants,  two  squirrels, 
and  a  male  and  a  female  bear,  the  first  of  which  was 
large  and  fat,  and  of  a  bay  colour ;  the  second,  meager, 
grizzly,  and  of  a  smaller  size.  They  were  of  the  species 
common  to  the  upper  part  of  the  Missouri,  and  might 
well  be  termed  the  variegated  bear,  for  they  are  found 
occasionally  of  a  black  grizzly  brown  or  red  colour. 
There  is  every  reason  to  believe  that  they  are  of  pre- 
cisely the  same  species.  Those  of  different  colours 
are  sometimes  killed  together,  as  in  the  case  of  these 
two,  and  as  we  had  found  the  white  and  bay  associ- 
ated together  on  the  Missouri :  some  nearly  white  were 
seen  in  this  neighbourhood  by  the  hunters.  Indeed,  it 
is  not  common  to  find  any  two  bears  of  the  same  col- 
our; and  if  difference  of  colour  were  allowed  to  con- 
stitute a  distinct  species,  the  number  would  be  in- 
creased to  almost  twenty.  Soon  after  they  killed  a 
female  bear  with  two  cubs.  The  mother  was  black, 
with  a  considerable  intermixture  of  white  hairs,  and  a 
white  spot  on  her  breast.  One  of  the  cubs  was  jet 
black,  and  the  other  of  a  light  reddish  brown  or  bay 
colour.  The  fur  of  these  variegated  bears  is  much 
finer,  longer,  and  more  abundant  than  that  of  the  com- 
mon black  bear ;  but  the  most  striking  difference  be- 
tween them  is.  that  the  former  are  larger,  have  longer 
tusks,  and  longer  as  well  as  blunter  claws ;  that  they 
prey  more  on  other  animals;  and  that  they  lie  neither 


64      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

so  long  nor  so  closely  in  winter-quarters,  and  never 
climb  a  tree,  however  closely  pressed  by  the  hunters. 
The  variegated  bear  here,  though  specifically  the 
same  with  those  we  met  on  the  Missouri  are  by  no 
means  so  ferocious,  probably  because  the  scarcity  of 
game  and  the  habit  of  living  on  roots  may  have 
weaned  them  from  attacking  and  devouring  animals. 
Still,  however,  they  are  not  so  passive  as  the  common 
black  bear,  which  are  also  found  here;  for  they  had 
fought  with  our  hunters,  though  with  less  fury  than 
those  on  the  other  side  of  the  mountains. 

"  A  large  part  of  the  meat  we  gave  to  the  Indians, 
to  whom  it  was  a  great  luxury,  as  they  scarcely  taste 
flesh  once  in  a  month.  They  immediately  prepared  a 
large  fire  of  dried  wood,  on  which  were  thrown  a 
number  of  smooth  stones  from  the  river.  As  soon  as 
the  fire  went  down  and  the  stones  were  heated,  the}' 
were  laid  close  to  each  other  in  a  level  position,  and 
covered  with  a  quantity  of  pine  branches,  on  which 
were  placed  flitches  of  the  meat,  and  then  boughs  and 
flesh  alternately  for  several  courses,  leaving  a  thick 
layer  of  pine  on  the  top.  On  this  heap  they  then 
poured  a  small  quantity  of  water,  and  covered  the 
whole  with  earth  to  the  depth  of  four  inches.  After 
remaining  in  this  state  for  about  three  Hours,  the  meat 
was  taken  off,  and  was  really  more  tender  than  that 
which  we  had  boiled  or  roasted,  though  the  strong 
flavour  of  the  pine  rendered  it  disagreeable  to  our 
palates.  This  repast  gave  them  much  satisfaction; 
for,  though  they  sometimes  kill  the  black  bear,  they 
attack  very  reluctantly  the  fierce  variegated  bear;  and 
never  except  when  they  can  pursue  him  on  horseback 
over  the  plains,  and  shoot  him  with  arrows."  *  *  * 


INDIAN  MODE  OF  DECOYING  DEER        65 

"  May  15.  As  we  were  compelled  to  pass  some 
time  in  this  neighbourhood,  a  number  of  hunters  were 
sent  in  different  directions,  and  the  rest  were  employed 
in  completing  the  camp.  We  secured  the  baggage 
with  a  shelter  of  grass,  and  made  a  kind  of  bower  of 
the  under  part  of  an  old  sail,  the  leathern  tent  being 
too  rotten  for  use,  while  the  men  formed  very  com- 
fortable huts  in  the  shape  of  the  awning  of  a  wagon, 
by  means  of  willow  poles  and  grass.  Tunnachemoo- 
toolt  and  his  young  men  left  us  in  the  morning  to  go 
home,  and  soon  after  we  were  visited  by  a  party  of 
fourteen  Indians  on  horseback,  proceeding  on  a  hunt- 
ing excursion,  armed  with  bows  and  arrows.  The 
chief  game  is  the  deer,  and,  whenever  the  ground  will 
permit,  they  prefer  hunting  on  horseback ;  but  in  the 
woodlands,  where  this  is  impracticable,  they  make 
use  of  a  decoy.  This  consists  of  the  skin  of  the  head 
and  upper  part  of  the  neck  of  the  deer,  kept  in  its  nat- 
ural shape  by  a  frame  of  small  sticks  in  the  inside.  As 
soon  as  the  hunter  perceives  a  deer,  he  conceals  him- 
self, and  with  his  hand  moves  the  decoy  so  as  to  rep- 
resent a  real  deer  in  the  act  of  feeding,  which  is  done 
so  naturally  that  the  game  is  enticed  within  reach  of 
their  arrows."  *  *  * 

The    next    day   a    horse    which    had    strayed    was 
brought  back  by  one  of  the  Indians,  thus  affording 
another   instance   of   the   honesty   of   these   people. 
Their  native  guests  all  left  them  in  the  course  of  the 
day. 

"  May  17. .  It  rained,"  continues  the  narrative, 
"  during  the  greater  part  of  the  night,  and  our  flimsy 
covering  being  insufficient  for  our  protection,  we  lay 
in  water  the  most  of  the  time;  and,  what  was  more 


66      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

unlucky,  our  chronometer  got  wet.  The  rain  con- 
tinued with  us  nearly  the  whole  day,  while  on  the  high 
plains  the  snow  was  falling,  and  lay  two  or  three 
inches  in  depth.  This  weather  confined  us  to  our 
camp,  and  kept  the  Indians  from  us;  so  that  for  the 
first  time  since  we  had  left  the  Narrows  of  the  Colum- 
bia, a  day  was  passed  without  being  visited  by  them. 

"  The  country  along  the  Rocky  Mountains,  for 
several  hundred  miles  in  length  and  about  fifty  in 
width,  is  a  high  level  plain;  in  all  its  parts  extremely 
fertile,  and  in  many  places  covered  with  a  growth  of 
tall  long-leafed  pine.  This  plain  is  chiefly  interrupted 
near  the  streams  of  water,  where  the  hills  are  steep 
and  lofty;  but  the  soil  on  them  is  good,  being  unen- 
cumbered by  much  stone,  and  possessing  more  timber 
than  the  level  country.  Under  shelter  of  these  hills, 
the  bottom  lands  skirt  the  margins  of  the  rivers,  and 
though  narrow  and  confined,  are  fertile  and  rarely  in- 
undated. Nearly  the  whole  of  this  widespread  tract 
is  covered  with  a  profusion  of  grass  and  plants,  which 
were  at  this  time  as  high  as  the  knee.  Among  these 
are  a  variety  of  esculent  plants  and  roots,  gathered 
without  much  difficulty,  and  yielding  not  only  a  nutri- 
tious, but  a  very  agreeable  food.  'The  air  is  pure  and 
dry,  the  climate  quite  as  mild,  if  not  milder,  than  in  the 
same  parallels  of  latitude  in  the  Atlantic  States,  and 
must  be  equally  healthy :  for  all  the  disorders  which 
we  had  witnessed  might  fairly  be  imputed  more  to  the 
nature  of  the  diet  of  the  inhabitants  than  to  any  peculi- 
arity of  climate.  This  general  observation  is  of  course 
to  be  qualified,  since  in  the  same  tract  of  country 
the  degrees  of  the  variation  of  heat  and  cold  depend 
much  upon  the  influence  of  situation.  Thus  the  rains 


DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  CHOPUNNISH       67 

of  the  low  grounds  near  our  camp  were  snows  in 
the  high  plains ;  and  while  the  sun  shone  with  intense 
heat  in  the  confined  bottoms,  the  plains  had  a  much 
colder  air,  and  the  vegetation  was  retarded  there  at 
least  fifteen  days,  while  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains 
the  snows  were  still  many  feet  in  depth ;  so  that  within 
twenty  miles  of  our  camp  we  observed  the  rigours  of 
winter  cold,  the  cool  air  of  spring,  and  the  oppressive 
heat  of  midsummer.  On  the  plains,  however,  where 
the  snow  had  fallen,  it  seemed  to  do  but  little  injury  to 
the  grass  and  other  plants,  which,  though  apparently 
tender  and  susceptible,  were  still  blooming  at  the 
height  of  nearly  eighteen  inches  through  their  wintry 
mantle.  In  short,  this  district  affords  many  advantages 
to  settlers;  and,  if  properly  cultivated,  would  yield 
every  object  necessary  for  the  subsistence  and  com- 
fort of  civilized  man. 

"  The  Chopunnish'are  in  general  stout,  well  formed, 
and  active :  they  have  high,  and  many  of  them  aquiline 
noses,  and  the  general  appearance  of  the  face  is  cheer- 
ful and  agreeable,  though  without  any  indication  of 
gayety  and  mirth.  Like  most  of  the  Indians,  they  ex- 
tract their  beards :  there  does  not  appear  to  be  any  nat- 
ural deficiency  in  this  respect,  for  we  observed  several 
men,  who,  if  they  had  adopted  the  practice  of  shaving", 
would  have  been  as  well  supplied  with  beards  as  our- 
selves. The  dress  of  both  sexes  resembles  that  of  the 
Shoshonees,  and  consists  of  a  long  shirt  reaching  to 
the.  thigh,  leggins  as  high  as  the  waist,  and  moccasins 
and  robes,  all  of  which  are  formed  of  skins. 

"  Their  ornaments  are  beads,  shells,  and  pieces  of 
brass  attached  to  different  parts  of  the  dress,  tie-d 
round  the  arms,  neck,  and  wrists,  or  thrown  over  the 


68      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

shoulders ;  and  to  these  are  added  pearls  and  beads  sus- 
pended from  the  ears,  and  a  single  shell  of  wampum 
through  the  nose.  The  headdress  of  the  men  is  a 
bandeau  of  fox  or  otter  skin,  either  with  or  without  the 
fur,  and  sometimes  an  ornament  is  tied  to  a  plait  of 
hair  falling  from  the  crown  of  the  head;  that  of  the 
women  is  a  cap  without  rim,  formed  of  bear-grass  and 
cedar  bark ;  while  the  hair  itself  of  both  sexes  falls  in 
two  rows  down  the  front  of  the  body.  Collars  of  bears' 
claws  are  also  common.  But  the  personal  ornament 
most  esteemed  is  a  sort  of  breastplate,  formed  of  a 
strip  of  otter-skin  six  inches  wide,  cut  out  of  the  whole 
length  of  the  back  of  the  animal,  including  the  head : 
this  being  dressed  with  the  hair  on,  a  hole  is  made  in 
the  upper  end  for  the  head  of  the  wearer  to  pass 
through,  and  the  skin  hangs  down  in  front,  with  the 
tail  reaching  below  the  knee,  and  ornamented  with 
pieces  of  pearl,  red  cloth,  wampum,  or,  in  short,  any 
other  fanciful  decoration.  Tippets,  also,  are  occasion- 
ally worn.  That  of  Hohastillpilp  was  formed  of  hu- 
man scalps,  and  adorned  with  the  thumbs  and  fingers 
of  the  enemies  he  had  slain  in  battle. 

"  The  Chopurfnish  are  among  the  most  amiable 
Indians  we  had  seen.  Their  character  is  placid  and 
,  gentle,  rarely  moved  into  passion,  and  not  often  en- 
livened by  gayety.  Their  amusements  consist  in  run- 
ning races,  and  in  shooting  with  arrows  at  a  target, 
and  they  are  addicted  to  the  all-prevailing  vice  of  gam- 
bling. They  are  much  less  taken  with  bawbles  than 
the  generality  of  Indians,  and  are  chiefly  anxious  to 
obtain  articles  of  utility,  such  as  knives,  tomahawks, 
kettles,  blankets,  and  awls  for  making  moccasins. 
They  have  also  suffered  so  much  from  the  sugeriov 


HORNED  LIZARD  69 

equipment  of  their  enemies,  that  they  are  very  desir- 
ous of  procuring  arms  and  ammunition,  which  they 
are  gradually  acquiring;  for  the  band  of  Tunnache- 
mootoolt  have  already  six  guns,  which,  they  obtained 
from  the  Minnetarees. 

"  The  Chopunnish  bury  their  dead  in  sepulchres 
formed  of  boards,  and  in  shape  like  the  roof  of  a  house. 
The  bodies  are  rolled  in  skins,  and  laid  one  above  an- 
other, separated  only  by  a  board.  We  have  sometimes 
seen  their  dead  deposited  in  wooden  boxes,  after  be- 
ing rolled  in  skins  in  the  same  manner.  They  sacrifice 
to  the  deceased  their  horses,  canoes,  and  every  other 
species  of  property,  and  numerous  bones  of  horses 
may  be  seen  lying  round  their  sepulchres."  *  *  * 

"  Among  the  reptiles  common  in  this  country  is  a 
species  of  lizard,  which  we  called  the  horned  lizard, 
about  the  size,  and  much  resembling  in  figure  the  ordi- 
nary black  lizard.  Its  belly  is,  however,  broader,  its 
tail  shorter,  and  its  action  much  slower  than  that  of 
the  common  lizard.  It  crawls  like  the  toad,  and  is 
of  a  brown  colour  variegated  with  yellowish  brown 
spots :  it  is  covered  with  minute  shells,  interspersed 
with  little  horny  projections  like  prickles,  on  the  up- 
per part  of  the  body.  The  belly  and  throat  resem- 
ble that  of  the  frog,  and  are  of  a  light  yellowish  brown. 
The  edges  of  the  belly  are  regularly  studded  with 
these  horny  projections,  which  give  to  them  a  serrated 
appearance :  the  eye  is  small  and  of  a  dark  colour. 
Above  and  behind  the  eyes  are  several  bony  projec- 
tions, which,  being  armed  at  the  extremities  with  a 
firm  black  substance,  looking  like  horns  sprouting 
from  the  head,  induced  us  to  call  it  the  horned  lizard. 
These  animals  are  found  in  great  abundance  in  the 


70      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

sandy  parts  of  the  plains,  and  after  a  shower  of  rain 
are  seen  basking  in  the  sun,  but  for  the  greater  part  of 
the  time  they  are  concealed  in  holes.  They  are  also 
seen  in  great  numbers  on  the  banks  of  the  Missouri, 
and  in  the  plains  through  which  we  passed  above  the 
Wallawollahs." 

*  *  *  "  Most  of  the  insects  of  the  United  State* 
are  common  here,  though  there  is  neither  the  hornet, 
the  wasp,  or  the  yellow-jacket,  but  an  insect  resem- 
bling the  last  of  these,  though  much  larger.  They  ar> 
very  numerous,  particularly  in  the  Rocky  Mountains 
and  on  the  waters  of  the  Columbia:  the  body  and 
abdomen  are  yellow,  with  transverse  circles  of  black, 
the  head  black,  and  the  wings,  which  are  four  in  num- 
ber, are  of  a  dark  brown  colour;  their  nests  are  built  in 
the  ground,  and  resemble  that  of  the  hornet,  with  an 
outer  covering  to  the  comb.  These  insects  are  very 
fierce,  and  sting  severely,  so  that  we  found  them  ex- 
ceedingly troublesome  in  frightening  our  horses  as 
we  passed  the  mountains.  The  silkworm  is  also  found 
here,  as  well  as  the  bumble-bee,  though  the  honey-bee 
is  not." 

From  the  18th  to  the  23d  nothing  of  special  inter- 
est occurred.  For  several  days  they  had  almost  con- 
stant rains,  and  the  hunters  had  very  little  success  in 
killing  game,  so  that  they  were  very  scantily  supplied 
with  food.  The  salmon,  however,  were  soon  expected, 
as  they  had  received  accounts  of  their  having  made 
their  appearance  in  Lewis's  River. 

"  May  24.  This  proved  the  warmest  day,"  says 
the  Journal,  "  since  our  arrival.  Besides  administering 
medical  relief  to  the  Indians,  we  were  now  obliged  to 
devote  much  of  our  time  to  the  care  of  our  own  in- 


TREATMENT  BY  SWEATING  BATH          71 

valids.  The  child  of  Sacajawea  was  very  unwell ;  and 
with  one  of  the  men  we  had  ventured  an  experiment 
of  a  very  bold  character.  He  had  been  for  some  time 
sick,  but  had  now  recovered  his  flesh,  ate  heartily,  and 
digested  well,  but  had  so  great  a  weakness  in  the  loins 
that  he  could  not  walk,  nor  even  sit  upright  without 
extreme  pain.  After  we  had  in  vain  exhausted  the 
resources  of  our  art,  one  of  the  hunters  mentioned 
that  he  had  known  persons  in  a  similar  situation  re- 
stored by  violent  sweats,  and  at  the  request  of  the 
patient  we  permitted  the  remedy  to  be  applied.  For 
this  purpose,  a  hole  about  four  feet  deep  and  three  in 
diameter  was  dug  in  the  earth,  and  heated  well  by  a 
large  fire  in  the  bottom  of  it.  The  fire  was  then  taken 
out,  and  an  arch  formed  over  the  hole  by  means  of 
willow  poles,  and  covered  with  several  blankets,  so  as 
to  form  a  perfect  awning.  The  patient,  being  stripped 
naked,  was  seated  under  this  on  a  bench,  with  a  piece 
of  board  for  his  feet,  while  with  a  jug  of  water  he 
sprinkled  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  hole,  so  as  to 
keep  up  as  hot  a  steam  as  he  could  bear.  After  re- 
maining twenty  minutes  in  this  situation  he  was  taken 
out,  immediately  plunged  twice  into  cold  water,  and 
then  brought  back  to  the  hole,  where  he  was  again 
subjected  to  the  vapour  bath.  During  all  this  time 
he  drank  copiously  a  strong  infusion'  of  horsemint, 
which  was  used  as  a  substitute  for  the  seneca  root, 
which  our  informant  said  he  had  seen  employed  on 
these  occasions,  but  of  which  there  was  none  in  this 
country.  At  the  end  of  three  quarters  of  an  hour  he 
was  again  withdrawn  from  the  hole,  carefully  wrap- 
ped up,  and  suffered  to  cool  gradually.  The  morning 

M.  of  H.— XVIX— 17 


72      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

after  this  operation  was  performed  he  walked  abo&t, 
and  was  nearly  free  from  pain. 

"  About  eleven  o'clock  a  canoe  arrived  with  three 
Indians,  one  of  whom  was  the  poor  creature  who  had 
lost  the  use  of  his  limbs,  and  for  whose  recovery  the 
natives  seemed  very  anxious,  as  he  was  a  chief  of  con- 
siderable rank  among  them.  His  situation,  however, 
was  beyond  the  reach  of  our  skill.  He  complained  of 
no  pain  in  any  particular  limb,  and  we  therefore 
thought  his  disorder  could  not  be  rheumatic;  and  his 
limbs  would  have  been  more  attenuated  if  his  disease 
had  been  a  paralytic  affection." 

The  two  following  days  the  hunters  failed  alto- 
gether in  obtaining  game,  but  purchased  a  few  roots, 
which  they  brought  in.  The  Indians  still  remained  at 
the  encampment  with  their  sick  chief,  discovering  the 
most  affectionate  anxiety  for  his  cure,  and  continually 
soliciting  that  something  farther  might  be  done  for 
him.  The  snows  on  the  mountains  were  evidently  dis- 
appe«a.ring,  and  on  the  26th  they  were  gladdened  by  the 
sight  of  a  salmon  in  the  river. 

"  May  27.  The  horse  the  Indians  had  given  us 
some  time  ago  had  gone  astray,  but  in  our  present 
dearth  of  provisions  we  searched  for  him  and  killed 
him.  Observing  that  we  were  in  want  of  food,  Ho- 
hastillpilp  told  us  that  most  of  the  horses  which  we 
saw  running  at  large  belonged  to  him  or  his  people, 
and  that,  whenever  we  wished  for  meat,  we  might  take 
one  without  any  restraint.  We  had,  indeed,  more 
than  once,  occasion  to  admire  the  generosity  of  this 
Indian,  whose  conduct  presented  a  model  of  what  is 
due  to  strangers  in  distress.  A  party  was  sent  to  a 
.village  that  had  been  discovered  the  day  before,  and 


HOSPITALITY  OF  HOHASTILLPILP         73 

returned  with  a  large  supply  of  bread  and  roots.  Ser- 
geant Ordway  and  two  men  were  also  despatched  to 
Lewis's  River,  about  half  a  day's  ride  to  the  south, 
where  we  expected  to  obtain  salmon,  which  were  said 
to  be  very  abundant  at  that  place.  Three  of  our  hunt- 
ers returned  with  five  deer."  *  *  *  "  The  Indians  who 
attended  the  sick  chief  were  so  anxious  to  have  the 
operation  of  sweating  performed  on  him  under  our 
inspection,  that  we  determined  ,to  gratify  them  by 
making  the  attempt.  The  hole  wras  therefore  en- 
larged, and  the  father  of  the  chief,  a  very  good-looking 
old  man,  went  in  writh  him,  and  held  him  in  a  proper 
position.  This  strong  evidence  of  affection  is  directly 
opposite  to  the  received  opinion  of  the  insensibility  of 
savages;  nor  were  we  less  struck  with  the  kindness 
and  attentions  shown  to  the  sick  man  by  those  who 
were  wholly  unrelated  to  him,  and  which  was  the  more 
remarkable,  as  his  long  illness  of  three  years  might 
be  supposed  to  have  exhausted  their  sympathy.  We 
could  not  produce  as  complete  a  perspiration  as  we 
desired,  and  after  he  was  taken  out  he  complained  of 
suffering  considerable  pain,  which  we  relieved  with  a 
few  drops  of  laudanum,  and  he  then  rested  well.  The 
next  morning, 

"  May  28,  he  was  able  to  use  his  arms,  felt  better 
than  he  had  done  for  months,  and  sat  up  during  the 
greater  part  of  the  day."  *  *  * 

"  May  29.  The  Indian  chief  was  still  rapidly  recov- 
ering, and  for  the  first  time  during  the  last  twelve 
months  had  strength  enough  to  wash  his  face.  We 
had  intended  to  repeat  the  sweating  to-day,  but,  as 
the  weather  was  cloudy,  with  occasional  raining,  we 
deferred  it.  This  operation,  though  violent,  appears 


74      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

highly  efficacious ;  for  our  own  man,  on  whom  the  ex- 
periment was  first  made,  is  recovering  his  strength 
very  fast,  and  the  restoration  of  the  chief  is  wonder- 
ful. He  continued  to  improve,  and  on  the  following 
day, 

"  May  30,  after  a  very  violent  sweating,  was  able 
to  move  one  of  his  legs  and  some  of  his  toes,  the  fin* 
gers  and  arms  being  almost  entirely  restored  to  their 
former  strength."  *  *  * 

"  May  31.  Two  men  visited  the  Indian  village, 
where  they  purchased  a  dressed  bearskin  of  a  uniform 
pale  reddish  brown  colour,  which  the  Indians  called 
yackah,  in  contradistinction  to  hohhost,  or  the  white 
bear.  This  induced  us  to  inquire  more  particularly 
into  their  opinions  as  to  the  several  species  of  bears; 
and  we  produced  all  the  skins  of  that  animal  which 
we  had  purchased.  The  natives  immediately  classed 
the  white,  the  deep  and  the  pale  grizzly  red,  the  griz- 
zly dark  brown,  in  short,  all  those  with  the  extremities 
of  the  hair  of  a  white  or  frosty  colour,  without  regard 
to  the  colour  of  the  ground  of  the  fur,  under  the  name 
of  hohhost.  They  assured  us  that  they  were  all  of  the 
same  species  with  the  white  bear;  that  they  associated 
together,  had  longer  nails  than  the  others,  and  never 
climbed  trees.  On  the  other  hand,  the  animals  with 
black  skins,  those  which  were  black  with  a  number  of 
entire  white  hairs  intermixed,  or  with  a  white  breast, 
the  uniform  bay,  and  the  brown  and  light  reddish 
brown,  they  range  under  the  class  yackah,  and  said 
they  resembled  each  other  in  being  smaller,  in  having" 
shorter  nails  than  the  white  bear,  in  climbing  trees, 
and  being  so  little  vicious  that  they  could  be  pursued 


DIFFERENT  SPECIES  OF  BEAR  75 

with  safety.  This  distinction  of  the  Indians  seemed 
to  be  well  founded,  and  we  were  inclined  to  believe, 

"  First,  that  the  white  or  grizzly  bear  of  this  neigh- 
bourhood form  a  distinct  species,  which,  moreover,  are 
the  same  with  those  of  the  same  colour  on  the  upper 
part  of  the  Missouri,  where  the  other  species  is  not 
found. 

"  Second,  that  the  black  and  reddish  brown,  &c., 
are  a  second  species,  equally  distinct  from  the  white 
bear  of  this  country,  and  from  the  black  bear  on  the 
Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans,  which  last  two  seem  to 
form  only  one  species.  The  common  black  bear  is 
indeed  unknown  in  this  country ;  for  the  bear  of  which 
we  are  speaking,  though  in  most  respects  similar,  dif- 
fers from  it  in  having  much  finer,  thicker,  and  longer 
hair,  with  a  greater  proportion  of  fur  mixed  with  it, 
and  also  in  having  a  variety  of  colo  trs,  while  the  com- 
mon black  bear  has  no  intermixture  or  change  of  col- 
our, but  is  of  a  uniform  black.  *  *  * 

"  In  the  course  of  the  day  the  natives  brought  us 
another  of  our  original  stock  of  horses,  of  which  we 
had  now  recovered  all  except  two ;  and  those,  we  were 
informed,  were  taken  back  by  our  Shoshonee  guide 
when  he  returned  home.  They  amounted  to  sixty-five, 
most  of  them  fine,  strong,  active  animals,  and  in  excel- 
lent order." 

The  next  day,  in  crossing  the  river,  they  had  the 
misfortune  to  lose  all  their  remaining  stock  of  mer- 
chandise. "  We  therefore,"  says  the  Journal,  "  cre- 
ated a  new  fund,  by  cutting  off  the  buttons  from  our 
clothes,  and  preparing  some  eye-water  and  basilicon, 
to  which  were  added  a  few  vials  and  small  tin  boxes, 


76      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

in  which  we  had  once  kept  phosphorus.  With  these 
articles  two  men  set  out  in  the  morning, 

"  June  2,  to  trade,  and  brought  home  three  bushels 
of  roots  and  some  bread.  In  the  mean  time  several 
hunters  were  sent  out.  The  Indians  informed  us  that 
there  were  great  numbers  of  moose  to  the  southeast 
of  the  east  branch  of  Lewis's  River,  which  they  called 
the  Tommanamah.  We  had  lately  heard,  also,  that 
some  Indians,  residing  at  a  considerable  distance,  on 
the  sbuth  side  of  the  Kooskooskee,  were  in  posses- 
sion of  two  tomahawks,  one  of  which  had  been  left 
at  our  camp  on  Moscheto  Creek,  and  the  other  had 
been  stolen  while  we  were  with  the  Chopunnish  in  the 
autumn.  This  last  we  were  anxious  to  obtain,  in  order 
to  give  it  to  the  relations  of  our  unfortunate  com- 
panion, Sergeant  Floyd,  to  whom  it  once  belonged. 
We  therefore  sent  Drewyer,  with  the  two  chiefs  Nee- 
shnepahkeeook  and  Hohastillpilp,  to  demand  it.  On 
their  arrival,  they  found  that  the  present  possessor  of 
it,  who  had  purchased  it  of  the  thief,  was  at  the  point 
of  death ;  and  his  relations  were  unwilling  to  give 
it  up,  as  they  wished  to  bury  it  in  the  grave  with  the 
deceased.  The  influence  of  Neeshnepahkeeook,  how- 
ever, at  length  prevailed ;  and  they  consented  to  surren- 
der the  tomahawk  on  receiving  two  strands  of  beads 
and  a  handkerchief  from  Drewyer,  and  from  each  of 
the  chiefs  a  horse,  to  be  killed  at  the  funeral  of  their 
kinsman,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  country. 

"  Soon  after  their  return,  Sergeant  Ordway  and  his 
party,  who  had  been  sent  to  procure  fish,  and  for  whose 
safety  we  had  become  extremely  anxious,  came  back 
from  Lewis's  River  with  some  roots  and  seventeen 
salmon.  The  distance,  however,  from  which  they  had 


IMPATIENCE  OF  PARTY  TO  LEAVE       77 

been  brought  was  so  great,  that  most  of  them  were 
nearly  spoiled ;  but  such  as  were  still  sound  were  very 
delicious,  the  flesh  being  of  a  fine  rose  colour,  with  a 
small  mixture  of  yellow,  and  so  fat  that  they  cooked 
perfectly  well  without  the  addition  of  any  oil  or 
grease."  *  *  * 

"  June  3.  Finding  that  the  salmon  did  not  yet  ap- 
pear along  the  shore,  as  the  Indians  had  assured  us 
they  would,  and  that  all  the  salmon  which  they  them- 
selves used  were  obtained  from  Lewis's  River,  we 
began  to  lose  our  hopes  of  subsisting  on  them.  We 
were  too  poor,  and  at  too  great  a  distance  from 
Lewis's  River  to  obtain  fish  from  thence;  and  it  was 
not  probable  that  the  river  would  fall  sufficiently  for 
the  salmon  to  reach  where  we  were  before  it  would  be 
necessary  for  us  to  leave.  Our  Indian  friends  were 
about  sending  an  express  over  the  mountains  to  Trav- 
eller's Rest,  in  order  to  procure  intelligence  from  the 
Ootlashoots,  a  band  of  Flatheads  who  have  wintered 
on  the  east  side  of  the  mountains;  and,  as  the  route 
was  deemed  practicable  for  this  express,  we  also  pro- 
posed setting  out.  The  Indians,  however,  dissuaded 
us  from  it,  as  many  of  the  creeks,  they  said,  were  still 
too  deep  to  be  forded,  the  roads  very  heavy  and  slip- 
pery, and  there  was  no  grass  yet  for  our  horses;  but 
that  in  twelve  or  fourteen  days  we  should  not  have 
these  obstacles  to  encounter."  *  *  * 

"  During  the  two  following  days  we  continued 
hunting  in  our  own  neighbourhood,  .and  by  means  of 
these  efforts,  and  trading  with  the  Indians  for  trifling 
articles,  we  succeeeded  in  procuring  as  much  bread 
and  roots,  besides  other  food,  as  would  enable  us  to 
subsist  while  crossing  the  mountains.  The  old  chief 


78      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

in  the  mean  time  gradually  recovered  the  use  of  his 
limbs,  and  our  own  man  was  nearly  restored  to  his 
former  kealth."  *  *  * 

The  next  day  they  were  informed  by  Neeshne- 
pahkeeook  that  his  people  would  not  accompany  them 
to  the  Missouri,  but  that  some  of  their  young  men,  as 
they  had  before  promised,  should  go  with  them. 


CHAPTER  V. 

They  join  in  the  Diversions  of  the  Willetpos  Indians,  a  Tribe  hitherto 
unnoticed. — Joy  of  the  Party  at  the  prospect  of  Returning. — Vegeta- 
tion of  the  Rocky  Mountains. — Preparations  to  resume  their  Journey. 
— They  set  out,  and  arrive  at  Hungry  Creek. — Difficulties  that  ob- 
structed their  Progress. — Compelled  to  return  and  wait  for  a  Guide 
across  the  Mountains. — Their  Distress  for  want  of  Provisions. — They 
resolve  to  return  to  the  Quamash  Flats. — Are  at  last  so  fortunate  as 
to  procure  Indian  Guides,  with  whom  they  resume  their  Journey. — 
Dangers  of  the  Route. — Scarcity  of  Provisions,  and  the  Perils  to  which 
they  were  exposed,  their  Course  lying  along  the  Ridge  of  the  Moun- 
tains.— Description  of  the  warm  Springs,  where  the  Party  encamp. — 
Fondness  of  the  Indians  for  bathing  in  them. 

ON  the  7th  they  were  engaged  in  preparing  packs 
and  saddles  for  their  journey,  having  now  re- 
solved to  start  as  soon  as  circumstances  would 
in  any  way  permit. 

"  June  8.  Cut  Nose  visited  us  this  morning  with 
ten  or  twelve  warriors,  among  whom  were  two  be- 
longing to  a  band  of  Chopunnish  which  we  had  not 
before  seen,  who  called  themselves  Willetpos,  and 
resided  on  the  south  side  of  Lewis's  River.  One  of 
them  gave  a  good  horse  which  he  rode  in  exchange 
for  one  of  ours,  which  was  in  no  condition  to  cross 
the  mountains,  on  receiving  a  tomahawk  in  addition. 

79 


so      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

We  were  also  so  fortunate  as  to  exchange  two  other 
horses  for  two  that  were  much  better,  without  giving 
anything  else.  After  these  important  transactions, 
several  foot-races  were  run  between  our  men  and 
the  Indians :  the  latter,  who  are  very  active,  and  fond 
of  these  races,  proved  themselves  very  expert,  and 
one  of  them  was  as  fleet  as  our  swiftest  runners.  After 
the  races  were  over,  the  men  divided  themselves  in- 
to two  parties,  and  played  at  prison  bars;  an  exercise 
which  we  were  desirous  of  encouraging,  as  several 
of  the  party  were  becoming  lazy  from  inaction.  At 
night  these  games  were  concluded  by  a  dance.  One 
of  the  Indians  told  us  that  we  could  not  pass  the  moun- 
tains before  the  next  full  moon,  or  about  the  first  of 
July;  and  that,  if  we  attempted  it  before  that  time, 
the  horses  would  be  three  days  without  food  on  the 
top  of  the  mountains.  This  intelligence  was  by  no 
means  agreeable,  as  it  excited  doubts  as  to  the  most 
proper  time  for  starting ;  but,  having  become  very  im- 
patient, we  were  determined  to  run  all  hazards,  and 
leave  as  soon  as  the  Indians  generally  considered 
the  route  practicable,  which  was  about  the  middle 
of  the  present  month. 

*  *  *  "  June  9.  Hohastillpilp,  who  had  visited  us 
the  day  before,  now  left  us,  with  other  Indians,  for 
the  plains  near  Lewis's  River,  where  the  whole  nation 
were  about  to  assemble.  Broken  Arm,  too,  with  all 
his  people,  stopped  on  their  way  to  the  general  ren- 
dezvous at  the  same  place.  Cut  Nose,  or  Neeshne- 
pahkeeook,  borrowed  a  horse,  and  rode  down  a  few 
miles  after  some  young  eagles.  He  soon  returned 
with  two  of  the  gray  kind,  nearly  grown,  which  he 
intended  to  raise  for  the  sake  of  the  feathers.  The 


CAMPING  AT  QUAMASH  FLATS  81 

young  chief  who  had  some  time  before  made  us  a 
present  of  two  horses,  came  with  a  party  of  his  people 
and  passed  the  night  with  us."  *  *  * 

The  river  had  now  fallen  about  six  feet,  which 
might  be  regarded  as  a  sure  indication  that  most  of 
the  snow  had  melted  on  the  mountains.  They  con- 
cluded, however,  that  it  would  be  most  prudent  still 
to  wait  a  day  or  two  longer  before  they  finally  set 
out  on  their  journey. 

"  June  10.  After  collecting  our  horses,"  proceeds 
the  Journal,  "  which  took  much  time,  we  set  out  at 
eleven  o'clock  for  the  Quamash  Flats.  Our  stock  was 
now  very  abundant,  each  man  being  well  mounted, 
with  a  small  load  on  a  second  horse,  besides  several 
supernumerary  ones,  in  case  of  accident  or  want  of 
food.  We  ascended  the  river  hills,  which  are  very 
high,  and  three  miles  in  extent ;  our  course  being  north 
22°  east,  and  then  north  15°  west  for  two  miles,  till 
we  reached  Collin's  Creek.  It  was  deep  and  difficult 
to  cross,  but  we  passed  without  any  injury  except 
wetting  some  of  our  provisions,  and  then  proceeded 
due  north  for  five  miles  to  the  eastern  edge  of  the 
Quamash  Flats,  near  where  we  had  first  met  the  Cho- 
punnish  im  the  autumn.  We  encamped  on  the  bank 
of  a  small  stream,  in  a  point  of  woods  bordering  an 
extensive  level  and  beautiful  prairie,  which  was  in- 
tersected by  several  rivulets,  and,  as  the  quamash  was 
now  in  blossom,  presented  a  perfect  resemblance  to 
a  lake  of  clear  water. 

"  A  party  of  Chopunnish,  who  had  overtaken  us 
a  few  miles  above,  halted  for  the  night  with  us,  and 
mentioned  that  they  too  had  come  down  to  hunt  in 


82      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

the  flats,  though  we  had  fears  that  they  expected  us 
to  provide  them  during  their  stay. 

"  The  country  through  which  we  passed  was  gen- 
erally free  from  stone,  extremely  fertile,  and  well 
supplied  with  timber,  consisting  of  several  species 
of  fir,  long-leafed  pine,  and  larch.  The  undergrowth 
was  chokecherry  near  the  water-courses,  and  scat- 
tered through  the  country  were  black  alder,  a  large 
species  of  the  reed-root  now  in  bloom,  a  plant  re- 
sembling the  pawpaw  in  its  leaf,  and  bearing  a  berry 
with  five  valves  of  a  deep  purple  colour.  There  were 
also  two  species  of  sumach,  the  purple  haw,  sevenbark, 
service-berry,  gooseberry,  the  honeysuckle  bearing  a 
whke  berry,  and  a  species  of  dwarf  pine  ten  or  twelve 
feet  high,  which  might  be  confounded  with  the  young 
pine  of  the  long-leafed  species,  except  that  the  former 
bears  a  cone  of  a  globular  form,  with  small  scales,  and 
that  its  leaves  are  in  fascicles  of  two  resembling  in 
length  and  appearance  the  common  pitch  pine.  We 
also  observed  two  species  of  wild  rose,  both  quin- 
quepetalous,  both  of  a  damask  red  colour,  and  simi- 
lar in  the  stem ;  but  one  of  them  was  as  large  as  the 
common  red  rose  of  our  gardens ;  its  leaf,  too,  is  some- 
what larger  than  that  of  the  other  species  of  wild  rose, 
and  the  apex,  as  we  saw  them  last  year,  was  more 
than  three  times  the  size  of  the  common  wild  rose. 

"  We  saw  many  sandhill  cranes,  and  some  ducks 
in  the  marshes  near  our  camp ;  likewise  a  great  number 
of  burrowing  squirrels,  some  of  which  we  killed,  and 
found  them  as  tender  and  well-flavoured  as  our  gray 
squirrels." 

The  hunters  were  sent  out  in  different  directions 
the  next  day,  but  with  very  indifferent  success.  Be- 


FERENT  SPECIES  OF  PLANTS  83 

ing  determined  to  start  in  earnest  in  the  morning, 
they  cut  up  and  dried  what  meat  they  had,  packed 
their  baggage,  and  hoppled  their  horses,  to  be  in  readi- 
ness at  an  early  hour. 

"  June  15.  The  horses,"  proceeds  the  Journal, 
"  had  strayed  to  such  a  distance  that  we  could  not 
collect  them  without  great  difficulty ;  and,  as  it  rained 
very  hard,  we  waited  for  it  to  abate.  It  soon,  how- 
ever, showed  every  appearance  of  a  settled  rain,  and 
we  therefore  set  out  at  ten  o'clock.  We  crossed  the 
prairie  at  the  distance  of  eight  miles,  where  we  had 
sent  our  hunters,  and  found  two  deer  which  they  had 
hung  up  for  us.  Two  and  a  half  miles  farther  we 
overtook  them  at  Collin's  Creek ;  they  had  killed  a 
third  deer.  After  dining,  we  proceeded  up  the  creek 
about  half  a  mile ;  then,  crossing  through  a  high, 
broken  country  for  about  ten  miles,  reached  an  eastern 
branch  of  the  same  creek,  near  which  we  encamped 
in  the  bottom,  after  a  ride  of  twenty-two  miles.  The 
rains  had  made  the  road  very  slippery,  and  this,  joined 
to  the  quantity  of  fallen  timber,  rendered  our  progress 
slow  and  laborious.  The  country  through  which  we 
passed  had  a  thick  growth  of  long-leafed  pine,  with 
some  pitch  pine,  larch,  white  pine,  white  cedar,  or  arbor 
vita  of  large  size,  and  a  variety  of  firs.  The  under- 
growth consisted  chiefly  of  reed-root,  from  six  to  ten 
feet  in  height,  with  the  other  species  already  enumer- 
ated. The  soil  was  in  general  good,  and  had  some- 
what of  a  red  cast,  like  that  near  the  Southwest  Moun- 
tain in  Virginia.  We  saw  in  the  course  of  our  ride 
the  speckled  woodpecker  and  the  bee-martin,  and 
found  the  nest  of  a  humming-bird  which  had  just  be- 
gun to  lay  its  eggs. 


84      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

"  June  16.  We  readily  collected  our  horses,  and, 
having  taken  breakfast,  proceeded  at  six  o'clock  up 
the  creek,  over  handsome  meadows  of  fine  grass, 
and  a  great  abundance  of  quamash.  At  the  distance 
of  two  miles  we  crossed  the  creek,  and  ascended  a 
ridge  in  a  direction  towards  the  northeast.  Fallen 
timber  still  obstructed  our  way  so  much,  that  it  was 
eleven  o'clock  before  we  had  made  seven  miles  to  a 
small  branch  of  Hungry  Creek.  In  the  hollows  and 
on  the  north  side  of  the  hills  large  quantities  of  snow 
still  remained,  in  some  places  to  the  depth  of  two  or 
three  feet.  Vegetation,  too,  was  proportionably  re- 
tarded, the  dog-tooth  violet  being  just  in  bloom,,  and 
the  honeysuckle,  whortleberry,  and  a  small  species 
of  white  maple  were  but  beginning  to  put  forth  their 
leaves.  These  appearances,  in  a  part  of  the  country 
comparatively  low,  were  ill  omens  of  the  practicabili- 
ty of  crossing  the  mountains.  But,  being  determined 
to  proceed,  we  halted  merely  to  take  a  hasty  meal  while 
the  horses  were  grazing,  and  then  resumed  our  march. 
The  route  was  through  thick  woods,  and  over  high 
hills  intersected  by  deep  ravines  and  obstructed  by 
fallen  timber.  We  found  much  difficulty,  also,  in  fol- 
lowing the  road,  the  greater  part  of  it  being  now  cov- 
ered with  snow,  which  lay  in  large  masses  eight  or 
ten  feet  deep,  and  would  have  been  wholly  impassable 
had  it  not  been  sufficiently  firm  to  bear  our  horses. 
Early  in  the  evening  we  reached  Hungry  Creek,  at 
the  place  where  Captain  Clarke  had  left  a  horse  for 
us  as  we  passed  in  September ;  and,  finding  a  small 
glade  with  some  grass,  though  not  enough  for  our 
horses,  we  thought  it  better  to  halt  for  the  night,  lest 
by  going  farther  we  should  find  nothing  for  them  to 


SNOW  STILL  COVERS  COUNTRY  85 

eat.  Hungry  Creek  was  small  at  this  place,  but  deep, 
and  discharged  a  torrent  of  water  perfectly  transpar- 
ent, and  cold  as  ice.  During  the  fifteen  miles  of  our 
-route  this  day  the  principal  timber  was  the  pitch  pine, 
the  white  pine,  larch,  and  fir.  The  long-leafed  pine 
extends  but  a  small  distance  on  this  side  of  Collin's 
Creek,  and  the  white  cedar  does  not  reach  beyond 
the  branch  of  Hungry  Creek  on  which  we  dined.  In 
the  early  part  of  the  day  we  saw  the  columbine,  the 
blue  bell,  and  the  yellow  flowering  pea  in  bloom. 
There  was  also  on  these  mountains  a  great  quantity 
of  angelica,  stronger  to  the  taste,  and  more  highly 
scented,  than  that  common  in  the  United  States.  The 
smell  is  very  pleasant,  and  the  natives,  after  drying 
and  cutting  it  into  small  pieces,  wear  it  in  strings 
around  their  necks. 

"June  17.  The  air  we  found  pleasant  during  the 
day,  but,  notwithstanding  the  shortness  of  the  nights, 
it  became  very  cold  before  morning.  At  an  early 
hour  we  collected  our  horses  and  proceeded  down 
the  creek,  which  we  crossed  twice  with  much  diffi- 
culty and  danger,  on  account  of  its  depth  and  rapidi- 
ty. We  avoided  two  other  crossings  of  the  same 
kind  by  passing  over  a  steep  and  rocky  hill.  At  the 
distance  of  seven  miles,  the  road  began  to  ascend 
the  main  ridges  which  divide  the  waters  of  the  Cho- 
punnish  and  Kooskooskee  Rivers.  We  followed  it  up 
a  mountain  for  about  three  miles,  when  we  found  our- 
selves enveloped  in  snow,  from  twelve  to  fifteen  feet 
in  depth,  even  on  the  south  side,  with  the  fullest  ex- 
posure to  the  sun.  Winter  now  presented  itself  to 
us  in  all  its  rigours :  the  air  was  keen  and  frosty,  no 
vestige  of  vegetation  was  to  be  seen,  and  our  hands 


86      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

and  feet  were  benumbed  with   cold.     We  halted   at 
the  sight  of  this  new  difficulty. 

"  To  wait  till  the  snows  on  the  mountains  had  dis- 
solved so  as  to  enable  us  to  distinguish  the  road, 
would  we  knew,  defeat  our  design  of  returning  to 
the  United  States  this  season.  We  found,  also,  that 
as  the  snow  bore  our  horses  very  well,  travelling 
was  infinitely  easier  than  it  had  been  last  fall,  when 
the  rocks  and  fallen  timber  so  much  obstructed  our 
march.  But  it  would  require  five  days  to  reach  the 
fish-wears  at  the  mouth  of  Colter's  Creek,  even  if  we 
should  succeed  in  following  the  proper  ridges  of  the 
mountains :  and  the  danger  of  missing  our  way  was 
exceedingly  great,  as  every  track  was  covered  with 
snow.  During  these  five  days,  too,  we  should  have 
no  chance  of  finding  either  grass  or  underwood  for 
our  horses.  To  proceed,  therefore,  under  such  cir- 
cumstances, would  be  to  hazard  our  being  bewildered 
ir*  the  mountains,  to  ensure  the  loss  of  our  horses, 
and,  should  we  even  be  so  fortunate  as  to  escape 
with  our  lives,  we  might  be  obliged  to  abandon  all 
our  papers  and  collections.  It  was  accordingly  de- 
cided not  to  venture  any  farther;  to  deposit  here  all 
the  baggage  and  provisions  for  which  we  had  no  im- 
mediate use,  and,  reserving  only  subsistence  for  a 
few  days,  return,  while  our  horses  were  yet  strong, 
to  some  spot  where  we  might  live  by  hunting  till  a 
guide  could  be  procured  to  conduct  us  across  the 
mountains.  Our  baggage  was  placed  on  scaffolds 
and  carefully  covered,  as  were  also  the  instruments 
and  papers,  which  we  thought  it  safer  to  leave  than 
to  risk  them  over  the  roads  and  creeks  by  which  we 
had  come.  Having  completed  this  operation,  we  set 


EFFORTS  TO  BECOME  A  GUIDE  87 

out  at  one  o'clock,  and,  retracing  our  steps,  reached 
Hungry  Creek,  which  we  ascended  for  two  miles,  and, 
finding  some  scanty  grass,  encamped  for  the  night, 
fhe  rain  fell  during  the  greater  part  of  the  evening 
and,  as  this  was  the  first  time  that  we  had  ever  been 
compelled  to  make  a  retrograde  movement,  we  feared 
that  it  might  depress  the  spirits  of  the  men ;  but, 
though  somewhat  dejected  at  the  circumstance,  the 
obvious  necessity  precluding  all  repining.  During  the 
night  our  horses  strayed  in  search  of  food  to  a  consider- 
able distance  among  the  thick  timber  on  the  hill  sides, 
nor  could  we  collect  them  till  nine  o'clock  the  next 
morning, 

"  June  18.  Two  of  them  were,  however,  still  miss- 
ing, and  we  directed  two  of  the  party  to  remain  and 
look  for  them.  At  the  same  time  we  despatched 
Drewyer  and  Shannon  to  the  Chopunnish,  in  the  plains 
beyond  the  Kooskooskee,  in  order  to  hasten  the  ar- 
rival of  the  Indians  who  it  had  been  promised  should 
accompany  us,  or,  at  any  rate,  to  procure  a  guide  to 
conduct  us  to  Traveller's  Rest.  For  this  purpose  they 
took  a  rifle,  as  a  reward  to  any  one  who  would  engage 
to  go  with  us,  with  directions  to  increase  the  reward,  if 
necessary,  by  an  offer  of  two  other  guns  to  be  given 
immediately,  and  ten  horses  at  the  Falls  of  the 
Missouri :  we  then  resumed  our  route."  *  *  *  They 
proceeded  on  to  Collin's  Creek,  where  they  halted  for 
the  night.  Although  numerous  tracks  of  deer  were 
seen,  the  hunters  did  not  succeed  in  killing  any. 

They  remained  at  their  encampment  on  Collin's 
Creek  the  two  following  days,  but,  as  they  had  but 
little  success  in  procuring  game,  they  resolved  to 
return  to  Quamash  Flats.  On  the  19th,  the  two  men 

M.  ot  H.— XXIX— 18 


88      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

who  had  been  left  behind  returned,  without  having 
been  able  to  find  the  missing  horses. 

"  June  21.  The  mortification  of  being  obliged  to 
retrace  our  steps,"  continues  the  Journal,  "  rendered 
still  more  tedious  a  route  everywhere  so  obstructed 
by  brush  and  fallen  timber  that  it  could  not  be  passed 
without  difficulty,  and  even  danger  to  our  horses. 
One  of  these  poor  creatures  wounded  himself  so  badly 
in  jumping  over  some  fallen  logs,  that  he  was  ren- 
dered unfit  for  use,  and  sickness  had  deprived  us  of 
the  service  of  another.  At  the  pass  of  Collin's  Creek 
we  met  two  Indians,  who  returned  with  us  about 
half  a  mile  to  a  spot  where  we  had  slept  in  September, 
and  where  we  now  halted  to  dine  and  let  our  horses 
graze.  These  Indians  had  four  supernumerary  horses, 
and  were  on  their  way  to  cross  the  mountains.  They 
had  not  seen  Drewyer  and  Shannon,  who,  they  said, 
would  not  return  for  two  days.  We  pressed  them  to 
remain  with  us  till  that  time,  in  order  to  conduct  us 
over  the  mountains ;  to  which  they  consented,  and  de- 
posited their  stores  of  roots  and  bread  in  the  bushes 
at  a  little  distance.  After  dinner  we  left  three  men  to 
hunt  till  our  return,  and  then  proceeded ;  but  we  had 
not  gone  more  than  two  miles,  when  the  Indians  halted 
in  a  small  prairie,  where  they  promised  to  remain  at 
least  two  nights,  if  we  did  not  come  back  sooner.  We 
left  them,  and  at  about  seven  in  the  evening  found  our- 
selves at  our  old  encampment  on  the  Flats,  and  were 
glad  to  find  that  four  of  the  hunters  whom  we  had  sent 
ahead  had  killed  a  deer  for  supper. 

"  June  22.  At  daylight  all  the  hunters  set  out,  and, 
traversing  the  whole  country,  were  much  more  suc- 
cessful than  we  had  even  hoped,  for  they  brought  in 


THEY  OBTAIN  TWO  INDIAN  GUIDES       99 

eight  deer  and  three  bear.  Hearing,  too,  that  salmon 
were  now  abundant  in  the  Kooskooskee,  we  despatched 
a  man  to  our  former  station  above  Collin's  Creek,  for 
the  purpose  of  purchasing  some  with  a  few  beads  which 
had  been  found  accidentally  in  one  of  our  waistcoat 
pockets.  He  did  not  return  in  the  evening,  nor  had 
we  heard  from  Drewyer  and  Shannon,  who  we  began 
to  fear  had  found  much  difficulty  in  engaging  a  guide ; 
and  we  were  also  apprehensive  that  the  two  Indians 
might  set  out  the  next  day  for  the  mountains.  Early 
in  the  morning,  therefore, 

"  June  23,  we  despatched  two  hunters  to  prevail 
on  them,  if  possible,  to  remain  a  day  or  two  longer ; 
and  if  they  persisted  in  going  on,  they  were  to  ac- 
company them,  with  the  three  men  at  Collin's  Creek, 
and  mark  the  route  as  far  as  Traveller's  Rest,  where 
they  were  to  remain  till  we  joined  them  by  following 
the  same  road. 

"  Our  fears  for  the  safety  of  Drewyer,  Shannon,  and 
Whitehouse  were  fortunately  relieved  by  their  return 
in  the  afternoon.  The  former  brought  three  Indians, 
who  promised  to  go  with  us  to  the  Falls  of  the 
Missouri  for  the  compensation  of  two  guns.  One  of 
them  was  the  brother  of  Cut  Nose,  and  the  other  two 
had  each  given  us  a  horse  at  the  house  of  Broken  Arm ; 
and  as  they  were  men  of  good  character,  and  respect- 
able in  the  nation,  we  had  the  fairest  prospect  of  being 
well  served.  We  therefore  secured  our  horses  near  the 
camp,  and  at  an  early  hour  the  next  morning, 

"  June  24,  set  out  on  our  second  attempt  to  cross 
the  mountains.  On  reaching  Collin's  Creek  we  found 
only  one  of  our  men,  who  informed  us  that,  a  short 
time  before  he  arrived,  the  two  Indians,  tired  of  wait- 


90      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

ing,  had  set  out,  and  the  other  four  men  had  accompa- 
nied them,  as  they  were  directed.  After  halting,  we 
went  on  to  Fish  Creek,  the  branch  of  Hungry  Creek 
where  we  had  slept  on  the  19th  instant.  Here  we 
overtook  two  of  the  party  who  had  gone  on  with  the 
Indians,  and  who  had  been  fortunate  enough  to  per- 
suade them  to  wait  for  us.  During  their  stay  at 
Collin's  Creek  they  had  killed  only  a  single  deer,  and 
of  this  they  had  been  very  liberal  to  the  Indians,  in 
order  to  induce  them  to  remain,  so  that  they  were 
without  provisions;  and  two  of  them  had  set  out  for 
another  branch  of  Hungry  Creek,  where  we  should 
meet  them  the  next  day. 

"  In  the  evening,  the  Indians,  to  bring  fair  weather, 
as  they  said  for  our  journey,  set  fire  to  the  woods. 
As  these  consisted  chiefly  of  tall  fir-trees,  with  very 
numerous  dried  branches,  the  blaze  was  almost  in- 
stantaneous, and  as  the  flames  mounted  to  the  tops 
of  the  highest  trees,  it  resembled  a  splendid  display  of 
fireworks.  In  the  morning, 

"  June  25,  one  of  our  guides  complained  of  being 
sick :  a  symptom  by  no  means  pleasant,  as  sickness 
with  an  Indian  is  generally  the  pretext  for  abandon- 
ing an  enterprise  which  he  dislikes.  He  promised, 
however,  to  overtake  us,  and  we  therefore  left  him 
with  his  two  companions,  and  set  out  at  an  early 
hour.  At  eleven  o'clock  we  halted  for  dinner  at  the 
branch  of  Hungry  Creek,  and  here  we  found  our  two 
men,  who  had  killed  nothing.  Here,  too,  we  were 
joined,  rather  unexpectedly,  by  our  guides,  who  now 
appeared  disposed  to  be  faithful  to  their  engagements. 
The  Indian,  indeed,  was  really  sick ;  and  having  no 
covering  except  a  pair  of  moccasins  and  an  elkskin 


CROSSING  MOUNTAINS  DIFFICULT        91 

dressed  without  the  hair,  we  supplied  him  with  a  buf- 
falo robe. 

"  In  the  evening  we  arrived  at  Hungry  Creek,  and 
halted  for  the  night  about  a  mile  and  a  half  below 
our  encampment  on  the  16th. 

"  Tune  26.  Having  collected  our  horses  and  taken 
breakfast,  we  set  out  at  six  o'clock,  pursuing  our  former 
route,  and  at  length  began  to  ascend  for  the  second 
time  the  ridge  of  mountains.  Near  the  snowy  region 
we  killed  two  small  black  pheasants  and  one  of  the 
speckled  kind.  These  birds  generally  frequent  the 
higher  parts  of  the  mountains,  where  they  feed  on 
the  leaves  of  the  pine  and  fir ;  but  both  kinds  appear 
to  be  solitary  and  silent,  as  we  never  heard  either  of 
them  make  any  noise;  and  the  Indians  told  us  that 
they  did  not  drum  in  flying,  nor  make  a  whirring  sound 
with  their  wings.  On  reaching  the  top  of  the  moun- 
tain we  found  our  deposit  perfectly  safe.  The  snow 
rin  the  neighbourhood  had  melted  nearly  four  feet 
since  the  17th.  By  measuring  it  accurately,  and  com- 
paring it  with  the  mark  which  we  had  then  made,  we 
found  the  general  depth  to  have  been  ten  feet  ten  in- 
ches, though  in  some  places  still  greater;  but  at  this 
time  it  was  about  seven  feet.  It  required  two  hours 
to  arrange  our  baggage  and  prepare  a  hasty  meal, 
after  which  the  guides  urged  us  to  set  off,  as  we  had  a 
long  ride  to  make  before  we  should  reach  a  spot  where 
there  was  grass  for  our  horses.  We  accordingly 
mounted,  and,  following,'  their  steps,  sometimes  crossed 
abruptly  steep  hills,  and  then  wound  along  their  sides, 
near  tremendous  precipices,  where,  had  our  horses 
!  slipped,  we  should  have  beer:  irrecoverably  lost.  Our 
route  lay  along  the  ridgy  mountains  which  separate 


92      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

the  waters  of  the  Kooskooskee  and  Chopunnish,  and 
above  the  heads  of  all  the  streams,  so  that  we  met] 
no  running  water.    The  whole  country  was  completely! 
covered  with  snow,  except  occasionally  a  few  square 
feet  of  earth  at  the  roots  of  some  trees,  round  which 
it  had  dissolved.    We  passed  our  camp  of  the  18th  of  I 
September,   and   late   in   the   evening  reached   a   spot! 
where  we  encamped,  near  a  good  spring  of  water.     It  I 
was  on  the  steep  side  of  a  mountain,  with  no  wood,! 
and   a    fair   southern    aspect,    from    which    the    snow 
seemed  to  have  disappeared  for  about  ten  days,  and 
an  abundant  growth  of  young  grass,  like  greensward, 
had  sprung  up.    There  was  also  a  species  of  grass  not 
unlike  flag,  with  a  broad  succulent  leaf,  and  which  is 
confined  to  the  upper  parts  of  the  highest  mountains. 
It  is  a  favourite  food  with  horses,  but  it  was  then  either 
covered   with   snow,   or  just   making  its   appearance. 
There  is  a  third  plant  peculiar  to  the  same  regions, 
a  species   of  whortleberry;  and  there  are   also  large 
quantities  of  a  species  of  bear-grass,  which,  though 
it   grows   luxuriantly   over   all   these   mountains,   and 
preserves  its  verdure  during  the  whole  winter,  is  never 
eaten  by  horses. 

"  In  the  night  there  came  to  our  camp  a  Chopun- 
nish, who  had  followed  us  with  the  view  of  accom- 
panying us  to  the  Falls  of  the  Missouri.  We  now 
learned  that  the  two  young  Indians  whom  we  had 
met  on  the  21st,  and  detained  several  days,  were 
merely  going  on  a  party  of  pleasure  to  the  Ootlashoots, 
or,  as  they  call  them,  Shallees,  a  band  of  Tushepahs 
who  live  on  Clarke's  River,  near  Traveller's  Rest. 
Early  the  next  morning, 

"  June  27,  we  resumed  our  journey  over  the  heights 


HARDNESS  OF  THE  SNOW  93 

and  steep  hills  of  the  same  great  ridge.  At  eight 
miles'  distance  we  reached  an  eminence  where  the 
Indians  had  raised  a  conical  mound  of  stone,  six  or 
eight  feet  high,  on  which  was  fixed  a  pine  pole  about 
fifteen  feet  high.  Here  we  halted  and  smoked  for 
some  time  at  the  request  of  the  Indians,  who  told  us 
that,  in  passing  the  mountains  with  their  families,  some 
men  are  usually  sent  on  foot  from  this  place  to  fish 
at  the  entrance  of  Colt  Creek,  rejoining  the  main 
party  at  the  Ruamash  Glade  at  the  head  of  the  Koos- 
kooskee.  From  the  elevated  point  where  we  now 
were,  we  had  a  commanding  view  of  the  surrounding 
mountains,  which  so  completely  enclosed  us,  that,  al- 
though we  had  once  passed  them,  we  might  have  al- 
most despaired  of  ever  escaping  from  them  but  for 
the  assistance  of  the  Indians.  The  marks  on  the  trees, 
which  had  been  our  chief  dependence,  were  much  fewer 
and  more  difficult  to  be  distinguished  than  we  had 
expected ;  but  our  guides  traversed  this  trackless  region 
with  a  kind  of  instinctive  sagacity :  they  never  hesi- 
tated, nor  were  they  ever  embarrassed ;  and  so  unerring 
was  their  course,  that  wherever  the  snow  had  disap- 
peared for  even  a  hundred  paces,  they  found  at  once 
the  summer  road.  With  their  aid  the  snow  was  scarce- 
ly a  disadvantage;  for,  although  we  were  often  obliged 
to  slide  down,  the  fallen  timber  and  the  rocks,  which 
were  now  covered,  had  been  much  more  troublesome 
when  we  passed  in  the  autumn.  The  travelling  was, 
indeed,  comparatively  pleasant,  as  well  as  more  rapid, 
the  snow  being  granular  and  without  crust,  and  suffi- 
ciently hard  to  prevent  the  horses  from  sinking  more 
than  two  or  three  inches.  After  the  sun  had  been  on 
it  for  some  hours  it  became  softer  than  early  in  the 


94      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

morning,  but  the  horses  were  almost  always  able  to 
get  a  sure  foothold. 

"  After  some  time  we  resumed  our  route,  and  at 
the  distance  of  three  miles  descended  a  steep  moun- 
tain, when,  crossing  two  branches  of  the  Chopunnish 
River  just  above  their  forks,  we  began  to  mount  a 
second  ridge.  Along  this  we  proceeded  for  some 
time,  and  at  the  distance  of  seven  miles  reached  our 
camp  of  the  16th  of  September.  Near  this  place  we 
crossed  three  small  branches  of  the  Chopunnish,  and 
then  ascended  a  second  dividing  ridge,  along  which 
we  continued  for  nine  miles,  when  it  became  somewhat 
lower,  and  we  halted  for  the  night  in  a  position  similar 
to  that  where  we  had  encamped  the  preceding  even- 
ing. 

"  We  had  now  travelled  twenty-eight  miles  with- 
out taking  the  loads  from  our  horses  or  giving  them 
anything  to  eat;  and  as  the  snow  where  we  halted  had 
not  entirely  melted,  there  was  but  little  grass.  Among 
other  plants  we  observed  great  quantities  of  the  white 
lily,  with  reflected  petals,  which  were  now  in  bloom, 
and  in  the  same  forwardness  as  in  the  plains  on  the  10th 
of  May.  As  for  ourselves,  our  stock  of  meat  being  en- 
tirely gone,  we  distributed  to  each  mess  a  pint  of  bear's 
oil,  which,  with  some  boiled  roots,  made  an  agreeable 
repast.  We  saw  several  black-tailed  or  mule-deer,  but 
could  not  get  a  shot  at  them,  and  were  informed  that 
there  were  great  numbers  of  elk  in  the  valley,  near  the 
fishery  on  the  Kooskooskee.  The  Indians  also  asserted 
that  on  the  mountains  to  our  right  there  were  large 
numbers  of  what  they  call  white  buffalo,  or  mountain 
sheep.  Our  horses  had  strayed  some  distance  in  quest 
of  food,  and  in  the  morning, 


SCARCITY  OF  FOOD  FOR  HORSES         95 

"  June  28,  when  they  were  brought  in,  exhibited 
rather  a  gaunt  appearance.  The  Indians  promised, 
however,  that  we  should  reach  some  good  grass  by 
noon,  and  we  set  out  after  an  early  breakfast.  Our 
route  lay  along  the  dividing  ridge  and  across  a  very 
deep  hollow,  till  at  the  distance  of  six  miles  we  reached 
our  camp  of  the  15th  of  September.  A  mile  and  a  half 
farther  we  passed  a  road  from  the  right,  immediately 
on  the  dividing  ridge,  leading  to  the  fishery.  We  went 
on,  as  we  had  done  during  the  former  part  of  the  route, 
over  deep  snows,  when,  having  made  thirteen  miles, 
we  came  to  the  side  of  a  mountain  just  above  the 
fishery,  which,  having  no  timber  and  a  southern  ex- 
posure, the  snow  had  disappeared  from  it,  and  there 
was  an  abundance  of  fine  grass.  Our  horses  were  very 
hungry  as  well  as  greatly  fatigued,  and  as  there  was 
no  other  spot  within  our  reach  this  evening  where  we 
could  find  food  for  them,  we  determined  to  encamp, 
though  it  was  not  yet  midday.  As  there  was  no  water 
in  the  neighbourhood,  we  melted  snow  for  cooking, 
and  early  in  the  morning, 

"  June  29,  continued  along  the  ridge  we  had  been 
following  for  several  days,  till  at  the  end  of  five  miles 
it  terminated ;  and  now,  bidding  adieu  to  the  snows 
which  we  had  been  traversing,  we  descended  to  the 
main  branch  of  the  Kooskooskee.  On  reaching  the 
water  side  we  found  a  deer  which  had  been  left  for  us 
by  two  of  our  hunters,  who  had  been  dispatched  at 
an  early  hour  to  the  warm  springs,  and  which  proved 
a  very  seasonable  addition  to  our  food;  for,  having 
neither  meat  nor  oil,  we  were  reduced  to  a  diet  of 
roots,  without  salt  or  any  other  addition.  At  this 
place  (about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  point  where 


96      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

Quamash  Creek  falls  in  from  the  northeast)  the  Koos- 
kooskee  is  about  thirty  yards  wide,  and  runs  with 
great  velocity  over  a  bed,  like  those  of  all  the  moun- 
tain streams,  composed  of  pebbles.  We  forded  the 
river,  and  ascended  for  two  miles  the  steep  acclivities 
of  a  mountain,  and  at  its  summit  found,  coming  in 
from  the  right,  the  old  road  which  we  had  passed  on 
our  route  in  the  autumn.  It  was  now  much  plainer 
and  more  beaten,  which  the  Indians  told  us  was  owing 
to  the  frequent  visits  of  the  Ootlashoots  from  the  val- 
ley of  Clarke's  River  to  the  fishery,  though  there  was 
no  appearance  of  their  having  been  here  this  spring. 
Twelve  miles  from  our  camp  we  halted  to  graze  our 
horses  on  the  flats  of  the  Quamash  Creek.  These 
form  a  handsome  plain  of  fifty  acres  in  extent,  cov- 
ered with  an  abundance  of  quamash,  and  seem  to  be 
one  of  the  principal  stopping  places  of  the  Indians  in 
crossing  the  mountains.  We  saw  here  several  young 
pheasants,  and  killed  one  of  the  small  black  kind, 
which  was  the  first  we  had  observed  below  the  region 
of  snow.  In  the  neighbourhood  were  also  seen  the 
tracks  of  two  barefoot  Indians,  which  our  companions 
supposed  to  be  Ootlashoots  who  had  fled  in  distress 
from  the  Pahkees.  Here,  too,  we  discovered  that  two 
of  our  horses  were  missing.  We  sent  two  men  in 
quest  of  them,  and  then  went  on  seven  miles  farther 
to  the  warm  springs,  where  we  arrived  early  in  the 
afternoon.  The  two  hunters  who  had  been  sent  for- 
ward in  the  morning  had  collected  no  game,  nor  were 
several  others  who  went  out  after  our  arrival  more 
successful.  We  therefore  had  a  prospect  of  continu- 
ing our  usual  diet  of  roots,  when  late  in  the  afternoon 


WARM  SPRINGS  97 

the  men  returned  with  the  stray  horses  and  a  deer 
for  supper. 

"  These  warm  springs  are  situated  at  the  foot  of 
a  hill  on   the   north   side   of  Traveller's   Rest   Creek, 
which  is  ten  yars  wide  at  this  place.    They  issue  from 
the   bottoms   and   through   the   interstices   of   a   gray 
freestone  rock,  which  rises  in  irregular  masses  round 
their  lower  side.     The  principal  spring,  which  the  In- 
dians have  formed  into  a  bath  by  stopping  the  run 
with  stones  and  pebbles,  is  of  about  the  same  temper- 
ature as  the  warmest  bath  used  at  the  Hot  Springs  in 
Virginia.     Captain  Lewis  could  with  difficulty  remain 
in  it  nineteen  minutes,  and  was  then  affected  with 
<a  profuse  perspiration.     The  two  other  springs  are 
much  hotter,  their  temperature  being  equal  to  that 
!of  the  warmest  of  the  Hot  Springs  in  Virginia.     Our 
men,  as  well  as  the  Indians,  amused  themselves  with 
,  going  into  the  bath :  the  latter,  according  to  the  uni- 
[versal  custom  among  them,  first  entering  the  hot  bath, 
where  they  remained  as  long  as  they  could  bear  the 
|  heat,  then  plunging  into  the  creek,  which  was  now  of 
tan  icy  coldness,  and  repeating  this  operation  several 
times,  but  always  ending  with  the  warm  bath." 


CHAPTER  VI. 

The  Party,  proceeding  on  their  Journey  with  their  Indian  Guides,  agree 
to  divide,  take  separate  Routes,  and  meet  again, at  the  Mouth  of  the 
Yellowstone  River. — Captain  Lewis,  with  nine  Men,  proceeds  up  the 
eastern  Branch  of  Clarke's  River,  and  takes  leave  of  the  Indian  Guides. 
Description  of  that  Branch,  and  Character  of  the  surrounding  Country. 
— The  Cokalahishkit  River. — They  arrive  at  the  Ridge  dividing  the 
Missouri  from  the  Columbia  River. — Meet  with  the  Buffalo  and  Brown 
Bear. — Immense  Herds  of  Buffalo  seen  on  the  Borders  of  Medicine 
River. — The  Party  encamp  on  White  Bear  Island. — Singular  Adven- 
ture that  befell  M'Neil. — Captain  Lewis,  with  three  of  his  Party, 
proceeds  to  explore  the  Source  of  Maria's  River. — Tansy  River. — 
He  reaches  the  dividing  Line  of  these  two  Streams. — General  Character 
of  the  surrounding  Country. 

THE  next  day  they  proceeded  along  Traveller's 
Rest    Creek,    and,    after    making    thirty-two 
miles,  halted  for  the  night  on  its  south  side, 
near  where  it  enters  Clarke's  River.     In  the  course  of 
the  day  they  killed  six  deer,  of  which  there  wrere  great 
numbers,  as  well  as  bighorn  and  elk,  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. 

"  July  1.  We  had  now,"  continues  the  Journal, 
"  made  one  hundred  and  fifty-six  miles  from  the  Qua- 
mash  Flats  to  the  mouth  of  Traveller's  Rest  Creek. 
Here  we  proposed  to  separate ;  and  it  was  accordingly 
resolved  to  remain  a  day  or  two,  to  refresh  ourselves 
a$d  the  horses,  which  had  borne  the  journey  ex- 
tremely well,  and  were  still  in  fine  order,  though  they 

98 


PARTY  TAKE  DIFFERENT  ROUTES         99 

required  a  little  rest.  We  had  hoped  to  meet  som£  of 
the  Ootlashoots  at  this  place,  but  no  tracks  of  them 
were  to  be  seen.  Our  Indian  companions  expressed 
much  anxiety  lest  they  should  have  been  cut  off  by 
the  Pahkees  during  the  winter,  and  alluded  to  the 
tracks  of  the  two  barefooted  persons  as  a  proof  how 
much  they  must  have  been  distressed. 

"  We  now  formed  the  following  plan  of  operations : 
Captain  Lewis,  with  nine  men,  was  to  pursue  the 
most  direct  route  to  the  Falls  of  the  Missouri,  where 
three  of  his  party  were  to  be  left,  to  prepare  carriages 
for  transporting  the  baggage  and  canoes  across  the 
portage.  With  the  remaining  six  he  was  to  ascend 
Maria's  River,  to  explore  the  country,  and  ascertain 
whether  any  branch  of  it  reached  as  far  north  as  the 
latitude  of  fifty  degrees,  after  which  he  would  de- 
scend that  river  to  its  mouth.  The  rest  of  the  party 
were  to  accompany  Captain  Clarke  to  the  head  of  Jef- 
ferson River,  which  Sergeant  Ordway  and  nine  men 
would  descend  with  the  canoes  and  other  articles  de- 
posited there.  Captain  Clarke's  party,  which  would 
then  be  reduced  to  ten,  would  proceed  to  the  Yellow- 
stone at  its  nearest  approach  to  the  Three  Forks  of 
the  Missouri,  where  he  would  build  canoes,  descend 
the  river  with  seven  of  his  party,  and  wait  at  its 
mouth  till  the  rest  should  join  him.  Sergeant  Pryor, 
with  the  two  others,  would  take  the  horses  by  land 
to  the  Mandans,  and  from  that  nation  go  to  the  Brit- 
ish posts  on  the  Assiniboin,  with  a  letter  to  Mr. 
Henry,  to  induce  him  to  endeavour  to  prevail  on  some 
of  the  Sioux  chiefs  to  accompany  him  to  the  city  of 
Washington." 

Having    concluded    on    these    arrangements,    they 


loo     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

busied  themselves  with  putting  their  arms  in  order: 
the  hunters  were  also  sent  out,  and  hac!  good  success 
in  killing  deer. 

''  The  Indians  who  had  accompanied  us,"  pro- 
ceeds the  narrative,  "  proposed  leaving  us  here,  in 
order  to  seek  their  friends  the  Ootlashoots ;  but  we  pre- 
vailed on  them  to  accompany  Captain  Lewis  a  part 
of  his  route,  so  as  to  show  him  the  shortest  road  to 
the  Missouri,  and  in  the  mean  time  amused  them  with 
conversation,  and  with  running  races  both  on  foot 
and  on  horseback,  in  both  of  which  they  proved  them- 
selves hardy,  athletic,  and  active.  To  the  chief  Cap- 
tain Lewis  presented  a  small  medal  and  a  gun,  as 
a  reward  for  having  guided  us  across  the  mountains: 
and,  in  return,  the  customary  civility  was  observed 
of  exchanging  names,  by  which  the  former  acquired 
the  title  of  Yomekollick,  or  White  Bear  Skin  Un- 
folded. The  Chopunnish  who  had  overtaken  us  on 
the  26th  made  us  a  present  of  an  excellent  horse  for 
the  good  advice  we  had  given  him,  and  as  a  proof, 
also,  of  his  attachment  to  the  whites,  and  of  his  desire 
to  be  at  peace  with  the  Pahkees.  The  next  morning, 

"  July  3,  all  our  preparations  being  completed,  we 
saddled  our  horses,  and  the  two  parties  which  had 
been  so  long  companions  now  separated,  with  an 
anxious  hope  of  soon  meeting,  after  each  had  ac- 
complished its  destined  purpose. 

"  The  nine  men  and  five  Indians  who  accompanied 
Captain  Lewis  proceeded  in  <i  direction  due  north, 
down  the  west  side  of  Clarke's  River.  Half  a  mile 
from  the  camp  we  forded  Traveller's  Rest  Creek, 
and  two  and  a  half  miles  farther  passed  a  western 


CROSSING  THE  RIVER  101 

branch  of  the  river;  one  mile  beyond  this  was  a 
small  creek  on  the  eastern  side,  and  a  mile  lower 
down,  the  entrance  of  the  eastern  branch  of  the  river. 
This  stream  is  from  ninety  to  one  hundred  and  twenty 
yards  wide,  and  its  waters,  which  are  discharged 
|hrough  two  channels,  were  more  turbid  than  that 
the  main  river.  The  latter  is  one  hundred  and  fifty 
yards  in  width,  and  waters  an  extensive  level  plain 
and  prairie,  the  lower  parts  of  which  are  ornamented 
fyith  the  long-leafed  pine  and  cotton-wood,  while  the 
lops  of  the  hills  are  covered  with  pine,  larch,  and  fir. 
We  proceeded  two  miles  farther,  to  a  place  where 
the  Indians  advised  us  to  cross ;  but,  havingj  no  boats, 
and  wood  being  scarce,  four  hours  were  spent  in  col- 
lecting sufficient  timber  to  make  three  small  rafts, 
on  which,  with  some  difficulty  and  danger,  we  passed 
the  river.  We  then  drove  our  horses  into  the  water, 
and  they  swam  to  the  opposite  shore ;  but  the  Indians 
crossed  on  horseback,  drawing,  at  the  same  time, 
their  baggage  alongside  of  them,  in  small  vessels 
tnade  of  deerskin.  The  whole  party  being  now  re- 
assembled, we  proceeded  three  miles  farther,  and  en- 
camped about  sunset  at  a  small  creek.  The  Indians 
now  pointed  out  to  us  a  road  at  no  great  distance, 
which,  they  said,  would  lead  up  the  eastern  branch 
of  Clarke's  River,  to  another  river  called  Cokala- 
hishkit,  or  the  River  of  the  Road  to  the  Buffaloes,  and 
thence  to  Medicine  River  and  the  Falls  of  the  Missouri. 
They  added,  that  not  far  from  the  dividing  ridge  of 
the  waters  of  Clarke's  River  and  the  Missouri  the 
roads  forked,  and,  though  both  led  to  the  Falls,  the 
left-hand  route  was  the  best.  The  road  was  so  well 
beaten  that  we  could  no  longer  mistake  it,  and,  having 


102     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

now  shown  us  the  way,  they  were  anxious  to  go  on 
in  quest  of  their  friends  the  Shakes;  besides  which, 
they  feared,  .by  venturing  farther  with  us,  that  they 
might  encounter  the  Pahkees,  we  having  in  the  after- 
noon seen  the  fresh  track  of  a  horse,  which  they  be- 
lieved to  be  that  of  a  Shalee  scout.  We  could  not 
insist  on  their  remaining  longer  with  us ;  and  as  they 
had  so  kindly  conducted  us  across  the  mountains, 
we  were  desirous  of  giving  them  a  supply  of  provi- 
sions, and  therefore  distributed  to  them  the  half  of 
three  deer,  and  our  hunters  were  ordered  to  go  out 
early  in  the  morning  in  hopes  of  adding  to  the  stock. 

"  The  horses  suffered  so  dreadfully  from  the  mos-j 
chetoes,  that  we  were  obliged  to  kindle  large  fires,! 
and  place  the  poor  animals  in  the  midst  of  the 
smoke."  *  *  * 

"  July  4.  We  smoked  a  farewell  pipe  with  our  es- 
timable Indian  companions,  who  expressed  the  great- 
est regret  at  parting  with  us,  which  they  felt  the 
more,  because  of  their  fears,  which  they  did  not  con- 
ceal, of  our  being  cut  off  by  the  Pahkees.  We  also 
gave  them  a  shirt,  a  handkerchief,  and  a  small  quan- 
tity of  ammunition.  The  meat  which  they  received 
from  us  they  dried,  and  left  it  at  this  place  as  a  stock 
for  their  homeward  journey.  TJrio  circumstance 
convinced  us  that  there  was  no  route  along  Clark's 
River  to  the  plains  on  the  Columbia  so  near  or  so 
good  as  that  by  which  we  had  come ;  for,  although 
these  people  meant  to. go  several  days'  journey  down 
the  former  river  to  look  for  the  Shalees,  yet  they 
intended  returning  home  by  the  same  pass  of  the 
mountains  through  which  they  had  conducted  us. 
This  route  is  used  also  by  all  the  nations  with  whom 


PRAIRIE  OF  THE  KNOBS  103 

we  became  acquainted  west  of  the  mountains  that  are 
in  the  habit  of  visiting  the  plains  of  the  Missouri ;  while, 
on  the  other  side,  all  the  war-paths  of  the  Pahkees, 
which  run  into  this  valley  of  Clarke's  River,  concentrate 
at  Traveller's  Rest,  beyond  which  these  people  have  never 
ventured  to  the  west."  *  *  * 

After  taking  leave  of  their  Indian  friends,  they 
proceeded  up  the  eastern  branch  of  Clarke's  River 
for  ten  miles,  when  they  came  to  the  Cokalahiskit, 
a  deep  and  rapid  stream,  sixty  yards  broad,  empty- 
ing into  it ;  and  turning  up  this  stream  in  a  due  east 
course,  at  the  distance  of  eight  miles  they  encamped 
for  the  night. 

The  road  continued  to  extend  along  this  river  most 
of  the  following  day,  during  which  they  came  to  a 
considerable  stream  emptying  into  it  from  the  north, 
which  they  called  Werner's  Creek ;  and,  after  making  a 
distance  of  twenty  eight  miles,  they  encamped  near  the 
entrance  to  another  creek,  to  which  they  gave  the  name 
of  Seaman's  Creek.  The  country  through  which  they 
passed  consisted  of  plains  and  prairies. 

"July  6.  At  sanrise,"  proceeds  the  Journal,  "we 
continued  our  course  eastward  along  the  river.  At 
seven  miles'  -  distance  we  passed  the  north  fork  of 
the  Cokalahiskit,  a  deep  and  rapid  stream,  forty- 
five  yards  in  width,  and,  like  the  main  branch  itself, 
somewhat  turbid,  though  the  other  streams  of  this 
country  are  clear.  Seven  miles  farther  the  river 
enters  the  mountains,  and  here  end  the  extensive 
prairies  on  this  side,  though  they  widen  in  their 
course  towards  the  southeast,  and  form  an  Indian 
route  to  Dearborn's  River,  and  thence  to  the  Missouri. 
From  the  multitude  of  knobs  irregularly  scattered 

M.  of  H.— XXIX— 19 


104     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

through  this  country,  Captain  Lewis  called  it  the 
Prairie  of  the  Knobs.  It  abounds  in  game,  as  we  saw 
goats,  deer,  great  numbers  of  the  burrowing  squir- 
rels, some  curlews,  bee-martins,  woodpeckers,  plover, 
robins,  doves,  ravens  hawks,  ducks,  a  variety  of 
sparrows,  and  yesterday  observed  swans  on  Werner's 
Creek.  Among  the  plants  we  observed  the  southern 
wood,  and  two  other  species  of  shrubs,  of  which  we 
preserved  specimens."  *  *  ''•' 

"  July  7.  We  proceeded  through  a  beautiful  plain," 
says  the  Journal,  "  on  the  north  side  of  the  river, 
which  seemed  here  to  abound  in  beaver.  On  the 
low  grounds  there  was  much  timber,  and  the  hills 
were  covered  chiefly  with  pitch  pine,  that  of  the  long- 
leafed  kind  having  disappeared  since  we  left  the 
Prairie  of  the  Knobs.  At  the  distance 'of  twelve  miles 
we  left  the  river,  or  rather  the  creek,  and  having  for 
four  miles  crossed  two  ridges  in  a  direction  north  15° 
east,  again  struck  to  the  right,  proceeding  through 
a  narrow  bottom  covered  with  low  willows  and  grass, 
and  abundantly  supplied  with  both  deer  and  beaver. 
After  travelling  seven  miles  we  reached  the  foot  of 
a  ridge,  which  we  ascended  in  a  direction  north  45° 
east,  through  a  low  gap  of  easy  ascent  from  the  west- 
ward ;  and,  on  descending  it,  were  delighted  at  dis- 
covering that  this  was  the  dividing  ridge  between 
the  waters  of  the  Columbia  and  those  of  the  Missouri. 
From  this  gap  Fort  Mountain  is  about  twenty  miles 
in  a  northeastern  direction.  We  now  wound  through 
the  hills  and  mountains,  passing  several  rivulets  which 
ran  to  the  right,  and  at  the  distance  of  nine  miles 
from  the  gap  encamped,  having  made  thirty-two 
miles.  We  procured  some  beaver,  and  this  morning 


FIRST  APPEARANCE  OF  BUFFALO         105 

saw  tracks  of  buffalo,  from  which  it  appears  that  those 
animals  do  sometimes  penetrate  a  short  distance 
among  the  mountains. 

"  July  8.  At  three  miles  from  our  camp  we  reached 
a  stream  issuing  from  the  mountains  to  the  south- 
west. It  contains  water  only  for  a  width  of  thirty 
feet,  but  its  bed  is  more  than  three  times  that  breadth, 
and  from  the  appearance  of  the  roots  and  trees  in 
the  neighbouring  bottom,  its  current  must  sometimes 
run  with  great  violence :  we  called  it  Dearborn's 
River.  Half  a  mile  farther  we  observed  from  a 
height  the  Shishequaw  Mountain,  a  high,  insulated 
eminence  of  a  conical  form,  standing  several  miles  in 
advance  of  the  eastern  range  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
and  then  about  eight  miles  from  us,  and  immediately 
on  our  road,  which  was  in  a  northwest  direction.  But, 
as  our  object  was  to  strike  Medicine  River,  and  hunt 
down  to  its  mouth,  we  determined  to  leave  the  road, 
and  therefore  proceeded  due  north,  through  an  open 
plain,  till  we  reached  Shishequaw  Creek,  a  stream 
about  twenty  yards  wide,  with  a  considerable  quan- 
tity of  timber  on  its  low  grounds.  Here  we  halted 
and  dined;  and  now  felt,  by  the  luxury  of  our  food, 
that  we  were  approaching  once  more  the  plains  of  the 
Missouri,  so  rich  in  game.  We  saw  a  great  number 
of  deer,  goats,  and  wolves,  and  some  barking  squir- 
rels, and  for  the  first  time  caught  a  distant  prospect 
of  two  buffalo.  After  dinner  we  followed  the  Shishe- 
quaw for  six  and  a  half  miles,  to  its  entrance  into 
Medicine  River,  and  along  the  banks  of  this  river 
for  eight  miles,  when  we  encamped  on  a  large  island. 
The  bottoms  continued  low,  level,  and  extensive :  the 
plains,  too,  were  level ;  but  the  soil  of  neither  was 


106     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

fertile,  as  it  consisted  of  a  light-coloured  earth  inter- 
mixed with  a  proportion  of  gravel :  the  grass  in  both 
was  generally  about  nine  in,ches  high.  Captain  Lewis 
here  shot  a  large  wolf,  remarkable  for  being  almost 
white.  We  had  made  twenty-eight  miles."  *  *  * 

It  rained  the  whole  of  the  next  day,  and  they  ad- 
vanced but  eight  miles,  over  extensive  bottom  lands 
tolerably  well  supplied  with  the  narrow-leafed  cotton- 
wood. 

"  July  10.  We  set  out  early,  and  proceeded  through 
a  country  similar  to  that  of  yesterday,  with  wide- 
leafed  cottonwood  occasionally  along  the  borders  of 
the  bottoms,  though  for  the  most  part  the  low  grounds 
were  without  timber.  In  the  plains  were  great  quan- 
tities of  two  species  of  prickly  pear,  then  in  bloom. 
Gooseberries  of  the  common  red  kind  were  in  abun- 
dance, and  just  beginning  to  ripen,  but  there  were  no 
currants.  The  river  had  now  widened  to  a  hundred 
yards ;  was  deep ;  crowded  with  islands,  and  in  many 
parts  rapid.  At  the  distance  of  seventeen  miles  the 
timber  disappeared  totally  from  the  bottoms.  About 
this  time  the  wind,  which  had  before  blown  on  our 
backs,  and  put  the  elk  on  their  guard,  shifted  round, 
and  we  shot  three  of  them  and  a  brown  bear.  Captain 
Lewis  halted  to  skin  them,  while  two  of  the  men  took 
the  pack-horses  forward  to  seek  for  a  place  to  encamp. 
It  was  nine  o'clock  before  he  overtook  them,  at  the 
distance  of  seven  miles,  in  the  first  grove  of  cotton- 
wood.  They  had  been  pursued  as  they  came  along 
by  a  very  large  bear,  on  which  they  were  afraid  to 
fire,  lest  their  horses,  .being  unaccustomed  to  the  re- 
port of  a  gun,  might  take  fright  and  throw  them.  This 
circumstance  reminded  us  of  the  ferocity  of  these 


HUNTING  THE  BUFFALO  107 

animals  when  we  were  before  near  this  place,  and  ad- 
monished us  to  be  very  cautious.  We  saw  vast  num- 
'bers  of  buffalo  below  us,  which  kept  up  a  dreadful 
bellowing  during  the  night.  With  all  our  exertions" 
we  were  unable  to  advance  more  than  twenty-four 
miles,  owing  to  the  miry  state  of  the  ground,  occa- 
sioned by  the  rain.  The  next  morning,  however, 

"  July  11,  was  fair,  and  enlivened  by  multitudes 
of  birds,  which  sang  delightfully  in  the  clusters  of 
cottonwood.  The  hunters  were  sent  down  Medicine 
River  in  pursuit  of  elk,  while  Captain  Lewis  crossed 
the  high  plain,  in  a  direction  of  75°  east,  to  White 
Bear  Island,  a  distance  of  eight  miles,  and  here  they 
joined  him.  They  had  seen  some  elk;  but  in  this 
neighbourhood  the  buffalo  were  in  such  numbers,  that 
on  a  moderate  computation  there  could  not  have  been 
fe\ver  than  ten  thousand  within  a  circuit  of  two  miles. 
At  this  season  they  are  heard  bellowing  in  every  di- 
rection, so  as  to  form  an  almost  continual  roar,  which 
at  first  alarmed  our  horses,  which,  being  from  the 
west  of  the  mountains,  were  unaccustomed  to  the 
noise  and  appearance  of  these  animals.  Among  the 
smaller  game  were  the  brown  thrush,  pigeons,  doves, 
and  a  beautiful  bird  called  the  buffalo-pecker. 

"  Immediately  on  our  arrival  we  began  to  hunt, 
and  by  three  in  the  afternoon  had  collected  a  stock 
of  food  and  hides  sufficient  for  our  purpose.  We 
then  made  two  canoes,  one  in  the  form  of  a  basin, 
like  those  used  by  the  Mandans,  the  other  consisting 
of  two  skins,  in  a  form  of  our  own  invention.  They 
were  completed  the  next  morning, 

"  July  12 ;  but  the  wind  continued  so  high  that  it 
was  not  till  towards  night  that  we  could  cross  the 


108     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

river  in  them.  In  the  mean  time  nearly  the  whole 
day  was  consumed  in  seeking  after  our  horses,  which 
had  disappeared  during  the  night;  and  seven  of  them 
were  not  recovered  at  dark,  Drewyer  being  still  in 
quest  of  them."  *  *  * 

"  July  13.  We  formed  our  camp  this  morning  at 
our  old  station,  near  the  head  of  White  Bear  Island, 
and  immediately  set  to  work  in  making  gear.  On 
opening  the  cache,  we  found  the  bearskins  entirely 
destroyed  by  the  water,  which  in  the  flood  of  the  river 
had  penetrated  to  them.  All  the  specimens  of  plants, 
too,  were  unfortunately  lost;  the  chart  of  the  Mis- 
souri, however,  still  remained  unhurt,  and  several 
articles  contained  in  trunks  and  boxes  had  suffered 
but  little  injury;  but  a  vial  of  laudanum  had  lost  it? 
stopper,  and  the  liquid  had  run  into  a  drawer  of  medi- 
cines, which  it  spoiled  beyond  recovery.  The  mosche- 
toes  were  so  troublesome  that  it  was  impossible  even 
to  write  without  a  moschetobier.  The  buffalo  are  leav- 
ing us  fast,  on  their  way  to  the  southeast. 

"  July  14.  We  continued  making  preparations  for 
transporting  our  articles,  and,  as  the  old  deposit  was 
too  damp,  we  secured  the  trunks  on  a  high  scaffold, 
covered  with  skins,  among  the  thick  brush  on  a  largo 
island:  a  precaution  against  the  Indians,  should  they 
visit  us  before  the  main  party  arrived.  The  carriage 
wheels  were  in  good  order,  and  the  iron  frame  of  the 
boat  had  not  suffered  marterially.  The  buffalo  had 
now  nearly  disappeared,  leaving  behind  them  a  num- 
ber of  large  wolves  who  were  prowling  about  us. 

"  July  15.  To  our  great  joy,  Drewyer  now  return- 
ed from  his  long  search  after  the  horses;  for  we  had 
concluded  from  his  protracted  stay  that  he  had 


ADVENTURE  OF  ONE  OF  THE  PARTY  109 

ably  met  with  a  bear,  and  with  his  usual  intrepidity 
attacked  the  animal,  in  which  case,  if  by  any  accident 
he  had  been  separated  from  his  horse,  his  death  was 
almost  inevitable.  Under  this  impression,  we  had 
resolved  to  set  out  in  quest  of  him,  when  his  return 
relieved  us  from  our  apprehensions.  He  had  search- 
ed for  two  days  before  he  discovered  that  the  horses 
had  crossed  Dearborn's  River,  near  a  spot  where  there 
was  an  Indian  encampment,  which  seemed  to  have 
been  abandoned  about  the  time  the  animals  were  stol- 
en, and  around  which  so  much  caution  had  been  used, 
that  no  trace  of  a  horse  was  to  be  seen  within  the  dis- 
tance of  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  He  crossed  the  river  and 
pursued  the  track  of  these  Indians  westward,  till  his 
horse  became  so  much  fatigued  that  he  despaired  of 
overtaking  them,  and  then  returned.  These  Indians 
were  supposed  to  be  a  party  of  Tushepaws,  who  had 
ventured  out  of  the  mountains  to  hunt  buffalo. 

"  During  the  day  we  were  engaged  in  drying  meat 
and  dressing  skins.  At  night  M'Neal,  who  had  been 
sent  in  the  morning  to  examine  the  cache  at  the  lower 
end  of  the  portage,  returned,  but  had  been  prevented 
from  reaching  that  place  by  a  singular  adventure.  Just 
as  he  arrived  near  Willow  Run,  he  approached  a 
thicket  of  brush  in  which  was  a  white  bear,  which  he 
did  not  discover  until  he  was  within  ten  feet  of  him ; 
when  his  horse  started,  and,  wheeling  suddenly  round, 
threw  him  almost  immediately  under  the  animal. 
M'Neal  started  up  instantly,  and,  finding  the  bear  rais- 
ing himself  on  his  hind  feet  to  attack  him,  struck  him 
on  the  head  with  the  butt  end  of  his  musket.  The 
blow  was  so  violent  that  it  broke  the  breech  of  the 
musket  and  knocked  the  bear  to  the  ground ;  and,  be- 


no     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

fore  he  recovered,  M'Neal  sprang  into  a  willow-tree 
which  he  saw  close  by,  and  remained  there,  while  the 
bear  closely  guarded  the  foot  of  it,  till  late  in  the  after- 
noon. He  then  went  off,  when  M'Neal  came  down, 
and,  having  found  his  horse,  which  had  strayed  to  the 
distance  of  two  miles,  returned  to  camp.  These  ani- 
mals are,  indeed,  terribly  ferocious ;  and  it  is  matter  of 
wonder  that  in  all  our  encounters  with  them  we 
should  have  had  the  good  fortune  to  escape  unhurt. 
We  were  now  troubled  with  another  enemy,  not  quite 
so  dangerous,  though  even  more  disagreeable:  these 
were  the  moschetoes,  which  swarmed  around  us  in 
such  myriads  that  we  frequently  got  them  into  our 
throats  when  breathing,  and  the  dog  howled  with  the 
torture  they  occasioned.  Having  now  accomplished 
the  object  of  our  stay,  Captain  Lewis  determined  to 
leave  Sergeant  Gass,  with  two  men  and  four  horses,  to 
assist  the  party  who  were  expected,  in  carrying  our 
effects  over  the  portage,  while  he,  with  Drewyer,  the 
two  Fields,  and  six  horses,  proceeded  to  the  sources  of 
Maria's  River.  Accordingly,  early  in  the  morning, 

"  July  16,  he  descended  in  a  skin  canoe  to  the  lower 
side  of  Medicine  River,  where  the  horses  had  previ- 
ously been  sent,  and  then  rode  with  his  party  to  the 
fall  of  forty-seven  feet,  where  he  halted  for  two  hours 
to  dine,  and  took  a  sketch  of  the  cascade.  In  the  after- 
noon they  proceeded  to  the  Great  Falls,  near  which 
they  slept,  under  a  shelving  rock,  with  a  happy  ex- 
emption from  moschetoes.  These  falls  had  lost  much 
of  their  grandeur  since  they  were  before  seen,  -  the 
river  being  now  much  lower,  though  they  still  formed 
a  most  sublime  spectacle.  As  we  came  along  we  met 
several  white  bears,  but  they  did  not  venture  to  at- 


TANSY  RIVER  ill 

tack  us.  There  were  but  few  buffalo,  however,  they 
having  principally  passed  the  river,  and  directed  their 
course  downward.  As  usual,  there  were  great  num- 
bers of  goats  and  antelopes  dispersed  over  the  plains, 
and  we  saw  large  flocks  of  geese,  which  raised  their 
young  about  the  entrance  of  Medicine  River.  We  ob- 
served here,  also,  the  cuckoo,  or,  as  it  is  sometimes 
called,  the  raincraw,  a  bird  which  is  not  known  either 
among  or  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

"  July  17.  After  taking  a  second  draught  of  the 
Falls,  Captain  Lewis  directed  his  course  north  10° 
west,  with  an  intention  of  striking  Maria's  River  at 
the  point  to  which  he  had  ascended  in  1804.  The  coun- 
try here  spreads  into  wide  level  plains,  swelling  like 
the  ocean,  in  which  the  eye  is  unattracted  by  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  single  tree  or  shrub,  and  which  are  di- 
versified only  by  the  moving  herds  of  buffalo.  The 
soil  consists  of  a  light-coloured  earth,  inter-mixed  with 
a  large  proportion  of  coarse  gravel,  without  sand,  and 
is  by  no  means  as  fertile  as  either  the  plains  on  the 
Columbia,  or  those  lower  down  the  Missouri.  When 
dry  it  cracks,  and  is  hard  and  thirsty,  while  in  its  wet 
state  it  is  soft  and  slimy  like  soap.  The  grass  is  nat- 
urally short,  and  at  this  time  was  still  more  so,  from 
the  recent  passage  of  the  buffalo."  *  *  * 

"  The  tribes  which  principally  frequent  this  coun- 
try are  the  Minnetarees  of  Fort  de  Prairie  and  the 
Blackfoot  Indians,  both  of  whom  are  vicious  and  prof- 
ligate rovers ;  and  we  had,  therefore,  everything  to 
fear :  not  only  that  they  might  steal  our  horses,  but 
even  our  arms  and  baggage,  if  they  were  sufficiently 
strong." 

After  proceeding  about  twenty  miles  they  came  to 


112     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

Tansy  River,  and  as  they  would  not  be  able  to  reach 
Maria's  River  before  night,  they  encamped  there. 

"  July  1'8.  A  little  before  sunrise,"  proceeds  the 
Journal,  "  we  started  on  a  course  north  25°  west, 
which  we  continued  for  six  miles,  when  we  reached 
the  top  of  a  high  plain  which  divides  the  waters  of 
Maria  and  Tansy  Rivers ;  and  a  mile  farther  came  to 
a  creek  of  the  former,  about  twenty-five  yards  wide, 
though  without  water  except  in  a  few  pools  in  its  bed. 
Down  this  creek  we  proceeded  for  twelve  miles, 
through  thick  groves  of  timber  on  its  banks,  passing 
such  immense  numbers  of  buffalo  that  the  whole 
seemed  to  be  but  a  single  herd.  Accompanying  them 
were  multitudes  of  wolves,  and  besides  these  we  saw 
some  antelope  and  hare.  After  dinner  we  left  this  ; 
creek,  which  we  called  Buffalo  Creek,  and,  crossing 
the  plain  for  six  miles,  came  to  Maria's  River,  where 
we  encamped  in  a  grove  of  cottonwood  on  its  western  j 
side,  keeping  watch  through  the  night  lest  we  should  i 
be  surprised  by  the  Indians." 

The  two  following  days  they  continued  their  jour-  j 
ney  up  Maria's   River  to  the  distance   of  forty-eight 
miles,  seeing  great  numbers  of  wild  animals  of  differ- 
ent  kinds,   though    fewer   buffalo   than    before.      The  j 
country    was    spread    out    in    level,    beautiful    plains,  j 
though  the  soil,  except  on  the  bottoms,  was  of  inferi- 
or quality. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Captain  Lewis  and  his  Party  arrive  at  the  Forks  of  Maria's  River. — 
Alarmed  by  the  Evidence  of  being  in  the  Neighbourhood  of  un- 
friendly Indians,  and  distressed  for  Want  of  Provisions. — The  un- 
favourable Weather  compels  them  to  return. — Interview  with  the 
Minnetarees  of  Fort  de  Prairie. — Mutual  Consternation. — Resolution  of 
Captain  Lewis. — They  encamp  together  for  the  Night. — Conversation 
which  ensues. — Conflict  occasioned  by  the  Indians  attempting  to  seize 
the  Rifles  and  Horses  of  the  Party,  in  which  one  of  the  former  is 
mortally  wounded. — Captain  Lewis  kills  another  Indian,  and  his  nar- 
row Escape. — Having  taken  four  Horses  belonging  to  the  Indians, 
they  hasten  to  join  the  Party  with  Captain  Clarke. — Arriving  near  the 
Missouri,  they  are  alarmed  by  the  Sound  of  Rifles,  which  fortunately 
proves  to  be  from  the  Party  under  Sergeant  Ordway. — The  two  De- 
tachments thus  united,  leave  their  Horses,  and  descend  the  Missouri 
in  Canoes. — Continue  their  Route  down  the  River  to  join  Captain 
Clarke. — Vast  Quantities  of  Game  seen  on  their  Passage. — Captain 
Lewis  accidentally  Wounded  by  one  of  his  own  Party. — They  at 
length  join  Captain  Clarke. 

STARTING  at  sunrise  on  the  21st,  Captain  Lewis 
and  his  party,  after  proceeding  eighteen  miles, 
came  to  the  forks  of  Maria's  River,  the  largest 
branch  running  south  75°  west  towards  the  mountains, 
and   the   other   north   40°   west.     They   followed   the 
northern  branch,  believing  it  would  lead  them  to  the 
most  northerly  point  of  the  river,  and  at  the  distance 
of  thirteen  miles  encamped  under  a  cliff  on  its  banks. 
Ascending  this  branch  for  twenty-eight  miles  on 
the  following  day,  they  were  brought  within  about  ten 

113 


114     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

miles  of  the  foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  "  and  be- 
ing now  able  to  trace  distinctly,"  says  the  Journal,  "that 
the  point  at  which  the  river  issues  from  those  moun- 
tains was  to  the  south  of  west,  we  concluded  that  we 
had  reached  its  most  northern  point;  and  as  we  had 
ceased  to  believe  that  any  of  its  branches  extended  as 
far  north  as  the  fiftieth  degree  of  latitude,  we  deemed 
it  useless  to  proceed  farther." 

They  concluded  to  remain  here  two  days,  to  take 
some  observations  and  rest  their  horses.  Being  un- 
able to  procure  either  game  or  fish,  they  were  much 
distressed  for  want  of  provisions ;  and  their  situation 
was  rendered  still  more  unpleasant  by  certain  evi- 
dences that  the  Minnetarees  were  at  no  great  distance 
from  them.  The  weather,  also,  was  cold  and  rainy, 
preventing  their  taking  any  observation,  and  detain- 
ing them  beyond  the  period  they  had  proposed  to 
stop. 

They  did  not  start  till  the  26th,  when,  proceeding 
in  nearly  a  southeast  direction  across  the  plains,  at 
twelve  miles'  distance  they  came  to  a  branch  of  Maria's 
River,  "  which,"  says  the  Journal,  "  we  crossed,  and 
continued  along  its  southern  side  for  two  miles,  where 
it  is  joined  by  another  branch  of  nearly  equal  size 
from  the  southwest,  and  far  more  clear  than  the  north 
branch,  which  is  turbid,  though  the  beds  of  both  are 
composed  of  pebbles.  We  now  decided  on  pursuing 
this  river  to  its  junction  with  the  fork  of  Maria's  River, 
which  we  had  ascended,  and  then  crossing  the  coun- 
try obliquely  to  Tansy  River  to  descend  that  stream 
to  its  confluence  with  Maria's  River.  We  therefore 
crossed  over  and  descended  the  river,  and  at  one  mile 
below  the  junction  halted  to  let  the  horses  graze  in  a 


DISCOVERY  OF  THE  MINNETAREES      115 

fertile  bottom,  in  which  were  some  Indian  lodges  that 

appeared  to  have  been  inhabited  during  the  last  win- 
^er  »  *  -jf  * 

"  At  the  distance  of  three  miles  we  ascended  the 
hills  close  to  the  river,  while  Drewyer  proceeded  along 
its  valley  on  its  opposite  side.  But  scarcely  had  Cap- 
tain Lewis  reached  the  high  plain,  when  he  saw,  about 
a  mile  to  his  left,  a  collection  of  about  thirty  horses. 
He  immediately  halted,  and  by  the  aid  of  his  spyglass 
discovered  that  one  half  of  the  horses  were  saddled, 
and  that  on  the  eminence  above  the  horses  there  were 
several  Indians  looking  down  towards  the  river,  pro- 
bably at  Drewyer.  This  was  a  most  unwelcome  ^ight. 
Their  probable  numbers  rendered  any  contest  with 
them  of  doubtful  issue,  while  to  attempt  to  escape 
would  only  invite 'pursuit,  and  our  horses  were  so  bad 
that  we  must  certainly  be  overtaken ;  besides  which, 
Drewyer  could  not  yet  be  aware  that  the  Indians  were 
near,  and  if  we  ran  he  would  most  probably  be  sacri- 
ficed. We  determined,  therefore,  to  make  the  best  of 
our  situation,  and  advanced  towards  them  in  a  friendly 
manner.  The  flag  which  we  had  brought  in  case  of 
any  such  accident  was  displayed,  and  we  continued 
slowly  to  approach  them.  Their  attention  was  so  en- 
tirely directed  to  Drewyer  that  they  did  not  immedi- 
ately discover  us.  As  soon  as  they  did  perceive  us 
they  appeared  to  be  much  alarmed,  and. ran  about  in 
great  confusion :  some  of  them  came  down  the  hill  and 
drove  their  horses  within  gunshot  of  the  eminence, 
to  which  they  then  returned,  as  if  to  await  our  arrival. 
When  we  came  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  one  of 
them  mounted  and  rode  at  full  speed  to  meet  us ;  but 
at  the  distance  of  a  hundred  paces  he  halted,  and 


116     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

Captain  Lewis,  who  had  alighted  to  receive  him,  held 
out  his  hand  and  beckoned  to  him  to  approach:  he 
looked  at  us  for  some  time,  and  then,  without  saying 
a  word  returned  to  his  companions  with  as  much  haste 
as  he  advanced.  The  whole  party  now  descended  the 
hill  and  rode  towards  us.  As  yet  we  saw  only  eight, 
but  presumed  that  there  must  be  more  behind  them, 
as  there  were  other  horses  saddled.  We,  however, 
advanced,  and  Captain  Lewis  now  told  his  two  men 
that  he  feared  these  were  the  Minnetarees  of  Fort  de 
Prairie,  who,  from  their  infamous  character,  would  in 
all  probability  attempt  to  rob  us;  but  that,  being  de- 
termined to  die  rather  than  lose  his  papers  and  instru- 
ments, he  had  made  up  his  mind  to  resist  to  the  last 
extremity,  and  advised  them  to  do  the  same,  and  to 
be  on  the  alert  should  there  be  any  disposition  to 
attack  us. 

"  When  the  two  parties  came  within  a  hundred 
yards  of  each  other,  all  the  Indians  except  one  halted; 
Captain  Lewis  therefore  ordered  his  two  men  to  stop 
while  he  advanced  alone ;  and,  after  shaking  hands  with 
the  Indian,  he  went  on,  and  did  the  same  with  the  oth- 
ers in  the  rear,  the  foremost  Indian  at  the  same  time 
shaking  hands  with  the  two  men.  They  all  now  came 
up,  and,  after  alighting,  the  Indians  asked  to  smoke 
with  us.  Captain  Lewis,  who  was  very  anxious  for 
Drewyer's  safety,  told  them  that  the  man  who  had 
gone  down  the  river  had  the  pipe,  and  requested,  as 
they  had  seen  him,  that  one  of  them  should  accompany 
Fields  to  bring  him  back.  To  this  they  assented,  and 
Fields  went  with  a  young  Indian  in  search  of  Drew- 
yer.  Captain  Lewis  now  asked  them  by  signs  if  they 
were  the  Minnetarees  of  the  north,  and  was  sorry  to 


INTERVIEW  WITH  THE  MINNETAREES  117 

learn  by  their  answer  that  his  suspicions  were  too 
true.  He  then  inquired  if  there  was  any  chief  among 
them.  They  pointed  out  three ;  but,  though  he  did  not 
believe  them,  he  thought  it  best  to  please  them,  and 
gave  to  one  a  flag,  to  another  a  medal,  and  to  a  third 
a  handkerchief.  They  appeared  to  be  well  satisfied 
with  these  presents,  and  soon  entirely  recovered  from 
the  agitation  into  which  our  first  interview  had  thrown 
them ;  for  they  were,  in  fact,  more  alarmed  than  we 
were  at  the  first  meeting.  In  turn,  however,  we  be- 
came equally  satisfied,  on  seeing  that  they  were  not 
joined  by  any  more  companions ;  for  we  considered 
ourselves  quite  a  match  for  eight  Indians,  particularly 
as  only  two  of  them  had  guns,  the  rest  being  armed 
with  eye-dogs  and  bows  and  arrows. 

"  As  it  was  growing  late,  Captain  Lewis  proposed 
that  they  should  encamp  together  near  the  river;  for 
he  was  glad  to  see  them,  and  had  a  great  deal  to  say 
to  them.  They  assented;  and  being  soon  joined  by 
Drewyer,  we  proceeded  towards  the  river  and  after 
descending  a  very  steep  bluff,  two  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  high,  encamped  in  a  small  bottom.  Here  the  In- 
dians formed  a  large  semicircular  tent  of  dressed  buf- 
falo skins,  in  which  the  two  parties  assembled,  and 
by  the  help  of  Drewyer  the  evening  was  spent  in  con- 
versation. The  Indians  informed  us  that  they  were  a 
part  of  a  large  band,  which  at  present  lay  encamped  on 
the  main  branch  of  Maria's  River,  near  the  foot  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  at  the  distance  of  a  day  and  a 
half's  journey  from  this  place.  Another  numerous 
party  were  hunting  buffalo  near  the  Broken  Moun- 
tains, from  which  they  would  proceed  in  a  few  days  to 
the  north  of  Maria's  River.  With  the  first  of  these 


113     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

there  was  a  white  man.  They  added,  that  from  this 
place  to  the  establishment  at  which  they  traded  on  the 
Saskashawan  was  only  six  day's  easy  march,  that  is, 
such  a  day's  journey  as  could  be  made  with  their 
women  and  children;  so  that  we  computed  the  distance 
at  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles.  There  they  carry 
wolfskins  and  some  beaver,  and  exchange  them  for 
guns,  ammunition,  blankets,  spirituous  liquors,  and 
other  articles  of  Indian  traffic. 

"  Captain  Lewis,  in  turn,  informed  them  that  he 
had  come  from  a  great  distance  up  the  large  river 
which  runs  towards  the  rising  sun,  and  that  he  had 
been  as  far  as  the  great  lake  where  the  sun  sets ;  that 
he  had  seen  many  nations,  the  greater  part  of  whom 
were  at  war  with  each  other,  but  that  by  his  mediation 
they  had  made  peace,  and  all  of  them  had  been  invited 
to  come  and  trade  with  him  east  of  the  mountains; 
that  he  was  now  on  his  way  home,  but  had  left  his 
companions  at  the  Falls  while  he  came  in  search  of 
the  Minnetarees,  in  the  hope  of  inducing  them  also 
to  live  at  peace  with  their  neighbours,  and  to  visit  the 
trading  houses  which  were  about  to  be  established 
at  the  entrance  of  Maria's  River.  They  said  that  they 
were  anxious  to  be  at  peace  with  the  Tushepaws,  but 
that  those  people  had  lately  killed  a  number  of  their 
relations,  as  they  proved  by  pointing  to  several  of 
the  party  who  had  their  hair  cut  as  a  mark  of  mourn- 
ing. They  were  equally  willing,  they  added,  to  come 
down  and  trade  with  us.  Captain  Lewis  therefore 
proposed  that  they  should  send  some  of  their  young 
men  to  invite  all  their  band  to  meet  us  at  the  mouth 
of  Maria's  River,  and  that  the  rest  of  the  party  should 
go  with  us  to  that  place,  where  he  hoped  to  find  his 


CONFLICT  WITH  THE  MINNETAREES     no 

men,  offering  them,  at  the  same  time,  ten  horses  and 
some  tobacco  if  they  would  accompany  us.  To  this, 
however,  they  made  no  reply.  Finding  them  very  fond 
of  the  pipe,  Captain  Lewis,  who  was  desirous  of  keep- 
ing a  vigilant  watch  during  the  night,  smoked  with 
them  until  a  late  hour,  and,  as  soon  as  they  were  all 
asleep,  he  awoke  R.  Fields,  and  ordering  him  to  arouse 
us  all  in  case  any  Indian  left  the  camp,  as  they  would 
probably  attempt  to  steal  our  horses,  he  lay  down  by 
the  side  of  Drewyer  in  the  tent  with  all  the  Indians, 
while  the  two  Fields  were  stretched  near  the  fire  at 
the  mouth  of  it. 

"  July  27.  The  Indians  got  up  at  sunrise  and 
crowded  round  the  fire,  near  which  J.  Fields,  who  was 
then  on  watch,  had  carelessly  left  his  rifle,  by  the  head 
of  his  brother,  who  was  still  asleep.  One  of  the  In- 
dians slipped  behind  him,  and,  unperceived,  took  his 
brother's  and  his  own  rifle,  while  at  the  same  time  two 
others  seized  those  of  Drewyer  and  Captain  Lewis. 
As  soon  as  Fields  turned  round  he  saw  the  Indian  run- 
ning off  with  the  rifles,  and  instantly  calling  his 
brother,  they  pursued  him  for  fifty  or  sixty  yards,  and 
just  as  they  overtook  him,  in  the  scuffle  R.  Fields  stab- 
bed him  through  the  heart  with  his  knife :  he  ran  about 
fifteen  steps  and  fell  dead.  They  now  hastened  back 
with  their  rifles  to  the  camp.  The  moment  the  fellow 
touched  his  gun,  Drewyer,  who  was  awake,  jumped 
up  and  wrested  it  from  him.  The  noise  awoke  Captain 
Lewis,  who  instantly  started  from  the  ground,  and 
reached  to  seize  his  gun ;  but,  finding  it  gone,  he  drew 
a  pistol  from  his  belt,  and  turning  about,  saw  an  Indian 
running  off  with  it.  He  followed  him  and  ordered  him 
to  lay  it  down,  which  he  was  doing,  just  as  the  two 

M.  of  H.— XXIX— 20 


120     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

. 

Fields  came  up  and  were  taking  aim  to  shoot  him ; 
when  Captain  Lewis  ordered  them  not  to  fire,  as  the 
Indian  did  not  appear  to  intend  any  mischief.  He 
dropped  the  gun,  and  was  going  off  slowly,  when 
Drewyer  came  out  and  asked  permission  to  kill  him ; 
but  this  Captain  Lewis  forbade,  as  he  had  not  at- 
tempted to  shoot  us.  But,  finding  that  the  Indians 
were  now  endeavouring  to  drive  off  all  our  horses, 
he  ordered  the  men  to  follow  the  main  party  who  were 
chasing  the  horses  up  the  river,  and  to  fire  instantly 
upon  the  thieves ;  while  he,  without  taking  time  to  run 
for  his  shot-pouch,  pursued  the  fellow  who  had  stolen 
his  gun  and  another  Indian,  who  were  driving  away 
the  horses  on  the  left  of  the  camp.  He  pressed  them  so 
closely  that  they  left  twelve  of  their  own  horses,  but 
continued  to  drive  off  one  of  ours.  At  the  distance  of 
three  hundred  paces  they  entered  a  steep  niche  in 
the  river  bluffs,  when  Captain  Lewis,  being  too  much 
out  of  breath  to  pursue  them  any  farther,  called  out,  as 
he  had  done  several  times  before,  that  unless  they  gave 
up  the  horses  he  would  shoo't  them.  As  he  raised  his 
gun  one  of  them  jumped  behind  a  rock,  and  spoke  to 
the  other,  whom  stopping  at  a  distance  of  thirty  paces, 
Captain  Lewis  shot  in  the  belly.  He  fell  on  his  knees 
and  right  elbow,  but,  raising  himself  a  little,  fired, 
and  then  crawled  behind  a  rock.  The  shot  had  nearly 
proved  fatal ;  for  Captain  Lewis,  who  was  bareheaded, 
felt  the  wind  of  the  ball  very  distinctly.  Not  having 
his  shot-pouch,  he  could  not  reload  his  rifle;  and,  hav- 
ing only  a  single  charge  also  for  his  pistol,  he  thought 
it  most  prudent  not  to  attack  them  farther,  and  retired  j 
slowly  to  the  camp.  He  was  met  by  Drewyer,  whr, 
hearing  the  report  of  the  guns,  had  come  to  his  assist- 


THEY  HASTEN  THEIR  JOURNEY         121 

ance,  leaving  the  Fields  to  follow  the  other  Indians. 
Captain  Lewis  ordered  him  to  call  out  to  them  to  desist 
from  the  pursuit,  as  we  could  take  the  horses  of  the  In- 
dians in  place  of  our  own;  but  they  were  at  too  great 
a  distance  to  hear  him.  He  therefore  returned  to  the 
camp,  and  while  he  was  saddling  the  horses  the  Fields 
returned  with  four  of  our  own,  having  followed  the 
Indians  until  two  of  them  swam  the  river  and  two  oth- 
ers ascended  the  hills,  so  that  the  horses  became  dis- 
persed. 

"  We  were,  on  the  whole,  rather  gainers  by  the  con- 
test, for  we  had  taken  four  of  the  Indian  horses,  and 
lost  only  one  of  our  own.  Besides  these,  we  found  in 
the  camp  four  shields,  two  bows  with  quivers,  and  one 
of  their  guns,  which  we  took  with  us,  and  also  the  flag 
we  had  presented  to  them :  the  medal  we  left  round  the 
neck  of  the  dead  man,  that  they  might  be  informed  who 
we  were.  The  rest  of  their  baggage,  except  some  buf- 
falo meat,  we  did  not  disturb ;  and  as  there  was  no  time 
to  be  lost,  we  mounted  our  horses,  and,  after  ascending 
the  river  hills,  took  our  course  through  the  beautiful 
level  plains  in  a  direction  a  little  to  the  south  of  east. 
We  had  no  doubt  but  we  should  be  immediately  pur- 
sued by  a  much  larger  party,  and  that,  as  soon  as  intel- 
ligence was  given  to  the  band  near  the  Broken  Moun- 
tains, they  would  hasten  to  the  mouth  or  Maria's  River 
to  intercept  us.  We  hoped,  however,  to  be  there  before 
them,  so  as  to  form  a  junction  with  our  friends.  We 
therefore  pushed  our  horses  as  fast  as  we  possibly 
could  (and,  fortunately  for  us,  the  Indian  horses  proved 
very  good),  the  plains  being  perfectly  level,  without 
many  stones  or  prickly  pears,  and  in  fine  order  for  trav- 
elling after  the  late  rains.  At  eight  miles  from  our 


122     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

eamp  we  passed  a  stream  forty  yards  wide,  to  which, 
from  the  occurrence  of  the  morning,  we  gave  the  name 
of  Battle  River.  At  three  o'clock  we  reached  Rose 
River,  five  miles  above  where  we  had  formerly  passed 
it ;  and  having  now  come  by  estimate  sixty-three  miles, 
we  halted  for  an  hour  and  a  half  to  refresh  our  horses, 
then  pursued  our  journey  seventeen  miles  farther, 
when,  as  the  night  came  on,  we  killed  a  buffalo,  and 
again  stopped  for  two  hours.  The  sky  was  now  over- 
cast, but  as  the  moon  gave  light  enough  to  show  us 
the  route,  we  continued  along  through  immense  herds 
of  buffalo  for  twenty  miles,  and  then,  almost  exhausted 
with  fatigue,  halted  at  two  in  the  morning, 

"  July  28,  to  rest  ourselves  and  the  horses.  At  day- 
light we  awoke,  sore,  and  scarcely  able  to  stand ;  but 
as  our  own  lives,  as  well  as  those  of  our  companions, 
depended  on  our  pressing  forward,  we  again  mounted 
our  horses  and  set  out.  The  men  were  desirous  of 
crossing  the  Missouri  at  Grog  Spring,  where  Rose 
River  approaches  it  so  nearly  that  by  passing  down 
the  southwest  side  of  it  we  might  avoid  the  country 
at  the  junction  of  the  two  rivers,  across  which  the 
enemy  would  most  probably  pursue  us.  But  as  this 
circuitous  route  would  consume  the  whole  day,  and  the 
Indians  might  in  the  mean  time  attack  the  canoes  at 
the  point,  Captain  Lewis  stated  to  his  party  that  it  was 
now  their  duty  to  risk  their  lives  for  their  friends  and 
companions ;  that  they  should  therefore  proceed  imme- 
diately to  the  point  to  give  them  the  alarm ;  and  if  they 
had  not  yet  arrived  there,  they  would  raft  the  Missouri, 
and,  after  hiding  the  baggage,  ascend  the  river  on  foot 
through  the  woods  till  they  should  meet  them.  He 
told  them,  also,  that  it  was  his  determination,  in  case 


CACHE,  CAVED  IN  123 

they  were  attacked  in  crossing  the  plains,  to  tie  the 
bridles  of  the  horses,  and  stand  together  till  they  had 
either  routed  their  enemies,  or  sold  their  lives  as  dearly 
as  possible.  To  this  they  all  assented,  and  we  therefore 
continued  our  route  to  the  eastward,  till  at  the  distance 
of  twelve  miles  we  came  near  the  Missouri,  when  we 
heard  a  noise  which  seemed  like  the  report  of  a  gun. 
We  therefore  quickened  our  pace  for  eight  miles  far- 
ther, and,  being  about  five  miles  from  Grog  Spring, 
now  heard  distinctly  the  noise  of  several  rifles  from  the 
river.  We  hurried  to  the  bank,  and  saw  with  exquisite 
satisfaction  our  friends  descending  the  river.  They 
landed  to  greet  us,  and  after  turning  our  horses  loose, 
we  embarked  with  our  baggage,  and  went  down  to  the 
spot  where  we  had  made  a  deposit.  This,  after  recon- 
noitring the  adjacent  country,  we  opened;  but,  unfor- 
tunately, the  cache  had  caved  in,  and  most  of  the  articles 
were  injured.  We  took  whatever  was  still  worth  pre- 
serving, and  immediately  proceeded  to  the  point,  where 
we  found  our  deposits  in  good  order.  By  a  singular 
good  fortune,  we  were  here  joined  by  Sergeant  Gass 
and  Willard  from  the  Falls,  who  had  been  ordered  to 
come  with  the  horses  here  to  assist  in  procuring  meat 
for  the  voyage,  as  it  had  been  calculated  that  the  canoes 
would  reach  this  place  much  sooner  than  Captain 
Lewis's  party.  After  a  very  heavy  shower  of  rain  and 
hail,  attended  with  violent  thunder  and  lightning,  we 
started  from  the  point,  and  giving  a  final  discharge  to 
our  horses,  went  over  to  the  island  where  we  had  left 
our  red  pirogue,  which,  however,  we  found  much  de- 
cayed, and  we  had  no  means  of  repairing  her.  We 
therefore  took  all  of  the  iron  work  out  of  her,  and, 
proceeding  down  the  river  fifteen  miles,  encamped  near 


124     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

some  cottonwood-trees,  one  of  which  was  of  the  nar- 
row-leafed species,  and  the  first  of  that  kind  we  had 
remarked  in  ascending  the  river. 

"  Sergeant  Ordway's  party,  which  had  left  the 
mouth  of  Madison  River  on  the  13th,  had  descended 
in  safety  to  White  Bear  Island,  where  he  arrived  on  the 
10th,  and,  after  collecting  the  baggage,  had  left  the 
falls  on  the  '37th  in  the  white  pirogue  and  five  canoes, 
while  Sergean^  Gass  and  Willard  set  out  at  the  same 
time  by  land  with  the  horses,  and  thus  fortunately  met 
together." 

They  started  the  next  morning,  notwithstanding  a 
violent  storm  of  rain  and  hail,  having  first  sent  two 
canoes  ahead  for  the  purpose  of  hunting  elk  and  buffalo, 
which  were  in  immense  numbers.  The  river  was  high 
and  the  current  rapid,  and  they  continued  their  voy- 
age downward  for  several  days,  at  the  rate,  when  the 
weather  would  permit,  of  sixty  or  seventy  miles  a  day, 
passing  the  mouths  of  the  Muscleshell,  Big  Dry,  Little 
Dry,  and  Porcupine  Rivers  in  their  descent. 

"  August  ?'.  Being  resolved,"  proceeds  the  Jour- 
nal, "  to  reach,  if  possible,  the  Yellowstone,  a  distance 
of  eighty-three  miles,  in  the  course  of  the  day,  we  set 
out  early,  and,  being  favoured  by  a  rapid  current  and 
good  oarsmen,  proceeded  with  great  speed.  In  pass- 
ing Martha's  River,  we  observed  that  its  mouth  was  at 
present  a  quarter  of  a  mile  lower  than  it  had  been  last 
year.  Here  we  perceived  the  first  appearance  of  coal- 
burned  hills  and  pumice-stone,  which  seem  always  to 
accompany  each  other.  At  this  place,  also,  were  the 
first  elms  and  dwarf  cedars,  on  the  bluffs  of  the  river. 
The  ash,  too,  made  its  first  appearance  in  a  solitary 
tree  at  the  Ash  Rapid,  but  was  seen  occasionally  scat- 


PASSAGE  DOWN  THE  MISSOURI         125 

tered  through  the  low  grounds  at  the  Elk  Rapid,  and 
thence  downward,  though  it  was  generally  small.  The 
whole  country  on  the  northeast  side,  between  Martha 
and  Milk  Rivers,  is  a  beautiful  level  plain,  with  a  soil 
much  more  fertile  than  that  higher  up.  The  buffalo, 
elk,  and  other  animals  still  continued  numerous,  as 
were  also  the  bear,  who  lie  in  wait  at  the  crossing 
places,  where  they  seize  elk  and  the  weaker  cattle,  and 
then  stay  by  the  carcass  to  keep  off  the  wolves  till  the 
whole  is  devoured.  At  four  o'clock  we  reached  the 
mouth  of  the  Yellowstone,  where  we  iound  a  note  from 
Captain  Clarke,  informing  us  of  his  intention  of  waiting 
for  us  a  few  miles  below.  We  therefore  left  a  memo- 
randum for  two  of  our  huntsmen,  who  had  been  sent 
out,  and  who,  we  now  supposed,  must  be  behind  us, 
and  then  pursued  our  course  till  night  came  on,  when, 
not  being  able  to  overtake  Captain  Clarke,  we  en- 
camped." 

The  next  day  they  proceeded  nearly  to  the  mouth  of 
Whiteearth  River  without  meeting  Captain  Clarke,  and 
not  knowing  what  to  think  of  it,  they  landed  and  re- 
mained for  two  days,  during  which  they  employed 
themselves  in  caulking  and  repairing  their  canoes,  and 
in  preparing  skins  for  clothing. 

"  August  11.  Being  anxious,"  continues  the  nar- 
rative, "  to  reach  the  Burned  Hills  by  noon,  in  order  to 
determine  their  latitude,  we  went  forward  with  great 
rapidity,  but  by  the  time  we  reached  that  place  it  was 
twenty  minutes  too  late  to  take  a  meridian  altitude. 
Captain  Lewis  observing  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river  a  herd  of  elk  on  a  sand-bar  covered  with  willows, 
landed  with  Cruzatte  to  hunt  them.  Each  of  them  fired 
and  shot  an  elk.  They  then  reloaded,  and  took  differ- 


126     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

ent  routes  in  pursuit  of  the  game,  when,  just  as  Cap- 
tain Lewis  was  taking  aim  at  an  elk,  a  ball  struck  him 
in  the  left  thigh,  about  an  inch  below  the  hipjoint,  and 
missing  the  bone,  passed  through  the  limb,  and  grazed 
the  other  to  some  depth.  It  instantly  occurred  to  him 
that  Cruzatte,  whose  eyesight  was  not  very  good,  must 
have  shot  him  in  mistake  for  an  elk,  as  he  was  dressed 
in  brown  leather.  He  therefore  called  out  that  he  was 
wounded,  and  looked  towards  the  place  from  which  the 
shot  came :  seeing  nothing,  however,  he  called  on  Cru- 
zatte by  name  several  times,  but  received  no  answer. 
As,  then,  his  companion  was  out  of  hearing,  and  the 
shot  appeared  not  to  have  come  from  more  than  forty 
paces'  distance,  he  now  concluded  that  it  must  have 
been  fired  by  an  Indian;  and  not  knowing  how  many 
might  be  concealed  in  the  bushes,  he  made  towards  the 
pirogue,  calling  out  to  Cruzatte  to  retreat,  as  there 
were  Indians  in  the  willows.  As  soon  as  he  reached  the 
pirogue,  he  ordered  the  men  to  arms,  and  stating  to 
them  that  he  had  been  wounded  by  the  Indians,  though 
he  hoped  not  mortally,  bade  them  follow  him  to  re- 
lieve Cruzatte.  They  instantly  followed  for  a  hundred 
paces,  when  his  wound  became  so  painful,  and  his  thigh 
stiffened  in  such  a  manner,  that  he  could  go  no  farther. 
He  therefore  ordered  the  men  to  proceed,  and  if  they 
should  be  overpowered  by  numbers,  to  retreat  towards 
the  boats,  keeping  up  a  continual  fire ;  then  limping 
back  to  the  pirogue,  he  made  ready  his  rifle,  pistol,  and 
air-gun,  determined  to  sell  his  life  dearly  in  case  the 
men  should  be  overcome.  In  this  state  of  anxiety 
and  suspense  he  remained  for  about  twenty  minutes, 
when  the  party  returned  with  Cruzatte,  and  reported 
that  no  Indians  were  to  be  seen  in  the  neighbourhood. 


LEWIS  ACCIDENTALLY  WOUNDED       12? 

Cruzatte  was  now  much  alarmed,  and  declared  that  he 
had  shot  at  an  elk,  as  he  supposed,  after  Captain  Lewis 
had  left  him,  but  disclaimed  all  idea  of  having  inten- 
tionally wounded  his  officer.  There  was  now  no  doubt 
but  the  shot  had  come  from  him ;  yet,  as  it  seemed  to 
be  perfectly  accidental,  and  he  had  always  conducted 
himself  with  propriety,  no  further  notice  was  taken  of 
it.  The  wound  was  dressed,  and  patent  lint  put  into 
the  holes.  It  bled  considerably,  but  as  the  ball  had 
touched  no  bone  or  artery,  it  was  hoped  it  would  not 
prove  fatal.  As  it  was  now  rendered  impossible  for 
him,  however,  to  take  the  observations  he  had  pro- 
posed, to  determine  the  latitude  of  the  Burned  Hills, 
which  was  chiefly  desirable  from  their  being  at  the 
most  northern  point  of  the  Missouri,  he  declined  re- 
maining till  the  next  day,  and  proceeded  on  till  even- 
ing. As  he  could  not  now  be  removed  without  great 
pain,  and  had  a  high  fever,  he  remained  on  board  dur- 
ing the  night,  and  early  next  morning, 

"  August  12,  we  proceeded  on  with  as  much  expe- 
dition as  possible.  Soon  after  starting  we  went  on 
shore  to  visit  a  camp,  which  we  found  to  be  that  of 
Dickson  and  Hancock,  the  two  Illinois  traders,  who 
told  us  that  they  had  seen  Captain  Clarke  the  day  be- 
fore. While  stopping  here  we  were  overtaken  by  our 
two  hunters,  Colter  and  Collins,  who  had  been  missing 
since  the  3d.  They  stated  that,  after  following  us  the 
first  day,  they  concluded  we  must  be  behind,  and 
waited  for  us  several  days,  until  they  became  convinced 
of  their  mistake,  when  they  came  on  as  rapidly  as  they 
could.  We  made  some  presents  to  the  two  traders,  and 
then  proceeded  till  one  o'clock,  when  we  joined  our 
friends  and  companions  under  Captain  Clarke." 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Tbe  Party  commanded  by  Captain  Clarke  proceed  along  Clarke's  River. — 
Their  sorry  Commemoration  of  the  4th  of  July. — Instance  of  Saca- 
jawea's  Strength  of  Memory. — Description  of  the  River  and  of  the 
surrounding  Country,  as  the  Party  proceed. — Horses  missing,  and 
supposed  to  be  stolen  by  the  Indians. — They  reach  Wisdom  River. — 
Extraordinary  Heat  of  a  Spring. — Fondness  of  the  Party  for  Tobacco. 
— Sergeant  Ordway  recovers  the  Horses. — Captain  Clarke  divides  his 
Party,  one  detachment  to  descend  the  River. — They  reach  Gallatin  and 
Jefferson  Rivers. — Arrive  at  the  Yellowstone  River. — Otter  and  Beaver 
Rivers. — Indian  Fortification. — One  of  the  Party  accidentally  wounded. 
— Engaged  in  building  Canoes. — Twenty-four  Horses  stolen,  probably 
by  the  Indians. 

'  T  ULY  3.     On  taking  leave  of  Captain  Lewis  and 
the  Indians,  the  division  under  Captain  Clarke, 
J       consisting  of  fifteen  men,  with  fifty  horses,  set 
ut  through  the  valley  of  Clarke's   River,  along  the 
western  side  of  which  they  rode  in  a  southern  direction. 
This  valley  is  from  ten  to  fifteen  miles  in  width,  toler- 
ably level,  and  partially  covered  with  the  long-leafed 
and  the  pitch  pine,  with  some  cottonwood,  birch,  and 
sweet  willow  on  the  borders  of  the  streams."  *  *  * 
"  After  crossing  eight  different  streams  of  water,  four 
of  which  were  small,  they  halted  at  the  distance  of 
eighteen  miles,  on  the  upper  side  of  a  large  creek,  where 
they  let  their  horses  graze,  and  after  dinner  continued 
their  journey  in  the  same  direction  eighteen  miles  far- 

128 


DETERMINING  THE  BEST  ROUTE        129 

ther,  when  they  encamped  on  the  north  side  of  a  large 
creek.  The  valley  became  more  beautiful  as  they  ad- 
vanced, and  was  diversified  by  a  number  of  small  open 
plains,  abounding  with  grass  and  a  variety  of  sweet- 
scented  plants,  and  watered  by  ten  streams  rushing 
from  the  western  mountains  with  considerable  velocity. 
These  mountains  were  covered  with  snow  about  one 
fifth  of  their  way  from  the  top,  and  some  snow  was 
still  to  be  seen  on  the  high  points,  and  in  the  hollows 
of  the  mountains  to  the  eastward." 

The  following  day  they  continued  their  route  up 
the  valley,  which  became  narrower  as  they  advanced. 
They  were  obliged  to  ford  several  rapid  creeks  on  their 
way,  and  at  the  distance  of  thirty  miles  encamped  on 
the  western  branch  of  Clarke's  River.  Crossing  the 
river  the  next  morning,  after  proceeding  one  mile  they 
came  to  its  eastern  branch,  which  they  ascended  to  the 
foot  of  the  mountain;  and,  having  ascertained  that  it 
took  its  rise  in  a  high,  peaked  mountain  about  twenty 
miles  to  the  northeast  of  the  valley,  they  stopped  for 
the  night.  "  As  soon  as  they  halted,"  proceeds  the  nar- 
rative, "  several  men  were  dispatched  in  different  direc- 
tions to  examine  the  road,  and  from  their  report  it  was 
concluded  that  the  best  path  would  be  one  about  three 
miles  up  the  stream.  This  was  the  road  travelled  by 
the  Ootlashoots,  and  would  certainly  shorten  the  route 
two  days  at  least,  besides  being  much  better,  as  they 
had  been  informed  by  the  Indians,  than  tjiat  by  which 
we  had  advanced  in  the  fall. 

"  July  6.  The  night  was  very  cold,  succeeded  by 
frost  in  the  morning ;  and  as  the  horses  were  much  scat- 
tered, the  party  were  not  able  to  set  out  before  nine 
o'clock.  They  then  went  along  the  stream  for  three 


130     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

f 

miles,  and  leaving  to  the  right  the  path  by  which  they 
had  come  in  the  fall,  followed  the  road  taken  by  the 
Ootlashoots,  up  a  gentle  ascent  to  the  dividing  moun- 
tain which  separates  the  waters  of  the  middle  fork  of 
Clarke's  River  from  those  of  Wisdom  and  Lewis  Riv- 
ers. On  reaching  the  other  side  they  came  to  Glade 
Creek,  down  which  they  proceeded,  crossing  it  fre- 
quently into  the  glades  on  each  side,  where  the  timber 
was  small,  and  in  many  places  destroyed  by  fire :  there 
were  great  quantities  of  quamash  then  in  bloom. 
Throughout  the  glades  were  great  numbers  of  holes 
made  by  the  whistling  or  burrowing  squirrel ;  and  they 
killed  a  hare  of  the  large  mountain  species.  Along 
these  roads  there  were  also  appearances  of  old  buffalo 
paths,  and  some  old  heads  of  buffaloes;  and  as  these 
animals  evince  wonderful  sagacity  in  the  choice  of 
their  routes,  the  coincidence  of  a  buffalo  with  an  In- 
dian track  affords  the  strongest  evidence  that  it  is  the 
best.  In  the  afternoon  they  passed  along  the  hill  side, 
north  of  the  creek,  for  six  miles,  when  they  entered  an 
extensive  level  plain.  Here  the  Indian  tracks  scat- 
tered so  much  that  they  were  wholly  at  a  loss  which 
to  follow;  but  Sacajaweah  recognised  the  plain  imme- 
diately. She  had  travelled  it  often  during  her  child- 
hood, and  informed  them  that  it  was  greatly  resorted  to 
by  the  Shoshonees,  who  came  here  for  the  purpose  of 
gathering  quamash  and  of  taking  beaver,  with  which 
the  plain  abounded ;  that  Glade  Creek  was  a  branch  of 
Wisdom  River,  and  that,  on  reaching  the  more  elevated 
part  of  the  plain,  they  would  see  a  gap  in  the  moun- 
tains, on  the  route  to  the  canoes,  and  from  that  gap 
the  high  point  of  a  mountain  covered  with  snow.  At 
the  distance  of  a  mile  they  passed  over  a  large  creek 


VALUABLE  HORSES  MISSING  iai 

from  the  right ;  also  Fish  Creek,  coming  from  a  snowy 
mountain,  across  which  there  was  a  gap.  Soon  after, 
on  ascending  some  rising  ground,  the  country  spread 
itself  into  a  beautiful  plain,  extending  north  and  south 
about  fifteen  miles  wide  and  thirty  in  length,  and  sur- 
rounded on  all  sides  by  high  points  of  mountains  cov- 
ered with  snow,  among  which  was  the  gap  pointed  out 
by  the  squaw,  bearing  south  56°  east.  They  had  not 
gone  two  miles  from  the  last  creek  when  they  were 
overtaken  by  a  violent  storm  of  wind,  accompanied  by 
a  heavy  fall  of  rain,  which  lasted  an  hour  and  a  half. 
Having  no  shelter,  they  formed  a  solid  column  to  pro- 
tect themselves  from  the  gust,  and  then  went  on  five 
miles  to  a  small  creek,  where,  finding  some  wood,  they 
encamped  for  the  night,  and  dried  themselves.  Here 
they  observed  fresh  signs  of  Indians,  who  had  been 
gathering  quamash.  Their  distance  was  twenty-six 
miles.  In  the  morning, 

"July  7,  their  horses  were  so  much  scattered,  that, 
although  they  sent  out  hunters  to  range  the  country 
in  every  direction  for  six  or  eight  miles,  nine  of  them 
were  still  missing.  They  were  the  most  valuable  ones 
of  all,  and  so  much  attached  to  some  of  their  compan- 
ions that  it  was  difficult  to  separate  them  in  the  day- 
time. It  was  therefore  concluded  that  they  must  have 
been  stolen  by  some  roving  Indians,  and,  accordingly,  a 
party  of  five  men  was  left  to  continue  the  pursuit,  while 
the  rest  went  on  to  a  spot  where  the  canoes  had  been 
deposited.  They  set  out  at  ten  o'clock,  and  pursued  a 
course  south  50°  east  across  the  valley,  which  they 
found  to  be  watered  by  four  large  creeks,  with  exten- 
sive, low,  miry  bottoms,  till  they  reached  Wisdom 
River,  along  the  northeast  side  of  which  they  con- 


132     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

tinued,  when,  at  the  distance  of  sixteen  miles,  they 
came  to  the  three  branches.  Near  that  place  they  stop- 
'ped  for  dinner  at  a  hot  spring  situated  in  the  open 
plain.  The  bed  of  the  spring  is  about  fifteen  yards  in 
circumference,  and  composed  of  loose,  hard,  gritty 
stones,  through  which  the  water  boils  in  large  quan- 
tities. It  is  slightly  impregnated  with  sulphur,  and  so 
hot  that  a  piece  of  meat,  about  the  size  of  three  fingers, 
was  completely  done  in  twenty-five  minutes.  After 
dinner  they  proceeded  across  the  eastern  branch  and 
along  the  north  side  of  the  middle  branch  for  nine 
miles,  when  they  reached  the  gap  in  the  mountain^,  and 
took  a  final  leave  of  this  extensive  valley,  which  they 
called  the  Hot-spring  Valley.  It  is,  indeed,  a  beauti- 
ful country :  though  enclosed  by  mountains  covered 
with  snow,  the  soil  is  exceedingly  fertile,  and  well  sup- 
plied with  esculent  plants,  while  its  numerous  creeks 
furnish  immense  quantities  of  beaver.  Another  valley 
less  extensive  and  more  rugged  opened  itself  to  their 
view  as  they  passed  through  the  gap ;  but,  as  they  had 
made  twenty-five  miles,  and  the  night  was  advancing, 
they  halted  near  some  fine  springs  which  fall  into  Wil- 
lard's  Creek.  After  a  cold  night,  during  which  their 
horses  separated  and  could  not  be  collected  till  eight 
o'clock  in  the  morning, 

"  July  8,  they  crossed  the  valley  along  the  south- 
west side  of  Willard's  Creek  for  twelve  miles,  when  it 
entered  the  mountains,  and  then,  turning  S.  20°  E., 
they  came  to  the  Shoshonee  Cove,  after  riding  seven 
miles ;  thence  they  proceeded  down  the  west  branch  of 
Jefferson  River,  and  at  the  distance  of  nine  miles 
reached  its  forks,  where  we  had  deposited  our  mer- 
chandise in  the  month  of  August.  Most  of  the  men 


FONDNESS  OF  THE  MEN  FOR  TOBACCO  133 

i 

were  in  the  habit  of  chewing  tobacco;  and  such  was 
their  eagerness  to  procure  it  after  so  long  a  privation, 
that  they  scarcely  waited  to  take  the  saddles  from  their 
horses  before  they  ran  eagerly  to  the  cave,  and  were 
delighted  at  being  able  to  resume  this  fascinating  in- 
dulgence. This,  indeed,  was  one  of  the  most  trying 
privations  they  had  encountered.  Some  of  the  men, 
whose  tomahawks  were  formed  as  to  answer  the  pur- 
pose of  pipes,  even  broke  the  handles  of  these  weapons, 
and  chewed  them ;  the  wood  having,  by  frequent  smok- 

..  ing,  become  strongly  impregnated  with  the  taste  of 
that  plant.  They  found  everything  safe,  though  some 
of  the  goods  were  a  little  damp,  and  one  of  the  canoes 
had  a  hole  in  it.  The  ride  of  this  day  was  twenty-seven 
miles  in  length,  through  a  country  diversified  by  low, 
marshy  grounds,  and  high,  open,  stony  plains,  ter- 
minated by  lofty  mountains,  on  the  tops  and  along  the 
northern  sides  of  which  the  snow  still  remained.  Over 
the  whole  were  scattered  great  quantities  of  hyssop, 
and  the  different  species  of  shrubs  common  to  the 
plains  of  the  Missouri. 

"  They  had  now  crossed  from  Traveller's  Rest 
Creek  to  the  head  of  Jefferson's  River,  which  seems 
to  form  the  best  and  shortest  route  over  the  mountains 
during  almost  the  whole  distance  of  one  hundred  and 
sixty-four  miles.  It  is,  in  fact,  a  very  excellent  road; 
and  by  cutting  down  a  few  trees  it  might  be  rendered 
a  good  route  for  wagons,  with  the  exception  of  about 
four  miles  over  one  of  the  mountains,  which  would  re- 
quire some  leveling." 

The  next  day  was  spent  in  raising  and  repairing 
the  canoes,  and  in  the  course  of  it  they  were  joined  by 
Sergeant  Ordway  with  the  missing  horses. 


134     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

"  July  10.  This  morning,"  says  the  journal,  "  a 
white  frost  covered  the  ground,  the  grass  was  frozen, 
and  the  ice  three  quarters  of  an  inch  thick  in  a  basin  of 
water.  The  boats  were  now  loaded,  and  Captain  Clarke 
dividing  his  men  into  two  bands,  one  to  descend  the 
river  with  the  baggage,  while  he,  with  the  other,  should 
proceed  on  horseback  to  the  Yellowstone.  After  break- 
fast the  two  parties  set  out,  those  on  shore  skirting  the 
eastern  side  of  Jefferson  River,  through  Service  Valley, 
and  over  Rattlesnake  Mountain,  into  a  beautiful  and 
extensive  country,  known  among  the  Indians  by  the 
name  of  Hahnahappapelah,  of  Beaverhead  Valley,  from 
the  number  of  those  animals  found  in  it,  and  also  from 
a  point  of  land  resembling  the  head  of  a  beaver.  It 
extends  from  Rattlesnake  Mountain  as  low  as  Frazier's 
Creek,  and  is  about  fifty  miles  in  length  in  a  direct 
line,  while  its  width  varies  from  ten  to  fifteen  miles, 
being  watered  in  its  whole  course  by  the  Jefferson,  and 
six  different  creeks.  This  valley  is  open  and  fertile, 
and,  besides  the  vast  numbers  of  beaver  and  otter  on  its 
creeks,  the  bushy  low  grounds  are  a  favourite  resort 
for  deer,  while  on  the  higher  parts  of  the  valley  were 
seen  scattered  groups  of  antelopes,  and  beyond,  on  the 
steep  sides  of  the  mountains,  many  of  the  bighorn, 
taking  refuge  there  from  the  wolves  and  bears.  At  the 
distance  of  fifteen  miles  the  two  parties  stopped  to  dine, 
when  Captain  Clarke,  finding  that  the  river  became 
wider  and  deeper,  and  that  the  canoes  could  advance 
more  rapidly  than  the  horses,  determined  to  proceed 
himself  by  water,  leaving  Sergeant  Pryor,  with  six 
men,  to  bring  on  the  horses.  They  resumed  their  jour- 
ney after  dinner,  and  encamped  on  the  eastern  side  of 


GALLATIN  RIVER  135 

the  river,  opposite  to  the  head  of  Three-thousand-mile 
Island." 

The  two  following  days  they  continued  to  descend 
the  river,  passing  Philanthropy  and  Wisdom  Rivers, 
and  seeing  great  numbers  of  beaver  as  they  passed 
along. 

"  July  13.  Early  in  the  morning/'  continues  the 
narrative,  "  they  set  out,  and  at  noon  reached  the  en- 
trance of  Madison  River,  where  Sergeant  Pryor  had 
arrived  with  the  horses  about  an  hour  before ;  and, 
having  driven  them  across  Madison  and  Gallatin  Riv- 
ers, just  below  the  mouth  of  the  latter  the  party  halted 
to  dine  and  unload  the  canoes.  Here  they  again  sepa- 
rated ;  Sergeant  Ordway,  with  nine  men,  setting  out 
in  six  canoes  to  descend  the  river,  while  Captain 
Clarke,  with  the  remaining  ten,  the  wife  and  child  of 
Chaboneau,  and  fifty  horses,  were  to  proceed  by  land 
to  the  Yellowstone.  They  set  out  at  five  in  the  after- 
noon from  the  forks  of  the  Missouri,  in  a  direction 
nearly  east ;  but,  as  many  of  the  horses  had  sore  feet, 
they  were  obliged  to  move  slowly,  and  after  going  four 
miles  halted  for  the  night  on  the  bank  of  Gallatin 
River.  This  is  a  beautiful  stream,  and  though  rapid, 
and  obstructed  by  islands  near  its  mouth,  is  navigable 
for  canoes.  On  its  lower  side  the  land  rises  gradually 
to  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  running  almost  parallel 
with  it;  but  the  country  below  it  and  the  Madison 
River  is  a  level  plain,  covered  with  short  grass,  the  soil 
being  poor,  and  encumbered  with  stones  and  strata  of 
hard  white  rock  along  the  hill  sides.  Throughout  the 
whole,  game  was  very  abundant.  They  obtained  deer 
in  the  low  grounds ;  beaver  and  otter  were  seen  in  Gal- 
latin River ;  and  elk,  wolves,  eagles,  hawks,  crows,  and 

M.  of  H.— XXIX— 21 


136     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

geese  were  noticed  at  different  points  on  the  route. 
The  plain  was  intersected  by  several  great  roads,  lead- 
ing to  a  gap  in  the  mountain  about  twenty  miles  dis- 
tant, in  a  direction  E.  N.  E. ;  but  the  Indian  woman, 
who  was  acquainted  with  the  country,  recommended 
another  gap  more  to  the  south,  through  which  Cap- 
tain Clarke  determined  to  proceed." 

They  started  early  the  next  morning,  and,  pursu- 
ing the  course  recommended  by  the  squaw,  came  in 
the  afternoon  to  the  three  forks  of  Gallatin  River, 
and  in  the  evening  encamped  at  the  entrance  of  the 
gap  previously  mentioned  by  her. 

"  July  15.  After  an  early  breakfast,"  says  the  Jour- 
nal, "  they  proceeded  through  this  gap  to  the  heads 
of  the  eastern  fork  of  Gallatin  River,  near  which  they 
had  encamped  the  evening  before,  and  at  the  distance 
of  six  miles  reached  the  top  of  the  dividing  ridge 
which  separates  the  waters  of  the  Missouri  and  the 
Yellowstone,  on  descending  which  ridge  they  struck 
one  of  the  streams  of  the  latter  river.  They  followed 
its  course  through  an  open  country,  with  pine,  and 
watered  by  several  streams,  crowded  as  usual,  with 
beaver  dams.  Nine  miles  from  the  summit  of  the 
ridge  they  reached  the  Yellowstone  itself,  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  below  where  it  issues  from  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  It  now  appeared  that  the  communication 
between  the  two  rivers  was  short  and  easy.  The  dis- 
tance from  the  head  of  the  Missouri  at  its  three  forks 
to  this  place  is  forty-eight  miles,  the  greater  part  of 
which  is  through  a  level  plain :  while  from  the  forks 
of  the  eastern  branch  of  Gallatin  River,  which  is 
there  navigable  for  small  canoes,  to  this  part  of  the 
Yellowstone,  it  is  no  more  than  eighteen  miles,  with 


COUNTRY  ON  THE  YELLOWSTONE       is? 

an  excellent  road  over  a  high  dry  country,  the  hills 
being  of  considerable  height,  and  easily  passable. 
They  halted  for  three  hours  to  rest  their  horses,  and 
then  pursued  the  buffalo  road  along  the  bank  of  the 
river. 

"  Although  but  just  emerging  from  a  high  snowy 
mountain,  the  Yellowstone  is  here  a  bold,  rapid,  and 
deep  stream,  one  hundred  and  twenty  yards  in  width. 
The  bottoms  along  this  course  are  narrow  within  the 
mountains,  but  widen  to  the  extent  of  nearly  two 
miles  in  the  valley  below,  where  they  are  occasion- 
ally overflowed,  and  the  soil  gives  growth  to  cotton- 
wood,  rose-bushes,  honeysuckle,  rushes,  common 
coarse  grass,  a  species  of  rye,  and  various  produc- 
tions found  on  moist  lands.  On  each  side  these  low 
grounds  are  bordered  by  dry  plains  of  coarse  gravel 
and  sand,  stretching  back  to  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tains, and  supplied  with  a  very  short  grass.  The 
mountains  on  the  east  side  of  the  river  are  rough 
and  rocky,  and  were  still  covered  with  great  quan- 
tities of  the  snow :  while  two  other  high,  snowy  moun- 
tains were  seen  one  bearing  north  fifteen  or  twenty 
miles,  the  other  nearly  east.  They  had  no  cover- 
ing except  a  few  scattered  pine,  nor,  indeed,  could 
they  discover  any  timber  fit  even  for  a  small  canoe." 
At  the  distance  of  nine  miles  from  the  mountain 
they  passed  a  bold,  deep  stream  from  the  northwest, 
discharging  itself  into  the  Yellowstone,  and  to  which 
they  gave  the  name  of  Shields  River. 

They  continued  their  course  along  the  river  the 
following  day,  their  horses  being  unable  to  travel 
fast  in  consequence  of  the  soreness  of  their  feet,  and 
halted  in  the  evening  after  having  made  twenty-six 


138     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

miles.  On  the  17th  they  passed  two  large  creeks, 
entering  the  Yellowstone  nearly  opposite  to  each 
other;  the  one  coming  from  the  northeast  they  called 
Otter,  and  that  on  the  other  side  Beaver  River.  '  The 
river,"  says  the  Journal,  "  was  now  becoming  more 
divided  by  islands,  and  a  number  of  small  creeks  fell 
into  it  on  both  sides.  The  largest  of  these  was  about 
seven  miles  from  Beaver  River,  entering  on  the  right; 
they  called  it  Bratton's  River,  from  one  of  the  men. 
The  highlands,  too,  approached  more  nearly  than  be- 
fore ;  but,  although  their  sides  were  partially  supplied 
with  pine  and  cedar,  the  growth  was  too  small  for 
canoes.  The  buffalo  were  beginning  to  be  more  abun- 
dant, and  for  the  first  time  on  this  river  they  saw  a 
pelican ;  but  deer  and  elk  were  now  more  scarce  than 
before.  In  one  of  the  low  bottoms  of  the  river  was  an 
Indian  fort,  which  seemed  to  have  been  built  during 
the  previous  summer.  It  was  in  the  form  of  a  circle, 
about  fifty  feet  in  diameter,  five  feet  high,  and  formed 
of  logs  lapped  over  each  other,  covered  on  the  out- 
side with  bark  set  on  end.  The  entrance  was  guarded 
by  a  work  on  each  side  of  it  facing  the  river.  These 
intrenchments,  the  squaw  informed  us,  were  fre- 
quently made  by  the  Minnetarees  and  other  Indians 
at  war  with  the  Shoshonees,  when  pursued  by  their 
enemies  on  horseback." 

Gibson,  one  of  the  party,  was  so  badly  hurt  the 
following  day,  by  falling  on  a  sharp  point  of  wood, 
that  he  was  unable  to  sit  on  his  horse,  and  they  were 
obliged  to  form  a  sort  of  litter  for  him,  so  that  he 
could  lie  nearly  at  full  length.  The  wound  became 
so  pafnful,  however,  after  proceeding  a  short  distance, 
that  he  could  not  bear  the  motion,  and  they  left  him 


THE  INDIANS  STEAL  THEIR  HORSES     139 

with  two  men,  while  Captain  Clarke  went  to  search 
for  timber  large  enough  to  form  canoes.  He  suc- 
ceeded in  finding  some  trees  of  sufficient  size  for  small 
canoes,  two  of  which  he  determined  to  construct,  and 
by  lashing  them  together  hoped  to  make  them  answer 
the  purpose  of  conveying  the  party  down  the  river, 
while  a  few  of  his  men  should  conduct  the  horses  to 
the  Mandans.  All  hands,  therefore,  were  set  busily 
to  work,  and  they  were  employed  in  this  labour  for 
several  days.  In  the  mean  time  no  less  than  twenty- 
four  of  their  horses  were  missing,  and  they  strongly 
suspected  had  been  stolen  by  the  Indians  for  they 
were  unable  to  find  them,  notwithstanding  they  made 
the  most  diligent  search. 

"  July  23.  A  piece  of  robe  and  a  moccasin,"  says 
the  Journal,  "  were  discovered  this  morning  not  far 
from  the  camp.  The  moccasin  was  worn  out  in  the 
sole,  and  yet  wet,  and  had  every  appearance  of  having 
been  left  but  a  few  hours  before.  This  was  conclusive 
that  the  Indians  had  taken  our  horses,  and  were  still 
prowling  about  for  the  remainder,  which  fortunately 
escaped  last  night  by  being  in  a  small  prairie  sur- 
rounded by  thick  timber.  At  length  Labiche,  one  of 
our  best  trackers,  returned  from  a  very  wide  circuit, 
and  informed  Captain  Clarke  that  he  had  traced  the 
horses  bending  their  course  rather  down  the  river  to- 
wards the  open  plains,  and  from  their  tracks,  must 
have  been  going  very  rapidly.  All  hopes  of  recover- 
ing them  were  now  abandoned.  Nor  were  the  In- 
dians the  only  plunderers  around  our  camp ;  for  in  the 
night  the  wolves  or  dogs  stole  the  greater  part  of  the 
dried  meat  from  the  scaffold.  The  wolves,  which 
constantly  attend  the  buffalo,  were  here  in  great  num- 


140     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

bers,  as  this  seemed  to  be  the  commencement  of  the 
buffalo  country."  *  *  * 

"  At  noon  the  two  canoes  were  finished.  They 
were  twenty-eight  feet  long,  sixteen  or  eighteen  in- 
ches deep,  and  from  sixteen  to  twenty  four  inches 
wide;  and,  having  lashed  them  together,  everything 
was  ready  for  setting  out  the  next  day,  Gibson  having 
now  recovered.  Sergeant  Pryor  was  directed,  with 
Shannon  and  Windsor,  to  take  the  remaining  horses 
to  the  Mandans,  and  if  they  should  find  that  Mr.  Henry 
was  on  the  Assiniboin  River,  to  go  thither  and  deliver 
him  a  letter,  the  object  of  which  was  to  prevail  on  the 
most  distinguished  chiefs  of  the  Sioux  to  accompany 
him  to  Washington." 


CHAPTER  IX. 


Captain  Clarke  proceeds  down  the  River. — Description  of  an  Indian  Lodge. 
— Sergeant  Pryor  arrives  with  the  Horses. — Remarkable  Rock  seen  by 
Captain  Clarke,  and  the  Beauty  of  the  Prospect  from  its  Summit. — 
Yellowstone  and  Bighorn  Rivers  compared. — Immense  Herds  of  Buf- 
falo.— Fierceness  of  the  White  Bear. — Encamp  at  the  Junction  of  the 
Yellowstone  and  Missouri. — General  Outline  given  of  the  Yellowstone 
River. — Sufferings  of  the  Party  from  the  Moschetoes. — Sergeant  Pryor 
arrives,  and  reports  that  the  Horses  were  all  stolen  by  the  Indians. — 
In  this  Emergency  they  make  Canoes  of  Skins,  in  which  they  descend 
the  River  over  the  most  difficult  Shoals  and  Rapids. — Unexpectedly 
meet  with  two  White  Men,  from  whom  they  procure  Intelligence  in 
relation  to  the  Indians  formerly  visited  by  the  Party. 


J 


<f  ^  ULY  24.  The  canoes  were  loaded,  and  Sergeant 
Pryor  and  his  party  set  out,  with  orders  to  pro- 
ceed down  to  the  entrance  of  Bighorn  River, 
which  was  supposed  to  be  at  no  great  distance,  where 
they  would  be  taken  in  the  boats  across  the  Yellow- 
stone. At  eight  o'clock  Captain  Clarke  embarked, 
and  proceeded  on  very  steadily  down  the  river,  which 
contained  a  number  of  islands,  some  of  which  were 
supplied  with  a  growth  of  small  timber.  At  the  dis- 
tance of  a  mile  from  the  camp,  the  river  passed  along1 
a  high  bluff  for  about  twenty-three  miles,  when  the 
bottoms  widened  on  both  sides ;  and  twenty-nine 
miles  farther,  a  stream  fell  into  it  from  the  south, 
which  was  supposed  to  be  the  Bighorn;  but  after- 

141 


142     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

ward,  when  the  Bighorn  was  found,  the  name  of 
Clarke's  Fork  was  given  to  this  stream.  It  is  a  bold 
river,  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide  at  the  en- 
trance, but  a  short  distance  above  is  contracted  to 
a  hundred  yards.  The  water  is  of  a  light  muddy 
colour,  and  much  colder  than  that  of  the  Yellow- 
stone, and  its  general  course  is  southeasterly  from 
the  Rocky  Mountains.  There  is  a  small  island  sit- 
uated immediately  at  its  entrance,  and  this  or  the 
adjoining  mainland  would  form  a  very  good  position 
for  a  fort.  The  country  most  frequented  by  the 
beaver  begins  here,  and  that  which  lies  between  this 
river  and  the  Yellowstone  is  perhaps  the  best  dis- 
trict for  the  hunters  of  that  animal.  About  a  mile 
before  reaching  this  river  there  was  a  ripple  in  the 
Yellowstone,  on  passing  which  the  canoes  took  in 
some  water.  The  party  therefore  landed  to  bale  out 
the  boats,  and  then  proceeded  six  miles  farther  to  a 
large  island,  where  they  halted  for  the  purpose  of 
waiting  for  Sergeant  Pyror.  It  is  a  beautiful  spot, 
with  a  rich  soil,  covered  with  wild  lye,  and  a  spe- 
cies of  grass  like  the  blue  grass,  and  some  of  another 
kind,  which  the  Indians  wear  in  plaits  round  the  neck, 
on  account  of  its  fragrance,  resembling  that  of  the 
vanilla.  There  is  also  a  thin  growth  of  cottonwood. 
In  the  centre  was  a  large  Indian  lodge,  which  seemed 
to  have  been  built  during  the  preceding  summer.  It 
was  in  a  form  of  a  cone,  sixty  feet  in  diameter  at  the 
base,  composed  of  twenty  poles,  each  forty-five  feet 
long,  and  two  and  a  half  in  circumference,  and  the 
whole  structure  covered  with  bushes.  The  interior 
was  curiously  ornamented.  On  the  top  of  the  poles 
were  feathers  of  eagles,  and  circular  pieces  of  wood, 


INDIAN  LODGE  143 

with  sticks  across  them  in  the  form  of  a  girdle.  From 
the  centre  was  suspended  a  stuffed  buffalo  skin ;  front- 
ing the  door  was  hung  a  cedar  bush;  on  one  side  of 
the  lodge,  a  buffalo's  head;  and  on  the  other,  several 
pieces  of  wood  were  stuck  in  the  ground.  From  its 
whole  appearance,  it  was  more  like  a  building  for 
holding  councils  than  an  ordinary  lodge.  Sergeant 
Pryor  not  having  yet  arrived,  they  went  on  about  fif- 
teen and  a  half  miles  farther,  to  a  small  creek  on  the 
right,  to  which  they  gave  the  name  of  Horse  Creek, 
and  just  below  it  they  overtook  him  with  the  horses. 
He  had  found  it  almost  impossible,  with  two  men,  to 
drive  them  on;  for,  as  soon  as  they  discovered  a 
herd  of  buffalo,  the  loose  horses,  having  been  trained 
by  the  Indians  to  hunt  this  animal,  immediately  set 
off  in  pursuit,  and  surrounded  the  herd  with  almost 
as  much  skill  as  their  riders  could  have  done.  At 
last  he  was  obliged  to  send  one  horseman  forward, 
to  drive  all  the  buffalo  from  their  route.  The  horses 
were  here  driven  across,  and  Sergeant  Pryor  started 
again,  with  an  additional  man  to  his  party."  As  they 
proceeded,  the  river  deepened  and  became  more  navi- 
gable; they  passed  a  creek  coming  from  the  southeast, 
which  they  called  Pryor's  Creek,  and  landed  in  the  eve- 
ning after  having  made  sixty-nine  and  a  half  miles. 

"July  25.  At  sunrise  they  resumed  their  voyage, 
and  passed  a  number  of  small  islands  and  streams, 
and  occasionally  high  bluffs,  composed  of  a  yellow 
gritty  stone.  After  proceeding  a  short  distance  they 
were  overtaken  by  a  storm  of  rain,  with  a  high  south- 
west wind,  which  obliged  them  to  land  and  form  a 
sort  of  log  hut  covered  with  deerskins.  As  soon  as  it 
ceased  they  went  on;  and  at  about  four  o'clock,  after 


144     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

having  made  forty-nine  miles,  Captain  Clarke  landed 
to  examine  a  very  remarkable  rock,  situated  in  an  ex- 
tensive bottom  on  the  right,  about  two  hundred  and 
fifty  paces  from  the  shore.  It  is  nearly  two  hundred 
paces  in  circumference,  two  hundred  feet  high,  and 
accessible  only  from  the  northeast,  the  other  sides 
consisting  of  perpendicular  cliffs  of  a  light-coloured 
gritty  stone.  The  soil  on  the  summit  is  five  or  six 
feet  deep,  of  a  good  quality,  and  covered  with  short 
grass.  The  Indians  have  carved  the  figures  of  animals 
and  other  objects  on  the  sides  of  the  rock,  and  on  the 
top  are  raised  two  piles  of  stones.  From  this  height 
the  eye  ranged  over  a  wide  extent  of  variegated  coun- 
try. On  the  southwest  were  the  Rocky  Mountains 
covered  with  snow;  there  was  a  low  mountain  about 
forty  miles  distant,  in  a  direction  north  55°  west;  and 
at  the  distance  of  thirty-five  miles,  the  southern  ex- 
tremity of  what  are  called  the  Little  Wolf  Mountains. 
The  low  grounds  of  the  river  extended  nearly  six  miles 
to  the  southward,  when  they  rose  into  plains  reach- 
ing to  the  mountains,  and  were  watered  by  a  large 
creek ;  while  at  some  distance  below,  a  range  of  high- 
land, covered  with  pine,  stretched  on  both  sides  of  the 
river  in  a  direction  north  and  south.  The  north  side  of 
the  river,  for  some  distance,  is  here  surrounded  by  jut- 
ting romantic  cliffs,  succeeded  by  rugged  hills,  beyond 
which  the  plains  are,  again  open  and  extensive,  and 
the  whole  country  was  enlivened  by  herds  of  buffalo, 
elk,  and  wolves.  After  enjpying  the  prospect  from  this 
rock,  to  which  Captain  Clarke  gave  the  name  of  Pom- 
pey's  Pillar,  he  descended  and  continued  his  route.  At 
the  distance  of  six  or  seven  miles  he  stopped  to  secure 
two  bighorns  which  had  been  shot  from  the  boat ;  and 


BIGHORN  AND  YELLOWSTONE  RIVERS   145 

while  on  shore,  saw,  in  the  face  of  the  cliff  on  the  left, 
about  twenty  feet  above  the  water,  a  fragment  of  the 
rib  of  a  fish,  three  feet  long  and  nearly  three  inches 
round,  incrusted  in  the  rock  itself,  and  which,  though 
neither  decayed  nor  petrified,  was  very  rotten.  After 
making  fifty-eight  miles  they  reached  the  entrance  of 
a  stream  on  the  right,  about  twenty-two  yards  wide, 
where  they  encamped. 

"  July  26.  They  started  early  the  next  morning. 
The  river  was  now  much  divided  by  stony  islands  and 
bars,  but  the  current,  though  swift,  was  regular,  and 
there  were  many  very  handsome  islands  covered  with 
cottonwood.  On  the  left  shore  the  bottoms  were  very 
extensive ;  the  right  bank  was  formed  of  high  cliffs  of 
a  whitish  gritty  stone ;  and  beyond,  the  country  on 
both  sides  was  diversified  with  waving  plains  covered 
with  pine."  *  *  *  "  At  length,  after  coming  sixty-two 
miles,  they  landed  at  the  entrance  of  the  Bighorn 
River;  but  finding  the  point  between  the  two  com- 
posed of  soft  mud  and  sand,  and  liable  to  be  over- 
flowed, they  ascended  the  Bighorn  for  half  a  mile, 
then  crossed,  and  formed  a  camp  on  its  lower  side." 
*  *  *  "  At  their  junction  the  two  rivers  are  nearly 
equal  in  breadth,  extending  from  two  hundred  to  two 
hundred  and  twenty  yards ;  but  the  Yellowstone  con- 
tains much  more  water,  being  ten  or  twelve  feet  deep, 
while  the  depth  of  the  Bighorn  varies  from  five  to 
seven  feet.  This  is  the  river  which  had  been  described 
by  the  Indians  as  rising  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  near 
the  Yellowstone  and  the  sources  of  the  Platte,  and 
then  finding  its  way  through  the  Cote  Noir  and  the 
eastern  range  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  In  its  long 
course  it  receives  two  large  rivers,  one  from  the  north 


i-iG     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

and  the  other  from  the  south,  and  being  unobstructed 
by  falls,  is  navigable  in  canoes  for  a  great  distance, 
through  a  fine,  rich,  open  country,  supplied  with  a 
great  quantity  of  timber,  and  inhabited  by  beaver  and 
numerous  species  of  other  animals,  among  which  are 
those  from  which  it  derives  its  name  of  Bighorn.  There 
are  no  permanent  settlements  near  it ;  but  the  whole 
country  watered  by  it  is  occasionally  visited  by  roving 
bands  of  hunters  of  the  Crow  Tribe,  by  the  Paunch  In- 
dians, also  a  band  of  Crows,  and  by  the  Castahanas, 
a  small  band  of  the  Snake  Indians. 

"  July  27.  They  again  set  out  very  early,  and  on 
leaving  the  Bighorn,  took  a  last  look  at  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  which  had  been  constantly  in  view  from 
the  1st  of  May.  The  river  now  widened  to  the  extent 
of  from  four  to  six  hundred  yards,  was  much  divided 
by  islands  and  sand-bars,  and  its  banks  were  generally 
low  and  falling  in,  and  resembled  those  of  the  Mis- 
souri in  many  particulars ;  but  its  islands  were  more 
numerous,  its  waters  less  muddy,  and  its  current  more 
rapid/'  *  *  *  "  Throughout  the  country  there  were 
vast  numbers  of  buffalo,  which  kept  up  a  continued 
bellowing.  Large  herds  of  elk,  also,  were  lying  on 
every  point,  and  were  so  gentle  that  they  might  be  ap- 
proached within  twenty  paces  without  being  alarmed. 
Several  beaver,  likewise,  were  seen  in  the  course  of 
the  day.  Deer,  however,  were  by  no  means  abundant, 
and  antelopes  as  well  as  the  bighorns  were  scarce." 
They  made  this  day  eighty  and  a  half  miles,  and  en- 
camped on  a  large  island  in  the  evening. 

"  July  28.  At  daylight  the  next  morning  they  pro- 
ceeded down  the  smooth,  gentle  current,  passing  by  a 
number  of  islands,  and  several  creeks  which  were  now 


DRY  BEDS  OF  RIVERS  U7 

dry.  These  are,  indeed,  more  like  the  beds  of  the  dry 
brooks  of  the  Missouri,  merely  serving  to  carry  off 
the  vast  quantities  of  water  that  fall  on  the  plains, 
and  bringing  down  also  a  great  deal  of  mud,  which 
contributes  to  the  discoloration  of  the  Yellowstone. 
The  largest  of  these  are,  at  the  distance  of  six  miles, 
a  creek  eighty  yards  in  width,  coming  from  the  north- 
west, and  called  by  the  Indians  Little  Wolf  River; 
twenty-nine  miles  lower,  another  on  the  left,  seventy 
yards  in  width,  which  they  named  Table  Creek,  from 
several  mounds  in  the  plains  to  the  northwest,  the  tops 
of  which  resemble  a  table;  and  four  miles  farther,  a 
stream  of  more  importance,  entering  behind  an  is- 
land from  the  south.  This  last  is  about  one  hundred 
yards  in  width,  with  a  bold  current  of  muddy  water, 
and  is  probably  the  river  called  by  the  Indians  the 
Little  Bighorn.  There  is  also  another  stream  on  the 
right,  twenty-five  yards  wide,  the  Indian  name  of 
which  is  Mashaskap.  Nearly  opposite  to  this  creek 
they  encamped,  after  making  seventy-three  miles." 

The  channel  was  now  from  five  hundred  yards  to 
half  a  mile  in  width.  They  continued  to  pass  the  beds 
of  rivers  that  were  then  dry ;  and  in  the  evening  of  the 
29th,  after  making  forty-one  miles,  they  encamped  op- 
posite to  the  entrance  of  a  stream  coming  from  the 
right,  called  by  the  Indians  Lazeka,  or  Tongus  River. 

"  July  30.  They  set  out  at  an  early  hour,  and  after 
passing,  at  the  distance  of  twelve  miles,  the  bed  of  a 
river  one  hundred  yards  wide,  but  then  nearly  dry, 
reached,  two  miles  below  it,  a  succession  of  bad  shoals, 
extending  for  six  miles,  the  rock  near  their  termina- 
tion stretching  nearly  across  the  river,  with  a  descent 
of  about  three  feet.  At  this  place  they  were  obliged  to 


148     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

let  their  canoes  down  by  hand,  for  fear  of  their  strik- 
ing on  some  concealed  rock ;  though,  with  a  perfect 
knowledge  of  the  shoals,  a  large  canoe  might  be  nav- 
igated down  with  safety.  This  is  the  most  difficult 
part  of  the  Yellowstone  River,  and  they  called  it  the 
Buffalo  Shoal,  from  the  circumstance  of  one  of  those 
animals  being  found  there.  The  neighbouring  cliffs 
on  the  right  are  about  one  hundred  feet  high,  while  on 
the  left  the  country  is  low,  but  gradually  rises,  and  at 
some  distance  from  the  shore  presents  the  first  appear- 
ance of  burned  hills  to  be  seen  on  the  Yellowstone." 
Twenty  miles  beyond  they  came  to  a  rapid  with  a 
channel  that  was  easily  navigable  on  the  left,  and 
which  they  called  Bear  Rapid.  They  landed  for  the 
night  about  a  mile  and  a  half  below  the  mouth  of  a 
stream  coming  in  from  the  right,  one  hundred  yards 
in  width,  to  which  they  gave  the  name  of  the  Redstone 
River,  having  made  during  the  day  forty-eight  miles. 
"  July  31.  During  the  whole  night,"  continues  the 
Journal,  "  the  buffalo  were  hovering  about  the  camp, 
and  excited  much  alarm  lest  they  should  tread  on  the 
boats  and  split  them  to  pieces.  They  set  out,  as 
usual,  and  at  the  distance  of  two  miles  passed  a  rapid 
that  was  not  very  formidable,  which  they  called  Wolf 
Rapid.  At  this  place  commences  a  range  of  highlands. 
They  have  no  timber,  and  are  composed  of  earth  of 
different  colours,  without  much  rock,  but  supplied 
throughout  with  great  quantities  of  coal  or  carbon- 
ated wood.  After  passing  these  hills  the  country  again 
opens  into  extensive  plains,  like  those  passed  the  pre- 
vious day,  the  river  being  diversified  with  islands,  and 
having  a  great  number  of  wide,  but  then  nearly  dry, 
brooks  on  either  side.  Thus  eighteen  miles  below  their 


VAST  HERDS  OF  BUFFALO  «9 

camp  there  was  a  shallow,  muddy  stream  on  the  left, 
one  hundred  yards  wide,  and  supposed  to  be  that 
known  among"  the  Indians  by  the  name  of  Saasha,  or 
Little  Wolf  River;  five  miles  below,  on  the  right,  an- 
other, forty  yards  wide  and  four  feet  in  depth,  which, 
from  the  steep  coal-banks  on  each  side,  they  called 
Oaktaroup,  or  Coal  River;  and  eighteen  miles  farther, 
a  third,  sixty  yards  in  width,  to  which  they  gave  the 
name  of  Gibson's  River.  Having  made  sixty-six  miles, 
they  stopped  for  the  night;  and  just  as  they  landed, 
perceived  a  white  bear,  which  was  larger  than  any  of 
the  party  had  before  seen,  devouring  a  dead  buffalo  on 
a  sand-bar.  Though  they  fired  two  balls  into  him, 
still  he  swam  to  the  mainland  and  walked  along  the 
shore.  Captain  Clarke  pursued  him,  and  lodged  two 
more  balls  in  his  body;  he  bled  profusely,  but  still 
made  his  escape,  as  the  night  prevented  them  from  fol- 
lowing him." 

The  next  day,  August  1st,  they  had  a  strong  head- 
wind, which  retarded  their  progress,  and  their  situa- 
tion was  rendered  very  uncomfortable  by  continual 
rain.  "?  The  current  of  the  river,"  proceeds  the  Journal, 
"  was  less  rapid,  had  more  soft  mud,  and  was  more  ob- 
structed by  sand-bars,  and  the  rain  had  greatly  in- 
creased the  quantity  of  water  in  the  brooks.  Buffalo 
now  appeared  in  vast  numbers.  A  herd  happened  to 
be  crossing  the  river ;  and  such  was  the  multitude  of 
these  animals,  that  for  a  mile  in  length,  down  the  river, 
the  herd  stretched  as  thick  as  they  could  swim,  com- 
pletely from  one  side  to  the  other,  and  the  party  were 
obliged  to  stop  for  an  hour.  They  consoled  them- 
selves for  the  delay  by  killing  four  of  them,  and  then 
proceeded,  till  at  the  distance  of  forty-five  miles  they 


150    LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

reached  an  island,  below  which  two  other  herds  of 
buffalo,  as  numerous  as  the  first,  soon  afterward 
crossed  the  river.  *  *  * 

"  August  2.  The  river  was  now  about  a  mile  wide, 
less  rapid,  and  more  divided  by  islands,  and  bars  of 
sand  and  mud,  than  heretofore ;  the  low  grounds,  too, 
were  more  extensive,  and  contained  a  greater  quantity 
of  cottonwood,  ash,  and  willows.  On  the  northwest 
was  a  low,  level  plain,  and  on  the  southeast  some  rug- 
ged hills,  on  which  we  saw,  without  being  able  to  ap- 
proach them,  some  bighorns.  Buffalo  and  elk,  as  well 
as  their  pursuers,  the  wolves,  were  in  great  numbers. 
On  each  side  of  the  river  there  were  several  dry  beds 
of  streams,  but  the  only  one  of  any  considerable  size 
was  one  to  which  they  gave  the  name  of  Ibex  River, 
on  the  right,  about  thirty  yards  wide,  and  sixteen  miles 
from  their  encampment  of  the  preceding  night.  The 
bear,  which  had  given  them  so  much  trouble  at  the 
head  of  the  Missouri,  they  found  equally  fierce  here. 
One  of  these  animals,  which  was  on  a  sand-bar  as  the 
boat  passed,  raised  himself  on  his  hind  feet,  and  after 
looking  at  the  party  for  a  moment,  plunged  in  and 
swam  towards  them ;  but,  after  receiving  three  balls  in 
the  body,  he  turned  and  made  for  the  shore.  Towards 
evening  they  saw  another  enter  the  water  to  swim 
across ;  when  Captain  Clarke  directed  the  boat  towards 
the  shore,  and  just  as  the  animal  landed  shot  it  in  the 
head.  It  proved  to  be  the  largest  female  they  had  ever 
seen,  and  was  so  old  that  its  tusks  were  worn  quite 
smooth.  The  boats  escaped  with  difficulty  between 
two  herds  of  buffalo  that  were  crossing  the  river,  and 
came  near  being  again  detained  by  them.  Among  the 
elk  of  this  neighbourhood  they  saw  an  unusual  number 


DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  YELLOWSTONE   151 

of  males,  while  higher  up  the  herds  consisted  chiefly 
of  females.  After  making  eighty-four  miles,  they  en- 
camped among  some  ash  and  elm  trees  on  the  right. 
They  might  be  said  rather  to  have  passed  the  night 
than  slept  there,  however,  for  th'e  moschetoes  were  so 
troublesome  that  scarcely  any  of  the  party  closed 
their  eyes. 

"  August  3.  They  set  out  early  in  the  morning  to 
escape  the  persecution  of  the  moschetoes.  At  the  dis- 
tance of  two  miles  they  passed  Field's  Creek,  a  stream 
thirty-five  yards  wide,  which  enters  on  the  right,  im- 
mediately above  a  high  bluff  which  is  rapidly  sinking 
into  the  river.  Here  Captain  Clarke  went  ashore  in 
pursuit  of  some  bighorns,  but  the  moschetoes  were  so 
numerous  that  he  was  unable  to  aim  with  certainty. 
He  therefore  returned  to  the  canoes ;  and,  observing  a 
ram  of  the  same  species  soon  after,  he  sent  on  shore 
one  of  the  hunters,  who  shot  it,  and  it  was  preserved 
as  a  specimen.  Eight  miles  below  Field's  Creek  they 
reached  the  junction  of  the  Yellowstone  and  the  Mis- 
souri, and  landed  at  the  point  where  they  had  en- 
camped on  the  26th  of  April  the  previous  year.  The 
canoes  were  now  unloaded,  and  the  baggage  exposed 
to  dry,  as  many  of  the  articles  were  wet,  and  some  of 
them  quite  spoiled 

"  The  Roche  jaune,  or  Yellowstone  River,  according 
to  the  Indian  accounts,  has  its  remote  sources  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  near  the  peaks  of  the  Rio  del  Norte, 
on  the  confines  of  New  Mexico,  to  which  country  there 
is  a  good  road  for  the  whole  distance  along  the  banks 
of  the  Yellowstone.  Its  western  waters  are  probably 
connected  with  those  of  Lewis's  River,  while  the  east- 
ern branches  approach  the  heads  of  Ctarke's  River,  of 

M.  of  H.— XXIX— 22 


152     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

the  Bighorn,  and  the  Platte ;  so  that  it  waters  the  mid- 
dle portion  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  for  several  hun- 
dred miles,  from  northwest  to  southeast.  Along  its 
whole  Course,  from  the  point  where  Captain  Clarke 
reached  it  to  the  Missouri,  a  distance  which  he  com- 
puted at  eight  hundred  and  thirty-seven  miles,  it  is 
large,  and  navigable  for  pirogues,  and  even  batteaux, 
there  being  none  of  the  moving  sand-bars  which  ob- 
struct the  navigation  of  the  Missouri;  while  there  is 
but  one  ledge  of  rocks,  and  this  is  not  difficult  to  pass. 
Even  its  tributary  streams,  the  Bighorn,  Clarke's  Fork, 
and  Tongue  River,  may  be  ascended  in  boats  for  a  con- 
siderable distance.  The  banks  of  the  Yellowstone  are 
low,  but  bold,  and  nowhere  subject  to  be  overflowed, 
except  for  a  short  distance  from  the  mountains. 
The  predominating  colour  of  its  waters  is  a  yellowish 
brown ;  while  those  of  the  Missouri,  which  have  more 
mud,  are  of  a  deep  drab  colour.  The  bed  of  the  former 
is  chiefly  composed  of  loose  pebble,  which  diminish  in 
size,  however,  in  descending  the  river,  till,  after  pass- 
ing the  Lazeka,  they  cease  as  the  river  widens,  and 
mud  and  sand  below  this  form  the  greater  part  of  the 
bottom.  The  current  flows  with  a  velocity  constantly 
and  equably  decreasing  in  receding  from  the  moun- 
tains. From  the  mountains  to  Clarke's  Fork  it  may 
be  estimated  at  four  and  a  half  miles  an  hour;  thence 
as  low  as  the  Bighorn,  at  three  and  a  half;  between 
that  and  the  Lazeka,  at  three ;  from  that  river  to  the 
Wolf  Rapid,  at  two  and  three  quarter  miles ;  and  from 
thence  to  the  mouth  of  the  river,  at  two  miles  per 
hour. 

"  The  appearance  and  character  of  the  country  pre- 
sents nearly  similar  varieties  of  fertile,  rich,  open  lands. 


TRADING  POST  ON  YELLOWSTONE       153 

Above  Clark's  Fork  it  consists  of  high  waving  plains, 
bordered  by  stony  hills,  partially  covered  with  pine : 
the  middle  portion,  as  low  as  Buffalo  Shoal,  contains 
less  timber,  and  the  number  of  trees  diminishes  in  pro- 
ceeding lower  down,  till,  where  the  river  widens,  the 
country  spreads  itself  into  extensive  plains.  Like  all 
the  branches  of  the  Missouri  which  penetrate  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  the  Yellowstone  and  its  tributary 
streams  within  the  district  of  country  beyond  Clarke's 
Fork  abound  in  beaver  and  otter:  a  circumstance 
which  strongly  recommends  the  mouth  of  the  latter 
river  as  a  judicious  position  for  a  trading  estab- 
lishment. To  such  an  establishment  at  that  point,  the 
Shoshonees  both  from  within  and  westward  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  would  willingly  resort,  as  they 
would  be  farther  from  the  Blackfoot  Indians  and  the 
Minnetarees  of  Fort  de  Prairie  than  in  trading  with 
any  factories  on  the  Missouri.  The  same  motive  of 
personal  safety  would  probably  induce  many  of  the 
tribes  on  the  Columbia  and  Lewis  Rivers  to  prefer 
this  place  to  the  mouth  of  Maria's  River,  at  least 
for  some  years ;  and  as  the  Crow  and  Paunch  Indians, 
the  Castahanas,  and  the  Indians  residing  south  of 
Clarke's  Fork,  would  also  be  induced  to  visit  it,  this 
position  might  be  considered  as  one  of  the  best  points 
for  the  western  fur-trade.  The  adjacent  country,  too, 
possesses  a  sufficiency  of  timber,  an  advantage  which 
is  not  found  anywhere  between  Clarke's  Fork  and  the 
Rocky  Moutains.  *  *  * 

"  August  5.  Their  camp  became  absolutely  unin- 
habitable from  the  multitudes  of  moschetoes;  nor 
could  the  men  either  work  in  preparing  skins  for 
clothing,  or  hunt  in  the  low  timbered  grounds ;  in 


154     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

short,  there  was  no  method  of  escape  but  by  going  on 
the  sand-bars  in  the  river,  where,  when  the  wind  blew, 
the  insects  did  not  venture."  *  *  *  "  Captain  Clarke 
therefore  determined  to  remove  to  some  spot  that 
would  be  free  from  moschetoes,  and  afford  more  game. 
After  writing  a  note  to  Captain  Lewis,  therefore,  to 
inform  him  of  his  intention,  he  stuck  it  on  a  pole  at 
the  confluence  of  the  two  rivers,  loaded  the  canoes  at 
five  in  the  afternoon,  and  proceeded  down  the  river  to 
the  second  point,  where  he  encamped  on  a  sand-bar ; 
but  here  their  tormentors  appeared  to  be  even  more 
numerous  than  above.  The  face  of  the  Indian  child 
was  swollen  with  the  bites  of  these  insects,  nor  could 
the  men  procure  scarcely  any  sleep  during  the  night. 

"  August  5.  Finding  their  situation  intolerable 
where  they  were,  they  proceeded  farther  down.  On 
the  way  Captain  Clarke  went  on  shore,  and  ascended 
a  hill  in  pursuit  of  a  bighorn ;  but  the  moschetoes  were 
in  such  multitudes  that  he  could  not  keep  them  from 
the  barrel  of  his  rifle  long  enough  to  take  aim.  At 
about  ten  o'clock,  however,  a  light  breeze  sprung  up 
from  the  northwest,  and  in  some  measure  dispersed 
them.  Captain  Clarke  then  landed  on  a  sand-bar, 
where  he  intended  to  wait  for  Captain  Lewis ;  but,  not 
finding  buffalo  in  the  neighbourhood,  he  proceeded  on 
again  in  the  afternoon,  and  after  killing  a  large  white 
bear,  encamped  under  a  high  bluff,  exposed  to  a  light 
breeze  from  the  southwest,  which  drove  away  the  mos- 
chetoes." 

The  next  day  they  continued  to  descend,  and  en- 
camped on  a  sand-bar  below  the  mouth  of  Whiteearth 
River;  and  on  tfce  7th,  after  proceeding  till  six  in  the 


SKIN  CANOES  155 

evening,    they   again   landed   on   a    sand-bar    for   the 
night. 

"  August  8.  In  the  morning  they  were  here  joined 
by  Sergeant  Pryor,  accompanied  by  Shannon,  Hall, 
and  Windsor,  but  without  the  horses.  They  stated 
that,  the  second  day  after  leaving  the  party,  they  halted 
to  let  the  horses  graze  near  the  bed  of  a  large  creek 
which  contained  no  running  water,  but  that,  soon  after, 
a  shower  of  rain  fell,  and  the  creek  swelled  so  suddenly 
that  several  horses  which  had  strayed  across  it  while 
dry  could  return  only  by  swimming.  They  formed 
the'ir  camp  at  this  place,  but  were  astonished  next 
morning  at  not  being  able  to  find  a  single  one  of  their 
horses.  They  immediately  examined  the  neighbour- 
hood, and  soon  discovering  the  tracks  of  the  Indians 
who  had  stolen  the  horses,  they  pursued  them  for  five 
miles,  when  they  came  to  the  place  where  the  fugitives 
divided  into  two  parties.  They  now  followed  the 
largest  party  five  miles  farther,  when,  losing  all  hopes 
of  overtaking  them,  they  returned  to  the  camp,  and 
packing  the  baggage  on  their  backs,  pursued  a  north- 
east course  towards  the  Yellowstone.  The  following 
night  a  wolf  bit  Sergeant  Pryor  through  the  hand  as 
he  lay  asleep,  and  made  an  attempt  to  seize  Windsor, 
when  Shannon  got  sight  of  him,  and  shot  him.  They 
passed  over  an  open,  broken  country,  and  having 
reached  the  Yellowstone  near  Pompey's  Pillar,  they 
determined  to  descend  it,  and  for  this  purpose  made 
two  skin  canoes,  such  as  they  had  seen  among  the 
Mandans  and  Ricaras.  They  are  constructed  in  the 
following  manner :  two  sticks  of  about  an  inch  and 
a  quarter  in  diameter  are  tied  together  so  as  to  form 
a  round  hoop,  which  serves  for  the  gunwale,  while  a 


156     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

second  hoop  for  the  bottom  is  made  in  the  same  way, 
both  being  secured  by  sticks  of  the  same  size  ex- 
tended from  the  hoops,  and  fastened  to  them  and  to 
each  other  by  thongs.  Over  this  frame  the  skin  is 
drawn  closely  and  tied  with  thongs,  so  as  to  form  a 
perfect  basin  of  about  seven  feet  in  diameter  and  six- 
teen inches  in  depth,  strengthened  by  sixteen  ribs  or 
cross-sticks,  and  capable  of  carrying  six  or  eight  men 
with  their  burdens.  Being  unacquainted  with  the 
river,  they  thought  it  most  prudent  to  divide  their 
guns  and  ammunition,  so  that  in  case  of  accident  all 
might  not  be  lost,  and  for  this  purpose  built  two  of 
these  canoes.  In  these  frail  vessels  they  embarked, 
and  were  not  a  little  surprised  at  the  perfect  safety 
with  which  they  passed  over  the  most  difficult  shoals 
and  rapids,  without  taking  in  any  water,  even  in  the 
highest  winds. 

"  On  reaching  the  confluence  of  the  Yellowstone  i 
and   Missouri,    Sergeant   Pryor   took    down   the   note  j 
from  the  pole,  supposing  that  Captain  Lewis  had  al- 
ready passed ;  and  now  learning  where  the  party  were, 
he  pressed  on  with  his  skin  canoes  to  join  them. 

"  The  day  was  spent  in  hunting,  in  order  to  pro- 
cure skins  to  trade  with  the  Mandans ;  for,  having  now 
neither  horses  nor  merchandise,  their  only  resource  to  j 
obtain  corn  and  beans  was  to  lay  in  a  stock  of  skins, 
which  those  Indians  greatly  admire." 

The  next  day  they  continued  their  route  down  the 
river  till  late  in  the  evening,  and  encamped  on  the 
southeast  side,  where  they  remained  until  the  llth. 
"  In  the  low  grounds  of  the  river/'  continues  the  Jour- 
nal, "  Captain  Clarke  found  a  species  of  cherry  which 
he  had  never  seen  before,  and  which  seems  peculiar  to 


THEY  MEET  TWO  TRADERS  157 

this  small  district  of  country,  though  even  here  it  is 
not  very  abundant.  The  men  also  dug  up  quantities 
of  a  large  and  very  insipid  root,  called  by  the  Indians 
hankee,  and  by  the  engages  the  white  apple.  It  is  used 
by  them  in  a  dry,  pounded  state,  to  mix  with  their 
soup ;  but  our  men  boiled  it  and  ate  it  with  meat.  In 
descending  the  river  the  day  before,  the  squaw  brought 
in  a  large,  well-flavoured  gooseberry,  of  a  rich  crimson 
colour;  and  also  a  deep  purple  berry,  being  a  species 
of  currant  common  along  this  river  as  low  as  the  Man- 
dans,  and  called  by  the  engages  the  Indian  currant. 

"  August  11.  They  set  out  early  in  the  morning, 
and  at  about  ten  o'clock  landed  on  a  sand-bar  for  the 
purpose  of  taking  breakfast  and  drying  their  meat. 
At  noon  they  started  again,  and  after  proceeding  about 
two  miles,  observed  a  canoe  near  the  shore.  They 
immediately  landed,  and  were  no  less  surprised  than 
gratified  at  discovering  two  men  by  the  names  of  Dick- 
son  and  Hancock,  who  had  come  from  the  Illinois  on 
a  hunting  excursion  up  the  Yellowstone.  They  had 
left  the  Illinois  in  the  summer  of  1804,  and  spent  the 
last  winter  with  the  Tetons,  in  company  with  a  Mr. 
£eautoin,  who  came  there  as  a  trader,  and  whom  they 
had  robbed,  or,  in  other  words,  taken  all  his  merchan- 
dise and  given  him  a  few  robes  in  exchange.  These 
men  had  met  the  boat  we  had  despatched  from  Fort 
Mandan,  on  board  of  which  they  were  told  there  was  a 
Ricara  chief  on  his  way  to  Washington,  and  also  a 
party  of  Yankton  chiefs,  accompanying  Mr.  Durion 
on  a  visit  of  the  same  kind.  We  were  sorry  te  learn 
that  the  Mandans  and  Minnetarees  were  at  war  with 
the  Ricaras,  and  had  killed  two  of  them.  The  Assini- 
boins,  too,  were  at  war  with  the  Mandans.  They  had, 


158     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

in  consequence,  prohibited  the  Northwest  Company 
from  trading  to  the  Missouri,  and  even  killed  two  of 
their  traders  near  Mouse  River,  and  were  now  lying 
in  wait  for  Mr.  M'Kenzie  of  that  company,  who  had 
been  for  a  long  time  among  the  Minnetarees.  These  ap- 
pearances were  rather  unfavorable  to  the  project  of 
carrying  some  of  the  chiefs  to  the  United  States;  but 
we  still  hoped  that  by  effecting  a  peace  between  the 
Mandans,  Minnetarees,  and  Ricaras,  the  views  of  our 
government  might  still  be  accomplished. 

"  After  leaving  these  trappers,  Captain  Clarke  went 
on  and  encamped  nearly  opposite  to  the  entrance  of 
Coatpen  Creek,  where  the  party  were  again  assailed  by 
thefr  old  enemies  the  moschetoes." 


CHAPTER  X. 

Captain  Clarke  and  his  Party  are  overtaken  by  the  Detachment  under 
Captain  Lewis,  and  they  all  descend  the  Missouri  together. — They 
revisit  the  Minnetaree  Indians,  and  hold  a  Council  with  that  Nation, 
as  well  as  the  Mahahas. — Captain  Clarke  endeavours  to  persuade  their 
Chiefs  to  accompany  him  to  the  United  States,  which  they  decline  on 
account  of  their  Fears  of  the  Sioux  in  their  Passage  down  the  River. 
Colter,  one  of  the  Party,  requests  and  obtains  Liberty  to  remain 
among  the  Indians,  for  the  Purpose  of  hunting  Beaver. — Friendly 
Deportment  of  the  Mandans. — Council  held  by  Captain  Clarke  with 
the  Chiefs  of  the  different  Villages. — The  Chief  named  Big  White, 
with  his  Wife  and  Son,  agrees  to  accompany  the  Party  to  the  United 
States. — He  takes  an  affecting  Farewell  of  his  Nation. — Chaboneau, 
with  his  Wife,  declines  going  to  the  United  States,  and  they  are  left 
among  the  Indians. — The  Party  at  length  proceed  on  their  Route. — 
They  arrive  among  the  Ricaras. — Character  of  the  Chayennes,  their 
Dress,  Habits,  &c- — Captain  Clarke  offers  a  Medal  to  the  Chief  of 
this  Nation,  which  he  at  first  refuses,  believing  it  to  be  Medicine, 
but  which  he  is  afterward  prevailed  on  to  accept. — The  Ricaras  decline 
permitting  one  of  their  Number  to  accompany  Captain  Clarke  to  the 
United  States,  preferring  to  wait  the  Return  of  their  Chief  who  had 
already  gone. — The  Party  proceed  rapidly  down  the  River. — Prepare 
to  defend  themselves  against  the  Tetons. — Incredible  Number  of  Buf- 
falo seen  near  White  River. — They  meet  with  the  Tetons,  and  decline 
their  Invitations  to  Land. — Intrepidity  of  Captain  Clarke. 

"    A     UGUST  l2-     The  Party  continued  slowly  to 

ZA        descend  the  river.     One  of  the  skin  canoes 

L     V      had  by  accident  a  small  hole  made  in  it,  and 

they  halted  for  the  purpose  of  covering  it  with  a  piece 

of  elkskin,  and  also  to  wait  for  two  of  the  party  who 

were  behind.    While  there,  about  noon  they  were  over- 

159 


*eo     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

joyed  at  seeing  the  boats  of  the  other  party  heave  in 
sight ;  but  this  feeling  was  changed  into  alarm  on  per- 
ceiving them  reach  the  shore  without  Captain  Lewis, 
who  had  been  wounded,  they  were  informed,  the  day 
before,  and  was  then  lying  in  the  pirogue. 

"  After  giving  to  his  wound  all  the  attention  in 
our  power,"  proceeds  the  narrative,  "  we  remained  here 
for  some  time,  during  which  we  were  overtaken  by 
our  two  men,  accompanied  by  Dickson  and  Hancock, 
who  wished  to  go  with  us  as  far  as  the  Mandans.  The 
party  being  now  happily  reunited,  we  left  the  two  skin 
canoes,  and  at  about  three  o'clock  all  embarked  on 
board  the  boats.  The  wind  was,  however,  very  high 
from  the  southwest,  accompanied  with  rain,  so  that  we 
did  not  proceed  far  before  we  halted  for  the  night  on 
a  sand-bar.  Captain  Lewis's  wound  was  now  sore  and 
somewhat  painful.  The  next  day, 

"  August  13,  we  set  out  at  sunrise,  and  with  a  strong 
breeze  from  the  northwest  proceeded  on  rapidly.  At 
eight  o'clock  we  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Little  Mis- 
souri. Some  Indians  were  seen  at  a  distance  below 
in  a  skin  canoe,  and  were  probably  some  of  the  Minne- 
tarees  on  their  return  from  a  hunting  excursion,  as  we 
passed  one  of  their  camps  on  the  southwest  side,  where 
they  had  left  a  canoe.  Two  other  Indians  were  seen 
far  off  on  one  of  the  hills,  and  we  therefore  expected 
soon  to  meet  with  our  old  acquaintances  the  Mandans. 
At  sunset  we  arrived  at  the  entrance  of  Miry  River, 
and  encamped  on  the  northeast  side,  having  come  by 
the  aid  of  the  wind  and  our  oars  a  distance  of  eighty- 
six  miles.  The  air  was  cool,  and  the  moschetoes  now 
ceased  to  trouble  us  as  they  had  done. 

"  August  14.     We  again  set  out  at  sunrise,  and  at 


c 


CAPTAIN  CLARK  ADDRESSES  CHIEFS     iei 

length  approached  the  grand  village  of  the  Minneta- 
rees,  where  the  natives  had  collected  to  view  us  as  we 
passed.  We  fired  the  blunderbuss  several  times  by 
way  of  salute,  and  soon  after  landed  near  the  village 
of  the  Mahahas  or  Shoe  Indians,  and  were  received  by 
a  crowd  of  people,  who  came  to  welcome  us  on  our 
return.  Among  these  were  the  principal  chief  of  the 
Mahahas,  and  the  chief  of  the  Little  Minnetaree  vil- 
lage, both  of  whom  expressed  great  pleasure  at  seeing 
us  again ;  but  the  latter  wept  most  bitterly.  On  in- 
quiring the  cause,  it  appeared  that  his  tears  were  ex- 
cited by  the  sight  of  us  reminding  him  of  his  son,  who 
had  been  lately  killed  by  the  Blackfoot  Indians.  After 
*  remaining  there  a  few  minutes,  we  crossed  to  the  Man- 
dan  village  of  the  Black  Cat,  where  all  the  inhabitants 
seemed  very  much  gratified  at  seeing  us.  We  imme- 
diately sent  Chaboneau  with  an  invitation  for  the  Min- 
netarees  to  visit  us,  and  dispatched  Drewyer  to  the 
village  of  the  Mandans,  to  bring  Jesseaume  as  an  in- 
terpreter. Captain  Clarke,  in  the  mean  time,  walked 
up  to  the  village  of  Black  Cat,  and  smoked  and  ate 
with  that  chief.  This  village  had  been  rebuilt  since 
our  departure,  and  was  now  much  smaller;  a  quarrel 
having  arisen  among  its  inhabitants,  in  consequence  of 
which  a  number  of  families  had  removed  to  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  river. 

"  On  the  arrival  of  Jesseaume,  Captain  Clarke  ad- 
dressed the  chiefs.  He  spoke  to  them  now,  he  said, 
in  the  same  language  he  had  done  before ;  and  repeated 
his  invitation  to  them  to  accompany  him  to  the  United 
States,  to  hear  in  person  the  counsels  of  their  great 
father,  who  could  at  all  times  punish  his  enemies.  In 
reply  Black  Cat  declared  that  he  wished  to  visit  thf 


168     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

United  States,  and  to  see  his  great  father,  but  was 
afraid  of  the  Sioux,  who  had  killed  several  of  the  Man- 
dans  since  our  departure,  and  who  were  now  on  the 
river  below,  and  would  intercept  him  if  he  attempted 
to  pass.  Captain  Clarke  endeavoured  to  quiet  his  ap- 
prehensions by  assuring  him  that  he  would  not  suffer 
the  Sioux  to  injure  any  one  of  our  red  children  who 
should  accompany  us,  and  that  they  should  return 
loaded  with  presents,  and  protected  at  the  expense  of 
the  LTnited  States.  The  council  was  then  broken  up; 
after  which  we  crossed  and  formed  our  camp  on  the 
other  side  of  the  river,  where  we  should  be  sheltered 
from  the  rain.  Soon  after,  the  chief  of  the  Mahahas 
informed  us,  that  if  we  would  send  to  his  village  we 
should  have  some  corn.  Three  men  were  therefore 
despatched,  and  returned  soon  after  loaded  with  as 
much  as  they  could  carry.  They  were  soon  followed  j 
by  the  chief  and  his  wife,  to  whom  we  presented  a 
few  needles  and  other  articles  suitable  for  a  woman. 

"  In  a  short  time  Borgne,  the  great  chief  of  all  the 
Minnetarees,  came  down,  attended  by  several  other 
chiefs,  to  whom,  after  smoking  a  pipe,  Captain  Clarke 
made  a  speech,  renewing  his  assurance  of  friendship, 
and  the  invitation  to  accompany  us  to  Washington. 
In  reply,  Borgne  began  by  declaring  that  he  much  de- 
sired to  visit  his  great  father,  but  that  the  Sioux  would 
certamly  kill  any  of  the  Mandans  who  should  attempt 
to  go  down  the  river :  they  were  bad  people,  and  would 
not  listen  to  any  advice.  When  he  saw  us  last,  we  had 
told  him  that  we  would  make  peace  with  all  the  nations 
below,  yet  the  Sioux  had  since  killed  eight  of  his  tribe, 
and  stolen  a  number  of  their  horses.  The  Ricaras,  too, 
had  stolen  their  horses,  and  in  the  contest  his  people 


COUNCIL  WITH  BLACK  CAT  163 

had  killed  two  of  them.  Yet,  in  spite  of  these  things, 
he  had  always  his  ears  open  to  our  counsels,  and  had 
actually  made  a  peace  with  the  Chayennes  and  the  In- 
dians of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  He  concluded  by  say- 
ing that,  however  much  disposed  they  might  be  to  visit 
the  United  States,  the  fear  of  the  Sioux  would  prevent 
them  from  going  with  us.  The  council  was  then  con- 
cluded, and  soon  afterward  an  invitation  to  visit  him 
was  received  from  Black  Cat,  who,  on  Captain  Clarke's 
arrival  at  his  village,  presented  him  with  a  dozen  bush- 
els of  corn,  which  he  said  was  a  large  proportion  of 
what  his  people  possessed ;  and,  after  smoking  a  pipe, 
declared  that  his  tribe  were  too  apprehensive  of  the 
Sioux  for  any  of  them  to  venture  with  us.  Captain 
Clarke  then  spoke  to  the  chiefs  and  warriors  of  the 
village :  he  told  them  of  his  anxiety  that  some  of  them 
should  see  their  great  father,  and  hear  his  good  words, 
and  receive  his  gifts,  and  requested  them  to  fix  on 
some  confidential  chief  who  might  accompany  us.  To 
this  they  made  the  same  objections  as  before,  till  at 
length  a  young  man  offered  to  go,  and  the  warriors  all 
assented  to  it.  But  the  character  of  this  man  was 
known  to  be  bad,  and  one  of  the  party  with  Captain 
Clarke  informed  him  that  at  that  moment  he  had  in 
his  possession  a  knife  whichvhe  had  stolen.  Captain 
Clarke  thereupon  told  the  chief  of  the  theft,  and  de- 
manded the  knife  to  be  given  up.  This  was  done,  with 
but  a  poor  apology  for  having  it  in  his  possession ; 
and  Captain  Clarke  then  reproached  the  chiefs  for 
wishing  to  send  such  a  fellow  to  see  and  hear  so  dis- 
tinguished a  person  as  their  great  father.  They  all 
hung  down  their  heads  for  some  time,  till  Black  Cat 
at  length  apologized  by  saying  that  the  danger  was 


*64     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

such  that  they  were  afraid  to  send  any  one  of  their 
chiefs,  as  they  should  consider  his  loss  almost  inevit- 
able. Captain  Clarke  remained  some  time  with  them, 
smoking,  and  relating  various  particulars  of  -his  jour- 
ney ;  and  then  left  them  to  visit  the  second  chief  of 
the  Mandans,  or  Black  Crow,  who  had  expressed  some 
disposition  to  accompany  us.  He  seemed  well  inclined 
to  the  journey,  but  was  unwilling  to  decide  till  he  had 
called  a  council  of  his  people,  which  he  intended  to  do 
in  the  afternoon.  On  returning  to  the  camp,  Captain 
Clarke  found  the  chief  of  the  Mahahas,  and  also  the 
chief  of  the  Little  Minnetaree  village,  who  had  brought 
a  present  of  corn  on  their  mules,  of  which  they  have 
several,  and  which  they  procure  from  the  Crow  In- 
dians, who  either  buy  or  steal  them  on  the  frontiers 
of  the  Spanish  settlements.  A  great  number  of  the 
Indians  visited  us,  either  for  the  purpose  of  renewing 
their  acquaintance,  or  of  exchanging  robes  and  other 
articles  for  the  skins  brought  by  the  party. 

"  In  the  evening  Colter  applied  to  us  for  permis- 
sion to  join  the  two  trappers  who  had  accompanied 
us,  and  who  now  proposed  an  expedition  up  the  river, 
in  which  they  were  to  find  traps  and  to  give  him  a 
share  of  the  profits.  The  offer  was  a  very  advanta- 
geous one;  and  as  he  ha*d  always  performed  his  duty, 
and  his  services  could  be  dispensed  with,  we  consented 
to  his  going  upon  condition  that  none  of  the  rest 
were  to  ask  or  expect  a  similar  indulgence.  To  this 
they  all  cheerfully  assented,  saying  that  they  wished 
Colter  every  success,  and  would  not  apply  for  liberty 
to  separate  before  we  reached  St.  Louis.  We  there- 
fore supplied  him,  as  did  his  comrades  also,  with  pow- 
der and  lead,  and  a  variety  of  articles  which  might  be 


GENEROSITY  OF  THE  MANDANS          165 

useful  to  him,  and  he  left  us  the  next  day.  The  ex- 
ample of  this  man  shows  how  easily  men  may  be 
weaned  from  the  habits  of  civilized  life  to  the  ruder, 
though  scarcely  less  fascinating,  manners  of  the  woods. 
This  hunter  had  now  been  absent  for  many  years  from 
the  frontiers,  and  might  naturally  be  presumed  to  have 
some  anxiety,  or  at  least  curiosity,  to  return  to  his 
friends  and  his  country ;  yet,  just  at  the  moment  when 
he  was  approaching  the  frontiers,  he  was  tempted  by 
a  hunting  scheme  to  give  up  all  those  delightful  pros- 
pects, and  to  go  back  without  the  least  reluctance  to 
the  solitude  of  the  wilds. 

"  In  the  evening,  Chaboneau,  who  had  been  ming- 
ling with  the  Indians,  and  learned  what  had  taken 
place  during  our  absence,  informed  us  that,  as  soon 
as  we  had  left  the  Minnetarees,  they  sent  out  a  war 
party  against  the  Shoshonees,  whom  they  had  at- 
tacked and  routed,  though  in  the  engagement  they 
lost  two  men,  one  of  whom  was  the  son  of  the  chief 
of  the  Little  Minnetaree  village.  Another  war  party 
also  went  against  the  Ricaras,  two  of  whom  they  had 
killed.  A  misunderstanding  had  likewise  taken  place 
between  the  Mandans  and  Minnetarees,  in  conse- 
quence of  a  dispute  about  a  woman,  which  had  nearly 
occasioned  a  war;  but  at  length  a  pipe  was  presented 
by  the  Minnetarees,  and  a  reconciliation  took  place. 

"  August  16.  The  Mandans  had  offered  to  give  us 
some  corn,  and  on  sending  this  morning  we  found  a 
greater  quantity  collected  for  our  use  than  all  our 
canoes  would  contain.  We  therefore  thanked  the 
chief,  and  took  only  six  loads.  At  ten  o'clock  the 
chiefs  of  the  different  villages  came  down  to  smoke 
with  us,  and  we  embraced  this  opportunity  to  endeav- 


166     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

our  to  engage  Borgne  in  our  interest  by  the  present  of 
our  swivel,  which  was  no  longer  of  any  use,  as  it, 
could  not  be  discharged  from  our  largest  pirogue. 
It  was  now  loaded,  and  the  chiefs  having  been  formed! 
in  a  circle  round  it,  Captain  Clarke  addressed  them 
with  great  ceremony.  He  said  that  he  had  listened 
with  much  attention  to  what  had  yesterday  been  de- 
clared by  Borgne,  whom  he  believed  to  be  sincere,' 
and  then  reproached  them  with  their  disregard  of  our 
counsels,  and  their  wars  with  the  Shoshonees  and 
Ricaras.  Little  Cherry,  the  old  Minnetaree  chief, 
answered  that  they  had  long  stayed  at  home  and  lis- 
tened to  our  advice,  but  that  at  last  they  went  to  war 
against  the  Sioux  because  they  had  stolen  their  horses 
and  killed  their  companions ;  and  that,  in  an  expedition 
against  that  people,  they  had  met  the  Ricaras,  who 
were  on  their  way  to  strike  them,  when  a  battle  en- 
sued. But  in  future,  he  said,  they  would  attend  to 
our  words  and  live  in  peace.  Borgne,  too,  added,  that 
.his  ears  would  always  be  open  to  the  words  of  his 
good  father,  and  shut  against  bad  counsel.  Captain 
Clarke  then  presented  to  him  the  swivel,  which  he  told 
him  had  announced  the  words  of  his  great  father  to  all 
the  nations  we  had  seen ;  and  which,  whenever  it  was 
fired,  should  recall  those  which  we  had  now  delivered. 
The  gun  was  trren  discharged,  and  Borgne  had  it  con- 
veyed in  great  pomp  to  his  village,  when  the  council 
was  adjourned. 

"  In  the  afternoon  Captain  Clarke  walked  up  to 
the  village  of  Little  Crow,  taking  a  flag  which  he  in- 
tended to  present  to  him,  but  was  surprised  on  being 
told  by  him  that  he  had  given  up  all  intention  of  ac- 
companying us,  refusing  at  the  same  time  the  flag. 


CHABONEAU  AND  WIFE  REMAIN        167 

He  found  that  this  change  was  occasioned  by  a  jeal- 
ousy between  him  and  the  principal  chief,  Big  White : 
by  the  interference  of  Jessseaume,  however,  the  two 
chiefs  were  reconciled,  and  it  was  agreed  that  Big 
White  himself  should  accompany  us,  with  his  wife 
and  son. 

"  August  17.  The  principal  chiefs  of  the  Minne- 
tarees  now  came  down  to  bid  us  farewell,  as  none 
of  them  could  be.  prevailed  on  to  go  with  us.  This 
circumstance  induced  our  interpreter,  Chaboneau,  to 
remain  here  with  his  wife  and  child,  as  he  could  no 
longer  be  of  use  to  us,  and,  although  we  offered  to 
take  him  with  us  to  the  United  States,  he  declined, 
saying  that  there  he  had  no  acquaintance,  and  no 
chance  of  making  a  livelihood,  and  preferred  remain- 
ing among  the  Indians.  This  man  had  been  very 
serviceable  to  us,  and  his  wife  was  particularly  use- 
ful among  the  Shoshonees :  indeed,  she  had  borne 
with  a  patience  truly  admirable  the  fatigues  of  so  long 
a  route,  encumbered  with  the  charge  of  an  infant, 
who  was  then  only  nineteen  months  old.  We  there- 
fore paid  him  his  wages,  amounting  to  five  hundred 
dollars  and  thirty-three  cents,  including  the  price  of 
a  horse  and  a  lodge  purchased  of  him,  and  soon  after- 
ward dropped  down  to  the  village  of  Big  White,  at- 
tended on  shore  by  all  the  Indian  chiefs,  who  had  come 
to  take  leave  of  him.  We  found  him  surrounded  by 
his  friends,  who  sat  in  z  circle  smoking,  while  the 
women  were  crying.  He  immediately  sent  his  wife 
and  son,  with  their  baggage,  on  board,  accompanied 
by  the  interpreter  and  his  wife,  and  two  children ;  and 
then,  after  distributing  among  his  friends  some  powder 
and  ball  which  we  had  given  him,  and  smoking  a 

M.  of  H. -XXIX— 23 


168     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

pipe,  he  went  with  us  to  the  river  side.  The  whole 
village  crowded  about  us,  and  many  of  the  people  wept 
aloud  at  the  departure  of  their  chief. 

"  As  Captain  Clarke  was  shaking  hands  with  the 
principal  chiefs  of  the  different  villages,  they  requested 
that  he  would  sit  with  them  a  moment  longer.  Being 
willing  to  gratify  them,  he  stopped  and  ordered  a 
pipe,  when,  after  smoking  it,  they  informed  him  that 
they  had  not  believed  all  that  we  told  them  at  the 
time  they  first  saw  us ;  but  having  now  found  that 
our  words  were  all  true,  they  would  carefully  remem- 
ber them,  and  follow  our  advice;  and  that  he  might 
tell  their  great  father  that  the  young  men  should  re- 
main at  home,  and  not  make  war  on  any  people  except 
in  their  bwn  defence.  They  requested  him  to  tell  the 
Ricaras  to  come  and  visit  them,  which  they  might  do 
without  fear,  as  they  meant  that  nation  no  harm,  but, 
on  the  contrary,  were  desirous  of  peace  with  them. 
On  the  Sioux,  however,  they  could  place,  they  said, 
no  dependence,  and  must  kill  them  whenever  they 
sent  war  parties  against  their  country.  Captain  Clarke 
replied  that  we  had  never  insisted  on  their  not  defend- 
ing themselves,  but  only  requested  that  they  would 
not  strike  those  whom  we  had  taken  by  the  hand ;  that 
we  would  apprize  the  Ricaras  of  their  friendly  inten-^ 
tions;  and  that,  although  we  had  not  seen  the  Sroux 
with  whom  they  were  at  war,  we  should  relate  their 
conduct  to  their  great  father,  T,/ho  would  take  meas- 
ures for  effecting  a  general  peace  among  all  his  red 
children. 

"  Borgne  now  requested  that  we  would  take  good 
care  of  the  chief,  who  would  report  whatever  their 
great  father  should  say;  and  the  council  then  break- 


BIG  WHITE'S  BROTHER  169 

ing  up,  we  took  leave  with  a  salute  from  a  gun,  and 
proceeded.  On  reaching  Fort  Mandan  we  found  a 
few  pickets  standing  on  the  river  side,  but  all  the 
houses  except  one  had  been  accidently  burned.  At 
the  distance  of  eighteen  miles  we  reached  the  old 
Ricara  village  and  encamped  on  the  southwest  side, 
the  wind  being  too  violent,  and  the  waves  too  high,  to 
permit  our  going  any  farther. 

"  August  18.  The  same  cause  prevented  us  from 
setting  out  before  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning.  Soon 
after  we  had  embarked,  an  Indian  came  running  down 
to  the  beach,  and  appeared  very  anxious  to  speak  to 
us.  We  therefore  went  ashore,  and  found  it  was  the 
brother  of  Big  White,  who  was  encamped  at  no  great 
distance,  and  hearing  of  our  departure,  had  come  to 
take  leave  of  the  chief.  Big  White  gave  his  brother 
a  pair  of  leggins,  and  they  separated  in  the  most  affec- 
tionate manner :  we  then  continued  our  voyage,  though 
the  wind  and  waves  were  still  high.  The  Indian  chief 
seemed  quite  satisfied  with  his  treatment,  and  during 
the  day  employed  himself  in  pointing  out  the  ancient 
monuments  of  the  Mandans,  or  in  relating  their  tradi- 
tions. At  length,  after  making  forty  miles,  we  en- 
camped on  the  northeast  side,  opposite  to  an  old 
Mandan  village,  and  below  the  mouth  of  Chesshetah 
River. 

"  August  19.  The  wind  was  so  violent  that  we 
were  not  able  to  proceed  until  four  in  the  afternoon, 
and  in  the  mean  time  the  hunters  had  killed  four  elk 
and  twelve  deer.  We  then  went  on  for  ten  miles,  and 
came  to  a  sand-bar.  The  wind  and  rain  continued 
through  the  night,  and  during  the  whole  of  the  next 
day, 


170     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

"  August  20,  the  waves  were  so  high  that  one  man 
was  constantly  occupied  in  bailing  the  boats.  At 
noon  we  passed  Cannonba!1  KiVer,  and  at  three  in 
the  afternoon  the  mouth  of  Wardepon  River,  which 
bounds  the  country  claimed  by  the  Sioux;  and  after 
proceeding  eighty-one  miles,  landed  for  the  night  on 
a  sand-bar.  The  plains  were  beginning  to  change  their 
appearance,  the  grass  assuming  a  yellowish  colour. 
We  this  day  saw  great  numbers  of  wolves,  and  some 
buffalo  and  elk,  though  these  were  by  no  means  as 
abundant  as  on  the  Yellowstone. 

"Since  we  passed  in  1804,  a  very  obvious  change 
had  taken  place  in  the  course  and  appearance  of  the 
Missouri.  In  places  where,  at  that  time,  there  were 
sand-bars,  the  current  of  the  river  now  passed,  and 
where  the  channel  was  then,  there  were,  in  turn,  banks 
of  sand.  Sand-bars,  then  naked,  were  now  covered 
with  willows  several  feet  high ;  the  entrances  of  some 
of  the  creeks  and  rivers  had  been  changed  by  the 
quantity  of  mud  thrown  into  them;  and  in  some  of 
the  bottoms  there  were  layers  of  mud  eight  inches 
in  depth. 

"  August  21.  We  rose  after  a  night  of  broken  rest, 
having  been  much  annoyed  by  moschetoes,  and  after 
putting  our  arms  in  order,  to  be  prepared  for  any 
attack,  continued  our  course.  We  soon  met  three 
traders,  two  of  whom  had  wintered  with  us  among 
the  Mandans  in  1804,  and  who  were  now  on  their 
way  thither.  They  were  out  of  powder  and  lead,  and 
we  supplied  them  with  both.  They  informed  us  that 
seven  hundred  Sioux  had  passed  the  Ricara  towns  on 
their  way  to  attack  the  Mandans  and  Minnetarees, 
leaving  their  women  and  children  encamped  near  the 


INTERVIEW  WITH  THE  RICARAS         171 

Big  Bend  of  the  Missouri;  but  that  the  Ricaras  had 
all  remained  at  home,  declining  to  take  any  part  in 
the  war.  They  also  told  us  that  the  Pawnee  or  Ricara 
chief  who  had  gone  to  the  United  States  the  spring 
before,  died  on  his  return  near  the  Sioux  River. 

"  We  then  left  them,  and  soon  afterward  arrived 
opposite  to  the  upper  Ricara  villages.  We  saluted 
them  with  the  discharge  of  four  guns,  which  they 
answered  in  the  same  manner;  and  on  our  landing  we 
were  met  by  the  greater  part  of  the  inhabitants  of 
each  village,  and  also  by  a  band  of  the  Chayennes, 
who  were  encamped  on  a  hill  in  the  neighbourhood. 

"  As  soon  as  Captain  Clarke  stepped  on  shore,  he 
was  greeted  by  the  two  chiefs  to  whom  he  had  given 
medals  in  our  former  visit;  and  as  they  and  the  rest 
appeared  much  rejoiced  at  our  return,  and  desirous 
of  hearing  from  the  Mandans,  he  sat  down  on  the 
bank,  while  the  Ricaras  and  Chayennes  formed  a  circle 
round  him;  and,  after  smoking,  he  informed  them, 
as  he  had  already  done  the  Minnetarees,  of  the  various 
tribes  we  had  visited,  and  of  our  anxiety  to  promote 
peace  among  our  red  brethren.  He  then  expressed 
his  regret  at  their  having  attacked  the  Mandans, 
who  had  listened  to  our  counsels,  and  had  sent  on  a 
chief  to  smoke  with. them,  and  to  assure  them  that 
they  might  now  hunt  in  the  plains,  and  visit  the 
Mandan  village  in  safety,  and  he  concluded  by  invit- 
ing some  of  the  chiefs  to  accompany  us  to  Washington. 
The  man  whom  we  had  acknowledged  as  the  princi- 
pal chief  when  we  ascended  the  river,  now  presented 
another,  who,  he  said,  was  a  greater  chief  than  him- 
self; and  to  him,  therefore  he  had  surrendered  the  flag 
and  medal  with  which  we  had  honoured  him.  This 


172     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

chief,  who  had  been  absent  at  our  former  visit,  was  a 
man  of  thirty-five  years  of  age,  stout  and  good-looking, 
and  called  by  the  Indians  Grey  Eyes. 

"He  now  made  a  very  animated  reply.  He  de- 
clared that  the  Ricaras  were  willing  to  follow  the 
counsels  we  had  given  them ;  but  that  a  few  of  their 
bad  young  men  would  not  live  in  peace,  but  had 
joined  the  Sioux,  and  thus  embroiled  them  with  the 
Mandans.  These  young  men,  had,  however,  been 
driven  out  of  the  villages ;  and  as  the  Ricaras  were 
now  separated  from  the  Sioux,  who  were  a  bad  people, 
and  the  cause  of  all  their  misfortunes,  they  desired  to 
be  at  peace  with  the  Mandans,  and  would  receive  them 
with  kindness  and  friendship.  Several  of  the  chiefs, 
he  said,  were  desirous  of  visiting  their  great  father; 
but  as  the  chief  who  had  gone  to  the  United  States  the 
last  summer  had  not  returned,  and  they  had  some  fears 
for  his  safety  on  account  of  the  Sioux,  they  did  not 
wish  to  leave  home  until  they  had  heard  from  him. 
As  to  himself,  he  should  continue  with  his  nation,  to 
see  that  they  followed  our  advice. 

"  The  sun  being  very  hot,  the  chief  of  the  Chay- 
ennes  invited  us  to  his  lodge,  which  was  at  no  great 
distance  from  the  river.  We  followed  him,  and  found 
a  very  large  lodge,  made  of  twenty  buffalo  skins, 
surrounded  by  eighteen  or  twenty  others  of  nearly 
equal  size.  The  rest  of  the  nation  were  expected  the 
next  day,  and  would  make  the  number  of  from  one 
hundred  and  thirty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  lodges, 
containing  from  three  hundred  and  fifty  to  four  hun- 
dred men,  at  which  the  men  of  the  nation  might  be 
computed.  These  Chayennes  are  a  fine  looking  people, 
of  large  stature,  with  straight  limbs,  and  high  cheek- 


MANNERS  AND  DRESS  OF  RICARAS       173 

bones  and  noses,  and  of  a  complexion  similar  to  that 
of  the  Ricaras.  Their  ears  are  cut  at  the  lower  part, 
but  few  wear  ornaments  in  them.  Their  hair  is  gener- 
ally cut  over  the  eyebrows,  and  small  ornaments  hang 
from  it  down  the  cheeks,  the  remainder  being  either 
twisted  with  horse  or  buffalo  hair,  and  divided  over 
each  shoulder,  or  else  flowing  loosely  behind.  Their 
decorations  consist  chiefly  of  blue  beads,  shells,  red 
paint,  brass  rings,  bears'  claws,  and  strips  of  otter 
skins,  of  which  last  they,  as  well  as  the  Ricaras,  are 
very  fond.  The  women,  however,  are  coarse  in  their 
features,  with  wide  mouths,  and  ugly.  Their  dress 
consists  of  a  habit  reaching  to  the  mid-leg,  made  of 
two  equal  pieces  of  leather,  sewed  from  the  bottom, 
with  armholes,  and  with  a  flap  hanging  nearly  half 
way  down  the  body  both  before  and  behind.  On  these 
are  burned  various  figures  by  means  of  an  ignited 
stick,  and  they  are  adorned  with  beads,  shells,  and 
elk's  tusks,  which  all  the  Indians  greatly  prize.  The 
other  ornaments  are  blue  beads  in  the  ears,  but  the 
hair  is  left  plain,  and  flows  down  the  back.  The  sum- 
mer dress  of  the  men  is  a  simple  buffalo  robe,  a  cloth 
round  the  waist,  moccasins,  and  occasionally  leggins. 
Living  remote  from  the  whites,  they  are  shy  and  cau- 
tious, but  are  peaceably  disposed,  and  profess  to  make 
war  against  no  people  except  the  Sioux,  with  whom 
they  have  been  engaged  in  contests  from  time  im- 
memorial. In  their  excursions  they  are  accompanied 
by  their  dogs  and  horses,  of  which  they  have  a  great 
number;  the  former  serving  to  carry  almost  all  their 
light  baggage. 

"  After   smoking   for   some   time,    Captain    Clarke 
gave  a  small  medal  to  the  Chayenne  chief,  explain- 


174     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

ing  at  the  same  time  the  meaning  of  it.  He  seemed 
alarmed  at  the  present,  and  sending  for  a  robe  and  a 
quantity  of  buffalo  meat,  he  gave  them  to  Captain 
Clarke,  requesting  him  to  take  back  the  medal,  as  he 
knew  that  all  white  people  were  medicine,  and  he  was 
afraid  of  everything  which  they  might  give  to  the 
Indians.  Captain  Clarke  again  explained  his  object 
in  giving  the  medal,  which,  he  said,  was  the  medi- 
cine his  great  father  had  directed  him  to  deliver  to 
all  their  chiefs  who  should  listen  to  his  word  and 
follow  his  counsels;  and  that,  as  he  had  done  so,  it 
had  been  given  him  as  a  proof  that  we  believe  him 
sincere.  He  now  appeared  satisfied,  and  receiving 
the  medal,  gave  in  return  double  the  quantity  of 
buffalo  meat  he  had  offered  before.  He  seemed  now 
quite  reconciled  to  the  whites,  and  requested  iliat 
some  traders  might  be  sent  among  his  people,  who 
lived,  he  said,  in  a  country  full  of  beaver,  but  did  not 
understand  the  best  modes  of  catching  them,  and, 
farthermore,  were  deterred  from  it  by  having  no  market 
for  them  when  caught.  Captain  Clarke  promised  that 
they  should  soon  be  supplied  with  goods,  and  taught 
the  best  mode  of  catching  beaver. 

"  Big  White,  chief  of  the  Mandans,  now  addressed 
them  at  some  length,  explaining  ,ihe  pacific  intentions 
of  his  nation ;  and  the  Chayenne  observed  that  both 
the  Ricaras  and  Mandans  seemed  to  be  in  fault;  but 
at  the  end  of  the  council  the  Mandan  chief  was  treated 
with  much  civility,  and  the  greatest  harmony  prevailed 
between  them.  The  great  chief  informed  us,  however, 
that  none  of  the  Ricaras  could  be  prevailed  on  to  ac- 
company us  till  the  return  of  the  other  chief ;  and  that 
the  Chayennes  were  a  wild  people,  arid  afraid  to  go. 


RECONCILIATION  BETWEEN  CHIEFS     175 

He  invited  Captain  Clarke  to  his  house,  and  gave  him 
two  carrots  of  tobacco,  two  beaver  skins,  and  a 
trencher  of  boiled  corn  and  beans.  It  is  the  custom 
of  the  nations  on  the  Missouri  to  offer  to  all  white  men 
food  and  refreshments  when  they  first  enter  their 
tents. 

"  Captain  Clarke  now  returned  to  the  boats,  where 
he  found  the  chief  of  the  lower  village,  who  had  cut 
off  part  of  his  hair  and  disfigured  himself  in  such  a 
manner  that  we  did  not  recognize  him  until  he  ex- 
plained that  he  was  in  mourning  for  his  nephew, 
who  had  been  killed  by  the  Sioux.  He  proceeded 
with  us  to  the  village  on  the  island,  where  we  were 
met  by  all  the  inhabitants.  The  second  chief,  on 
seeing  the  Mandan,  began  to  speak  to  him  in  a  loud 
and  threatening  tone,  till  Captain  Clarke  declared 
that  the  Mandans  had  listened  to  our  councils,  and 
that,  if  any  injury  was  attempted  to  be  done  to  the 
chief,  we  should  defend  him  to  the  utmost  extrem- 
ity. He  then  invited  the  chief  to  his  lodge,  and 
after  a  very  ceremonious  smoking,"  assured  Captain 
Clarke  that  he  was  as  safe  as  at  his  home,  for  the 
Ricaras,  as  well  as  the  Mandans,  had  opened  their 
ears  to  our  councils.  This  was  repeated  by  the  great 
chief;  and  the  Mandan  and  Ricara  chiefs  now  smoked 
and  conversed  with  great  apparent  harmony,  after 
which  we  returned  to  our  boats.  The  whole  distance 
made  this  day  was  twenty-nine  miles. 

"  August  22.  It  rained  the  whole  night,  so  that 
we  all  rose  in  the  morning  quite  wet,  and  were  about 
proceeding,  when  Captain  Clarke  received  from  the 
chiefs  a  request  to  visit  them.  They  made  to  him  sev- 
eral, speeches,  in  which  they  observed  that  they  must 


176     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

decline  going  with  us,  as  their  countryman  had  not 
yet  returned ;  and  that,  although  all  their  troubles 
came  from  the  Sioux,  yet,  as  they  had  more  horses 
than  they  wanted,  and  were  in  want  of  guns  and 
powder,  they  should  be  obliged  to  trade  with  them  once 
more  for  those  articles,  after  which  they  would  break 
off  all  connection  with  them.  He  then  returned  to  the 
boats,  and  after  taking  leave  of  the  natives,  who  seemed 
to  regret  our  departure,  and  firing  a  salute  of  two 
guns,  we  proceeded  on  our  way.  We  made  only  seven- 
teen miles  this  day,  being  obliged  to  land  near  Wetar- 
boo  River  to  dry  our  baggage;  besides  which,  the 
sand-bars  were  very  numerous,  as  the  river  became 
wider  below  the  Ricara  villages.  Captain  Lewis  was 
now  so  far  recovered  that  he  was  able  to  walk  a  little 
for  the  first  time.  While  here  we  noticed  that  the 
Mandans,  as  well  as  the  Minn etarees  and  Ricaras, 
keep  their  horses  in  the  same  lodges  with  themselves." 

During  the  two  following  days  they  made  a  dis- 
tance of  eighty-three  miles,  and  in  the  morning  of 
the  24th  encamped  at  the  gorge  of  the  Lookout  Bend. 

"  August  25.  Before  daylight,"  continues  the  Jour- 
nal, "  we  sent  five  of  the  men  ahead  to  hunt  on 
Pawnee  Island,  and  followed  them  soon  after.  At 
eight  o'clock  we  reached  the  entrance  of  the  Chay- 
enne,  where  we  remained  till  noon  to  take  a  merid- 
ian observation.  At  three  o'clock  we  passed  the  old 
Pawnee  village,  near  which  we  had  met  the  Tetons 
in  1804,  and  encamped  in  a  large  bottom  on  the  north- 
east side,  a  little  below  the  mouth  of  Notimber  Creek. 
Just  above  our  camp  the  Ricaras  had  formerly  a  large 
village  on  each  side  of  the  river,  and  there  were  still  to 
be  seen  the  remains  of  five  villages  on  the  southwest 


IMMENSE  NUMBERS  OF  BUFFALO        177 

side  below  the  Chayenne,  and  one  on  Lahoocat's  Is- 
land, all  of  which  had  been  destroyed  by  the  Sioux. 
The  weather  was  clear  and  calm,  but  by  the  help  of 
our  oars  we  made  forty-eight  miles."  *  *  * 

"  August  26.  We  set  out  early,  and  at  nine  o'clock 
reached  the  entrance  of  Teton  River,  below  which 
were  a  raft  and  a  skin  canoe,  which  made  us  sus- 
pect that  the  Tetons  were  in  the  neighbourhood.  Our 
arms,  therefore,  were  put  in  order,  and  every  prepara- 
tion was  made  to  revenge  the  slightest  insult  from 
those  people,  who  required,  we  knew,  to  be  treated 
with  rigour.  We  went  on,  however,  without  seeing 
any  of  them,  though  we  were  obliged  to  land  near 
Smoke  Creek,  and  remained  there  for  two  hours  to 
stop  a  leak  in  the  pirogue.  Here  we  saw  great  quan- 
tities of  plums  and  grapes,  but  they  were  not  yet  ripe. 
At  five  o'clock  we  passed  Louisville's  Fort,  on  Cedar 
Island,  twelve  miles  below  which  we  encamped,  having 
made  sixty  miles  by  using  our  oars,  with  the  wind 
ajiead  during  the  greater  part  of  the  day." 

Setting  out  before  sunrise  the  next  morning,  at  the 
distance  of  a  few  miles  they  landed  on  a  sand-bar  near 
Taylor's  River.  "  Near  this  place,"  says  the  Journal, 
"  we  observed  the  first  signs  of  the  wild  turkey,  and  not 
long  after  landed  in  the  Big  Bend,  and  killed  a  fine  fat 
elk.  Towards  night  we  heard  the  bellowing  of  the  buf- 
falo bulls  on  the  lower  island  of  the  Big  Bend ;  and 
following  the  direction  of  this  agreeable  sound,  we 
killed  some  of  the  cows,  and  encamped  on  the  island, 
forty-five  miles  from  our  camp  of  the  previous  night. 

"  August  28.  We  started  at  an  early  hour,  having 
first  despatched  some  hunters  ahead,  with  orders  to 
join  us  at  our  old  camp  a  little  above  Corvus  Creek, 


178     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

where  we  intended  to  remain  one  day,  for  the  purpose 
of  procuring  the  skins  and  skeletons  of  some  animals, 
such  as  the  mule-deer,  the  antelope,  the  barking  squir- 
rel, the  magpie,  &c.,  which  we  were  desirous  of  taking 
with  us.  After  rowing  thirty-five  miles,  we  landed  at 
twelve  o'clock,  and  formed  our  camp  in  a  high  bottom, 
thinly  timbered,  and  covered  with  grass.  Soon  after 
our  arrival  the  squaws  and  several  of  the  men  went  to 
the  bushes  near  the  river,  and  brought  a  great  quantity 
of  large,  well-flavoured  plums,  of  three  different 
species. 

"  The  hunters  returned  in  the  afternoon  without 
having  been  able  to  procure  any  of  the  game  we  wished 
except  the  barking  squirrel,  though  they  killed  four 
common  deer,  and  had  seen  large  herds  of  buffalo,  of 
which  they  brought  in  two." 

Setting  out  at  ten  o'clock  next  morning,  at  a  short 
distance  they  passed  the  mouth  of  White  River,  the 
water  of  which  was  nearly  of  the  colour  of  milk.  As 
they  were  much  occupied  with  hunting,  they  made  but 
twenty  miles.  "  The  buffalo,"  says  the  Journal,  "  were 
now  so  numerous,  that  from  an  eminence  we  discovered 
more  than  we  had  ever  seen  before  at  one  time;  and 
though  it  was  impossible  accurately  to  calculate  their 
number,  they  darkened  the  whole  plain,  and  could  not 
have  been,  we  were  convinced,  less  than  twenty  thou- 
sand. With  regard  to  game  in  general,  we  have  ob- 
served that  wild  animals  are  usually  found  in  the  great- 
est numbers  in  the  country  lying  between  two  nations 
at  war. 

"August  30.  We  set  out  at  the  usual  time,  but 
after  going  some  distance  were  obliged  to  stop  two 
hours  for  one  of  our  hunters.  During  this  time  we 


HOSTILITY  OF  THE  TETONS  179 

made  an  excursion  to  a  large  orchard  of  delicious 
plums,  where  we  were  so  fortunate  as  to  kill  two  buck 
elks.  We  then  proceeded  down  the  river,  and  were 
about  landing  at  the  place  where  we  had  agreed  to 
meet  all  the  hunters,  when  several  persons  appeared 
on  the  high  hills  to  the  northeast,  and  by  the  help  of 
our  spyglass  we  distinguished  them  to  be  Indians.  We 
landed  on  the  southwest  side  of  the  river,  and  immedi- 
ately after  saw  on  a  height  opposite  to  us  about  twenty 
men,  one  of  whom,  from  his  blanket  greatcoat  and  a 
handkerchief  round  his  head,  we  took  for  a  Frenchman. 
At  the  same  time,  about  eighty  or  ninety  Indians,  armed 
with  guns  and  bows  and  arrows,  came  out  of  a  wood 
some  distance  below  them,  and  fired  a  salute,  which 
we  returned.  From  their  hostile  appearance  we  were 
apprehensive  that  they  might  be  Tetons ;  but  as,  from 
the  country  through  which  they  were  passing,  it  was 
possible  they  might  be  Yanktons,  Pawnees,  or  Mahas, 
we  did  not  know  in  what  way  to  receive  them.  In 
order,  however,  to  ascertain  who  they  were  without 
risk  to  the  party,  Captain  Clarke  crossed,  with  three 
persons  who  could  speak  different  Indian  languages, 
to  a  sand-bar  near  the  opposite  side,  for  the  purpose  of 
conversing  with  them.  Eight  young  men  soon  met 
him  on  the  sand-bar,  but  none  of  them  could  under- 
stand either  the  Pawnee  or  Maha  interpreter.  They 
were  then  addressed  in  the  Sioux  language,  and  an- 
swered that  they  were  Tetons,  of  the  band  headed  by 
the  Black  Buffalo,  Tahtackasabah.  It  was  the  same 
band  which  had  attempted  to  stop  us  in  1804 ;  and  be- 
ing now  less  anxious  about  offending  this  mischievous 
tribe,  Captain  Clarke  told  them  that  they  had  been 
deaf  to  our  counsels,  had  ill  treated  us  two  years  ago, 


180     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

and  had  abused  all  the  whites  who  had  since  visited 
them.  He  believed  them,  he  added,  to  be  bad  people, 
and  they  must  return,  therefore,  to  their  compan- 
ions, for  if  they  crossed  over  to  our  camp  we  would 
put  them  all  to  death.  They  asked  for  some  corn, 
which  Captain  Clarke  refused  them :  they  then  re- 
quested permission  to  come  and  visit  us,  but  he  or- 
dered them  back.  He  then  returned,  and  our  arms 
were  all  made  ready  in  case  of  an  attack.  But  when 
these  Indians  reached  their  comrades,  and  informed 
their  chiefs  of  our  determination,  they  all  set  off  for 
their  own  camp :  some  of  them,  however,  halted  on  a 
rising  ground,  and  abused  us  with  their  tongues  very 
copiously,  threatening  to  kill  us  if  we  came  across.  We 
took  no  notice  of  this  for  some  time,  as  three  of  our 
hunters  were  absent,  and  we  were  afraid  the  Indians 
might  meet  them;  but  as  soon  as  they  joined  us  we, 
embarked,  and,  to  see  what  the  Indians  would  attempt, 
steered  near  their  side  of  the  river.  At  this  the  party 
on  the  hill  seemed  not  a  little  agitated:  some  of  them 
set  off  for  their  camp,  others  walked  about,  and  one 
man  came  towards  the  boats  and  invited  us  to  land. 
As  he  approached,  we  recognised  him  to  be  the  same 
who  had  accompanied  us  for  two  days  in  1804,  and  was 
considered  a  friend  of  the  whites.  Unwilling,  however, 
to  have  any  intercourse  with  these  people,  we  declined 
his  invitation,  upon  which  he  returned  to  the  hill,  and 
struck  the  earth  three  times  with  his  gun,  a  great  oath 
among  the  Indians,  who  consider  swearing  by  the 
earth  as  one  of  the  most  solemn  forms  of  imprecation. 
At  the  distance  of  six  miles  we  stopped  on  a  bleak  sand- 
bar, where  we  thought  ourselves  secure  from  any -at- 
tack during  the  night,  and  also  safe  from  the  mosche- 


SEVERITY  OF  STORM  isi 

toes.  We  had  made  but  twenty-two  miles,  but  in  the 
course  of  the  day  had  killed  a  mule-deer,  an  animal  we 
were  very  anxious  to  obtain.  About  eleven  in  the  even- 
ing the  wind  shifted  to  the  northwest,  and  it  began  to 
rain,  accompanied  by  thunder  and  lightning,  after 
which  the  wind  changed  to  the  southwest,  and  blew 
with  such  violence  that  we  were  obliged  to  hold  fast 
the  canoes,  for  fear  of  their  being  driven  from  the  sand- 
bar: still,  the  cables  of  two  of  them  broke,  and  two 
others  were  blown  quite  across  the  river;  nor  was  it 
till  two  o'clock  that  the  whole  party  were  reassembled, 
waiting  in  the  rain  for  daylight."" 


CHAPTER  XI. 

The  Party  return  in  Safety  to  St.  Louis. 

"  A  U GUST  31.  We  examined  our  arms,  and  pro- 
/\  ceeded  with  the  wind  in  our  favour.  For 
L  Y  some  time  we  saw  different  Indians  on  the 
hills,  but  at  length  lost  sight  of  them.  In  passing  the 
Dome,  and  the  first  village  of  barking  squirrels,  we 
stopped  and  killed  two  fox  squirrels,  an  animal  we  had 
not  seen  on  the  river  higher  than  this  place ;  and  at 
night  we  encamped  on  the  northeast  side,  after  making 
a  distance  of  seventy  miles.  We  had  seen  no  game  for 
some  time  past  on  the  river,  but  in  the  evening  the 
moschetoes  were  not  slow  to  discover  us. 

"  September  1.  We  set  out  early,  but  were  shortly 
compelled  to  land,  and  wait  for  half  an  hour,  till  a 
thick  fog  dispersed.  At  nine  o'clock  we  passed  the 
mouth  of  the  Quicurre,  which  presented  the  same  ap- 
pearance as  when  we  ascended,  the  water  being  rapid 
and  of  a  milky-white  colour.  Two  miles  below,  several 
Indians  ran  down  to  the  bank  and  beckoned  us  to  land ; 
but  as  they  appeared  to  be  Tetons,  and  of  a  war  party, 
we  paid  no  attention  to  them,  except  to  inquire  to 
what  tribe  they  belonged :  our  Sioux  interpreter,  how- 
ever, did  not  understand  much  of  their  language,  and 
182 


INTERVIEW  WITH  THE  YANKTONS      183 

they  probably  mistook  his  question.  As  one  of  our 
canoes  was  behind,  we  were  afraid  of  its  being  at- 
tacked; we  therefore  landed  on  an  open,  commanding1 
situation,  out  of  view  of  the  Indians,  to  wait  for  it. 
We  had  not  been  in  this  position  fifteen  minutes, 
when  we  heard  several  guns,  which  we  immediately 
concluded  were  fired  at  the  men  in  the  canoe;  and 
being  determined  to  protect  them  against  any  number 
of  Indians,  Captain  Clarke,  with  fifteen  men,  ran  up 
the  river,  while  Captain  Lewis  hobbled  up  the  bank, 
and  formed  the  rest  of  the  party  as  would  best  enable 
them  to  protect  the  boats.  On  turning  a  point  of 
the  river,  however,  Captain  Clarke  was  agreeably  sur- 
prised at  seeing  the  Indians  still  in  the  place  where 
we  had  left  them,  and  our  canoe  at  the  distance  of  a 
mile.  He  now  went  on  to  a  sand-bar,  and,  the  In- 
dians crossing  over  to  him,  he  gave  them  his  hand, 
when  they  informed  him  that  they  had  been  amusing 
themselves  with  shooting  at  an  old  keg  we  had  thrown 
into  the  river  as  it  was  floating  down.  We  now  found 
them  to  be  part  of  a  band  of  eighty  lodges  of  Yank- 
tons  on  Plum  Creek,  and  therefore  invited  them  down 
to  our  camp.  After  smoking  several  pipes,  we  told 
them  that  we  had  mistaken  them  for  Tetons,  and  had 
intended  putting  every  one  of  them  to  death  if  they  had 
fired  at  our  canoe;  but  finding  them  Yanktons,  who 
were  good  men,  we  were  glad  to  take  them  by  the  hand 
as  faithful  children,  who  had  opened  their  ears  to  our, 
counsels.  They  saluted  the  Mandan  with  great  cordia- 
lity, and  one  of  them  said  that  their  ears  had  indeed 
been  open,  and  that  they  had  followed  our  advice  since 
we  gave  a  medal  to  their  great  chief,  and  should  con- 
tinue to  do  so.  We  now  tied  a  piece  of  riband  to 

M.  of  H.— XXIX—24 


184     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

the  hair  of  each  Indian,  and  gave  them  some  corn. 
We  also  made  a  present  of  a  pair  of  leggins  to  the 
principal  chief,  when  we  took  our  leave  of  them,  hav- 
ing been  previously  overtaken  by  our  canoe.  At 
two  o'clock  we  landed  to  hunt  on  Bonhomme  Island, 
but  obtained  a  single  elk  only.  The  bottom  on  the 
north  side,  is  very  rich,  and  was  so  thickly  overgrown 
with  pea-vines  and  grass,  interwoven  with  grape- 
vines, that  some  of  the  party  who  attempted  to  hunt 
there  were  obliged  to  leave  it  and  ascend  the  plain, 
where  they  found  the  grass  nearly  as-  high  as  their 
heads.  These  plains  are  much  more  fertile  below  than 
above  the  Quicurre,  and  the  whole  country  was  now 
very  beautiful.  After  making  fifty-two  miles  against 
a  head  wind,  we  landed  for  the  night  on  a  sand-bar 
opposite  to  Calumet  Bluff,  where  we  had  encamped 
on  the  1st  of  September,  1804,  and  where  our  flag- 
staff was  still  standing.  We  suffered  very  much 
from  the  moschetoes  till  the  wind  became  so  high 
as  to  blow  them  away. 

"  September  2.  At  eight  o'clock  we  passed  the 
mouth  of  the  Jacques  River,  but  soon  after  were  com- 
pelled to  land,  in  consequence  of  the  high  wind  from 
the  northeast,  and  to  remain  till  sunset,  after  which 
we  went  on  to  a  sandbar  twenty-two  miles  from  our 
camp  of  the  previous  evening.  While  we  were  on 
shore  we  killed  three  buffaloes  and  four  prairie-fowl 
which  were  the  first  of  the  latter  we  had  seen  in  de- 
scending. Two  turkeys  were  also  killed,  and  were 
very  much  admired  by  our  Indians,  who  had  never 
seen  that  bird  before."  *  *  * 

"  September  3.  Towards  daylight  we  started  again, 
and  at  eleven  o'clock  we  passed  the  Redstone.  The 


THEY  MEET  A  TRADING  PARTY         185 

river  was  crowded  with  sand-bars,  which  were  now 
very  differently  situated  from  what  they  had  been 
when  we  ascended;  but,  notwithstanding  these  and 
the  head  wind,  we  had  made  sixty  miles  towards 
night,  when,  seeing  two  boats  and  several  men  01? 
the  shore  we  landed,  and  found  a  Mr.  James  Airs,  a. 
partner  of  a  house  at  Prairie  de  Chien,  who  had 
come  from  Macknaw  by  the  way  of  St.  Louis,  witk 
a  license  to  trade  among  the  Sioux  for  one  year^ 
He  had  started,  two  canoes  loaded  with  merchandise, 
but  lost  many  of  his  most  valuable  articles  in  a  squaU 
some  time  before.  After  so  long  an  absence,  the 
sight  of  any  one  who  could  give  us  information  oi 
our  country  was  peculiarly  delightful,  and  much  of 
the  night  was  spent  in  making  inquiries  as  to  wha/- 
had  occurred  since  we  had  left.  We  found  Mr.  Ainy 
a  very  friendly  and  liberal  gentleman,  and  when  we 
proposed  to  him  to  purchase  a  small  quantity  of  to- 
bacco, to  be  paid  for  at  St.  Louis,  he  very  readily 
furnished  every  man  of  the  party  with  as  much  as, 
he  could  use  during  the  rest  of  the  voyage,  and  in-, 
sisted  also  on  our  receiving  a  barrel  of  flour.  Thic 
last  was  very  acceptable,  though  w^e  had  still  a  littk 
flour,  which  we  had  deposited  at  the  mouth  of  Maria's 
River.  We  could  give  in  return  only  about  six  bushels 
of  corn,  which  was  all  that  we  could  spare.  The  next 
morning, 

"  September  4,  we  left  Mr.  Airs  at  about  eight 
o'clock,  and  after  passing  the  Big  Sioux  River  stop- 
ped at  noon  near  Floyd's  Bluff.  On  ascending  the 
hill  we  found  that  the  grave  of  Floyd  had  been  opened, 
and  was  now  half  uncovered.  We  filled  it  up,  and 
then  continued  down  to  our  old  camp  near  the  Maha 


186     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S   EXPEDITION 

village,  where  all  our  baggage,  which  had  been  wet 
by  the  rain  in  the  night,  was  exposed  to  dry.  There 
was  no  game  on  the  river  except  wild  geese  and  peli- 
cans. Near  Floyd's  grave  were  some  flourishing 
black-walnut  trees,  the  first  we  had  seen  on  our  re- 
turn. At  night  we  heard  the  report  of  several  guns 
in  a  direction  towards  the  Maha  village,  and  supposed 
it  to  be  a  signal  for  the  arrival  of  some  trader.  But 
not  meeting  any  one  when  we  set  out  the  next 
morning, 

"  September  5,  we  concluded  that  the  firing  was 
merely  to  announce  the  return  of  the  Mahas  to  their 
village,  this  being  the  season  at  which  they  come 
home  from  buffalo  hunting,  to  take  care  of  their 
corn,  beans,  and  pumpkins.  The  river  was  now  more 
crooked,  the  current  more  rapid,  and  crowded  with 
snags  and  sawyers,  while  the  bottoms  on  both  sides 
were  well  supplied  with  timber.  At  three  o'clock  we 
passed  Bluestone  Bluff,  where  the  river  leaves  the 
highlands  and  meanders  through  a  low,  rich  bottom, 
and  encamped  for  the  night  after  making  seventy- 
three  miles. 

"  September  6.  The  wind  continued  ahead,  but  the 
moschetoes  were  so  tormenting  that  to  remain  was 
more  unpleasant  than  to  proceed,  however  slowly, 
and  we  therefore  started.  Near  the  Little  Sioux  River 
we  met  a  trading-boat  belonging  to  Mr.  Augustus 
Chateau,  of  St.  Louis,  with  several  men  on  their  way 
to  trade  with  the  Yanktons  at  the  Jacques  River.  We 
obtained  from  them  a  gallon  of  whiskey,  and  gave 
each  of  the  party  a  dram,  which  was  the  first  spirit- 
uous liquor  any  of  them  had  tasted  since  the  4th  of 
July,  1805." 


EVAPORATION  FROM  THE  MISSOURI     187 

During  this  and  the  following  day  they  made  a 
distance  of  seventy-four  miles,  encamping,  as  usual, 
on  sand-bars  for  the  night,  to  avoid  the  moschetoes, 
though  even  here  they  were  greatly  tormented  by 
them. 

"  September  8.  We  set  out  early,"  continues  the 
Journal,  "  and  stopped  for  a  short  time  'at  Council 
Bluffs  to  examine  the  situation  of  the  place,  when 
we  were  confirmed  in  our  belief  that  it  would  be  a 
very  eligible  spot  for  a  trading  establishment.  Being 
anxious  to  reach  the  Platte,  we  plied  our  oars  so 
well  that  by  night  we  had  made  seventy-eight  miles, 
and  landed  at  our  old  White  Catfish  encampment, 
twelve  miles  above  that  river.  We  could  not  but 
here  remark  the  wonderful  evaporation  from  the  Mis- 
souri, which  does  not  appear  to  contain  more  water, 
nor  is  its  channel  wider  than  at  one  thousand  miles 
nearer  its  source,  though  within  the  intervening  dis- 
tance it  receives  twenty  rivers  some  of  them  of  con- 
siderable width,  and  a  great  number  of  creeks.  This 
evaporation  seemed,  in  fact,  to  be  greater  now  than 
when  we  ascended  the  river ;  for  we  were  obliged 
to  replenish  the  inkstand  every  day  with  fresh  ink, 
nine  tenths  of  which  must  have  escaped  by  evapora- 
tion. 

"  September  9.  By  eight  o'clock  we  passed  the 
mouth  of  the  Platte,  which  river  was  lower  than 
when  we  saw  it  before,  and  its  waters  were  almost 
clear,  though  its  channel  was  turbulent,  as  usual.  The 
sand-bars,  however,  which  then  obstructed  the  Mis- 
souri were  now  washed  away,  and  nothing  of  them 
was  to  be  seen  except  a  few  remains.  Below  the  Platte 
the  current  of  the  Missouri  became  evidently  more 


188     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S   EXPEDITION 

rapid,  and  the  obstructions  from  fallen  timber  in- 
creased. The  river  bottoms  are  here  extensive,  rich, 
and  covered  with  tall,  (large  timber,  which  is  still 
more  abundant  in  the  hollows  of  the  ravines,  where 
may  be  seen  oak,  ash,  and  elm,  interspersed  with  some 
walnut  and  hickory.  The  moschetoes,  though  still 
numerous,  seemed  to  have  lost  some  of  their  vigour. 
As  we  advanced  the  difference  of  climate  was  very 
perceptible,  the  air  being  more  sultry  than  we  had  ex- 
perienced it  for  a  long  time  before,  and  the  nights 
were  so  warm  that  a  thin  blanket  was  now  sufficient, 
although  a  few  days  before  two  had  been  no  more 
than  comfortable.  Late  in  the  afternoon  we  encamped 
opposite  to  the  Baldpated  Prairie,  after  having  come 
a  distance  of  seventy-three  miles. 

"  September  10.  We  again  set  out  early,  and  the 
wind  being  moderate,  though  still  ahead,  we  pro- 
ceeded sixty-five  miles,  to  a  sand  bar  a  short  distance 
above  the  Grand  Nemaha.  In  the  course  of  the  day 
we  met  a  trader  with  three  men,  on  his  way  to  the  Paw- 
nee Loups,  or  Wolf  Pawnees,  on  the  Platte.  Soon 
after  another  boat  passed  us  with  seven  men  from  St. 
Louis,  bound  to  the  Mahas.  With  both  of  these  parties 
we  had  some  conversation,  but  our  anxiety  to  go  on 
would  not  suffer  us  to  remain  long  with  them.  The 
Indians,  particularly  the  squaws  and  children,  had 
become  weary  with  the  length  of  the  route,  and  we 
were  impatient  to  reach  our  country  and  our  friends. 
We  saw  on  the  shore  deer,  raccoons  and  turkeys. 

"  September  11.  A  high  wind  from  the  northwest 
detained  us  till  after  sunrise,  when  we  started,  but 
proceeded  slowly,  since,  from  the  river  being  now 
rapid  and  narrow,  as  well  as  more  crowded  with  sand- 


THEY  MEET  A  TRADING  PARTY          189 

bars  and  timber  than  above,  much  caution  was  neces- 
sary in  avoiding  these  obstacles,  especially  as  the  water 
was  low.  The  Nemaha  seemed  less  wide  than  when 
we  saw  it  before,  and  Wolf  River  had  scarcely  any 
water.  In  the  afternoon  we  halted  above  the  Nadowa, 
to  hunt,  and  killed  two  deer,  after  which  we  went  on 
to  a  small  island  forty  miles  from  our  last  encampment. 
Here  we  were  no  longer  annoyed  by  the  moschetoes, 
which  did  not  seem  to  frequent  this  part  of  the  river; 
and,  after  having  been  persecuted  by  these  insects 
the  whole  distance  from  the  Falls,  it  was  a  most  agree- 
able release.  Their  noise  was  very  agreeably  ex- 
changed for  that  of  the  common  wolves,  which  were 
howling  in  different  directions,  and  of  the  prairie 
wolves,  whose  barking  resembles  precisely  that  of 

j  CAAmPTGN  ACCcbsUMI 

a  curdog. 

"  Septeiff15efOFf^l8R^ter  a  thick  fog  and  a  heavy 
dew,  we  set  out  at  sunrise,  and  at  the  distance  of  seven 
miles  passed  two  pirogues,  one  of  them  bound  to  the 
Platte  for  the  purpose  of  trading  with  the  Pawnees, 
the  other  on  a  trapping  expedition  to  the  neighbour- 
hood of  the  Mahas.  Soon  after  we  met  the  trading 
party  under  Mr.  M'Clellan;  and  with  them  was  Mr. 
Gravelines,  the  interpreter  whom  we  had  sent  with  a 
Ricara  chief  to  the  United  States.  The  chief  had  un- 
fortunately died  at  Washington,  and  Gravelines  was 
now  on  his  way  to  the  Ricaras  with  a  speech  from 
the  president,  and  the  presents  which  had  been  made 
to  the  deceased.  He  had  also  directions  to  instruct 
the  Ricaras  in  agriculture.  He  was  accompanied  on 
his  mission  by  old  Mr.  Durion,  our  former  interpreter, 
for  the  purpose  of  employing  his  influence  to  secure 
a  safe  passage  for  the  Ricara  presents  through  the 


190     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

country  of  the  Sioux,  and  also  to  engage  some  of  the 
Sioux  chiefs,  not  exceeding  six,  to  visit  Washington. 
Both  of  them  were  instructed  to  inquire  particularly 
after  the  fate  of  our  party,  no  intelligence  having  been 
received  from  us  for  a  long  time.  We  authorized  Mr. 
Durion  to  invite  ten  or  twelve  of  the  Sioux  chiefs  to 
accompany  him,  particularly  the  Yanktons,  whom  we 
had  found  well  disposed  towards  our  country.  The 
afternoon  being  wet,  we  determined  to  remain  with 
Mr.  M'Clellan  during  the  night;  and  sending  five 
hunters  ahead,  spent  the  evening  in  inquiries  respect- 
ing what  had  transpired  in  the  United  States  since  we 
left. 

"  September  13.  By  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning 
we  overtook  the  hunters,  but  they  had  killed  nothing. 
The  wind  now  being  too  high  to  proceed  safely 
through  the  timber  that  was  stuck  in  every  part  of 
the  channel,  we  landed  and  sent  the  small  canoes 
ahead  to  hunt.  Towards  evening  we  overtook  them, 
and  encamped,  having  been  able  to  advance  only 
eighteen  miles.  The  weather  was  very  warm,  and 
the  rushes  in  the  bottoms  were  so  thick  and  high  that 
we  could  scarcely  hunt;  still,  we  were  so  fortunate 
as  to  obtain  four  deer  and  a  turkey,  which,  with  the 
hooting  owl,  and  the  common  buzzard,  crow,  and 
hawk,  were  the  only  game  we  saw.  Among  the  tim- 
ber was  the  cottonwood,  sycamore,  ash,  mulberry, 
papaw,  walnut,  hickory,  prickly  ash,  and  several  spe- 
cies of  elm,  interspersed  with  great  quantities  of  grape- 
vines, and  three  kinds  of  peas. 

"  September  14.  We  resumed  our  journey,  and 
this  being  the  part  of  the  river  to  which  the  Kanzas 
resort  for  the  purpose  of  robbing  the  boats  of  the 


MEET  WITH  MANY  TRADING  PARTIES   191 

traders,  we  held  ourselves  in  readiness  to  fire  upon 
any  Indians  who  should  offer  us  the  slightest  indig- 
nity, as  we  no  longer  needed  their  friendship,  and 
had  found  that  a  tone  of  firmness  and  decision  was 
the  best  possible  method  of  making  a  proper  impres- 
sion upon  these  freebooters.  We  did  not,  however, 
encounter  any  of  them,  but  just  below  the  old  Kanzas 
village  met  three  trading  boats  from  St.  Louis,  on 
their  way  to  the  Yanktons  and  Mahas.  After  leaving 
them  we  saw  a  number  of  deer,  of  which  we  killed! 
five,  and  landed  on  an  island  fifty-three  miles  from  our 
last  encampment. 

"  September  15.  A  strong  breeze  ahead  prevented 
us  from  proceeding  more  than  forty-nine  miles,  to 
the  neighbourhood  of  Hay  Cabin  Creek.  The  Kan- 
zas was  very  low  at  this  time.  About  a  mile  beyond 
it  we  landed  to  examine  the  situation  of  a  high  hill, 
which  has  many  advantages  for  a  trading  house  or  fort ; 
while  on  the  shore  we  gathered  great  quantities  of 
papaw,  and  shot  an  elk.  The  low  grounds  were  now 
delightful  and  the  whole  country  exhibited  a  rich  ap- 
pearance; but  the  weather  was  oppressively  warm, 
and  descending  as  rapidly  as  we  did  from  a  cool,  open 
country,  situated  in  the  latitude  of  from  46°  to  49°, 
in  which  we  had  been  for  nearly  two  years,  to  the 
wooded  plains  in  38°  and  39°  the  heat  would  have 
been  almost  insufferable  but  for  the  winds  constantly 
blowing  from  the  south  and  southeast. 

"  September  16.  We  set  out  at  an  early  hour,  but 
the  weather  soon  became  so  warm  that  the  men 
rowed  but  little.  In  the  course  of  the  day  we  met  two 
trading  parties  on  their  way  to  the  Pawnees  and 


192     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S   EXPEDITION 

Mahas,  and  after  making  fifty-two  miles,  landed  on  an 
island,  and  remained  there  till  the  next  morning. 

"  September  17.  We  started  early,  and  passed  in 
safety  the  island  of  the  Little  Osage  village.  This 
place  is  considered  by  the  navigators  of  the  Missouri 
as  the  most  dangerous  part  of  it,  the  whole  stream 
being  compressed,  for  two  miles,  within  a  narrow 
channel  crowded  with  timber,  into  which  the  violence 
of  the  current  is  constantly  washing  the  banks.  At 
the  distance  of  thirty  miles  we  met  a  Captain 
M'Clellan,  lately  of  the  United  States  army,  with  whom 
we  encamped.  He  informed  us  that  the  general  opin- 
ion in  the  United  States  was  that  we  were  lost,  the 
latest  accounts  of  us  being  from  the  Mandan  village. 
Captain  M'Clellan  was  on  his  way  to  attempt  to  open 
a  new  trade  with  the  Indians.  His  plan  was  to  estab- 
lish himself  on  the  Platte,  and  after  trading  with  the 
Pawnees  and  Ottoes,  to  prevail  on  some  of  their  chiefs 
to  accompany  him  to  Santa  Fe,  where  he  hoped  to 
obtain  permission  to  exchange  his  merchandise  for 
gold  and  silver,  which  were  there  abundant.  If  this 
should  be  granted,  he  would  transport  his  goods  on 
mules  and  horses  from  the  Platte  to  some  part  of 
Louisiana,  convenient  to  the  Spanish  settlements, 
where  he  would  be  met  by  the  traders  from  New 
Mexico. 

"  September  18.  We  parted  with  Captain  M'Clel- 
lan, and  within  a  few  miles  passed  the  mouth  of  Grand 
River,  below  which  we  overtook  the  hunters  who 
had  been  sent  forward  the  day  before.  They  had  not 
been  able  to  kill  anything  nor  did  we  see  any  game 
except  one  bear  and  three  turkeys,  so  that  our  whole 
stock  of  nrovtsions  was  reduced  to  one  biscuit  for 


THEY  APPROACH  ST.  LOUIS  193 

each  person ;  but  as  there  was  an  abundance  of  papaw, 
the  men  were  perfectly  contented.  The  current  of 
the  river  was  more  gentle  than  when  we  had  ascended 
the  water  being  lower,  though  it  was  still  rapid  in 
places  where  it  was  confined.  We  continued  to  pass 
through  a  very  fine  country  for  fifty-  two  miles,  when 
we  encamped  nearly  opposite  to  Mine  River.  The 
next  morning, 

"  September  19,  we  worked  our  oars  all  day,  with- 
out taking  time  to  hunt,  or  even  landing,  except  once 
to  gather  papaws;  and  at  eight  o'clock  reached  the 
entrance  of  the  Osage  River,  a  distance  of  seventy- 
two  miles.  Several  of  the  party  had  been  for  a  day 
or  two  attacked  with  soreness  of  the  eyes,  the  eye- 
ball being  very  much  swelled,  and  the  lid  appearing 
as  if  burned  by  the  sun,  and  being  extremely  painful, 
particularly  when  exposed  to  the  light.  Three  of 
the  men  were  so  much  affected  by  it  as  to  be  unable 
to  row.  We  therefore  turned  one  of  the  boats  adrift, 
and  distributing  the  men  among  the  others,  we  set 
out  a  little  before  daybreak, 

"  September  20.  The  Osage  was  at  this  time  low, 
and  discharged  but  a  very  little  quantity  of  water. 
Near  the  mouth  of  the  Gasconade,  where  we  arrived 
at  noon,  we  met  five  Frenchmen  on  their  way  to  the 
Great  Osage  village.  As  we  were  rapidly  moving 
along,  we  saw  on  the  banks  some  cows  feeding,  when 
the  whole  party  almost  involuntarily  raised  a  shout  of 
joy  on  perceiving  this  image  of  civilization  and  do- 
mestic life. 

"  Soon  after,  we  reached  the  little  French  village 
of  La  Charette,  which  we  saluted  with  a  discharge 
of  four  guns,  and  three  hearty  cheers.  We  then  landed, 


194     LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S  EXPEDITION 

and  were  received  with  kindness  by  the  inhabitants, 
as  well  as  some  traders  from  Canada,  who  were  going 
to  traffic  with  the  Osages  and  Ottoes.  They  were  all 
equally  surprised  and  pleased  at  our  arrival,  for  they 
had  long  since  abandoned  all  hopes  of  ever  seeing 
us  again. 

"  These  Canadians  have  boats  prepared  for  the 
navigation  of  the  Missouri,  which  seem  better  cal- 
culated for  the  purpose  than  those  of  any  other  form. 
They  are  in  the  shape  of  a  bateaux,  about  thirty  feet 
long  and  eight  wide;  the  bow  and  stern  pointed,  the 
bottom  flat,  and  being  propelled  by  six  oars  only: 
their  chief  advantage  is  their  width  and  flatness, 
which  saves  them  from  the  danger  of  rolling  sands. 

"  Having  come  forty-eight  miles,  and  the  weather 
threatening  to  be  bad,  we  remained  at  La  Charette 
till  the  next  morning, 

"  September  21,  when  we  proceeded,  and  as  sev- 
eral new  settlements  had  been  made  during  our  ab- 
sence, we  were  refreshed  with  the  sight  of  men  and 
cattle  along  the  banks.  We  also  passed  twelve  canoes 
of  the  Kickapoo  Indians  going  on  a  hunting  excur- 
sion. At  length  after  proceeding  forty-eight  miles,  we 
saluted  with  heartfelt  satisfaction  the  village  of  St. 
Charles,  and  on  landing  were  treated  with  the  greatest 
hospitality  and  kindness  by  all  the  inhabitants  of  the 
place.  Their  civility  detained  us  till  ten  o'clock  the 
next  morning, 

"September  22.  when  the  rain  having  ceased,  we 
set  out  for  Coldwater  Creek,  about  three  miles  from 
the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  where  we  found  a  canton- 
ment of  United  States  troops,  with  whom  we  passed 
the  day;  and  then, 


THE  JOURNEY  ENDED  195 

"  September  23,  descended  to  the  Mississippi,  and 
round  to  St.  Louis,  at  which  place  we  arrived  at  twelve 
o'clock;  and  having  fired  a  salute,  went  on  shore, 
where  we  received  a  most  hearty  and  hospitable  wel- 
come from  the  whole  village." 

NOTE. 

This  volume  completes  the  History  of  the  Expedition  of  Captains 
Lewis  and  Clarke  during  the  years  18(H-5-6  undertaken  by  order  of  the 
Government  of  the  United  States  and  which  was  the  first  narrative  which 
diffused  widely  at  that  time  a  knowledge  of  the  so-called  "Oregon"  Ter- 
ritory and  the  intermediate  territory  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  / 

The  preceding  volumes  are  as  follows: 

"Up  the  Missouri  with  Lewis  and  Clarke,  Pioneers."  THE  SUPERIOR 
SERIES. 

"Captains  Lewis  and  Clarke  of  the  United  States  Army,  Daring  and  Success- 
ful Explorers."  THE  SUPERIOR  SERIES. 

"In  The  Rocky  Mountains,  Great  Difficulties  and  Dangers  encountered  by 
Captains  Lewis  and  Clarke."  THE  SUPERIOR  SERIES. 


The  Superior  Series 

The  Best  Books  of  the  Best  Authors 

IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS;  By  Paul  Allen. 

A  complete  story  graphically  told  about  the  discovery  of 
the  headwaters  of  the  Columbia  River. 

CAPTAINS   LEWIS   &   CLARKE   OF  THE  U.   S. 
ARMY;  By  Paul  Allen. 

A  history  of  the  Northwest  Expedition  during  the  years 
1804  to  1806,  by  order  of  the  Government  of  the  United 
States. 

EDMUND  DANTES;  By  Alexander  Dumas. 

The  sequel  to  The  Count  of  Monte  Christo,  one  of  the 
greatest  novels  ever  written* 

DIARY  OF  A  PILGRIMAGE  AND  SIX  ESSAYS; 
By  Jerome  K.  Jerome. 

Interesting  observation's  made  by  a  Pilgrim  in  Germany 
and  at  the  Ober-Ammergau  Passion  Play. 

THE  DEMONIAC;  By  Walter  Besant. 

An  interesting  story  of  college  life  and  the  experiences 
of  a  young  man  possessed  with  a  strange  spirit. 

THE    HOUSE    OF    THE    WOLF;    By    Stanley    J. 
Weyman. 

A  modern  English  version  of  a  curious  French  Memoir 
written  about  the  year  1620  by  Anne  Vicounte  de  Caylus. 

THE  ROMANCE  OF  A  POOR  YOUNG  MAN;  By 
Octave  Feuillet. 

A  comprehensive  entertaining  tale  written  in  an  enchant- 
ing style  that  will  keep  the  reader  interested  from  the  first 
chapter  to  the  last. 

JACK  AND  THREE  JILLS;  By  F.  C.  Philips. 

A  delightful  and  original  novel  that  bears  the  mark  of 
being  written  by  a  man  of  the  world  who  knew  how  to  enjoy 
himself. 


FOR     SALE     EVEBYWHERE 


The  Superior  Series 

The  Best  Books  of  the  Best  Authors 


CAPTAINS  LEWIS  &  CLARKE;  or  Adventures  in 
The  Northwest  Territory.     By  Paul  Allen. 
A  true  story  of  Adventures  on  the  Missouri. 

IN  CAMP  ON  WHITE  BEAR  ISLAND;  or  In  Con- 
flict with  The  Indians.     By  Paul  Allen. 

An  interesting  story  concerning  the  manners  and  customs 
of  the  native  inhabitants  of  the  Northwest. 

A     SPECIAL    CORRESPONDENT;     or    The    Ad- 
ventures of  Claudius  Bombarnac.     By  Jules  Verne. 
Adventures  among  the  various  races  of  Central  Asia. 

MARIE  ANTOINETTE  OF  FRANCE;  By  John  S. 
C.  Abbott. 

Daughter  of  Francis  and  Marie  Theresa ;  married  Louis 
XVI.  The  author  has  pictured  the  great  gifts  and  powers  of 
Marie  Antoinette  as  well  as  her  faults  and  weaknesses. 

MARY,  QUEEN  OF  SCOTS;  By  Jacob  Abbott. 

An  intensely  interesting  story  of  a  lovely  woman  and  an 
unfortunate  queen.  She  was  proclaimed  Queen  of  Scotland 
ten  months  and  seven  days  after  her  birth. 

THE  CHESS  PLAYER;  and  Eleven  other  Masterful 
Stories   and   Essays.     By   Edgar  Allan   Poe. 

QUEEN  ELIZABETH :  By  Jacob  Abbott. 

A  complete  history  of  a  queen  who  dexterously  piloted 
her  subjects  past  threatening  disaster  into  a  period  of  pros- 
perity and  splendor. 

MASTER    ROCKEFELLER'S    VOYAGE;    By    W. 
Clark  Russell. 

An  extremely  interesting  story  of  Torn  Rockafeller's  ex- 
periences aboard  the  good  ship  Lady  Violet. 

OUTWARD  BOUND;  By  Oliver  Optic. 

The  experiences  of  the  officers  and  crew  of  The  Young 
America,  also  a  full  description  of  the  routine  and  discipline 
of  the  ship. 

PILGRIMS   OF  THE  RHINE;   By  Edward  Bulwer 
Lytton. 

A  collection  of  thoughts  a:id  sentiments  that  constitute 
•Jnt  romance  of  Youth,  also  faithful  descriptions  of  the  Rhine. 


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